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THE 



, ART OF COOKERY 



A MANUAL FOR HOMES AND SCHOOLS 



BY 

EMMA P. EWING 

Superintendent of the Chautauqua School of Cookery , formerly Professor of 

Domestic Economy in the Iowa State Agricultural College, and 

of Household Science in Purdue University, Indiana. 



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•/>'/^:^'\ \i.> '.' ^- 



THE BOWEN-MERRILL COMPANY 

Publishers 
INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA 



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Copyright, 1896 
By Flood & Vincent 

Copyright, 1899 
By The Bowen-Merrill Co. 



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• • • • • • 

• • • • ••, 



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PREFACE. 

A GREAT need exists in our homes and schools for 
more intelligent instruction in regard to the preparation 
of food. This book was written to supply that need. 
In it the principles underlying the art of cookery are 
clearly explained. And with its aid any person of or- 
dinary intelligence ought to be able to select, prepare, 
and serve, in a scientific and skilful manner, such articles 
of food as are in general use. 



in 



CONTENTS. 
PART I.— MARKETING. 

CHAPTER. PAGE. 

Introduction 7 

I. How TO Select Meat 10 

II. How to Select Vegetables ... 15 

PART II.— FOOD MATERIALS. 

Introduction 17 

III. Care of Food Materials .... 18 

IV. Preparation of Food Materials . 20 

PART III.— METHODS OF COOKING. 

Introduction 33 

V. Broiling 34 

VI. Baking 46 

VII. Boiling 65 

VIII. Steaming 81 

IX. Stewing 84 

X. Soup-making 100 

XI. Meat Sauces 126 

XII. Frying 136 

XIII. SiCK-RooM Cookery 156 

XIV. Canning, Preserving, and Pick- 

ling 163 

PART IV.— MIXING. 

Introduction 179 

XV. Bread-making 182 

V 



VI 



Contents, 



CHAPTER. PAGE. 

XVI. Pastry and Pie 213 

XVII. Puddings 227 

XVIII. Cake-making 247 

XIX. Delicate Desserts 254 

XX. Sherbets, Water Ices, and Ice 

Creams 260 

PART v.— SEASONING. 

Introduction 263 

XXI. Salad-making 268 

XXII. Entrees and Side Dishes .... 283 

XXIII. Boned Meats 307 

XXIV. Eggs and Omelets 311 

PART VI.— SERVING AND GARNISHING. 

Introduction 315 

XXV. Carving 316 

XXVI. Bills of Fare 319 



THE ART OF COOKERY. 
PART I-MARKETING. 



INTRODUCTION. 

For the benefit of housekeepers and students of 
cookery a few general rules are here given in regard to 
marketing and the selection of food materials. 

The methods of cutting up calves, sheep, and hogs 
are so similar, in a general way, to that of cutting up 
beef cattie— the main difference being in the fewer num- 
ber of cuts on account of the smaller size of the animals 
—that the rules which are applicable in the selection of 
the best cuts of beef are applicable also in the selection 
of the best cuts in any of these smaller animals. 

The method of cutting up a beef, as illustrated in the 
plate, is that which is followed by the best butchers in 
New York and Chicago, and is the one in most general 
use in this country. The divisions marked with the 
letter S are generally used as steak. The figures 2 and 
3 along the top of the back denote the number of ribs 
in each cut or roast, as there designated. 

The name by which each piece is called, as marked 
on the illustration, is given in the following list : 

1, S, Thick sirloin. 

2, Second cut, or middle ribs. 

3, S, Small end sirloin. 

7 



Mlrodudion. 



4, First cut rib. 

5, Third cut, or thick rib. 

6, First cut chuck rib. 

7, S, Second cut chuck rib. 
^j S^ Cross rib. 

9, S, Third cut chuck. 

10, S, Rump. 

1 1 , Face of rump. 

12, First cut round. 

13, Second cut round. 

14, Top of sirloin. 

15, S, Neck piece. 

16, Second neck piece. 

17, Plate piece. 

18, Navel piece. 

19, Brisket. 

20, Shoulder clod. 

21, Flank piece. 

22, Third cut of neck. 

23, Leg. 

24, Shin. 



CHAPTER I. 

HOW TO SELECT MEAT. 

To Select Beef. — Cattle from four to eight years of 
age furnish the best beef. The flesh of young animals is 
less rich in flavor and nutrition, and loses more weight 
in cooking than that of mature age. Good beef has a 
dark red color when first cut, which changes to a lighter 
shade after a few minutes' exposure to the air. It looks 
juicy, is fine grained, smooth, firm, and, at the same 
time, elastic to the touch. It has a fair proportion of 
fat about the kidneys and overlying the loin and ribs, 
while the lean or muscular portions are ingrained and 
marbled with dots and streaks of fat. A very dark 
color indicates an old animal, a pale, moist muscle a 
very young one, and a bluish or dark red color poor 
beef. 

Those portions of a beef containing the greatest 
amount of tenderloin are generally considered the 
choicest, consequently they command the highest price. 
But, as a matter of fact, the sirloin, rump, ribs, and 
some other cuts, although less tender, contain more 
juice, flavor, and nutrition than the tenderloin. 

The fore quarter of a beef contains a larger propor- 
tion of bone to meat, and is less tender, than the hind 
quarter, but is quite equal to it in juiciness and flavor. 
Backward from the head, in the fore quarters, and up- 



How to Select Meat. " 



ward from the legs in both fore and hind quarters, the 
quality and price of the meat increases. 

The best steak is the porterhouse steak, cut from the 
loin of an animal where the tenderloin is largest. It con- 
tains both tenderloin and sirloin, separated by a small 
bone, and is frequently called a pin-bone steak. Further 
back the pin-bone centers in a cross-bone at the top, 
and a cut from there is often called a T-bone steak. 
Steaks cut forward from the porterhouse steaks have no 
separating bone in them, but are nevertheless called 
porterhouse steaks by many butchers, and are not in- 
frequently given that name even when cut so far forward 
that there is not a semblance of tenderloin about them. 
When the pin-bone or T-bone is removed from a porter- 
house steak, and it is divided into two parts, these parts 
are known respectively as tenderloin steak and sirloin 
steak. As has already been said, the tenderloin is the 
tenderest portion of a beef; but many people prefer a 
sirloin to a tenderloin steak on account of its being more 
juicy and richer flavored. After the loin, the rump steaks 
are the best. The round is very inferior for broiling, as 
the juices are so thin and exposed that it is difficult to 
keep them from flowing out while the meat is cooking, 
and leaving it dry and tasteless. Round steak is better 
cooked as Salisbury or Hamburger steak, or sauted and 

braised. 

The first, second, and third cut ribs, as shown on the 
chart, make prime roasts. The rump also makes an 
excellent roast. The chuck ribs do not make nearly so 
good a roast as either of the other cuts mentioned. 
But the portions that are best for steaks furnish the 



12 The Art of Cookery. 



finest roasts. And while sirloin is considered best for a 
large roast, nothing can be choicer for a small one than 
porterhouse. 

To Select Veal. — Milk-fed calves that are from six to 
eight weeks of age make the best veal. The fat about 
the kidneys of such calves is white and the flesh is 
white and firm. The hind quarter is the choicest and 
generally sells for a few cents a pound more than the 
fore quarter. The loin makes the fattest and finest 
chops. Cudets are usually taken from the leg. The 
fillet is also taken from the leg. Roasts are selected 
from the loin, the breast, the shoulder, and the leg. 

The pancreatic glands, or sweetbreads, are two small . 
lumps of flesh that are found in the lower throat and 
near the heart of the calf They seldom weigh more 
than half a pound, and their function is to assimilate the 
oily portions of the food of the young animal. In 
milk-fed calves the sweetbreads are composed largely of 
assimilated cream and are very tender and delicate in 
flavor, but as the calves increase in age they become 
tough and worthless. The sweetbread nearest the 
heart is plump and oval in form, while that from the 
throat is longer and less compact. There is little differ- 
ence, however, in their flavor or delicacy. 

To Select Mutton. — The best mutton is that in which 
the fat is abundant, white, clear, and solid, the leg bones 
white, the scored skin on the fore quarters red, and the 
lean meat juicy and firm and of a dark red color. 

To Select Lamb. — In selecting lamb choose that which 
has hard, white fat on the back and about the kidneys, 
and has pinkish-hued bones. 



How to Select Meat. 13 

To Select Pork. — The lean of the best pork is of a 
delicate red color, juicy, firm, and fine grained. The 
fat is white and the skin thin and pearly. When the 
skin is thick the pig is old. 

To Select Ham. — Medium-sized hams weighing from 
eight to twelve pounds are usually the best. Hams 
should be plump and round, with short tapering shanks 
and small bones. The fat should be white and firm, 
and the skin thin and not wrinkled. 

To Select Poultry. — A moderate sized turkey is more 
apt to be young than a larger one, and a hen is prefera- 
ble to a gobbler, being generally plumper, fatter, and 
more delicate in flavor. The legs of a turkey should be 
black and smooth and the breast-bone soft and pliable. 
If the legs are rough, the breast-bone hard, and the 
skin tough, the turkey is old. When turkeys or other 
fowls are fresh the eyes are bright and full, and the feet 
and legs limber. The breast of a goose should be 
plump and white, and the feet yellow and flexible. If 
the windpipe is soft the goose is young. Capons are 
the greatest delicacies known in the poultry line, as they 
retain the tenderness of young chickens while having 
the size and flavor of mature fowls. To judge the age 
of a chicken press with the finger on the breast-bone at 
the point nearest the tail, and if the bone is soft and 
pliable the chicken is young. Poultry that is dark and 
slimy is stale and unfit for food. 

To Select Eggs. — Fresh eggs look clear and semi- 
transparent in a strong light, and if lifted in the hand 
feel heavier than eggs that are stale. If eggs are 
dropped into a bucket or pan of water those that are 



14 The Art of Cookery. 

perfectly fresh will sink to the bottom and rest on their 
sides, those that are stale will stand obliquely in the 
water, while those that are positively bad will take an 
upright position and float. Cold-storage eggs should 
be avoided, as they usually have a sour, musty flavor 
that renders them very undesirable for most culinary 
purposes. 

To Select Fish. — In selecting fish choose only those 
with firm flesh, stifl" fins, lively red gills, and full, clear 
eyes. 



CHAPTER II. 

HOW TO SELECT VEGETABLES. 

Considerable care should be observed in the selec- 
tion of vegetables, as most green vegetables are very 
perishable, and lose their flavor and become unhealthful 
when they wilt or grow stale. A few general rules are 
given for the selection of such as are in most common 
use. 

To Select Potatoes. — Those that have the most per- 
fect skin and are heaviest for their size are always the 
best. 

To Select Cabbage. — The firmest and heaviest heads 
of cabbage are best. 

To Select Cauliflower. — Select large, solid heads 
that are creamy white. Wilted leaves and dark flowers 
are indications of staleness. 

To Select Squash. — Hubbard and other varieties of 
fall and winter squash, and also pumpkins, should be se- 
lected by weight. The heavier a squash or pumpkin 
is in proportion to size the tenderer and richer flavored 
it is apt to be. 

To Select Turnips. — Medium-sized turnips are gen- 
erally sweetest, provided they are firm, heavy, and free 
from green spots. 

To Select Carrots, Parsnips, and Salsify. — These 
all belong in the same family of vegetables, and are best 
when unwilted, solid, heavy, and free from side roots. 

J5 



i6 The Art of Cookery, 

To Select Cucumbers. — Select those of medium size 
that are dark green in color and very plump and firm. 

To Select Spinach. — Spinach should be bright green 
in color, unwilted, and crisp. 

To Select Celery. — Dwarf is much finer flavored than 
mammoth. But whatever variety is selected it should 
be white, firm, and crisp. 

To Select Lettuce. — Head lettuce is much superior 
to that known as ' ' cut lettuce, ' ' and the more firm and 
solid the heads are the more tender and delicate flavored 
the lettuce will be. 

To Select Egg Plant. — The large, oval-shaped pur- 
ple is the best. If fresh the ^%^ will be firm and the 
skin brilliant. 

To Select Tomatoes. — Smooth, firm, heavy tomatoes 
are the least watery and the finest flavored. 

To Select Onions. — Thin-skinned, solid onions are 
always the best. The mildest of any of the different 
varieties is the large Spanish onion. 

To Select Peas and Beans. — Green peas and string 
beans should be young and freshly picked. 

To Select Green Corn. — ^The cobs should be well 
filled and the grains plump and milky. 

To Select Berries and Fruits. — A dry surface is a 
pretty sure indication of freshness in strawberries, rasp- 
berries, and blackberries ; and plumpness, brightness of 
skin, and freedom from spots of decay are the most 
reliable indications of freshness in such fruits as apples, 
peaches, plums, cherries, grapes, etc. 



PART II.-FOOD MATERIALS. 



INTRODUCTION. 

It is quite as important to know how to take care of 
food materials as it is to select them, and in a majority 
of homes the loss incurred through ignorance or care- 
lessness in this respect is very great. Consequently 
every housekeeper should be acquainted with the best 
methods of taking care of all kinds of food materials 
before and after they have been cooked, so as to avoid 
waste in this direction. Ignorance in selecting, caring 
for, and preparing their food materials has impoverished, 
and is impoverishing, many families. 



CHAPTER III. 

CARE OF FOOD MATERIALS. 

All kinds of meat and poultry should be kept in a 
cool, dry atmosphere and should be suspended from 
hooks in such a manner as not to rest against anything. 
The choicest portion of the fowl or joint of meat should, 
when suspended, hang lowest, therefore turkeys, chick- 
ens, etc., should be hung by the feet, and a leg of lamb, 
mutton, or other animal by the shank-bone. 

It is unsafe to keep veal or fresh pork any length of 
time, and both meats are better to be cooked while 
Iresh. 

A turkey can safely hang three or four days in a cool, 
dry atmosphere, but chickens and other fowls do not 
improve after hanging twenty-four hours. Of course, 
in a well-ventilated ice-chamber the time they can be 
allowed to hang, without detriment, may be lengthened 
considerably. The best and most modern authorities 
approve of drawing all poultry and game before it is 
hung. It should not, however, be washed until shortly 
before it is to be cooked. 

Fresh fish should not be allowed to soak any length 
of time in cold water. They should be kept cold and 
dry, and are better to be cooked as soon as possible 
after being caught. 

Milk and cream should be kept apart from all foods 

i8 



Care of Food Materials. 19 

that emit odors, and should be closely covered. Butter 
also should be kept where it cannot absorb odors, and, 
if kept in large quantities, should be covered with 
brine, or with several inches of dry salt. A great deal 
of milk, cream, and butter is ruined by being put in a 
refrigerator or closet, with a variety of other articles 
whose odors they quickly absorb. 

All cooked foods should be stored in glass, china, or 
earthen-ware vessels, and should be carefully covered. 

Eggs should be kept in a cool, dry atmosphere. If 
eggs are packed in dry salt, pointed end down, they 
may be kept in good condition for several weeks. 

Fruits and vegetables, as a general rule, keep best in 
a cool, dry atmosphere. Lettuce, cress, celery, and 
parsley are best preserved by being wrapped in a towel 
or napkin wrung out of cold water, then in paper, and 
kept in a cool place. 

Berries and all soft, small fruits should be picked over 
carefully and scattered on plates, or sheets of white 
paper. They should not be piled high in deep dishes 
until shortly before they are to be served. 

Imperfectly ripened, or partly green, tomatoes may 
be ripened very perfectly by being wiped dry, wrapped 
in paper or cloth, placed in a basket lined with paper or 
cloth to exclude the light, and set in a warm place for 
twenty-four hours. 



CHAPTER IV. 

PREPARATION OF FOOD MATERIALS. 

The proper preparation of food materials — ^both those 
which are to be cooked and those which are to be served 
uncooked — is so important a matter that every house- 
keeper, cook, and student of cookery should have a 
practical knowledge of how to prepare, as well as how 
to select, all the various food materials and articles of 
food that are likely to be included in the ordinary bill of 
fare. 

To Pick a Fowl. — Fowls that are picked dry are 
considered superior to those whose feathers are removed 
by scalding, but as the latter method of taking the 
feathers from fowls of nearly all kinds Is the one in gen- 
eral use and is much easier and quicker than dry pick- 
ing, it is the method here given: Hold the fowl by 
the feet or legs, plunge it in very hot water, and draw 
it out again almost instantly. Repeat the process sev- 
eral times, until the feathers are thoroughly soaked and 
can be pulled out easily. Then take the fowl in the left 
hand, and with the right hand pluck out the feathers, 
stripping them from the legs down toward the head. 
After all the feathers have been removed, rub out the 
pin feathers with a coarse cloth, and singe off the hairs 
over a blaze of alcohol or gas. 

To Draw a Fowl. — Cut off the head of the fowl, if 

ao 



Preparation of Food Materials. 21 

it has not already been removed. Slit the skin the full 
length of the neck at the back, and carefully loosen it 
from the neck and craw. Cut off the neck about an 
inch from the body, and remove the craw and wind- 
pipe, being careful not to tear the skin of the fowl. 
Insert a sharp-pointed knife in front of, and close to, the 
tail and cut through the skin around the vent and out- 
side the entrail. Lift up the skin below the breast-bone 
of the fowl, leaving a strip an inch in width above the 
vent. Cut crosswise two inches and make an opening 
large enough to insert two fingers, with which carefully 
draw out the entire contents of the body of the fowl. 
Separate the heart, liver, and gizzard from the entrails. 
Remove the gall-sack from the liver very carefully, and 
open and empty the gizzard. 

To Draw a Bird. — This is the best and easiest way 
of drawing a bird or young chicken that is to be 
broiled : Insert a small sharp-pointed knife between the 
shoulder and the backbone and cut down the back the 
entire length of the fowl or bird — being careful not to 
cut into the entrails. Lay the fowl or bird open and re- 
move the contents of the body. 

To Wash a Fowl. — Dissolve a teaspoonful of soda 
in two quarts of water, and with a brush or cloth wash 
the skin of the fowl very thoroughly. Rinse the inside 
with the soda water. Wash the giblets also. Rinse all 
in cold water and wipe dry with a soft towel. 

To Prepare a Fish. — To remove the scales from a 
fish use a stiff-bladed knife, and scrape from the tail 
toward the head. If the fish is to be stuffed and baked 
trim off the fins and open the belly about one third the 



22 The Art of Cookery. 

length of the fish, beginning near the tail. Remove the 
entrails, wash and rinse the fish well, and dry with a 
soft towel. If the fish is to be broiled, open it down 
the belly the entire length of the fish, and unless it is to 
be boned, cut through the bones close to the backbone, 
and deep enough into the fish to allow it to lie flat and 
wide open. 

To Bone a Fish. — Cut off its head and insert the 
point of the boning-knife close to the backbone, under 
the small bones that lie near the inside surface of the 
fish. Slip the knife under these bones and carefully lift 
them from the fish, leaving the meat as little disturbed 
or broken as possible. With a round-pointed, dull- 
bladed knife scrape the flesh away from the backbone 
and the bones that project into the fish therefrom, until 
they can be lifted away clear of flesh; then with the 
blade of the knife smooth and pack together the flesh 
that has been disturbed by removing them. It is not 
advisable to bone small fish, and all fish, as well as 
meats of every kind, are of finer flavor when cooked 
with the bones left in them. 

To Prepare Soup-Bones. — Remove the skin from 
soup-bones, instead of washing them, and make deep in- 
cisions, quite near together, in the lean meat, with a knife. 

To Prepare a Roast of Beef. — Remove the outer skin, 
and with a moist cloth wipe the surface on the inside of 
the cut wherever it has been exposed to dust. All 
joints of meat should be prepared in the same manner 
as beef, and should not be wet or washed when it is 
possible to make them clean by removing the outer 
skin and wiping them. 



Preparation of Food Materials. 23 

To Prepare a Leg of Mutton or Lamb The outer 

skin should always be carefully removed from both 
mutton and lamb before either of them are cooked. 
This is more important in the preparation of mutton 
and lamb than in the preparation of other meats, as 
mutton and lamb are both liable to have an unpleasant, 
woolly flavor when boiled or roasted, unless the outer 
skin has first been removed. 

To Prepare Steak or Chops. — Remove the outer skin 
and all superfluous fat and bones. As the fat of veal 
and lamb is much more delicate than that of beef and 
mutton a larger quantity of it can be left on the former 
than on the latter meats. 

To Prepare Breakfast Bacon — Cut ofl" the dried and 
hardened surface from as much of a piece of breakfast 
bacon as is needed. Lay the bacon, skin side down, on 
a meat board and cut in thin slices down to the rind, 
until the desired number is obtained, then turn the knife 
under the slices and separate them from the rind. 

To Prepare Sliced Ham. — Remove the outer rind, 
also a very thin strip along the inner edge of each slice, 
as those portions have a rank flavor, and are dirty from 
exposure. 

To Prepare a Ham for Boiling or Baking. — Lay the 
ham, skin side down, in a large pan, pour over it a 
quart of hot, and several quarts of cold, water. Add a 
large spoonful of soda to the water, and with a brush 
scrub the ham thoroughly all over, then rinse in clean 
water and soak ten or twelve hours, in sufficient water 
to cover it, with the skin side up. 

To Prepare a Dried Tongue.— A dried, smoked 



24 The Art of Cookery. 

tongue should be prepared in the same manner as a 
ham. 

To Prepare Salted Fish. — Soak the fish, skin side up, 
in cold water ten or twelve hours, or long enough to 
freshen it sufficiently, then hang in a cool place to drain 
and become dry enough to broil readily. 

To Prepare Liver — Skin the liver, cut it in slices 
half an inch thick, soak half an hour in cold salt water, 
and dry with a soft towel. 

To Prepare Sweetbreads. — Put in cold salt water, 
and let them soak an hour. 

To Prepare Potatoes. — If the potatoes are to be 
baked or boiled in their skins, wash clean, using a small 
brush to scrub them with, and remove, with a knife, all 
specks or blemishes. In paring potatoes use a small, 
thin-bladed, sharp-pointed knife, drop the potatoes as 
soon as pared into cold water, and let them remain there 
until needed for cooking. This keeps them from ex- 
posure to the air, and prevents their becoming dis- 
colored. 

To Prepare Turnips, Carrots, Etc. — Cut or slice the 
turnips in pieces before paring, unless they are to be 
cooked whole. Instead of scraping the skin from car- 
rots, parsnips, and salsify it is easier and better to re- 
move a thin paring by cutting from the top, lengthwise 
of the vegetable. Carrots, parsnips, and salsify should, 
like potatoes, be dropped in water as soon as pared. 

To Prepare Squashes. — Squashes of the hard-shelled 
variety should be washed or scrubbed until perfectly 
clean, and then be cut with a saw into pieces the size de- 
sired for baking or steaming. Pumpkins and squashes 



Preparation of Food Materials. 25 

of the soft-shelled varieties should be divided into pieces 
easily handled, before they are pared. 

To Shell Peas. — Pick up the pods with the left hand 
and press the thumb of the right hand upon the front of 
the lower end of the pod — the forefinger of the right 
hand supporting the pod beneath — until it splits open. 
Then slip the thumb into the opening, run it up the en- 
tire length of the pod, and scrape out the peas into a 
dish or pan beneath the hand. Shelled peas should not 
be allowed to drop into the dish containing the pods. 

To String Beans. — To remove the strings from green 
snap beans bend the sharp point at the lower end of the 
pod backward until it breaks, and, with it still attached, 
remove the string along the back of the pod, breaking 
off with it the stem at the opposite end. Instead of 
breaking the pods separately between the fingers, a hand- 
ful of them may be taken at a time and cut with a knife 
upon a board much more expeditiously. 

To Wash Asparagus. — Take each stalk by the cut 
end and swash it back and forward in a large pan of 
water. Tie the washed stalks in bunches of six or eight 
in each bunch, with a white cotton string; place the green 
tips evenly together and cut off the opposite ends of 
the stalks, thus making the bunches of a uniform length. 

To Prepare Cabbage or Cauliflower. — Cut off the 
roots and remove the outside leaves, then divide the 
heads into quarters and lay face downward in cold salted 
water for half an hour before cooking. Salt water is 
said to induce worms and bugs to come from their hid- 
ing places in vegetables and float upon the water. 

To Prepare Spinach, Etc. — Cut off the roots and 



26 The Art of Cookery. 

pick off the dead leaves from spinach, dandeUon, and 
other greens, carefully examine for insects and worms, 
throw into salted water, let remain for half an hour, then 
wash each bunch or head singly in a large pan of clean 
water. Spinach, dandelions, and other greens washed 
by the handful and crowded together in quantities in the 
water when washed are usually gritty and unpalatable 
when cooked. 

To Prepare Celery. — Remove the coarse outside 
stems and pare the root. Divide the stalk into halves — - 
if large into quarters — and trim off all leaves that are 
not ornamental or edible. 

To Prepare Lettuce. — Cut off the root and remove 
the outside leaves from each head. Then remove the 
other leaves one by one and place them in cold water. 
Rinse carefully, lay in a fine wire basket, and swing in 
a draft of air to dry off, or lay on a coarse towel and 
shake gently until dry. Keep in a cool place until 
served. Cress, chicory, sorrel, and all salad leaves 
should be washed and dried in a similar manner. 

To Prepare Cucumbers. — Lay the cucumbers upon 
ice, or in cold water, until half an hour before serving, 
then pare and slice upon broken ice. Just before serv- 
ing drain off the water. Cucumbers should never be 
soaked in salted water, as salt renders them tough and 
indigestible. 

To Prepare Tomatoes. — Lay the tomatoes, stem end 
down, in a basin or bowl, and pour boiling water over 
them until they are completely covered with it. Let 
stand half a minute, then drain it off, and fill the bowl 
with cold water. Renew the water several times, if 



Preparation of Food Materials. 27 

necessary, but do not handle the tomatoes until quite 
cold. As soon as the tomatoes are cold the skins can 
be removed quite easily. If the tomatoes are to be 
used raw lay them upon ice until just before serving, 
when the skins can be removed and the tomatoes sliced. 

To Prepare Bread and Cracker Crumbs. — As differ- 
ent kinds of crumbs are required for different purposes 
the various methods of preparing them are here given : 

Crumbs No. i. — To prepare crumbs for stuffing 
meats, poultry, etc., remove the crust from a loaf of 
stale bread, break the loaf in the middle, and rub the 
jagged or rough edges against each other until the 
bread is rubbed into tolerably fine crumbs. 

Crumbs No. 2. — Crumbs for scolloping meats, oysters, 
fish, etc., should be prepared in the same manner as 
those for stuffing meats and poultry, and should then be 
rubbed through a coarse sieve. 

Crumbs No. j. — To prepare crumbs that are to be 
used in frying, take pieces of dry bread, crusts, or 
crackers, lay upon a molding board, and, with a rolling- 
pin, crush and roll them into very fine crumbs. Sift 
before using. 

Stuffing for Poultry. — Season to taste with salt and 
pepper the desired quantity of Crumbs No. i, and 
moisten lightly with melted butter. If additional season- 
ing be desired, minced parsley, celery, or onion may be 
used. 

Stuffing for Veal. — Season to taste with salt and 
pepper the desired quantity of Crumbs No. i, or with 
salt, pepper, and lemon-thyme, or with salt, pepper, 
and a combination of grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, 



28 The Art of Cookery. 

or ground mace — using half as much nutmeg or mace 
as lemon-peel, and moisten well with melted butter. 
Crumbs No. i seasoned with salt and pepper and a 
little sage or sweet marjoram, and moistened with melted 
butter, may be used for stuffing pork. 

Stuffing for Fish. — Use the same seasoning and pre- 
pare in the same manner as for veal. 

To Remove the Skins from Peaches and Plums. — 
The skins may be removed from peaches, plums, grapes, 
and some other fruits, in the same way they are re- 
moved from tomatoes, but success depends greatly upon 
the exact condition of the fruit. And as the skins of 
all these fruits can frequently be peeled off readily with- 
out the aid of boiling water it is always advisable to 
experiment with a small quantity of the fruit before de- 
ciding upon which is the easiest method of removing 
them. 

To Pare Peaches. — Cut the peaches in halves, re- 
move the halves from the pits by twisting or "wringing" 
them in opposite directions, and pare the halves. 

To Prepare Apples. — Begin to pare an apple at the 
large or stem end, and pare round and round until the 
other end is reached. When the desired number of 
apples have been pared, cut them into halves, then into 
quarters, and then remove the core from each quarter 
by following with a small knife the natural outline of the 
core. Large apples of irregular form can be pared 
more readily after they are divided into quarters. 
Apples and most other fruits become discolored by ex- 
posure to the air, after they are pared, consequently 
they should not be pared any length of time before they 



Preparation of Food Materials, 29 

are put to cook ; but when they are — as circumstances 
frequently render it necessary for them to be — they 
should always be covered with several folds of towel 
wrung out of cold water. 

To Pick Over Berries. — Pour from the basket or box, 
upon a large white plate, enough berries to cover the 
surface, then remove all poor berries and dirt from the 
plate and carefully slip the berries into a dish. Repeat 
this process until all the berries have been picked over. 
Berries are so easily bruised and crushed that they 
should never be piled high in deep bowls until they are 
ready to be served. 

To Hull Strawberries. — Take each berry between 
the thumb and fingers of the left hand, gather up the 
hull and stem with the thumb and forefinger of the 
right hand, and by a gentle twist remove them, leaving 
the berry unbruised or uninjured in the least. 

To Wash Berries. — With rare exceptions, berries, 
currants, and all small fruit should be washed before 
they are served. For washing them, use an earthen 
bowl, larger at the top than at the bottom, and that will 
hold at least a gallon. Fill the bowl nearly full of cold 
water. Slip the berries carefully from the plates upon 
which they were laid when picked over into the 
water, and with the hands lift and stir them gently, 
so as to free them of dirt and dust. Pour off the light 
dirt that rises to the surface of the water, and, with the 
hands, lift the berries into a flat-bottomed sieve, and let 
them drain a few minutes. If more than a quart of 
berries is to be washed, pour those in the sieve into 
the dish from which they are to be served, and proceed 



30 The Art of Cookery. 

in a similar manner with those remaining unwashed. 

To Wash Rice. — Pick over the quantity of rice 
needed, put it in a bowl, cover with tepid water, lift in 
the hands and rub the kernels briskly against each other 
to remove the starch. Rinse in cold water several 
times, or until the water ceases to look milky, then 
drain and put at once to cook. 

To Wash Oranges and Lemons. — Before oranges and 
lemons are used they should be well scrubbed with a 
small, stiff brush, in warm water, then be rinsed in cold 
water and wiped dry. 

MANAGEMENT OF A COAL FIRE. 

To START a fresh coal fire in a range, lay in a suffi- 
cient quantity of dry kindlings, add a little coal, open 
the drafts, and light the kindlings. Be careful to have 
the kindlings burning briskly, and the coal well ignited, 
before any more coal is added, and also not to let the 
fire get under too great headway before the dampers are 
closed. Only a small quantity of coal should be put on 
at a time, and when it is fairly ignited more should be 
added, until the requisite degree of heat is obtained. 
When a steady, continuous heat is wanted for baking, 
the front damper should be closed, or nearly so, and an 
occasional sprinkle of fresh coal added to the fire. The 
fire-box should never be packed so full of coal as to 
cause the griddles and top of the stove to grow red-hot. 
When the fire Is not wanted for active use in cooking, 
a little coal should be put on and all the dampers closed. 
Unless the stove is perfectly air tight, which is seldom 
the case, it will, when thus closed, burn slowly and re^ 



Preparation of Food Materials. 51 

duce the coal to ashes, leaving scarcely any cinders or 
clinkers; and when fresh coal is put on and the dampers 
are opened, the fire will be bright and clear and ready for 
use in a few minutes. It is very important in the man- 
agement of a coal fire to avoid exposing the live coal 
to the air, or keeping too strong a draft on the stove. 
Exposure of burning coal to the air deadens and turns 
it to cinder in a short time, and when the draft is very 
strong it causes a greater combustion of fuel than is 
necessary, carries off heat that should be utilized, and 
soon fills the stove with clinkers. 



PART IIL-METHODS OF COOKING. 



INTRODUCTION. 

At first glance the methods of cooking seem almost 
innumerable. But upon careful examination it will be 
found that there are only four, namely: broiling, baking, 
boiling, and frying. All other methods are merely 
nominal, being modifications, variations, or combinations 
of these four primary methods. It will also be found 
upon examination that the action going on within the 
article being cooked is very similar in character, whether 
the article is being broiled, baked, boiled, or fried. But 
the flavor and digestibility, as well as the nutritive value 
of various articles of food are very differently affected 
by the different methods of cooking. 



CHAPTER V. 

BROILING. 

Broiling is one of the most perfect methods of cook- 
ing many articles of food, and may be accomplished 
quite successfully, without either broiler or gridiron, on 
a bed of live coals or over a clear blaze. Broiling is the 
sudden searing and browning of the surface of food; and 
a steak or chop to be perfectly broiled must have its sur- 
face instantly seared or cooked. This instantaneous 
searing, or surface cooking, hardens the albumen and 
forms a coating which shuts in the juices of the article 
being broiled ; provided it is turned frequently enough 
to keep the seared surfaces intact during the process. 

Where much broiling is to be done a charcoal burner 
is very desirable; but the light wire broiler or toaster that 
opens and closes with hinges and can be held in the 
hand — of which nearly all shapes and sizes are manu- 
factured — is so convenient and so admirably adapted to 
the purpose that it is difficult to imagine how any one 
who understands the elementary principles of cooking, 
and knows anything about the management of a fire, 
should care to seek an easier or a better method of 
broiling for the average family than that aiforded by an 
ordinary range or cook-stove and a wire broiler. With 
one of these broilers, which can be held in the hand and 
turned quickly, at pleasure, steaks, chops, poultry, game, 

34 



Broiling. 35 

fish, oysters — in fact, any article of food that it is ad- 
visable to broil — can, when the fire is in proper condi- 
tion, be broiled over the fire in a common range or 
cook-stove in about as perfect a manner as it is possible 
to broil food. 

How to Broil. — Have a clear, bright fire in the 
range. Open the main damper so as to create a good 
draft and allow the escape of smoke or gas. Remove 
one of the front griddles and place the article to be 
broiled in the broiler, and over the open griddle-hole. 
Turn the broiler frequently to keep the meat from burn- 
ing, to prevent the juice from being forced through its 
seared surfaces by the heat, and to allow it to cook 
evenly on both sides. If the drippings from the fat of 
the meat create a blaze, withdraw the broiler an instant 
until the blaze subsides. A deep cover laid over the 
meat will retain the heat and facilitate the broiling. 
When the fire becomes dull — if coal is used — add a 
sprinkle of fresh coal, replace the griddle, and use the 
other end of the stove, which, having been protected 
from the air, will be clear and bright. Where but one 
griddle is removed at a time a portion of the fire can be 
kept always in good condition, and by adopting this 
method broiling can be carried on continuously as long as 
desired. When a wood fire is used for broiling, the wood 
must be kept blazing brightly, or the coals glowing vigor- 
ously, all the time. If the wood is dry and sufficiently 
fine, and is kept burning briskly, almost any article of food 
can be broiled over it very perfectly, and without being 
either burned or smoked. Gas, either natural or artificial, 
when rightly managed, makes an excellent broiling fire. 



36 The Art of Cookery. 

To Broil a Steak. — Trim neatly by removing with a 
sharp knife the outer skin and superfluous fat. Fill the 
broiler compactly, after greasing it, adjusting the meat 
to the size of the griddle-hole of the stove. Hold close 
down to the coals or blaze an instant until the under 
surface of the meat is seared. Turn and sear the other 
side in a similar manner. Then, by frequent turnings, 
allow the inside to cook gradually, and the outside to 
brown nicely without becoming hardened. The intense 
heat applied to the under surface of meat in broiling 
drives the juices toward the opposite surface, and unless 
the broiler is turned frequently enough to keep both 
surfaces well seared the juices will be forced out and the 
meat rendered dry, tough, and innutritions. 

Some like steak rare, others well done, and tastes dif- 
fer so widely that the exact time necessary for broiling a 
steak cannot be given. A steak an inch thick will cook 
rare in eight minutes, medium in ten minutes, and well 
done in twelve minutes, and during the process of cook- 
ing the broiler should be turned at least twenty times. 
A thinner steak requires a shorter, and a thicker steak a 
longer time to broil. One can determine the condition 
of a steak pretty correctly in this manner : Press upon 
it with the point of a spoon or a dull knife blade. If 
the resistance to the pressure is firm the steak is un- 
cooked. If the resistance is slight the steak is rare. If 
there is no resistance it is well done. When a steak is 
sufficiently cooked it should be served at once. The 
usual method of serving a steak is to lay it on a warm 
platter upon which has been placed a small quantity of 
butter, salt, and pepper; but it is quite customary to 



Broiling. 37 

serve a steak without seasoning, thus permitting the 
eater to season according to inclination. 

A popular cook-book, after giving some sensible di- 
rections for broiling a steak, adds, * ' It should when 
broiled be well seasoned, placed on a piping hot platter, 
and another hot platter placed over it and left there for 
ten minutes to draw out a nice, rich gravy." In its 
proper place ** a nice, rich gravy " is undoubtedly a good 
thing, but most people consider it superfluous with a 
tender, juicy, perfectly broiled steak; and especially so 
when it is manufactured of juices drawn, expressly for 
that purpose, from the steak. A broiled steak should 
never be placed upon * * a piping hot platter, ' ' lest it 
get overcooked and have the juices drawn out; but as 
soon as broiled it should be put upon a warm plate or 
platter and kept at a moderate, even temperature. So 
treated it will remain for ten or fifteen minutes in 
nearly as perfect condition as when removed from the 
broiler. 

Fresh meats should not be seasoned before they are 
put to broil, or while broiling; neither should the surface 
be cut or broken during the process of broiling. The 
juices are extracted and the meat rendered dry and 
tasteless by such practices. 

To Broil Chops. — Mutton chops should have most of 
the fat removed from them and should be trimmed 
neatly, and broiled and served like beefsteak. A mutton 
chop should be at least an inch thick. 

Lamb chops should be trimmed, broiled, and served 
like mutton chops. As the fat of lamb is more delicate 
than the fat of mutton, a larger quantity of fat should be 



38 The Art of Cookery. 

left on a lamb than on a mutton chop. Lamb chops are 
frequently served on thin slices of dry toast. 

Veal and pork chops may be broiled, like mutton or 
lamb chops, but the best method of cooking is to saut6 
or braise them. 

To Broil Sweetbreads. — If the sweetbreads are young 
soak them an hour in cold salted water, then cut in 
slices and broil over the fire, in a wire broiler. If they 
are old and tough, place them in boiling water, cook 
until tender — from half an hour to two hours, according 
to age — remove from the fire, place in cold water to 
harden, and, when perfectly cold, wipe dry, slice, and 
broil. 

To Broil Tripe. — Dry the pieces of tripe on a towel, 
brush them on both sides with melted butter, to induce 
rapid browning, lay on a wire broiler, place over the 
fire, and turn two or three times, or until nicely browned 
and perfectly heated all through. Baste with butter and 
serve on a warm platter. Tripe should always be boiled 
or stewed before it is broiled. 

To Broil Liver. — Dust the slices of prepared liver 
wdth flour, dip in melted butter, place in the broiler, and 
broil and serve like beefsteak. 

To Broil a Chicken. — Lay the prepared chicken on a 
towel, flatten with a rolling-pin, put in a wire broiler, 
place over the fire inside down, and let it remain in that 
position until well seared, then turn the broiler over, 
sear the skin side, and so turn and sear alternately until 
thoroughly broiled. Lift to a warm platter, season, and 
serve. 

A small, young chicken — and no other should be 



Breiling. 39 

cooked in this manner — will broil over a brisk fire in 
fi'om fifteen to twenty minutes ; but unless the fire is 
bright and in good condition the chicken will be im- 
perfectly cooked, and as a consequence will be stringy 
and comparatively tasteless. 

To Broil Prairie Chicken. — Both prairie chicken and 
grouse can be broiled in the same manner as chicken. 

To Broil a Quail. — Have ready some melted butter in 
a heated platter. Dip the prepared quail in the butter. 
Drain and lay in the broiler over bright coals. Remove 
occasionally and dip in, or baste with, the butter. As 
soon as the bird is an even brown all over, take it from 
the broiler, add a sprinkle of salt and pepper to the but- 
ter left from basting, and pour the mixture over the bird. 
This makes a dainty dish for an invalid. 

If a number of quails are to be broiled, plunge them 
for half a minute into fat or oil at frying temperature, 
drain, place in a broiler, and broil over a bright fire. 
The quail is such a dry-meated bird that none of its 
juices should be lost in cooking ; and as this hot oil 
bath shuts them in very effectually it is quite a desirable 
accessory in broiling quail. 

To Broil a Fish. — Place the prepared fish in a wire 
broiler, put it over a brisk fire, skin side up, and when 
the inside is well seared turn the broiler over and sear 
the skin side. After both sides have been seared, con- 
tinue turning the broiler as frequently as necessary, 
thus searing the two sides alternately, until the fish is 
thoroughly cooked. 

To Broil Oysters.— Roll the oysters in fine bread 
crumbs, dip in melted butter, lay in a wire broiler, and 



40 The Art of Cookery. 

cook quickly over a brisk fire, turning the broiler as 
often as necessary. 

To Broil Ham. — Cut the slices of ham rather thin, 
place them in a wire broiler, and broil over a quick fire, 
turning frequently, till both sides are nicely browned. 

To Broil Tomatoes. — Select tomatoes not over ripe, 
wash, wipe, and slice in thick slices. Season with salt, 
sugar, and pepper, roll in fine bread crumbs, or in flour, 
dip in melted butter, and broil in a wire broiler over a 
clear fire. 

To Toast Bread. — When a slice of bread is placed 
near a clear fire it gradually browns or toasts. The 
same method of cooking that is termed broiling when 
applied to meats is termed toasting when applied to 
bread. Broiling must therefore be varied somewhat in 
its application to different articles. The heat applied to 
a steak when first put to broil cannot be too intense, for 
the best results are obtained when the surface is seared 
or cooked instantly. But in toasting or broiling bread 
this is not the case. The application of heat to the slice 
of bread in order to toast it properly should be gradual, 
as the object is not to shut in the moisture which the 
bread contains but to drive it out, and gradually dry 
and brown the surface of the bread. Bread is toasted to 
divest it of moisture, as well as to brown and give it a 
peculiar flavor. Toasting converts the insoluble starch 
in bread into a soluble substance called dextrine, which 
after being moistened by the saliva is easily digested. 
For this reason bread properly toasted agrees better 
with weak stomachs than any other kind of bread. But 
if the slices are thick and are carelessly held before or 



Broiling. 41 

over a very hot fire, the outside becomes quickly 
browned and toughened, the moisture is driven in, in- 
stead of being evaporated, and the toast is rendered 
clammy and indigestible. To make good toast it is 
necessary to observe these directions : Cut the bread 
in even slices about half an inch in thickness. Slightly 
dry them in the oven, or before the fire. Put each slice 
on a toasting fork, or in a wire broiler, and hold it be- 
fore or over a clear bright fire of coals, but at a sufficient 
distance from them to allow it to brown evenly without 
burning. When the surface of one side becomes a rich 
golden color, turn and toast the other side in a similar 
manner. Serve in a toast rack, or on a warm plate. 
Be careful not to pile the slices on each other, or they 
will lose their crispness and flavor. 

Toast of good quality can be made only from sweet, 
light, well-baked bread ; and no amount of toasting will 
convert inferior bread, or bread that is sour, heavy, and 
half-baked, into toast that is digestible or fit to be eaten. 

GRIDDLE BROILING. 

It goes without saying that a griddle cannot super- 
sede or fill the place of a broiler. But when the fire 
is not in proper condition for a broiler to be used ad- 
vantageously, a hot griddle can be made to serve as 
a very acceptable substitute. And steaks, chops, etc., 
cooked on a hot griddle — if properly done — are just 
as much broiled as if they had been cooked in a 
broiler over hot coals. For the outer surfaces can be 
seared as thoroughly, and the juices retained as per- 
fectly, by the latter as by the former method. Food 



42 The Art of Cookery. 

broiled on a griddle differs somewhat in flavor from food 
broiled on a gridiron or broiler ; but when one has to 
choose between the use of a wire broiler over a slow fire, 
and the use of a hot griddle over a quick fire, there 
should be no hesitancy about deciding in favor of using 
the griddle. 

To Broil Steak or Chops on a Griddle. — Use a cast- 
iron or steel griddle. Have it smoking hot. Lay upon 
it the steak or chops to be cooked, and press the meat 
close to the griddle. When the side next the griddle is 
brown, turn and let the other side brown, and so turn 
and let brown as often as is necessary to keep the surface 
seared and the juices within the meat. If left too long 
upon the same side the heat of the griddle will force the 
juices through the upper surface of the meat, but if the 
article being cooked is turned frequently enough the 
juices may be retained within, as perfectly as when the 
broiling is done in a broiler over the coals. 

For broiling steak or chops on a griddle most suc- 
cessfully it is better to have them only of medium thick- 
ness, and it may frequently be desirable to remove the 
bone before placing upon the griddle. It is certainly 
always best to do so when the bone projects enough to 
prevent the surface of the meat adhering to the griddle. 
A thick steak, after both sides have been seared on the 
griddle, may without removal therefrom be thoroughly 
cooked by being put into a very hot oven for eight or 
ten minutes. If the broiling has been skilfully done, 
when the steak or chop is lifted to the platter a 
small piece of butter can be put on the griddle, which 
should stand in a cool place, and with a spoon or knife 



Broiling. 43 

the brown juices of the meat that adhere thereto can be 
removed, mingled with the melted butter, and poured 
over the steak or chop. 

To Broil Oysters on a Griddle. — Drain the oysters in 
a colander or sieve, dip each oyster in melted butter that 
has been clarified, and lay upon a plate for convenient 
handling. Have a griddle clean, smoking hot, and per- 
fectly dry. Fill it quickly with the drained oysters, 
laying them closely together upon it. By the time the 
griddle is filled, if the fire is sufficiently hot, the oysters 
first laid upon it will be browned and broiled. With a 
limber knife and a fork turn the oysters upon the grid- 
dle, in the order in which they were laid upon it. As 
soon as they are turned begin removing those first put 
upon the griddle, and so proceed until they are all lifted 
upon a warm platter on which salt, pepper, and butter 
have been placed. Or they can be laid upon thin slices 
of toast and seasoned with salt, pepper, and melted 
butter. 

OVEN BROILING. 

Experiments prove that many articles of food can be 
broiled perfectly in the oven of an ordinary range, by 
the application of hot air. And although there are 
many that cannot be so broiled, notably all meats with 
cut surfaces, no reason exists why the things that can be 
broiled better and more conveniently in an oven than 
over coals should not be so broiled, and this method of 
cooking be known as oven broiling — which it actually 
is — rather than baking or roasting. 

The temperature of an oven for successful broiling 



44 The Art of Cookery. 

should be at least five hundred degrees — considerably- 
higher than for baking bread or roasting meats — and 
should remain so until the article to be broiled has be- 
gun to brown nicely, when the heat can be lessened and 
the cooking finished at a lower temperature. 

To Broil a Chicken in the Oven. — After the chicken 
has been split down the back and properly prepared, lay 
it inside down upon a meat-board and press the joints 
and breast-bone close to the board with a rolling-pin — 
crushing them down until the chicken is quite flat — then 
wipe off all moisture with a dry towel, and lay the flat- 
tened chicken inside down upon a smoking hot roasting 
pan. Put a weight upon it to keep it pressed close to 
the pan until well seared and lightly browned. After 
the searing and browning have been accomplished re- 
move the weight, and put the chicken, without taking it 
from the pan, into a very hot oven. Place it on the 
upper grate so the greatest heat may be from above. 
Close the oven door and leave the chicken undisturbed 
for twenty minutes. At the end of that time it will be 
evenly browned on the outside, and, if young and not 
large, will be perfectly cooked all through. If full 
grown or very large it will have to be cooked from 
forty to sixty minutes. When cooked, lay upon a 
platter, season with salt, pepper, and melted butter, and 
serve. 

To Broil Quail in the Oven. — Plunge the prepared 
birds in deep fat at frying temperature for half a minute, 
then place them as close together as possible on a roast- 
ing pan, and put them in a very hot oven for fifteen 
minutes, or until nicely browned all over. Or dip them 



Broiling. 45 

in melted butter, instead of immersing in hot fat, lay in 
the roasting pan, put in the oven, and broil. 

Small birds of any kind may be broiled in the same 
manner as quail, and served on thin slices of either dry 
or buttered toast. 

To Broil a Rabbit in the Oven. — Spread the prepared 
rabbit open, flatten with a rolling-pin or mallet, lay 
inside down in a roasting pan, and broil in a hot oven 
like a chicken. When the rabbit is thoroughly cooked 
pour into the roasting pan two or three tablespoonfuls of 
hot water, add two of melted butter and one of minced 
parsley, let simmer a few minutes, season to taste with 
pepper and salt, pour over the rabbit, and serve. 

To Broil a Squirrel in the Oven. — A squirrel may be 
prepared, cooked, and served in the same manner as a 
rabbit. The flavor of parsley is so admirably adapted 
to that of rabbit or squirrel that it can always be appro- 
priately used with either. 

To Broil a Fish in the Oven. — Open the fish down 
the front, lay it, skin side down, on a fish rack, or on 
oiled paper, in a roasting pan, season with salt, pepper, 
and melted butter, and dust with flour. Put to cook on 
the upper grate of a hot oven, and, when nicely browned, 
place on a warm platter, season with plain or parsley 
butter, and serve. A fish weighing three or four pounds 
will broil in an oven at the right temperature in about 
half an hour, and one of larger size in a proportionately 
greater length of time. 



CHAPTER VI. 

BAKING. 

Roasting used to be done before an open fire, and 
before the invention of cook-stoves and ranges was a 
very important branch of the culinary art. The oper- 
ation was performed by placing the fish, fowl, or piece 
of meat to be roasted before an open fire, at the proper 
distance therefrom, on what was called a "spit," which 
was turned frequently while the article being roasted 
was vigorously basted with water or gravy, to keep it 
from burning. To our ancestors who roasted in this 
manner, and baked in a clay or brick oven, built es- 
pecially for the purpose, or, as was generally the case, 
baked in an iron bake kettle, or "Dutch oven," by 
placing coals beneath it and coals on the lid, the words 
roasting and baking had different meanings. 

In her book on * ' Practical Cookery ' ' Mrs. Henderson 
says : * * Beef, mutton, turkeys, ducks, or birds, in fact, 
every kind of meat, is tenfold better roasted than 
baked," and old people who were in early life accus- 
tomed to the open-fire method of roasting, stoutly con- 
tend that all articles so cooked are far tenderer, juicier, 
and sweeter than those cooked in the closed oven of a 
stove or range. But since there is no probability of the 
practical cook-stove and range of the present day being 

discarded for the poetic brick oven and open fireplace of 

46 



Baking. 47 

the past, it is useless to advance arguments either for or 
against the old-time methods of roasting and baking. 
The cook-stove and range have come to stay, and roast- 
ing and baking are processes so similar nowadays that 
the distinction between the two processes is, for prac- 
tical purposes, a ' ' distinction without a difference. ' ' 
Moreover, people have got so in the habit of using the 
-terms baking and roasting indiscriminately when speaking 
of the cooking offish, fowl, meats, vegetables, fruit, etc., 
in ovens of stoves and ranges, that no misapprehension 
arises from such use of the words ; and, as there is es- 
sentially no difference in the results, it matters very little 
whether we call this process of cooking food in the oven 
roasting or baking. 

It is quite as important to know how to bake properly 
as it is to know how to prepare properly, or make ready 
for baking, the different articles of food that must undergo 
the process of baking in their preparation for the table ; 
and the anticipated results that should legitimately fol- 
low the careful mixing and seasoning of dishes are often 
defeated by ignorant or careless baking. Many a good 
thing is spoiled in the oven, and probably as much food 
is ruined by being improperly baked as by being im- 
properly prepared. 

To become skilful in baking one must know the tem- 
perature required for baking different articles of food, 
and also the method of applying the heat. For example : 
the temperature for baking bread should be at least 375 
degrees ; for roasting beef, lamb, mutton, veal, and 
other meats that have had their cut surfaces seared, it 
should be about the same ; for roasting poultry and 



48 The Art of Cookery. 

meats that have not had their cut surfaces previously 
seared it should be 50 or 75 degrees higher ; while for 
broiling chickens, etc. , it should be at least 1 50, prob- 
ably 200, degrees higher than for bread. And as an 
oven thermometer is readily obtainable, which, when set 
in the door of a cook-stove or range, indicates on the 
outside the temperature of the inside of the oven, it 
ought to be an easy matter for any one to become an 
expert in the use of an oven. 

It is generally supposed that the temperature should 
be higher for roasting meats than for baking bread, but 
such is not the fact, unless the meat has not previously 
had its cut surfaces seared ; and in such case an extreme 
temperature should be maintained only long enough to 
sear properly the cut surfaces of the roast. When a 
joint of meat has been properly seared its juices will be 
richer and its flavor much finer if it is roasted in an oven 
of the right temperature, than if it is roasted in an oven 
with the temperature either too high or too low. Bread, 
rolls, biscuit, and pastry require a higher temperature 
than cake, buns, and other delicate preparations of 
dough. Cake baked in thin layers and known as ** layer 
cake ' ' will bear almost as much heat as buns, but loaf 
cake requires a considerably lower temperature, until it 
has fully risen. The more delicate the cake the less heat 
it will bear. White sponge cake or angel food requires 
less heat than any other kind of cake, and less, perhaps, 
than anything that is baked, except omelet souffl6 and 
kisses. 

Some articles, for perfect baking, require greater heat 
.at the top than at the bottom, some require greater heat 



Baking. 49 

at the bottom than at the top, while others require a 
uniform heat at the top, sides, and bottom. For roasting 
meats, poultry, fish, bread, etc., the best position is in 
the middle of the oven where the heat is uniform. For 
broiling, chicken, fish, etc., should be placed upon the 
upper grate so as to have sufficient heat to broil and 
brown them. But for bread, cake, puff paste, and such 
articles as are expected to grow light and puff after being 
put in the oven, the greatest heat should be at the 
bottom. 

When a thermometer is not used this is a reliable 
method of ascertaining the temperature of an oven : 
Put a spoonful of flour on a piece of paper, slip it in the 
oven, close the door, and if the flour browns nicely and 
evenly in two minutes, the temperature is about right 
for bread, and can, after a little practice, be graded to 
suit other articles of food quite accurately. 

To Roast Beef. — Place the clean cut side of the meat 
upon a smoking hot pan. Press it close to the pan un- 
til seared and slightly brown. Reverse it and let the 
opposite side become similarly seared and brown, then 
put it at once into the oven, the heat of which should be 
the same as for bread, and leave it undisturbed till 
cooked. If the oven is not too hot the meat will re- 
quire no basting. When the temperature of the oven 
is correct and the cooking is going on properly the meat 
will keep up a gentle sputtering in the pan ; but if, upon 
opening the oven door, this sputtering is not distinctly 
audible more heat is required, and the temperature of 
the oven should be increased. If, however, smoke 
should be discernible in the oven the heat is too intense 



50 The Art of Cookery. 

and should be lessened, as the drippings in the pan will 
not brown and smoke unless the heat of the oven is too 
great. 

For roasting beef in this manner, after it has been 
seared, fifteen minutes should be allowed for each inch 
in thickness the roast may be, without regard to its 
width or weight. A roast of beef that is three inches 
in thickness will cook rare in three quarters of an hour, 
a roast that is six inches in thickness will cook rare in an 
hour and a half, and so on in about the same ratio with 
different sized roasts. If a roast is desired medium or 
well cooked, additional time must be allowed, and it can 
thus be cooked to suit any taste. A roast that will re- 
quire more than an hour to cook should be placed upon 
a rack or rest in the pan after it has been seared, as there 
will then be no danger of its becoming grease-soaked or 
burned, and when half done it should be turned over on 
the rack that both sides may be roasted alike. After 
the roast has been removed from the pan, if the greater 
portion of the drippings is carefully poured off, a de- 
licious gravy can be made from the brown jelly or glaze 
adhering to the bottom of the pan. 

In a little cook-book entitled "Just How" the author, 
Mrs. Whitney, says : 

' * In roasting meat do not put it at first in a very hot 
oven, but have a good fire growing hotter that will make 
the heat brisk and sustain it after the meat is heated 
through. Let it heat gradually, and yield some portion 
of the juice for gravy, before you seal up the surface by 
browning. A joint of meat after being well washed 
and trimmed should be rubbed evenly with fine salt be- 



Baking. 51 

fore being put to roast. Put in at first a pint of water 
with a teaspoonful of salt for the basting. If you follow 
this method carefully there will be no trouble with the 
gravy. ' ' 

It is to be hoped not. But how about the meat ? The 
method of roasting recommended by Mrs. Whitney is in 
all probability an excellent one for producing good 
gravy, and if the production of gravy was the object in 
view might pass unchallenged as a model method for 
making it. But is it altogether just to the roast to sacri- 
fice it for the sake of the gravy, when good gravy ma- 
terial is so easily obtained from odds and ends and tough 
pieces of meat? And is it not a little unfair to scientific 
cookery to call such a method of cooking meat roasting? 

For roasting meats the method adopted should be the 
one that preserves the juices within the meat in the most 
perfect manner, thus rendering it sweet, juicy, and 
tender. Salt and water have a tendency to extract the 
juices of meat and toughen it, and basting is a trouble- 
some, as well as a damaging, process. Why, then, 
should beef and mutton and lamb and such meats as are 
injured by salting and basting have the delicate flavor, 
and much of the nutrition, tortured out of them by being 
subjected to the operation ? Searing almost instantly 
coats the cut sides of a piece of meat, and prevents the 
escape of the juices in the process of roasting, while a 
firm, steady heat gently but thoroughly cooks it, thus 
preserving both juices and flavor. 

To Roast Mutton — A saddle or joint of mutton 
should be prepared by carefully removing the outer skin, 
searing the cut surfaces, and roasting in the same manner 



52 The Art of Cookery. 

that beef is roasted. Mutton requires a longer time 
than beef to roast. Currant or other acid jelly should 
be served with roast mutton. 

To Roast Lamb. — Prepare and roast the same as 
mutton. Serve with either jelly or mint sauce. 

To Roast a Leg of Lamb or Mutton. — Remove the 
outer skin carefully and sear the cut end. Roast lamb 
an hour and a quarter, mutton an hour and three quar- 
ters. A leg of lamb or mutton, because it is less fat and 
more juicy, is preferred by many to the loin. 

Venison should be roasted like mutton and served 
with jelly. 

To Roast Veal. — Veal is a meat that lacks flavor and 
richness, and is greatly improved by seasoning with 
salt, sugar, and pepper before it is cooked. Veal will 
bear more salt than beef, mutton, or poultry, and about 
half as much sugar as salt should be used in seasoning 
it. Shake the sugar from a dredging box directly upon 
the meat, then add the salt and pepper. If it is to be 
stuffed, prepare a stuffing as directed on page 27 and fill 
all available spaces with it. Make pockets under the 
skin and fill them with it, or pack it upon the inside of 
the roast, roll up tightly, pin with skewers, tie securely 
with twine, place upon a rack in the roasting pan, and 
put in the oven. As soon as it is a light brown color 
baste with a thin gravy, and renew the operation every 
fifteen minutes until the roast is thoroughly cooked. 
It requires fully twice as long a time to roast veal as it 
does to roast beef or mutton, and as the frequent bast- 
ings keep it from becoming hardened, a piece of veal 
weighing not more than three or four pounds can be 



Baking. 53 

roasted with advantage two or two and a half hours. 

To Roast Fresh Pork. — Season, Hke veal, with salt, 
sugar, and pepper. A little powdered sage may also be 
added, if liked. Roast the same as veal and baste, 
every fifteen minutes after the pork has begun to brown, 
with hot water seasoned with salt and pepper. Pork 
requires very thorough cooking to render it wholesome 
or palatable, and should be roasted a greater length of 
time even than veal. 

To Roast a Leg of Young Pork. — Remove the 
bone, fill the cavity with highly seasoned bread crumbs, 
prepared as for veal, with the addition of a little pow- 
dered sage, if liked, and roast as directed for pork. 

Roast Turkey. — ''With much experience in hotel 
life," writes Mrs. Henderson in a book on cookery, " I 
have never seen a piece of turkey on a hotel table that 
was fit to eat. Besides being tasteless they are almost 
invariably under-cooked. A small turkey of seven or 
eight pounds should be roasted or baked three hours at 
least. A very large turkey should not be cooked a 
minute less than four hours — an extra hour is prefer- 
able to a minute less." Mrs. Henderson, who generally 
writes intelligently on culinary subjects, has suffered so 
acutely in her hotel experiences in being forced to eat 
under-done turkey that she inclines a little to the other 
extreme, and by strictly following her directions one can 
scarcely fail to have over-cooked turkey. If the heat of 
the oven is as great as the turkey, with frequent bast- 
ings, will bear, without becoming too brown, and is kept 
firm and steady, a seven-pound turkey will cook just 
right in two hours ; and with the oven at the proper 



54 The Art of Cookery. 

temperature, twenty minutes to the pound is as much 
cooking as any turkey will bear. Turkey, when prop- 
erly roasted, is juicy, tender, and high-flavored ; when 
over-done it is dry and tasteless ; but when under- 
done it is nauseating and unfit to be eaten. 

To Roast a Turkey. — Place the turkey, after it has 
been properly cleaned, in a large bowl, tail downward, 
put the prepared crumbs, for which see page 27, in at 
the neck until the breast becomes plump, then draw the 
skin together, and fasten over on the back. Reverse 
the position of the turkey in the bowl, put the remain- 
ing crumbs in the body, at the opening through which 
the entrails were removed, and sew it up with strong 
thread. Press the wings and legs as close to the body 
as possible, and secure them firmly in position with 
strings or skewers. Lay the turkey, breast downward, 
on a rack in the roasting pan, and let it remain in that 
position until the back is a light brown color, then turn 
it over, and let the breast and sides brown in a similar 
manner. Do not put any water in the pan during this 
process. When the entire turkey is nicely browned 
begin basting with a thin gravy. As this basting gravy 
evaporates, add a little boiling water to keep it from 
burning in the pan, and baste as often as the skin of the 
turkey becomes dry, until the roasting is completed. 

To Roast a Chicken. — The method of preparing and 
roasting a chicken is the same as for preparing and 
roasting a turkey. The time required for roasting a 
chicken varies, according to its size and age. But an 
hour and a half is sufficient time to allow for a large, 
full-grown chicken not over a year old. Fowls more 



Baking. 55 

than a year old should be steamed a longer or shorter 
time, according to age, before being roasted, or they 
will be tough and dry. But boiling and stewing are 
such admirable methods of cooking tough fowls that it is 
advisable never to roast a chicken unless it is young and 
tender. 

To Roast Wild Duck. — After wild ducks have been 
prepared for roasting, rub them inside with salt and 
pepper, put in each duck a small piece of butter and a 
little currant or cranberry jelly, and roast twenty-five or 
thirty minutes ; or fill them with bread moistened with 
currant or cranberry juice and seasoned with salt, 
pepper, and butter. A wild duck that has a fishy 
flavor will be improved by parboiling, before roasting, 
in water with a medium-sized onion. 

To Roast Quails. — Stuff, place on their backs close 
together in a roasting pan, and put in a very hot oven. 
As soon as they are nicely browned, baste with mush- 
room, celery, or some simple sauce. Quail will roast in 
about thirty minutes. 

To Roast Sweetbreads. — Sweetbreads, after they have 
been soaked in salt water and properly trimmed, should 
be rolled in flour, then in melted butter, placed close 
together in a roasting pan, put in a hot oven, and, when 
brown, basted with any sauce preferred. 

To Bake a Heart and Liver. — Soak the liver an hour 
in cold water that has been well salted. Boil the heart 
in salted water until tender. Then put them in the 
baking pan together, and dredge with flour. Add a 
spoonful of butter and a sprinkle of pepper to the 
water in which the heart boiled, and pour into the pan 



56 The Art of Cookery, 

with the heart and liver. Baste frequently and bake an 
hour. 

A calf or beef tongue can be boiled and baked in the 
same manner as a heart. The skin must be removed 
from the tongue when boiled, before it is prepared for 
baking. 

To Bake a Fish. — Fill the fish lightly with stuffing 
prepared as directed on page 28, and truss it in this 
manner : Mak^e a large knot on the end of a strong 
piece of twine, or tie the end of the twine around a 
short wire skewer. With a trussing needle draw the 
twine through the fish, close to the head, then slightly 
below the middle, and again close to the tail. Draw the 
cord or twine tight enough to hold the fish in a position 
resembling the letter S, and fasten it. Place the fish on 
its belly in a roasting pan and bake until cooked and 
nicely browned, basting occasionally while it is baking 
with hot water and butter, or with a thin gravy, if pre- 
ferred. When cooked, remove the cord and serve the 
fish in the same curved position in which it was baked, 
on a warm platter, garnished with parsley, cress, or 
celery ; or bake, without stuffing, in this manner : Make 
gashes across the fish, on each side, about two inches 
apart. Put slices of salt pork or breakfast bacon in the 
baking pan, and lay the fish on them. Cover the 
gashes on the upper side in a similar manner with slices 
of pork or bacon, then set in the oven, and close the 
door until the fish is cooked. If the oven is at the 
proper temperature the fish will require no attention 
until ready to serve. The length of time required to 
bake a fish depends upon its size, but when sufficiently 



Baking. 57 

cooked the flesh will flake and separate easily. A 
medium-sized fish will roast in three quarters of an 
hour. A quick heat is necessary to develop the finest 
flavors of fish ; and to bake a fish properly it should be 
given all the heat it will bear without burning. 

To Scollop Oysters. — Drain a quart of oysters. To 
a pint of Bread Crumbs No. 2 add salt and pepper 
suflicient to season the oysters properly. Mix the 
seasoning uniformly through the crumbs with a fork. 
Then enrich them by sprinkling through, and mixing 
with them, half a cup of melted butter. Take a fire- 
proof dish or baking pan not more than two inches 
deep, in which to cook the oysters. Scatter a thin 
layer of the seasoned crumbs over the bottom of the 
dish. Cover the crumbs with oysters, laying the 
oysters close together, but not overlapping each other. 
Sprinkle with the crumbs until nearly hidden from view, 
then add another layer of oysters and again sprinkle 
with crumbs. The top layer of crumbs should be 
heavier than either of the other layers — should contain 
fully one half the quantity of crumbs used — and but 
two layers of oysters should be put in the dish. Do 
not pour oyster juice, water, or liquid of any kind over 
the oysters after they are put in the dish. Bake in an 
oven, at the same temperature as for beef, for fifteen or 
twenty minutes, or until the crumbs on top are a rich 
chestnut brown. Remove from the oven as soon as 
cooked and serve at once, and the oysters will be 
plump, juicy, hot to the center, and surrounded by a 
delicious, moist coating of crumbs. 

To Scollop Oysters, No. 2. — Drain a quart of oysters. 



58 The Art of Cookery. 

Scald and skim the juice drained from them. Butter a 
baking dish and lay three or four thin sHces of buttered 
toast upon the bottom of the dish. Put half the oysters 
upon the toast. Cover them with thin slices of buttered 
toast, and put the balance of the oysters upon the toast. 
Add hot, sweet cream to the liquor drained from the 
oysters until there is a pint in all, then season to taste 
with salt and pepper, and pour it over the oysters in the 
dish. Bake fifteen or twenty minutes in an oven at the 
temperature for roasting meats. Serve at once. 

If oysters are cooked a long time in a deep mass the 
juices are drawn from them, and they become tough and 
indigestible ; and if cracker crumbs are used in scollop- 
ing oysters they give the oysters a peculiar, unpleasant 
flavor. 

To Bake Potatoes. — The potato furnishes an excel- 
lent illustration of right and wrong methods of baking. 
There is, of course, but one right method of baking 
potatoes ; but they are baked by three different methods, 
and it is only by accident, and not oftener than once in 
ten times that the average cook in baking potatoes pur- 
sues the proper method. Following one method, the 
potato is placed in a very hot oven, and before it is half 
cooked a thick crust is formed which is sure to be 
charred and burned by the time the potato is thoroughly 
baked. Following another method, the potato is placed 
in an oven at a low temperature and the oven is allowed 
to remain at the same temperature until the baking is 
completed, in which case the result is a soft, flabby, 
limp production devoid of character and almost flavor- 
less. Following another method, which is the correct 



Baking, 59 

one, the potato is placed in an oven of moderate tem- 
perature and subjected to a gradually increasing heat, un- 
til the inside is thoroughly cooked, the skin has assumed 
a light brown color and a firm consistency, and the at- 
mosphere is filled with the delicious aroma of a perfectly 
baked potato. 

An excellent method of baking potatoes, and one that 
will be found convenient when it is necessary to bake 
them in less time than is required to do it in the oven, is 
this : Put the potatoes into boiling water and let them 
boil rapidly for ten or fifteen minutes, then bake in a hot 
oven until they are well cooked and have a rich brown 
skin. Parboiling potatoes in this manner heats them all 
through so quickly and thoroughly that the time required 
to bake them afterward is reduced at least one half. 
When baked potatoes are taken from the oven a gash 
about an inch in length should be made lengthwise in 
each potato, and the ends should then be pressed, to 
widen the gash and permit the steam to escape. Baked 
potatoes should be served in a deep dish or tureen, 
lined with a napkin that can be lightly folded over so as 
to protect them from the cold air. Served in this man- 
ner they will remain hot and mealy for a considerable 
length of time. 

To Bake Sweet Potatoes. — Sweet potatoes may be 
baked like white potatoes ; or they may be cooked in 
this manner : Boil in a liberal quantity of water until 
they can be easily punctured with a fork, then drain, re- 
move the skin, divide into halves lengthwise, dust with 
salt and sugar, roll in melted butter, place in a dripping 
pan, and bake in a hot oven until a rich brown crust is 



6o The Art of Cookery. 

formed. After sweet potatoes have been parboiled and 
peeled they may be put in the roasting pan with turkey, 
chicken, beef, veal, or other meats, and thus baked. 
White potatoes can be treated in a similar manner. 
Sweet potatoes are improved in flavor by being very 
thoroughly cooked. 

To Bake Tomatoes. — Select perfect tomatoes of me- 
dium size, wash, wipe, and place together, with the stem 
side down, in a shallow earthen or porcelain-lined baking 
dish that has been well greased with butter. Bake in a 
hot oven an hour, or until the skins are brown and the 
tomatoes cooked all through. Serve with salt, pepper, 
butter, and a sprinkle of sugar, if liked. 

Or wash and wipe medium -sized tomatoes, cut them 
in halves, and place, skin side down, in a baking dish. 
Then season with salt, pepper, and sugar, if liked, cover 
with prepared Bread Crumbs No. 2, and bake until 
the crumbs are nicely browned and the tomatoes well 
cooked. 

Another method of baking tomatoes is to lay the to- 
matoes, after they have been peeled, in a buttered bak- 
ing dish, season with salt, pepper, and sugar, baste with 
melted butter, and bake till nicely browned. 

Still another method is to cover the bottom of a but- 
tered baking dish with prepared bread crumbs, fill 
with tomatoes that have been peeled and sliced, sprinkle 
a layer of bread crumbs on the tomatoes, and bake. 

A little finely minced onion — about a tablespoonful to 
each quart of tomatoes — may be added to tomatoes that 
are to be baked, either by sprinkling on the bottom or 
top of the dish. 



Baking. 6 1 

To Bake Onions. — Peel the onions, put them in a 
buttered baking dish, season with salt and pepper, and 
baste with butter. Then cover the dish and bake until 
the onions are tender. Serve in this condition ; or re- 
move the cover and let the surface of the onions brown 
before serving. Or the butter may be omitted, and as 
soon as the onions are tender a tablespoonful of cream 
for each onion may be added, and the cooking continued 
for ten or fifteen minutes longer. 

Another method of baking onions is to peel, boil in 
salted water ten minutes, drain, put in a buttered baking 
pan, season with salt and pepper, add a little butter and 
milk, and cook slowly until done ; or omit the butter 
and milk, and add a tablespoonful of soup stock for each 
onion. 

To Bake Squash, No. i. — Select a solid Hubbard, or 
other good squash. Wash, wipe, and cut in pieces a 
suitable size for serving. Lay the pieces close together, 
skin side down, in a shallow baking pan, and bake in a 
moderate oven an hour, or until thoroughly cooked. 

To Bake Squash, No. 2. — Pare and cut in pieces, 
put in a crock, cover closely, and bake two hours, then 
mash smooth, and season to taste with salt, pepper, and 
butter. 

To Bake Corn, No. i. — Turn back the husk on 
each ear of corn and carefully remove the silk, then re- 
place the husk and tie at the small end. Lay the ears 
thus prepared in a baking pan and bake in a hot oven 
half an hour, or until thoroughly cooked. 

To Bake Corn, No. 2. — Cut the corn from the cob, 
and scrape off the milk and eyes of the grains. To 



62 The Art of Cookery. 

each pint of corn thus prepared add a quarter of a pint 
of sweet cream, milk, or water, season to taste with salt, 
pepper, and butter, pour into a buttered pudding dish, 
and bake half an hour, or until cooked. 

To Bake Beans. — Soak a quart of white beans in 
cold water over night, or for eight or ten hours, then 
drain and put to cook in sufficient cold water to cover 
them. Add a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful 
of soda, and as soon as the water boils drain it off. Put 
in the pot in which the beans are to be baked half a 
pound of salt pork or corned beef and a tablespoonful of 
white sugar, or twice as much New Orleans molasses. 
Pour in the beans, fill the pot to within an inch of the 
top with boiling water, cover with a close-fitting lid, and 
bake in a very moderate oven from twelve to eighteen 
hours. As the water evaporates replace it with sufficient 
boiling water to keep the beans covered during the 
entire time they are in the oven. If the beans are liked 
browned they can be poured into a shallow baking pan 
and put in a hot oven until they are the color desired. 

To Bake Apples, No. i. — Select apples of a uniform 
size, remove the center of the blossom end and specks 
that may be in the fruit, wash and rinse in clean water, 
place, stems upward, in an earthen or granite-ware 
baking dish, pierce in several places with a fork, and 
put in an oven at the temperature required for bread. 
When perfectly baked the skins will be brown, and the 
flesh soft and rich in flavor. 

To Bake Apples, No. 2. — Pare and core the apples, 
leaving them whole, rinse in cold water, and place close 
together in a baking dish, the bottom of which has 



Baking. 63 

been well greased with butter and lightly sprinkled with 
granulated sugar. Sprinkle sugar over the apples and 
bake in a hot oven until they are a rich brown color. 
Unless the apples are very tart and juicy they should, 
when put to bake, be covered for about ten minutes. 
Apples baked in this manner are delicious served with 
the meat course at dinner. If they are to be served 
with cream for dessert, a little water and more sugar 
may be added when put to bake, and they may also be 
flavored with orange, lemon, or other fruit flavoring. 
But if the seeds are removed from the cores and put in 
the baking dish with the apples they will give them a 
finer flavor than any foreign flavoring substance that 
can be added. 

Sweet apples may be baked in the same manner as 
sour apples, but when pared, they should be basted 
with thin syrup, or with New Orleans molasses and 
water mixed in equal proportions. 

Pears are baked in all respects like apples. 

To Bake Bananas. — Peel the bananas, roll in melted 
butter and granulated sugar, lay a little distance apart 
in a roasting pan, and brown in a hot oven. Shake the 
pan occasionally while the bananas are baking. 

To Bake Almonds. — To blanch or skin almonds pour 
hot water over them and let them remain in the water 
until the skins can be slipped ofl" readily. After they are 
blanched mix a teaspoonful of olive oil or melted butter 
with each quart of almonds, put them in a roasting pan, 
and cook till a light brown, in an oven of the tempera- 
ture required for bread. Dust with fine salt as soon as 
taken from the oven. 



64 The Art of Cookery. 

To Bake Rice Pudding. — Stir together one cup of 
rice, one cup of granulated sugar, nine cups of cold, 
sweet milk, and salt to taste. Pour into a baking dish 
and put in an oven, the temperature of which is so 
low that it will require about half an hour to bring the 
mixture to boiling heat. As soon as the surface of the 
milk thickens and becomes wrinkled it should be stirred 
well, and every time the scum forms the stirring should 
be repeated, until the rice is tender. As soon as the 
rice is tender the stirring should cease, but the heat of 
the oven should be increased until the surface of the 
pudding assumes a light brown color. It is then suffi- 
ciently baked and should be removed from the oven. If 
easier or more convenient, the pudding may be cooked 
on the top of the range where the heat is gentle, until 
it is ready to bake and brown in the oven. This slow, 
gradual cooking condenses the milk and swells and 
cooks the rice, thus giving without the addition of 
cream, butter, or eggs, a rich pudding that is finer in 
flavor and more digestible because of the absence of 
these ingredients. 

To Bake Custards. — Custards and all souffle pud- 
dings — puddings composed largely of eggs — should be 
baked at a low, uniform temperature. For this reason 
it is advisable to bake by setting the dish containing the 
custard or pudding in a pan of hot water, in the oven. 
A custard pudding is cooked sufficiently as soon as it 
becomes stiffened at the center, and when it reaches that 
condition should be immediately removed from the oven. 
If allowed to remain longer the eggs harden, whey ap- 
pears, and the delicacy of the pudding is destroyed. 



CHAPTER VII. 



BOILING. 



The chimney-bar, and the crane on which half-a- 
dozen pots and kettles of various sizes dangled, have so 
effectually passed into oblivion, that, to people of the 
present generation, the names of these articles, so in- 
dispensable to every kitchen only half a century ago, 
have no significance whatever. Indeed, the open fire- 
place is so completely superseded by the cook-stove and / 
range, that the statement of their ever having been in 
general use for cooking purposes sounds more like a 
poetic fiction than a prosy fact. Even on the outer 
verge of civilization houses are now usually built without 
fireplaces ; and the cook-stove is in such general use 
that it is often set up under a tree, or in a temporary 
tent, and there brought into requisition for culinary 
purposes, while the future house of the pioneer is in 
process of erection. In the mode of boiling now 
generally pursued on stoves and ranges, there is, how- 
ever, no material change from that which was in vogue 
when the pot hung on the bar or crane in the huge fire- 
place, and its steam went puffing up the wide-mouthed 
chimney. 

Boiling is the term applied to the cooking of articles 
in water after it has reached the boiling point. When 
the density of the water is increased by the addition of 

65 



66 The Art of Cookery. 

salt or sugar, or some other substances, it retains heat 
longer, and requires a higher temperature to make it 
boil; but on mountains, or where the pressure of the 
atmosphere is lessened by any cause, it boils at a lower 
temperature. The thermometer shows that under ordi- 
nary conditions, at the level of the sea, water boils at 
212 degrees, and that after it has reached the boiling 
point and begins to escape in steam, it is only a waste of 
fuel to increase the heat of the fire. The water will 
evaporate or pass off in steam more rapidly by the 
addition of more heat, but it will grow no hotter, and 
articles immersed in it will cook no sooner by being 
rapidly boiled. 

Hard and Soft Water. — The solvent power of soft 
water is much greater than that of hard water. Conse- 
quently soft water, or water that is free from mineral 
matter, makes its way into organized tissue much more 
readily than hard water, and is, on that account, prefer- 
able for such culinary purposes as making soups, tea, 
coffee, and all infusions where the object is to extract 
the valuable properties of the animal and vegetable mat- 
ter subjected to the process of boiling or steeping. The 
solvent action of soft water upon some green vegetables 
is powerful enough, however, to destroy the firmness 
essential to the preservation of their juices and their 
peculiarly distinctive flavors, and to guard against this 
dissolving action, and prevent the vegetables from be- 
coming too tender, it is advisable to salt quite freely the 
water in which they are to be boiled, so as to harden 
it sufficiently to preserve the form of the vegetables and 
hinder the evaporation of their flavoring principles. 



Boiling. 67 

How to Boil. — Fish, meats, and poultry that are to be 
boiled should be immersed in boiling water, and boiled 
rapidly for from two to ten minutes — the length of time 
depending upon the article to be cooked — and should 
then be permitted to fall to simmering temperature, at 
which temperature the water should be held as uniformly 
as possible until the process of cooking is finished. The 
reason for such mode of procedure is simply this : 
When a piece of meat is plunged into boiling water the 
outer part contracts, the albumen, which is nearer the 
surface, coagulates, and the internal juices are kept 
from escaping into the water by which it is surrounded, 
or from being diluted and weakened by the absorption 
of water through the pores of the flesh. And the very 
reason that should induce us to place meats in boiling 
water and boil them rapidly for a few minutes should 
deter us, if we gave the matter any thought, from con- 
tinuing the rapid boiling. The coagulating and harden- 
ing process, which is desirable for the outside of the 
meat, any one can see at a glance, is undesirable when it 
is no longer necessary to form a coating or barrier for 
the preservation of its juices and flavors. Therefore, 
after meat has been boiled rapidly for a short time 
the remainder of the cooking should be done gently, by 
simmering, so that it can go on gradually through the 
agency of the natural moisture of the flesh being con- 
verted into steam or vapor by the heat. For meat when 
properly cooked — whether on a spit, in an oven, or sub- 
merged in boiling liquid — is cooked mainly by its own 
steam. And the skill of a cook consists to a great ex- 
tent in knowing how to regulate and temper the heat. 



68 The Art of Cookery, 

To subject a medium-sized fish to rapid boiling for two 
minutes effects as much in the way of hardening the sur- 
face and preventing the escape of juices and the loss of 
flavors as ten minutes does for a leg of mutton ; and for 
an ordinary sized piece of meat of any kind ten minutes 
is about the longest time required for this purpose. 
Salted meats before being put to boil should always be 
soaked for several hours in cold water. 

The difference between the right and wrong method 
of boiling is perhaps as apparent in boiled chicken as 
in any other article. A chicken immersed in a large 
quantity of water and boiled rapidly until ragged be- 
comes a tasteless object, only a trifle more nutritious than 
soup meat ; but boiled properly in a small quantity of 
liquid, the skin remains unbroken, the flesh becomes 
tender, and all the juices and flavors are retained in the 
fowl. A properly boiled chicken is a very appetizing 
dish, and is occasionally a desirable change from the 
almost invariable roast chicken. 

To Boil a Chicken. — Stuff the chicken, after it has 
been properly dressed, with Bread Crumbs No. i, 
seasoned sharply with salt and pepper, and moistened 
until sufficiently rich with melted butter. Truss the legs 
and wings close to the body. Wrap and fasten se- 
curely in a cloth that has deen dipped in hot water and 
dredged with flour. Put into a kettle of boiling, salted 
water — being careful to have enough water to com- 
pletely submerge the chicken — and cook until the skin 
assumes a gelatinous appearance and the fowl becomes 
tender. When done take out, carefully remove all the 
trussing strings and skewers, and lay on a platter. 



Boiliyig. 6g 

Serve, with egg, parsley, oyster, celery, or caper sauce. 

A turkey, or any other fowl, can be boiled in the same 
manner. 

To Boil a Leg of Lamb. — Wipe, trim off the fat, 
wrap and fasten securely in a wet cloth dredged with 
flour, put in a kettle of boiling water, slightly salted, 
and cook until tender. When sufficiently done take 
from the kettle, dip an instant in cold water, remove 
the cloth, and place the boiled joint on a platter. Serve 
with drawn butter, or with egg, parsley, or caper sauce. 

Mutton can be boiled and served in the same way. 

To Boil a Fish. — Dredge the prepared fish lightly 
with flour, wrap and secure firmly in a cloth, put in a 
kettle, and cook in slightly salted boiling water. A 
medium-sized fish will boil in about half an hour, and 
when it is sufficiently cooked the flesh will flake and sepa- 
rate easily. As soon as done take from the kettle, re- 
move the cloth in which it was boiled, drain well, lay in 
a folded napkin on a hot platter, garnish with lemon 
points and sprigs of parsley, and serve with drawn but- 
ter or fish sauce. 

To Boil a Ham. — Put the prepared ham to cook in 
boiling water, with the skin side down, and keep it sim- 
mering uninterruptedly until sufficiently tender. Allow 
about twenty minutes' cooking to each pound, and if at 
the end of that time the ham is not thoroughly done 
continue the boiling until it can be pierced easily with a 
fork. If to be eaten cold, let it remain in the water in 
which it was cooked until cold, then skin and serve as 
desired ; or, after the skin has been removed, cover with 
fine bread crumbs, moisten with sugar and vinegar, and 



70 The Art of Cookery. 

brown in the oven. If to be eaten warm, take from the 
vessel in which it was cooked as soon as sufficiently 
tender, remove the skin, lay on a platter, and serve. 

To Boil Corned Beef. — If the beef is too salt soak in 
cold water until sufficiently freshened, then put to cook 
in boiling water enough to just cover it and cook until 
very tender. Cabbage, cauliflower, turnips, spinach, 
beans, or carrots can be appropriately served with 
corned beef 

To Boil Spiced Beef. — Select the rump, round, or 
flank, and if very lean lard with salt pork, or beef suet. 
Put in a kettle with a medium-sized onion, carrot, and 
turnip, two or three sprigs of parsley, some trimmings 
of celery, six cloves, six pepper corns, and a tablespoonful 
of salt. Cover with boiling water and cook very gently 
from four to six hours, according to the age and con- 
dition of the meat. When the meat is perfectly cooked 
lift it on to a platter, strain the broth, remove the grease 
from it, thicken with butter and flour cooked together 
until brown (see Brown Sauce No. i), and serve the 
sauce with the meat. 

To Boil an Egg. — Pour a pint of boiling water into a 
small sauce-pan or other vessel, put the ^^^ in it, cover 
closely, place it where it will keep hot, and let stand for 
about six minutes. An ^^% so cooked will be evenly 
done all through without being hard, semi-raw, or slimy, 
and will be tender, delicate, and delicious. To cook 
eggs properly in this manner a pint of water should be 
allowed for each ^%%. And if many eggs are to be 
cooked at one time the inconvenience of using a large 
quantity of water can be avoided by pouring boiling 



Boiling. 71 

water upon the eggs, letting it stand a minute, then 
pouring it off and replacing with more boiling water. 

To hard-boil an ^^% put it in a pint of boiling water 
and let it remain there twenty minutes. This will render 
the yolk dry and mealy. Or put the ^^^ in cold water, 
bring the water to the boiling point, and let the ^%^ re- 
main in it for fifteen minutes. 

To Boil Vegetables. — The general rule in regard to 
vegetables is : Put them to cook in slightly salted 
boiling water and keep them simmering until done. 

To Boil Potatoes. — Boiling is the most common 
method of cooking potatoes, yet comparatively few 
people know how to boil a potato so that it will be dry, 
mealy, and fine-flavored. To boil either pared or 
unpared potatoes, put them in a liberal allowance of 
slightly salted boiling water, and keep them cooking 
gently until tender enough to be pierced easily with a 
fork, then drain off the water, sprinkle a little salt over 
the potatoes, cover them with a towel or napkin, and 
set the kettle containing them back on the range where 
they will dry off and keep warm. A medium-sized 
potato will boil in twenty-five minutes. Some prefer to 
have potatoes pared before they are put to cook, others 
prefer to have them boiled in their skins and the skins 
removed before the potatoes are sent to table, while 
others again prefer to have them boiled and served in 
their skins. But as there is no positive evidence that 
they are more nutritious or digestible when cooked pared, 
than they are when cooked unpared, it may be safely 
left to individual taste or fancy to determine whether 
potatoes shall be boiled with or without their skins. 



72 The Art of Cookery. 

To Boil Macaroni. — Macaroni is composed of wheat 
flour and water, and is simply paste of the proper con- 
sistency formed into certain shapes and dried. But it 
occupies the anomalous position of being classed among 
vegetables, and this is the best method of cooking it : 
Break the macaroni in pieces any length desired, put 
into well-salted boiling water, cook an hour, or until 
tender enough to be easily mashed with the fingers, 
then drain in a colander. Macaroni is inexpensive, is 
easily prepared for the table, and when properly cooked 
makes a very palatable and nutritious dish. Boiled 
macaroni should be served with drawn butter, or with 
white, brown, tomato, or other sauce, or with grated 
cheese. 

To Boil Asparagus. — Wash the asparagus, tie it in 
small bundles, cook till tender, and serve on toast, with 
melted butter, white sauce, or sauce Hollandaise. 

To Boil String Beans. — Put the prepared beans in 
boiling water slightly salted, boil gently fifteen minutes, 
drain, add just enough boiling water to cover the beans, 
simmer gently till tender, serve with melted butter or 
white sauce ; or let the water evaporate, as the beans 
become sufficiently cooked, add sweet cream, and season 
with salt and pepper. 

To Boil Cauliflower. — Trim, wash, boil gently until 
tender, drain carefully, put in a vegetable dish, and dress 
with drawn butter or white sauce. The white sauce 
may be flavored with grated cheese. 

To Boil Corn. — Remove the husk and silk from the 
ears of corn, boil ten minutes, or until cooked, cut the 
corn from the cob, season with salt, pepper, and butter, 



Boiling. 73 

and serve in a heated dish ; or lay the ears on a platter 
and serve. 

To Boil Carrots. — Wash, scrape, boil till tender, 
drain, season with butter, salt, and pepper ; or slice and 
serve with white sauce. 

To Boil Beets. — Wash the beets, boil them till tender, 
rub off the skin, cut in slices, and season with salt, pep- 
per, and melted butter. 

To Boil Cabbage. — Trim, wash, and divide each head 
of cabbage in quarters or eighths, boil till tender, drain, 
press out the water, and serve with white sauce or drawn 
butter. 

To Boil Turnips. — Wash and pare the turnips, boil 
till tender, drain in a colander, press out the water, 
mash fine, and season with salt, pepper, and butter. Or 
after they are drained cut in slices and serve with cream, 
or with drawn butter to which vinegar or lemon juice 
has been added until it is slightly acid. 

To Boil Parsnips. — Wash, boil till tender, drain, cut 
in slices, serve with drawn butter, or with a white sauce 
to which a little vinegar or lemon juice may be added. 

To Boil Sweet Potatoes. — Wash, boil till tender, 
drain, and dry off the same as white potatoes. Sweet 
potatoes are much dryer and nicer steamed than boiled. 

To Boil Spinach. — Put the prepared spinach in a 
small quantity of boiling water, cover closely, boil ten 
minutes, or till tender, drain in a colander, press out the 
water, season with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve 
with poached eggs, or with hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. 
Or after it is cooked and drained, chop fine, put in a 
stew-pan with a lump of butter, add a little sweet cream, 



74 ^/^^ ■^'^^'"■^ of Cookery. 

season with salt and pepper, stir till well heated, and 
serve with, or without, poached or hard-boiled eggs. 

To Boil Rice. — Put a cup of prepared rice into two 
quarts of boiling water and boil rapidly for fifteen or twenty 
minutes, drain in a sieve or colander, return to the vessel 
in which it was cooked, and set on the back of the range 
to dry off. Rice cooked and drained in this manner is 
very good, but is dry and tasteless in comparison with 
rice cooked according to the following method : Put a 
cup of rice into three cups of cold water slightly salted. 
Place it over a moderately brisk fire. Stir from the 
bottom occasionally with a wooden spoon, while the rice 
is swelling. After the water begins to boil briskly, 
and the rice to hop about, let it cook without stirring 
until it becomes so tender that the grains can be crushed 
between the fingers, then remove to a cooler part of the 
range and let simmer gently for a few minutes. During 
the time it is simmering lift the rice lightly from the 
bottom of the vessel by inserting a fork at the side of, 
and underneath, the rice. This lifting with the fork is 
quite important, as it aids the drying off, and, when 
skilfully done, leaves the grains distinct and separate. 

CEREALS. 

Preparations of the different varieties of grain are 
growing into popular favor so rapidly that every one 
should be acquainted with the best method of preparing 
them. Oatmeal, rolled wheat, hominy, and other cereals, 
when sent to table, as they generally are, in a half-raw, 
sloppy, or slimy condition, are not inviting articles of 
diet, and if eaten at all are eaten under protest and with- 



Boiling, 75 

out relish. Yet when properly cooked and served, any- 
one of them will make as delicious a breakfast or supper 
dish as can be desired. 

To Cook Cereals. — Pearled wheat, pearled barley, 
cracked wheat, crushed wheat, rolled wheat, rolled bar- 
ley, rolled oats, oatmeal, avena, coarse hominy, fine hom- 
iny, farina, farinose, and numerous other grain products 
that belong in the category of cereals can be cooked 
very nicely in an ordinary agate ware or porcelain-lined 
stew-pan, if carefully watched and frequently stirred. 
But as much stirring, while cooking, renders cereals 
starchy and robs them of some of their finest flavors it is 
better, as well as more convenient, to cook them in a 
double boiler or farina kettle. Fill the outside boiler 
about two thirds full of boiling water, set the inside 
boiler or kettle in it, put the proper quantity of boiling 
liquid in the inside kettle, add the requisite amount of 
salt, and sprinkle in the grain or meal, stirring slowly 
until it swells or thickens enough to keep it from settling 
on the bottom of the kettle, then cease stirring, cover 
closely, and let it simmer until thoroughly cooked. All 
mushes thicken in cooling, and in preparing any of the 
cereals to be eaten cold, the proportion of liquid used 
should be increased about one third. Water alone can 
be used for cooking any of the grains or grain products; 
but some of them are richer and finer flavored when the 
liquid used in their preparation is milk and water mixed 
in about equal proportions. This is more especially the 
case with barley, rice, hominy, farina, and farinose. 
The quantity of salt that should be used in cooking 
cereals depends considerably upon individual taste, but 



76 The Art of Cookery. 

care should be taken not to use too much, and a safe 
general rule is to add half a teaspoonful of salt to each 
pint of liquid. 

The general idea is that the cereals — grains and grain 
products of all kinds — can be cooked in from ten to 
thirty minutes, and most of them are served after they 
have been cooked about that length of time. All 
cereals, however, are much finer flavored and more 
digestible when thoroughly cooked — in fact, thorough 
cooking is the main point to be observed in the prepa- 
ration of cereals for the table — and this necessitates cook- 
ing them slowly, in a proper quantity of liquid, for a 
considerable length of time. If liquid has to be added 
during the process of cooking, or has to be drained off, 
after the grain is thoroughly cooked, some of the fine 
flavor is lost, and the result of such improper methods is 
generally an insipid mess, instead of a savory and appe- 
tizing dish. It is, therefore, very important that the 
same cup or vessel used for measuring the grain should 
be used for measuring the liquid in which the grain is to 
be cooked, so that the quantity of liquid be just sufficient 
to make the mush or porridge the proper consistency, 
and to perfectly develop the flavor of the cereal. 

The amount of liquid necessary, and the length of 
time required for cooking cereals properly, depend 
greatly on the nature of the cereals and the manner in 
which they have been milled or prepared, and cannot be 
given with accuracy without knowing the special brand 
of the cereal to be cooked. The following will, how- 
ever, be found approximately correct as regards the 
proportions of grain and liquid to be used, and the 



Boiling. 77 

length of time required to cook the grain and grain 
products mentioned : 

Farina. — Six cups of Hquid to each cup of farina. 
Cook half an hour. 

Coarse hominy. — Six cups of liquid to each cup of 
hominy. Cook from six to ten hours. 

Cracked wheat. — Five cups of liquid to each cup of 
wheat. Cook from three to six hours. 

Fine hominy. — Four cups of liquid to each cup of 
hominy. Cook from three to six hours. 

Coarse oatmeal. — Four cups of liquid to each cup of 
oatmeal. Cook from three to six hours. 

Rolled wheat, barley, or oats. — Three cups of liquid 
to each cup of grain. Cook an hour. 

BEVERAGES. 

To Make Coffee, No. i. — Any variety of coffee preferred 
may be used for making the beverage, but a mixture of 
one third Mocha and two thirds Java and two table- 
spoonfuls, or about an ounce, of ground coffee to each 
pint of water makes coffee that suits the average taste. 
It may be made stronger or weaker if desired, but it is 
always better to make coffee too strong than too weak. 
If it is made too strong it is easy to weaken it by the 
addition of water or milk, but if made too weak it is a 
difficult matter to strengthen it. 

When a pot with a cloth bag or other strainer is used 
in making coffee it is only necessary to put the desired 
quantity of finely ground coffee into the strainer, pour 
slowly over it one third the quantity of boiling water to 
be used in making the coffee, cover the pot closely, and 



78 The Art of Cookery. 

let stand until the water has trickled through the strainer, 
then pour on another third, and when that has trickled 
through add the remaining third, and in a minute the 
coffee will be ready to serve. 

It is not advisable to pour on all the water at once, as 
rinsing the coffee several times extracts the strength 
more perfectly. And to pour on all the water at once 
and pour the dripped coffee back into the strainer ex- 
poses it to loss of both strength and flavor. The water 
should be boiling hot when poured over the coffee, and 
should at first be poured around the outer edge of the 
coffee close to the sides of the pot and gradually toward 
the center. If poured into the center at first the coffee 
will be forced against the sides of the strainer without 
being moistened enough to extract its strength. Coffee 
should be ground quite fine for making it in this man- 
ner, but should not be crushed or pulverized. 

To Make Coffee, No. 2. — Mix the ground coffee with the 
white of an ^%% and a little cold water, stir well together, 
add half the amount of boiling water to be used in mak- 
ing the coffee, and set the pot on the stove until it boils. 
Let it simmer five minutes after it reaches the boiling 
point, add the balance of the boiling water, pour out a cup 
of the coffee and pour back into the pot, add a table- 
spoonful of cold water, and the coffee is ready to serve. 

To Make Coffee, No. 3. — Mix the coffee and &<g<g, add 
one third the quantity of water to be used, cold, set the 
pot on the stove until it boils, add another third of the 
cold water., and as soon as it boils add the balance of 
the cold water. When it again boils pour in a spoonful 
of cold water and it will be ready to serve. 



Boiling. 79 

Coffee should not be ground very fine when used in a 
pot without a strainer. If pulverized or ground very 
fine it renders the coffee troublesome to settle. 

Sugar caramel, used to sweeten coffee, improves it for 
many tastes, and coffee that is poor and flavorless can 
be greatly improved by the addition of sugar caramel. 

To Make Hygienic Coffee. — Pour a pint of New Or- 
leans molasses over four quarts of clean, coarse, wheat 
bran and rub lightly between the hands until thoroughly 
mixed. Put the moist bran in a roasting pan and roast 
in the oven like coffee, stirring every few minutes, until 
it assumes a rich brown color. Make the same as Coffee 
No. 2, using about twice the quantity, or mix, in equal 
proportions, with any variety of ground coffee, and make 
in the same manner. 

To Make Green Tea. — The proper quantity of tea to 
use is one teaspoonful to each pint of water. Heat the 
teapot by rinsing it well with boiling water. Put the 
tea in the pot, pour on enough boiling water to thor- 
oughly saturate it. Set the pot back on the stove 
where it will keep hot, but not boil, and let the tea steep 
from five to ten minutes, then pour on the quantity of 
water needed, and the tea will be ready for use ; or pour 
on all the water at once, when the tea is put in the pot, 
and let it steep. 

To Make Black or Oolong Tea. — Use two teaspoon- 
fuls of tea to each pint of water and make the same as 
green tea. 

To Make Ceylon or English Breakfast Tea. — These 
varieties of tea should be steeped at table, as they lose 
immensely in flavor by standing even a few minutes. 



8o The Art of Cookery. 

They are frequently steeped in individual cups, but are 
finer flavored when made in a pot. Have the pot well 
heated. Put in two or three teaspoonfuls of tea to each 
pint of water — the exact quantity can be determined 
only by the special kind of tea — add the boiling water, 
and the tea will be ready for use at once. 

The gases that are in water and give it an agreeable 
flavor, are driven off by boiling, and water that has 
boiled for any length of time, or that has stood in the 
kettle and been reboiled, will not make good tea, 
neither will water that has not quite reached the boiling 
point. Therefore only freshly boiled boiling water should 
be used for making tea. 

To Make Chocolate or Cocoa. — Excellent chocolate 
and cocoa can be prepared by following the formula that 
accompanies each package of those respective articles. 

To Make Koumiss. — Dissolve about half of a half- 
ounce cake of compressed yeast and two tablespoonfuls 
of granulated sugar in a quart of new milk. Pour into 
a bottle, leaving an inch space at the top, cork tightly, 
fasten the cork securely, and shake well. Let the bottle 
stand at a temperature of not less than sixty degrees 
from six to ten hours, then lay it on its side in an ice- 
box or other cold place from four to six hours more, 
and it will be ready for use. Bottles that have self- 
fastening stoppers are the most convenient to use in 
making koumiss. If it is preferred more acid let the 
bottle remain in the ice-box a greater length of time. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

STEAMING. 

Steaming is a modified form of boiling, in which food 
is cooked Uy exposure to hot steam instead of by im- 
mersion in boiling water. And a large proportion of 
the puddings that are usually boiled, fish of a delicate 
flavor, potatoes that fall to pieces easily in being boiled, 
corn on the cob, rice when the starch is to be preserved, 
Hubbard and other hard-shell squashes, and a variety of 
other articles are better steamed than boiled. 

To Steam a Fish. — Dust a prepared fish, inside 
and outside, with salt. Dredge the outside lightly with 
flour, wrap in a cloth, and place in a steamer over boil- 
ing water. Cover the steamer closely, and cook until 
the fish will flake easily. A five-pound fish will steam 
in half an hour. Serve on a hot platter in a napkin. 
Serve with it, in a tureen, drawn butter, parsley sauce, 
egg sauce, or sauce HoUandaise. Boiled potatoes or 
boiled carrots should be served with steamed fish, and 
if a relish is desired, sliced cucumbers, sliced tomatoes, 
cresses, or pickles are appropriate. Either catsup or 
fish sauce is also permissible. 

To Steam Oysters. — Wash the unopened shells con- 
taining the oysters and place them in a steamer over 
boiling water. Cover closely and cook five minutes. 
Serve the oysters in their shells, and serve with them, 
in a sauce tureen, hot lemon butter. 

8i 



82 The Art of Cookery. 

Clams should be steamed in the same manner as 
oysters. 

To Steam Potatoes. — Place the potatoes, either pared 
or unpared, in a steamer over boiling water. Cover 
closely and cook forty-five minutes, or until the potatoes 
are done, which can be ascertained by testing them 
with a fork. Serve in a napkin in a heated dish, and 
fold the corners of the napkin over the potatoes. 

Sweet potatoes can be steamed in the same manner. 

To Steam Corn. — Remove the outside husks and silk 
from each ear of corn. Fold back the inner husks and 
pick off worms, dirt, or defective grains, then twist the 
husks together at the small end of the cob, and lay the 
ears in a steamer over boiling water. Cook fifteen 
minutes and serve, without removing the husk, in a 
napkin, on a platter. 

To Steam Rice. — Pick over and wash the rice. Put 
it in the dish in which it is to be served and add a level 
teaspoonful of salt and three cups of boiling water to 
each cup of rice. Set in a steamer over boiling water, 
and cook half an hour, or until the rice is tender. Milk 
may be mixed with the water in any proportion de- 
sired ; or, if preferred, milk alone may be used instead of 
water. 

To Steam Squash. — Wash the squash, saw it in half 
crosswise, and with a stiff metal spoon remove the seeds 
and stringy portions. Lay the prepared pieces, inside 
down, in a steamer, over boiling water, and cook an 
hour, or until done, then take from the steamer and 
scrape the cooked squash clean from the shells. Put it 
in a heated bowl or sauce-pan, season to taste with 



Steaming. 83 

butter, salt, and pepper, mash smooth, and serve in a 
heated tureen or vegetable dish. 

If the squash should be watery, dry off in a sauce- 
pan on the back of the range ; if very dry, add a little 
sweet cream or milk in seasoning ; and if lacking in 
sweetness, add a small quantity of sugar. 

To Steam a Roly-Poly. — Wring a towel out of hot 
water, dredge with flour, lay the pudding on it, and fold 
the towel over the pudding. Place in a steamer over 
boiling water, cook half an hour or longer — according 
to the size or material of the pudding — and when done, 
lift from the steamer, in the towel in which it cooked, 
fold back the top covering, and roll the pudding upon a 
hot platter. 

To Steam a Batter Pudding. — Put the pudding in a 
buttered mold, fasten on the lid, and place the mold in 
a steamer over boiling water. Cover closely, and cook 
from one to four hours, according to the special kind of 
pudding. When the pudding is done submerge the 
mold in cold water an instant, and the pudding will 
turn out without difficulty. 

To Steam Small Puddings. — Fill individual molds, or 
cups, with the pudding batter or mixture, place in a 
steamer over boiling water, cover closely, and cook 
fifteen minutes, or longer, according to the special kind 
of pudding. 

To Steam Eggs. — Break the eggs into a shallow dish, 
season to taste, and steam from three to five minutes. 



CHAPTER IX. 

STEWING. 

Stewing, like steaming, is merely a modified form of 
boiling, differing from it mainly in these two respects : 
In boiling, most articles are cooked whole and in consid- 
erable water ; whereas, in stewing, they are usually 
cut in pieces and cooked in a limited quantity of water. 
For instance, a fowl, or joint of meat, may be boiled in 
water enough to make a limited amount of soup, in addi- 
tion to the sauce or gravy for the fowl or joint of meat ; 
but neither should be stewed in a greater quantity of 
liquid than is sufficient to cook it and make the sauce 
with which it is served. There are exceptions to these 
rules, as carrots, parsnips, onions, turnips, pie-plant, 
and some other high-flavored vegetables, are improved 
by parboiling and draining before being stewed ; but in 
the main they hold good and are applicable to the boil- 
ing and stewing of most articles of food. 

To Stew a Chicken. — Cut the prepared chicken in 
pieces suitable for serving. Separate the thigh, leg, and 
wing joints, divide the breast into four or more compact 
pieces, and separate the neck, back, etc. Put the giz- 
zard, heart, wings, and legs in the bottom of the kettle, 
then put in the neck, back, and bony pieces, reserving 
the second joints and breast for the top. Add a pint of 
boiling water for each full-grown fowl, cover the kettle 

84 



Stewing. 85 

closely, and after it has stewed a few minutes, add a 
tablespoonful each of butter and flour stirred to a 
smooth paste. Let it cook slowly, but unceasingly, until 
the fowl is tender, which can be ascertained by examin- 
ing the pieces on top. If the top pieces are found to be 
sufficiendy cooked, those beneath will be also, as in 
placing the pieces in the kettie, those requiring the most 
cooking were put at the bottom so as to be subjected to 
the greatest heat. A one-year-old fowl will stew in 
about an hour and a half, and each added year in age 
necessitates an additional hour's cooking. When the 
fowl has stewed until perfecdy tender, drain into a bowl 
all the liquid or broth, and set the ketde, with the pieces 
undisturbed in it, upon the back of the stove. If the 
broth is too oily, skim from it as much grease as you 
wish, then add to it a spoonful of flour stirred to a 
smooth paste with half a spoonful of butter, and season 
highly with salt and pepper, as this broth or gravy must 
season the entire fowl. After the gravy has been 
seasoned, pour it over the fowl in the ketde, let it sim- 
mer gendy for about ten minutes, then serve fowl and 
gravy together in the same platter. 

Meats stewed in a closely covered vessel need not be 
entirely covered with liquid, and a fowl, by occasionally 
turning, can be cooked whole in a quantity barely suffi- 
cient for gravy or sauce. 

Celery is always a suitable flavoring for stewed 
chicken, and several roots or stalks of celery can be 
added when the chicken is put to cook, and after being 
stewed with it can be removed when the chicken is 
served. Parsley may be used for flavoring whenever de- 



86 The Art of Cookery. 

sired, and the flavor of stewed chicken may be varied 
occasionally by cooking with the chicken a small onion 
and a small blade of mace. 

Stewed Chicken with Mushrooms. — After the broth 
has been drained from stewed chicken as directed above, 
add a pint of mushrooms to the chicken in the kettle 
before pouring the gravy over it. If canned mushrooms 
are used, add the water in the can to the broth, and 
make into sauce. 

Stewed Chicken with TrufEles. — Two medium-sized 
truffles are sufficient to flavor a full-grown fowl. Cut 
the truffles in small pieces, put them in the kettle with 
the chicken when put to cook, and stew and serve 
with it. 

To Stew Veal. — The ribs, breast, and thin pieces 
containing a good deal of fat are the most desirable por- 
tions of veal for stewing. Remove the outer skin, cut 
the meat in pieces suitable for serving, and stew and 
serve like chicken. 

To Stew Beef. — Select the same portions of beef as 
of veal. Remove the outer skin, cut the meat in pieces 
suitable for serving, put in a stew-pan or kettle with a 
teaspoonful of salt and just sufficient hot water to cover 
it, cover closely, and let cook until tender. Beef, if 
young, will stew in three hours, but if old and tough 
five or six hours' stewing may be required to cook it 
perfectly. It is always best, however, in stewing meats 
to allow sufficient time, as the stew when done can 
generally be kept warm for several hours without detri- 
ment. When the beef is cooked drain the broth from 
it, remove the grease from the broth, add the necessary " 



Stewing. 87 

quantity of flour and butter stirred to a smooth paste, 
and, as soon as the flour is uniformly mixed with the 
broth, season to taste with sah and pepper, pour over 
the meat, simmer ten minutes, and serve. For flavoring 
stewed beef an onion, a tomato, a teaspoonful of sugar, 
and two or three cloves, put to cook with the meat, 
form a good combination. Another good combination 
is formed by the addition of an onion, a carrot, and a 
tomato, or an onion, a sweet turnip, and a tomato. 
Celery roots and trimmings may be added to any of 
these combinations, and always improve them. The 
vegetables forming the flavoring combinations may be 
removed from the stew before it is served, or may be 
served with it. 

To Stew Mutton. — Select thin portions of mutton in 
which the lean and fat are about equally combined. 
Remove the outer skin, cut the meat in pieces suitable 
for serving, put it in a sauce-pan, add a teaspoonful of 
salt and hot water enough to barely cover the meat. 
Cover the sauce-pan closely, and let the meat cook 
slowly for three or four hours, or until tender, then drain 
the broth from it, remove the grease from the broth, add 
to the broth a tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoon- 
fuls of flour stirred to a smooth paste, and stir until the 
butter melts and the flour mingles uniformly with the 
broth. Then season to taste, pour over the mutton, add 
a tablespoonful of minced parsley or capers, let simmer 
five minutes, and serve. 

No better flavoring material can be used for either 
boiled or stewed mutton than parsley or capers. But, if 
desired, a mixture of such vegetables as are appropri- 



88 The Art of Cookery, 

ately used with stewed beef may be used with stewed 
mutton. 

To Stew Lamb. — Lamb should be prepared and 
stewed like mutton. It, however, requires only an hour 
and a half or two hours' stewing. Parsley or capers 
make the best flavoring for stewed lamb. 

To Stew Rabbit or Squirrel. — Rabbits and squirrels 
are prepared and stewed in the same manner as fowls, 
with the addition of a tablespoonful of minced parsley to 
each rabbit or squirrel, when put to cook. Parsley 
seems better adapted for seasoning rabbits or squirrels 
than any other herb or flavoring principle ; but for an 
occasional change any flavoring that is permissible 
with chicken or veal may be used with either rabbit or 
squirrel. 

FRICASSEEING. 

Stews are often, but very incorrectly, termed fricas- 
sees. A fricassee is a combination of a saute and a 
stew, and the meat for a fricassee should always be 
sauted or browned before it is put to stew. This saut6- 
ing or browning is best done in a small quantity of 
clarified butter, although drippings of beef or veal may 
be used, if preferred. 

A brown stew can be made by adding the butter de- 
signed for the gravy to the fowl or meat after it has 
been stewed and the broth drained from it, and letting it 
brown in the kettle or sauce-pan, then mixing the flour 
for the gravy, with cold water, and adding to the broth 
before it is poured over the browned meat. A stew 
made in this manner resembles a fricassee somewhat, but 
is in many respects inferior to it. 



Stewing. 89 

To Fricassee a Chicken. — Prepare a chicken as for 
stewing. Season the pieces with salt and pepper, roll in 
flour, fry or saute until light brown in color, then place 
in the stewing kettle. Put a pint of water in the pan in 
which the chicken was browned and after it has sim- 
mered five minutes pour it over the chicken. Cover the 
kettle closely and let the chicken simmer gently until 
cooked. Lift into a platter when done, and if there is 
not sufficient sauce add more water, and more flour, if 
required, to that in the kettle, cook five minutes, and 
strain over the chicken. A spoonful of sweet cream 
added to the sauce improves it for chicken or veal. 

Lamb, mutton, and veal are prepared and fricasseed 
in the same manner as chicken. 

BRAISING. 

Braising, like fricasseeing, is a combination of frying 
or sauteing and stewing. It is usually done, however, 
in an oven, in a braising pan having a close-fitting 
cover. The advantages of braising over stewing, for 
certain articles, are that a more uniform temperature 
can be obtained and the flavors of the food be better 
preserved on account of there being less evaporation. 
Braising is an excellent mode of cooking tough meats 
and poultry. 

To Braise Poultry or Meats. — Prepare as for stew- 
ing. Cut in pieces suitable for serving, season lightly 
with salt and pepper, roll in flour, brown in clarified 
butter or drippings in a frying pan or spider, then put 
in a braising kettle with such vegetables, herbs, and 
spices as are to be used for flavoring, add half as much 



90 The Art of Cookery. 

water as for stewing, cover closely, set in a moderate 
oven, and let cook slowly for several hours. Simple 
veal or beef broth may be used in place of water. 

To Braise a Calf*s Heart. — After the heart has 
soaked an hour in cold salt water remove the cartilage, 
fill the opening left by its removal with seasoned bread 
crumbs or sausage meat, tie up and saute until brown, 
in clarified butter or drippings, place in a braising pan, 
add such flavorings as may be desired, and half as much 
hot water or broth as would be used for stewing, cover 
closely, put in a moderate oven, and let cook slowly 
for four or five hours. 

TO STEW VEGETABLES. 

Much less water is required for stewing than for boil- 
ing articles of food. With this exception, the general 
rule in regard to boiling vegetables is the same as in 
regard to stewing them, viz. : Put to cook in slightly 
salted boiling water and keep simmering gently until 
done. The length of time necessary for boiling or stew- 
ing vegetables depends so much upon the age and con- 
dition of the vegetables, and varies so greatly, that it is 
impossible to give it with any degree of accuracy. All 
veo-etables, however, cook tender in a much shorter 
length of time when young and fresh than they do when 
old and stale. 

To Stew Beets. — Wash, parboil an hour, rub off the 
skin, cut in sHces, put in a stew-pan, cover with broth or 
water, add a lump of butter rolled in flour, simmer till 
tender, and season with salt and pepper. 

To Stew Greeu Shelled Beans,— Put the beans in 



Stewing. 91 

just sufficient water to cover them, stew gently half an 
hour, or till tender, add a little sweet cream, and season 
with salt and pepper ; or omit the cream, add a little 
butter, and season with salt and pepper. 

To Stew Dried Beans. — Wash and soak well. Put 
to cook in a liberal supply of cold water, to which a 
pinch of soda has been added. Pour off this water as 
soon as it boils, and add enough cold water to barely 
cover the beans. Salt lightly, cook gently four hours, 
or until very tender, then season with salt, pepper, and 
butter ; or serve with white or brown sauce. 

To Stew Carrots. — Wash, pare, parboil an hour, 
drain, slice, put in a stew-pan with a little broth or 
water, and simmer till tender. Season with salt, pepper, 
and minced parsley. 

To Stew Corn. — Cut the corn from the cob, scrape 
off the pulp and eyes. Put in a sauce-pan with a half 
pint of water to each pint of corn. Cover closely, stir 
occasionally to keep the corn from sticking to the sauce- 
pan and burning, and stew ten minutes, or till cooked. 
Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a little cream or 
butter, and serve. 

To Stew Cucumbers. — Pare, split in pieces length- 
wise, scrape out the seeds, cover with water, simmer 
until tender, thicken with flour and butter, and season 
with salt and pepper. 

To Stew Mushrooms. — Put the mushrooms in a stew- 
pan with a lump of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and 
a tablespoonful of lemon juice to each pint of mush- 
rooms. Cover closely, stew two minutes, or until ten- 
der, then thicken with a teaspoonful of flour, and serve. 



92 The Art of Cookery. 

The liquor of canned mushrooms should always be used 
in mushroom sauce or stewed mushrooms. 

To Stew Okra. — Wash and slice the pods, simmer 
in a little water or broth till tender, then season with 
salt, pepper, and butter, and serve. 

To Stew Onions. — Peel, boil half an hour, drain, 
cover with milk, stew until tender, drain, mash or chop, 
add a little cream, stir over the fire until thoroughly- 
heated, then season with salt and pepper ; or when 
cooked tender dress with salt, pepper, and butter, and 
serve whole. 

Asparagus Peas. — Wash asparagus, cut it in small 
pieces, simmer fifteen minutes, or till tender, in just 
enough water to cover it, thicken slightly with flour and 
butter stirred together, add a little sweet cream, and 
season with salt and pepper. 

To Stew Cabbage. — Slice or chop cabbage fine, stew 
in a small quantity of water till tender, season with salt, 
pepper, and butter, add a little sweet cream or vinegar, 
and serve. Stewed cabbage is usually called hot slaw, if 
it contains vinegar. 

To Stew Celery. — Cut the stalks of celery into pieces 
an inch or two inches in length, simmer fifteen minutes, 
or until tender, in a little water, add sweet cream, season 
to taste with salt and pepper, and serve ; or season, 
pour over slices of toasted bread, and serve. 

To Stew Salsify. — Pare, cut in pieces half an inch 
in length, stew half an hour, or till tender, drain, and 
serve with drawn butter or white sauce ; or mash fine, 
when drained, season with salt and pepper, add a little 
cream, and serve. Salsify should be laid in cold water 



Stewing. 95 

as soon as pared, to keep it from becoming discolored. 

To Stew Tomatoes. — Peel and slice the tomatoes, 
stew until thoroughly cooked, then season with salt, pep- 
per, and butter. Or cream may be used in place of but- 
ter, and, if liked, a delicate flavoring of mace or nutmeg 
may be added. Simple broth or stock of any kind may 
be used for stewing tomatoes, and a small quantity of 
onion or a few cloves may be added. The stew may be 
thickened, if desired, by the addition of bread crumbs, 
flour, cornstarch, or boiled rice. 

To Stew Parsnips. — Wash, pare, cut in pieces, stew 
an hour, or till tender, drain, press out the water, mash 
fine, season with salt and pepper, add a little cream or 
milk, and stir over the fire about five minutes. 

To Stew Peas. — Shell, put in a small quantity of 
water, cover closely, and stew half an hour, or until 
tender. Add sweet cream, a lump of butter rolled in 
flour, and season with salt and pepper. 

To Stew Potatoes. — Cut pared potatoes in slices 
about an eighth of an inch in thickness, stew gently till 
tender, drain, add a little cream or milk, season with 
salt and pepper, add a little minced parsley if desired, 
simmer a few minutes, and serve ; or when drained serve 
with white or other sauce. 

To Stew Winter Squash. — Split the squash in halves, 
remove the seeds and stringy portions, cut in pieces 
suitable for serving, pare, put in a kettle or stew-pan 
with a small quantity of boiling water, cover closely, and 
simmer gently until cooked. Serve with melted butter 
or with white or brown sauce. Or remove the lid from 
the stew-pan as soon as the squash is tender, let it dry 



94 The Art of Cookery. 

off, then mash fine and season with salt, pepper, and 
butter. 

To Stew Summer Squash — Cut the squashes in 
pieces, put them to cook in a Httle water, and when 
tender, drain, mash fine, and season with salt, pepper, 
butter, and sweet cream. 

TO COOK FRESH FRUITS. 

Fresh fi'uits and berries of all kinds are usually cooked 
by stewing, and should always be cooked in earthen, 
granite, aluminum, or porcelain-lined vessels, and stirred 
only with a wooden spoon. The use of tin or iron 
utensils for either cooking or stirring acid fruit affects 
both the color and flavor deleteriously. A little salt 
develops and emphasizes the flavor of cooked fruits or 
berries, and a slight pinch should be added to them 
while cooking, or when hot. Care should be taken, 
however, not to use too much. Sugar cooked for a few 
minutes with acid fruit is converted into glucose and 
loses its sweetening qualities to such an extent that two 
pounds of sugar added to acid fruit while cooking will 
sweeten it but little more than one pound will, if added 
to the fruit after it is cooked. Consequently it is not 
advisable in sweetening stewed fruit to add the sugar to 
the fruit and cook it with it any length of time. 

Jellies, jams, and marmalades are generally much finer 
in quality when made by gently simmering the fruit 
juices, or the crushed fruit used in their preparation, 
until sufficiently cooked, before adding the sugar, so 
that after it is added the cooking need be continued only 
long enough to dissolve it thoroughly and perfectly 



Stewing. 95 

combine it with the juice or fruit. So also are nearly- 
all manner of fruit preserves. The strawberry is a 
notable exception, as both color and flavor seem to be 
better retained when the sugar is cooked with the fruit. 

Apples should be stewed as rapidly as possible in order 
to preserve the flavor of the fruit. At the beginning of 
the process, a little water — as little as will serve the pur- 
pose — should be added to the prepared fruit in the 
kettle, which should be kept closely covered while it is 
cooking. The quantity of water depends in a great 
measure upon the dryness or juiciness of the apples. 
If they are juicy a tablespoonful to each pint will be 
sufficient ; whereas, if they are dry, a teacupful may not 
be too much. The flavor of the apple is usually delicate 
and easily destroyed, therefore only the quantity of water 
requisite for thorough cooking should be used. For the 
same reason all unnecessary stirring, during or after 
cooking, should be avoided. 

Apples, and stewed fruits generally, are finer flavored, 
and agree with most people better, if eaten while warm 
than when cold. 

To Stew Apples. — Pare, quarter, core, and wash the 
apples. Place the prepared quarters in a sauce-pan with, 
a small quantity of hot water, cover closely, and stew 
rapidly for five minutes. Upon removing the cover, the 
apples, if done, will be broken and so tender as to fall 
apart readily. If not done, replace the cover and cook 
a few minutes longer. Put in a bowl or dish half the 
quantity of sugar required, pour the cooked apples into 
the dish, sprinkle the other half of the sugar over them, 
cover closely, and serve hot or warm. 



96 The Art of Cookery. 

To Stew Cranberries, No. i. — To a quart of cranberries 
picked and washed add three fourths of a pint of boil- 
ing water, cover closely, and cook five minutes over a 
quick fire. Mash with a wooden spoon such of the 
berries as have not burst, and rub through a colander or 
pumpkin strainer into an earthen dish or bowl. Put 
the pulp into the sauce-pan in which the berries were 
cooked, add three fourths of a pint of granulated sugar, 
simmer five minutes, and serve hot or cold. When cold 
the sauce will be jellied. 

To Stew Cranberries, No. 2. — Stew and mash the 
cranberries as described above, then add the sugar, 
cook five minutes, and serve. 

To Make Cranberry Jelly. — Cook and mash the 
cranberries as above described, then pour into a jelly 
bag and let the juice drip through. To each cupful of 
juice add a cupful of granulated sugar, put into a sauce- 
pan, simmer five minutes, and pour into molds or 
cups. 

To Stew Pie-Plant. — Wash, but do not skin, the pie- 
plant, cut it in pieces an inch in length, cover with cold 
water, and heat to boiling point. Then drain off all the 
water, add a cup and a half of sugar to each quart of 
pie-plant, simmer five minutes, and serve warm. 

To Stew Green Gooseberries. — Pick over, stem, and 
wash the gooseberries. Cook and serve like pie-plant. 
Gooseberries and pie-plant require about an equal 
amount of sugar to sweeten them. 

To Stew Pears. — Wash the pears and remove blem- 
ishes, or pare, if preferred. Leave the pears whole. To 
each quart add a cup of New Orleans molasses, a cup of 



Stewing. 97 

hot water, and six cloves. Cover closely and cook 
gently until very tender. 

To Stew Peaches. — Prepare peaches the same as 
pears. To each quart of peaches add a cup of hot 
water and three quarters of a cup of sugar. Cover 
closely and stew gently until cooked. 

To Stew Plums. — Pick over and wash the plums, and 
to each quart of fruit add a cup of hot water. Cover 
closely and stew until cooked, then add sugar to taste, 
and let simmer five minutes, or until the sugar is per- 
fectly dissolved and mixed with the fruit. Serve hot or 
cold. 

Very acid plums require a pint of sugar to each quart 
of plums, while sweet ones do not require more than a 
quarter that amount. If the sugar is added when the 
plums are put to cook it will toughen their skins and in- 
jure their flavor. 

To Make Cider Apple Sauce. — Boil sweet cider until 
it is reduced one half, then add sweet apples that have 
been pared, quartered, and cored, and cook slowly until 
the apples are dark and transparent. The apples should 
be covered by the cider while cooking. If canned 
while hot, cider apple sauce will keep almost indefinitely, 
but if put in jars in a cool place it will keep several 
weeks without being canned. 

TO COOK DRIED FRUITS. 

Apples, plums, peaches, and all kinds of dried fruits 
are usually cooked without being properly soaked, and 
are often sent to table with a wrinkled and uncomely 
appearance, and frequently with an accumulation of dust 



98 The Art of Cookery. 

and grit about them that in no way adds to their attrac- 
tiveness or flavors. 

Dried fruit of every kind, after being thoroughly 
cleansed by washing in warm water, should be soaked 
in cold water until it loses its dried and wrinkled appear- 
ance, should be put to cook in the same water, and be 
simmered or stewed slowly and continuously for several 
hours, or until it becomes soft, when it should be sweet- 
ened and removed from the fire. 

Many dried fruits have their respective flavors modi- 
fied and improved when two or more varieties are 
stewed together, or cooked in conjunction with each 
other. Especially is this the case with such as are very 
sweet or very acid. 

To Stew Dried Prunes. — Wash the prunes and soak 
them over night, or for six or eight hours, in cold water, 
then put to cook in the water in which they were soaked, 
and let them simmer gently for two hours. Sweeten to 
taste and simmer five minutes. Serve hot or cold. 

Most prunes are improved by having an equal quan- 
tity of dried apricots stewed with them. In such case 
cook the prunes an hour, then add the soaked apricots 
and cook the two together another hour. 

The quantity of water necessary in stewing prunes, or 
other dried fruits, is just suflicient to cover the fruit 
thoroughly in the sauce-pan. 

To Stew Dried Apricots. — Wash the apricots, let 
them soak several hours in cold water, put them to cook 
in the water in which they soaked, let simmer gently an 
hour, then sweeten to taste, simmer five minutes more, 
and serve. 



Stewing. 99 

To Stew Dried Plums. — Soak and stew the same as 
prunes. If the plums are very sour they will be im- 
proved by mixing with them an equal quantity of prunes 
or seedless raisins. 

To Stew Prunellas. — Wash, soak, and stew like ap- 
ricots. Both apricots and prunellas make delicious 
sauce when cooked in combination with equal quantities 
of either prunes or seedless raisins. 

To Stew Dried Apples or Peaches. — Both dried ap- 
ples and dried peaches should be washed, soaked, and 
stewed like other dried fruits. Cook until tender, then 
sweeten and serve. Sauce made of dried fruits, like 
that made of fresh fruits, is generally finer flavored and 
more digestible when eaten warm than when eaten cold. 

To Stew Seedless or Sultana Raisins. — Pick over, 
wash, and soak several hours in cold water, then put to 
cook in the water in which they soaked. Add an equal 
quantity of prunellas or apricots that have been washed 
and soaked. Simmer for an hour, or until cooked, 
sweeten to taste, and serve. 
LofC. 



CHAPTER X. 

SOUP-MAKING. 

In preparing soup stock any ordinary pot or kettle 
can be used, but every kitchen should be provided with 
a stock pot or digester, by the use of which two or three 
times a week many scraps may be saved and a supply of 
stock always kept on hand, from which a variety of soups 
and sauces can be prepared at any time with very little 
trouble. For there are enough scraps of cooked and un- 
cooked meats, trimmings of roasts, steaks, chops, and cut- 
lets, and odds and ends of vegetables in nearly every house 
to keep the family supplied with nutritious, palatable 
soup with very little labor, and scarcely any additional 
expense. Soup stock is the juice or liquid extract of 
meat, poultry, game, fish, shell fish, or vegetables, and 
is used as the foundation of nearly all soups. To make 
soup stock, put into a kettle or digester, in cold water 
slightly salted, meat of any kind cut in small pieces, or 
meat and bones well cut and broken, heat the water 
gradually until it reaches the boiling point, then keep it 
simmering continuously until the juices of the meat are 
all extracted. The albumen of all meats is curdled and 
hardened by being put into boiling water, but is dis- 
solved and extracted by cold water ; and when meat is 
put into a vessel of cold water and put over the fire and 
soaked until the water reaches the boiling temperature, 



Soup-Making. loi 



and is afterward permitted to simmer gently, all its juices 
are extracted and mingled with the water so perfectly 
that the flavor of the stock is much finer than when 
boiled rapidly. Continuous simmering is very essential 
in soup-making. To let the stock boil rapidly is ob- 
jectionable, and to let it stop simmering before the 
process is finished is also objectionable. 

The flavor of soup depends greatly upon the freshness 
of the meat of which it is made, and the evenness of 
the temperature at which it is cooked. Tough and 
coarse pieces of meat make good soups and sauces, and 
can be converted into stock advantageously, as can also 
a great many refuse bits and scraps. But it is quite 
important that all meats of which stock is to made should 
be cooked before they get stale ; and the fresher the 
meat is, the finer will be the quality of the stock or juice 
extracted from it, and the better the soup made there- 
from. It is quite customary to carefully remove all the 
scum that rises to the surface when preparing soup stock, 
but there is no necessity whatever for doing so, as this 
scum is merely albumen or meat-juice coagulated by the 
increasing temperature of the water. If permitted to re- 
main after the water reaches the boiling point it will 
shortly become incorporated with the stock and increase 
its nutritive value. Its removal is not, therefore, rec- 
ommended. 

When meat and bones are well cut and broken up, all 
their valuable properties can, by proper cooking, be ex- 
tracted in four or five hours. After simmering that 
length of time the kettle should be taken from the fire, 
the stock strained through a colander into an earthen 



I02 The Art of Cookery. 

bowl, and, unless wanted for immediate use, should be 
set where it will cool as rapidly as possible, as the more 
rapidly it cools the finer will be its flavor, and the 
greater the length of time it can be kept. If stock is 
made of meat alone it will remain in liquid form when 
cold ; but if made of meat and bones in about equal 
proportions, it will be quite stiff and gelatinous on 
account of the gelatine extracted from the bones in cook- 
ing. 

Some soups are made without a special stock having 
been previously prepared, but stock of some kind is the 
base of a large majority of soups, and is the fluid foun- 
dation with which other materials are mixed and incor- 
porated to form the various soups that in cook-books 
and bills of fare are designated potages, purees, and 
consommes. 

Soup stock may be classified as : 

1. Simple Stock. 

2. Compound Stock. 

3. Mixed Stock No. i. 

4. Mixed Stock No. 2. 

Simple stock is the extract from a single kind of flesh, 
fish, fowl, or vegetable. Compound stock is the extract 
of two or more kinds of flesh, fish, fowl, or vegetables. 
Mixed Stock No. i is stock made from scraps and 
odds and ends of uncooked meats, vegetables, etc. And 
Mixed Stock No. 2 is stock made from scraps and odds 
and ends of cooked meats, vegetables, etc. 

Simple Stock of Vegetables. — Cut the prepared 
vegetable of which the stock is to be made into small 
pieces, put in slightly salted water, and simmer gently 



Soup- Making. 103 



until the vegetable is tender, and the stock sufficiently 
flavored. 

Asparagus Stock. — Cut the tender ends or points 
from a bunch of asparagus and reserve for stewing. Put 
the remainder into two quarts of slightly salted water, 
and simmer gently until the water is sufficiently flavored 
with asparagus, then strain and use for soup stock. 

Celery Stock. — Put the roots and coarse outside pieces 
of half a dozen stalks of celery into three pints of slightly 
salted water, simmer an hour, strain, and use for stock. 

Salsify Stock. — To one pint of sliced salsify add a 
quart of water and half a teaspoonful of salt, simmer 
slowly until the salsify is tender, strain, and use for 
stock. The salsify may be dressed with white sauce and 
served as a vegetable. 

Soup stock may, in a similar manner, be made from 
green peas, corn, etc., but, as a rule, it is advisable to 
rub peas, corn, and some other vegetables through a 
sieve and mingle them with the stock. 

Beef Stock. — Select a shin or shank of beef contain- 
ing as much lean meat as bone. Have the bone sawed 
in sections not more than two inches in length. Remove 
the skin from the meat and put the meat and bones to 
cook in sufficient cold water to cover them an inch in 
depth. Add a teaspoonful of salt to each gallon of 
water. Bring slowly to boiling point and let simmer 
four or five hours, or until the meat falls from the bones, 
then strain through a colander into an earthen bowl and 
set in a cold, well-ventilated place till cool. 

Prepare stock from mutton, veal, or any meat desired, 
in a similar manner. 



I04 The Art of Cookery. 

Chicken Stock. — Select a large, fat hen two or three 
years old and prepare as directed on page 2 1 . Separate 
the joints and cut the back into several pieces, but re- 
serve the breast whole and covered, as much as possible, 
with unbroken skin. Put all except the breast into a 
soup kettle, cover with cold water, add half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, some trimmings of celery, a sprig of parsley, 
or a small onion and small blade of mace, and set to 
cook ; or, if preferred, omit all flavoring materials from 
the stock. As soon as the water boils place the breast, 
skin side up, on the top of the other pieces, cover 
closely, and let simmer four hours, or until the skin of 
the breast becomes gelatinous. When perfectly cooked 
remove the breast to a tureen or bowl, strain the broth 
over it, and set aside to cool. The breast prepared in 
this way is in perfect condition for being made into salad, 
croquettes, or creamed chicken. The best portions of 
the meat from the back and joints can also be used for 
croquettes or hash. If the stock or broth is wanted for 
immediate use skim off the grease, after the cooked 
chicken has been removed, season, and serve. 

Stock can be prepared in a similar manner from any 
kind of poultry or game. 

Compound Stock. — Put together in the soup kettle a 
beef bone, a knuckle of veal, the back, legs, and wings 
of a fowl, an onion, a carrot, the roots and trimmings 
of six stalks of celery, and six cloves. Cover with cold 
water, add a teaspoonful of salt, let simmer four or five 
hours, strain, and set aside to cool. 

Mixed Stock No. i. — Take the trimmings of beef, 
veal^ mutton, lamb, or meat of any kind, the shank bone 



Soup- Making. 105 



of a ham, the roots and trimmings of celery, the odds 
and ends of corn, beans, or peas, and an onion, a turnip, 
and a carrot. Skin, wash, or otherwise prepare them. 
Put them ahogether into a stock pot — putting the bones 
in first — add salt, six or eight cloves, and a small pep- 
per pod, if at hand, and cover with cold water. Set to 
cook, let simmer five hours, strain into a bowl, and let 
cool. When cool remove the grease and the stock will 
be ready for use. 

Mixed Stock No. 2. — Take the skeleton of a turkey, 
chicken, or other fowl or bird, with any odds and ends 
of chops or steaks, or bones of roast beef or other meat, 
and put together in the stock pot with any stewed 
onion, tomatoes, corn, carrots, celery, or other well- 
flavored cooked vegetables that may be on hand. Cover 
with cold water, add a little salt, six cloves, a bay leaf, 
or other sweet herbs, simmer four or five hours, then 
strain and let cool. When cool remove the grease and 
the stock is ready for use. 

After the stock has been properly prepared there is 
comparatively little trouble attending the making of any 
kind of soup desired ; and it may be proceeded with at 
once, or may be postponed till another day. 

The variety of soups that can be made by varying the 
combinations of materials used in their preparation is 
almost illimitable, yet all soups can be legitimately classi- 
fied under four heads, viz. : 

1. Plain Soup. 

2. Clear Soup. 

3. Vegetable Soup. 

4. Mixed Soup. 



io6 The Art of Cookery. 

To one or the other of these classes everything in the 
nature of soup belongs, and the method of making the 
hundreds of different soups that are in use is so similar 
in the main that only a limited number of recipes is 
necessary to enable one to select from such material as 
is at hand the articles most appropriate for use in any 
special soup belonging to either of the four classes of 
soups. 

Two of the most important things to remember in 
soup-making are these : 

To render a soup most attractive and palatable its dis- 
tinctive flavor and individuality must be preserved. And 
each kind of soup should be distinct in character from 
every other kind of soup. 

The common stock, or consomm6, recommended by 
most cook-books, and generally used, for the base of 
soups and sauces is, in most instances, prepared by ming- 
ling together beef, veal, chicken, carrots, onions, turnips, 
celery, parsley, cloves, bay leaf, and other vegetables and 
herbs ; and as the human palate not only craves dis- 
tinctive flavors, but soon tires of the same flavor or the 
same combination of flavors, the folly of preparing such 
stock can be seen at a glance, and the importance of 
observing the rule in regard to preserving the individu- 
ality of soups may be realized in a measure. 

CLASS I. — PLAIN SOUP. 

Celery Broth. — To four cups of celery stock add one 
cup of white celery, cut in small pieces, and cooked until 
tender in one cup of slightly salted boiling water. Cover 
closely, simmer five minutes, season to taste, and serve. 



Soup- Making, loy 



Asparagus Broth. — To four cups of asparagus stock 
add the points of one bunch of asparagus cooked fifteen 
minutes, or until tender, in one cup of boiling water 
slightly salted. Cover closely, simmer five minutes, 
season to taste, and serve. 

Salsify Broth. — To four cups of salsify stock add one 
cup of salsify sliced thin and cooked fifteen minutes, or 
until tender, in one cup of slightly salted boiling water. 
Cover closely, simmer five minutes, season to taste, and 
serve. In making vegetable broths the water in which 
the vegetable is cooked should be added to the stock 
ivith the vegetable. 

Oyster Broth. — To one quart of oysters freed from 
bits of shell and rinsed in cold water, add two cups of 
boiling water, and cook until the thin edges of the oys- 
ters wrinkle and separate. Season to taste, and serve 
with crackers or toasted bread. 

For making this broth one cup of water and one cup 
of milk may be substituted for the water ; or all milk or 
all cream may be used. And, if desired, a tablespoon- 
ful of butter may be added to either broth. 

Clam Broth No. i. — To one dozen clams, finely 
chopped, add two cups of cold water, simmer fifteen 
minutes, strain out the clams, season the broth to taste, 
and serve. 

Clam Broth No. 2 To one cup of canned clam 

juice add two cups of boiling water, simmer five min- 
utes, season to taste, and serve. 

Chicken Broth No. i. — Simmer the required quan- 
tity of chicken stock five minutes, season to taste, and 
serve. 



io8 The Art of Cookery. 

Chicken Broth No. 2. — To four cups of chicken 
stock add one cup of vermicelli. Simmer five minutes, 
season to taste, and serve. 

Chicken Broth No. 3. — To four cups of chicken broth 
add one cup of boiled rice and one tablespoonful of 
minced parsley. Simmer five minutes, season to taste, 
and serve. 

Beef Broth No. i. — Season to taste the quantity of 
beef stock required, simmer five minutes, and serve. 

Beef Broth No. 2. — To four cups of beef stock add 
one cup of well-cooked barley, simmer five minutes, 
season to taste, and serve. Rice or crackers or toasted 
bread may be served with beef broth, if preferred to 
barley. 

Beef Tea No. i. — Beef tea is made in a somewhat 
different manner from soup stock, but can be very properly 
called plain soup. For making beef tea a cut from the 
round is preferable on account of its juiciness, and care 
should be taken to have it as fresh as possible ; and in pre- 
paring it the skin and fat should be all removed and the 
meat be cut in small pieces. It should then be put in a 
kettle or sauce-pan, barely covered with cold water, 
slightly salted, heated to the boiling point, and strained. 
It is then ready for use. 

Beef tea made according to this formula is very palat- 
able, and is relished by invalids when that extracted at a 
lower temperature is rejected. If allowed to settle the 
clear portion is simply a stimulant, but when served with 
the brown particles in it it is very nutritious. 

Beef Tea No. 2. — Prepare the meat as directed in 
last formula. Put it in a glass can or bottle and close 



Soup- Making. 109 



tightly. Place the can or bottle on an open rest in a 
sauce-pan or kettle of water, cover the sauce-pan, and 
heat the water gradually until near boiling point. When 
the juice is extracted from the meat it is ready to season 
and serve. 

Beef Extract. — Broil a thick sirloin steak as directed 
on page 36. Put it on a hot plate, dust lightly with salt, 
and, after it has stood a few minutes, pierce freely with 
a knife, and press out the juice with the back of a hot 
spoon. Serve in liquid form, or moisten thin slices of 
toasted bread, baked potato, boiled rice, or vermicelli 
with it. 

Mutton Broth No. i. — Heat mutton stock, season 
to taste, and serve. 

Mutton Broth No. 2. — To four cups of mutton stock 
add one cup of boiled rice and one tablespoonful of 
minced parsley. Simmer five minutes, season to taste, 
and serve. Toasted bread or cooked barley may be 
served in the broth, if preferred. 

Veal Broth. — To four cups of veal broth add one cup 
of cooked rice, vermicelli, or noodles with one table- 
spoonful of minced parsley. Simmer five minutes, 
season to taste, and serve. 

CLASS 2. — CLEAR SOUP. 

Clear soup is made from stock clarified and enriched 
in color and flavor. The clarifying process removes 
much of the flavor and nutrition from the stock, hence 
it is necessary to enrich it by the addition of meat 
juices and flavoring extracts. Clear soup should be 
served in cups, bowls, or soup-plates, as a clear liquid. 



no The Art of Cookery. 

with transparent thickening, poached eggs, dainty 
dumphngs, or ornamental vegetables. But nothing 
should be served in it that will injure its clearness. 

Clear Soup. — To four cups of simple or compound 
stock add one cup of lean raw beef cut in dice or small 
pieces, one ^^^ beaten with one cup of cold water, 
and one tablespoonful of meat caramel. Mix all well 
together in a sauce-pan, bring slowly to boiling point, 
and simmer half an hour. Strain through several folds 
of cheese-cloth, season to taste, and serve. 

Clear Soup with Curry. — To four cups of clarified 
stock add a teaspoonful of curry powder, simmer five 
minutes, season to taste, and serve. 

Great care should be taken in the use of curry pow- 
der, as it is a combination of various herbs and spices, 
among which pepper is quite prominent. 

Clear Soup with Tapioca. — To four cups of clear 
soup add one cup of pearled tapioca cooked in salted 
water until transparent, simmer five minutes, and serve. 

Clear Soup with Poached Eggs. — Heat the clarified 
soup to boiling point. Put a neatly-trimmed poached 
^^^ in each soup-plate, and serve a ladleful of soup 
upon it. 

Clear Soup with Dainty Dumplings. — Bring the 
clarified soup to boiling point and drop the dumplings 
into it, one at a time, in quick succession. As soon as 
they rise to the surface they are cooked and the soup 
should be served at once. 

Clear Soup with Sliced Lemon. — Slice a lemon cross- 
wise, in very thin slices, and serve one slice in each plate 
of soup. 



Soup- Making. 1 1 1 



Clear Soup with Mixed Flavoring. — Mix together a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of sugar, 
half a teaspoonful of lemon peel, a quarter of a tea- 
spoonful of grated nutmeg, and ten drops extract of 
ginger. Add to a quart of soup stock before clarify- 
ing it. 

This flavoring is recommended to those who think 
wine indispensable in clear soup. 

Clear Soup with Fancy Vegetables. — To four cups 
of clear soup add one cup of fresh vegetables, cooked 
in salted water — composed of about equal portions of 
carrot, onion, celery, turnip, and string beans, cut in 
dice, diamonds, or long thin strips — half a cup of 
cooked green peas, and a tablespoonful of minced pars- 
ley. Simmer five minutes, season to taste, and serve. 

Macedoine vegetables are mixed vegetables prepared 
and canned expressly for use in soups. They are con- 
venient and excellent. 

CLASS 3. — VEGETABLE SOUPS. 

Vegetable soups are made by adding vegetables to 
either a plain broth, a clear soup, or a vegetable stock. 
But when only a single vegetable is used in the prepara- 
tion of a soup the soup is generally given the name of 
that vegetable, as corn soup, pea soup, bean soup, etc., 
and when a variety of vegetables is cooked with, or 
added to, a stock of any kind the soup is known simply 
as vegetable soup. v 

It is well to recognize this distinction, and to remem- 
ber that some vegetables affiliate or harmonize more per- 
fectly than others with certain meat flavors, so as to be 



112 The Art of Cookery. 

able to select only such as are appropriate in each case. 
As a general rule vegetables delicate in flavor — such as 
corn, celery, peas, salsify, cauliflower, and okra — should 
be served in veal or chicken broth in preference to the 
broth of beef or mutton, while those more pronounced 
in flavor — such as carrots, onions, turnips, tomatoes, 
beans, and cabbage — should be served with broths of the 
latter in preference to broths of the former meats. 

When vegetables of high flavor are used in beef or 
mutton broth, it is always admissible to use also those of 
delicate flavor, if desired ; but delicately flavored vege- 
tables should not be served in a high-flavored broth, or 
mingled with stronger flavored vegetables in the prep- 
aration of a soup wherein the delicate flavored vegetables 
are to predominate. Bean soup, pea soup, tomato soup, 
and various other vegetable soups where a single vege- 
table is used in such abundance as to give its name legiti- 
mately to the soup, may still have used in the prepara- 
tion of any of them vegetables, herbs, or spices calculated 
to stimulate or develop the flavor of the main vegetable, 
or to modify or counteract some undesirable flavor it 
may possess. In this way onion, cloves, and meat juices 
render tomato more palatable when served as a soup, a 
puree, or a sauce. For a similar reason a cup of sweet 
corn is a great improvement to a pur^e of beans, supply- 
ing it with sweetness and flavor and thereby enriching 
the flavor of the beans. And, in like manner, a sprig of 
mint cooked with dried peas, or with green peas that are 
so mature as to have lost most of their original taste, 
will obscure their rankness and frequently give them 
quite a fresh and spicy flavor ; and a slice of breakfast 



Soup - Making. 113 



bacon added judiciously to a soup or puree of peas or 
beans will impart a very desirable piquancy, and greatly 
improve the rank or heavy natural flavor of the vege- 
table. 

Corn Soup. — To four cups of veal or chicken broth 
add one cup of tender sweet corn. Simmer fifteen min- 
utes, or until cooked, season to taste, and serve. 

Pea Soup. — Cook one cup of green peas half an hour, 
or until tender, in water enough to just cover them, then 
add four cups of veal or chicken broth, heat to boiling 
point, season to taste, and serve. 

Tomato Soup No. i. — To four cups of beef stock add 
one cup of fresh tomatoes, peeled and cut in small pieces, 
one tablespoonful of minced onion, and two cloves. 
Simmer fifteen minutes, season to taste, and serve. 

Okra Soup No. i. — To four cups of chicken, veal, or 
beef broth add one cup of okra, cut in small pieces. 
Simmer until cooked, season to taste, and serve. 

Salsify Soup. — To four cups of any simple broth add 
one cup of thinly sliced salsify. Simmer fifteen minutes, 
or until cooked, season to taste, and serve. 

Rice Soup. — To four cups of chicken, veal, or mutton 
broth add one cup of boiled rice, heat to boiling point, 
season, and serve. 

Hominy Soup. — To four cups of beef broth add one 
cup of well-boiled hominy. Heat to boiling point, 
season, and serve. 

Barley Soup. — To four cups of beef, mutton, or 
mixed soup stock add one cup of well-cooked barley. 
Simmer five minutes, season to taste, and serve. 

Macaroni Soup. — To four cups of chicken, veal, or 



114 "^^^ ^'^i ^f Cookery. 

beef broth add one cup of cooked macaroni. Simmer 
five minutes, season, and serve. 

Noodle Soup. — To four cups of chicken or veal broth 
add one cup of noodles that have been boiled for twenty- 
minutes in salted water. Simmer five minutes, season, 
and serve. Italian paste cut in fancy forms can be used, 
if preferred. 

Vegetable Soup No. i. — To four cups of chicken or 
veal stock add one cup of thinly sliced salsify, half a cup 
of corn, either canned or cut from the cob, and a tea- 
spoonful of minced parsley. Simmer until the vegetables 
are cooked, then add a cup of sweet cream, season to 
taste, and serve. 

Vegetable Soup No. 2. — Cook half a cup each of 
carrots, turnips, and onions chopped fine. Add four 
cups of beef stock, half a cup of tomato, and one table- 
spoonful of minced parsley. Simmer fifteen minutes, 
season to taste, and serve. 

Vegetable Soup No. 3. — Cook half a cup each of 
carrots, turnips, celery, and onions. Add four cups of 
mutton broth or compound stock, half a cup of toma- 
toes, and one cup of cooked barley. Simmer fifteen 
minutes, season to taste, and serve. 

Vegetable Soup No. 4. — To four cups of chicken, 
veal, or beef stock add half a cup each of cooked peas, 
beans, corn, tomatoes, and celery. Simmer fifteen 
minutes, season to taste, and serve. 

Okra Soup No. 2. — To four cups of chicken or veal 
broth add one cup of sliced or canned okra and half a 
cup each of lima beans and sweet corn cooked. Sim- 
mer fifteen minutes, season, and serve. 



Soup- Making. 115 



Okra Soup No. 3. — To four cups of mixed stock add 
one cup of okra cut in pieces, and half a cup each of 
cooked string beans, corn, peas, and tomatoes. Sim- 
mer fifteen minutes, season to taste, and serve. 

Ox-tail Soup. — Cut an ox- tail in small pieces, also a 
medium-sized onion. Brown in clarified butter. Put in 
a sauce-pan, add two cups of water, six cups of either 
simple or compound stock, and a medium-sized carrot, 
cut in small pieces. Simmer two hours, or until the ox- 
tail is cooked. Remove the grease, add a cupful of 
cooked barley, and half a cupful of cooked tomato. 
Simmer fifteen minutes, season to taste, and serve. 

CLASS 4. MIXED SOUPS. 

White soups are perhaps the most delicate variety of 
mixed soups. In their preparation a portion of cream 
or milk is used, and they are known as ' ' Cream of Cel- 
ery, " " Cream of Asparagus, ' ' etc. Soups made thick 
with vegetables rubbed through a sieve, in the prepara- 
tion of which neither cream nor milk is used, are fre- 
quently put down on bills of fare as ' ' creams, ' ' but they 
have no legitimate place among that class of soups — all 
such mixtures are purees. 

Mixed soups, like vegetable soups, may be made in 
almost endless variety, but comparatively few formulas 
are needed to enable one to understand the principles 
that govern their preparation. 

Cream of Celery No. i. — Cook together in a sauce- 
pan until well mixed one tablespoonful of butter and two 
tablespoonfuls of flour, add four cups of celery stock, 
and simmer five minutes. Pour in a cup of sweet 



ii6 The Art of Cookery. 

cream, heat to boiling point, season to taste, and serve. 

Cream of Celery No. 2. — Cook together in a sauce- 
pan one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls 
of flour. Add two cups of celery stock and two cups 
of chicken stock, and simmer five minutes. Add a cup 
of sweet cream, heat to boiling point, season to taste, 
and serve. 

Cream of Asparagus. — Cook together one table- 
spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Add 
four cups of asparagus stock, and simmer five minutes. 
Pour in a cup of sweet cream, heat to boiling point, 
season to taste, and serve. 

Cream of Salsify. — Cook together in a sauce-pan 
one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of 
flour. Add four cups of salsify stock and simmer five 
minutes. Pour in a cup of sweet cream, season to taste, 
and serve. 

Cream of asparagus and cream of salsify are richer 
in flavor and nutrition when chicken or veal broth is 
mixed with the vegetable stock, in equal proportions ; 
and they can be so prepared when desired. 

Cream of Corn. — Cook together one tablespoonful of 
butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Add one cup of 
water and one cup of tender sweet corn. Simmer fifteen 
minutes, or until the corn is cooked, pour in a cup of sweet 
cream, heat to boiling point, season to taste, and serve. 

Cream of Chicken. — Cook together in a sauce-pan 
one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of 
flour. Add two cups of chicken broth and simmer five 
minutes. Pour in two cups of thin sweet cream, heat 
to boiling point, season to taste, and serve. 



Soup- Making. 117 



This soup may be varied by the addition of a cup of 
celery stock or a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Or the 
flavor of the broth may be varied occasionally by cook- 
ing with the chicken an onion and a blade of mace. 

Cream of Veal. — Cook together in a sauce-pan one 
tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour. 
Add four cups of veal stock and one tablespoonful of 
minced parsley, and simmer five minutes. Pour in one 
cup of sweet cream, heat to boiling point, season to 
taste, and serve. 

Tomato Soup No. 2. — To two cups of celery stock 
add two cups of tomato and a teaspoonful of sugar. 
Simmer an hour and rub through a sieve. Cook to- 
gether one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoon- 
fuls of flour. Add the strained tomato, simmer five 
minutes, season to taste, and serve. 

Transparent Tomato Soup No. i. — To two cups of 
clear soup add two cups of tomato rubbed through a 
sieve, and, when boiling, add one tablespoonful of arrow- 
root or cornstarch, wet with two tablespoonfuls of cold 
water. Simmer five minutes, add a tablespoonful of but- 
ter, season to taste, and serv^e. 

Transparent Tomato Soup No. 2. — To two cups of 
clear soup add two cups of cooked tomato, rubbed 
through a sieve, and one cup of pearled tapioca cooked 
until transparent. Simmer five minutes, season to taste, 
and serve. 

Brown Soup No. i. — Cook together in a sauce-pan, 
until brown, one tablespoonful of butter and two table- 
spoonfuls of flour. Add four cups of mixed soup stock, 
simmer five minutes, season to taste, and serve. 



ii8 The Art of Cookery. 

Brown Soup No. 2. — Cook together in a sauce-pan, 
until brown, one tablespoonful of butter and two table- 
spoonfuls of flour. Add four cups of any kind of stock, 
one cup of strained tomato, one teaspoonful of sugar, 
and half a teaspoonful of curry powder. Simmer ten 
minutes, season to taste, and serve. 

Brown Soup No. 3. — To four cups of mixed soup 
stock add two cups of black beans, boiled and rubbed 
through a sieve, one cup of strained tomato, one table- 
spoonful each of sugar and meat caramel, and one table- 
spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour cooked 
together until brown. Let simmer till smooth, season 
to taste, and serve with a thin slice of lemon in each 
plate. 

Gumbo Soup. — Separate the joints of a chicken, cut 
the breast and back in small pieces, and cook in clarified 
butter until brown. Lift to a sauce-pan and add to the 
chicken six cups of water. Add a tablespoonful of flour 
to the butter in the spider, mix well, pour in two cups of 
water, and let simmer until all the browning on the 
spider is mixed with the water, then strain into the 
sauce-pan containing the chicken. Let simmer an hour, 
add two cups of okra, half a cup of sweet corn, half a 
cup of tomatoes, skinned and cut in small pieces, half a 
cup of string beans cut in dice and parboiled, and one 
tablespoonful of minced onion. Simmer half an hour, 
season to taste, and serve. 

Mock Turtle Soup. — Put a prepared calf s head, after 
removing the brains, into a soup kettle, add a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, cover with boiling water, simmer twenty min- 
utes, drain, and lay in cold water. Tie the brains in a 



Soup- Making. 119 



cloth and cook five minutes in boiling salted water. 
After the head has lain in cold water five minutes, put 
it again in the kettle, add three quarts of compound 
stock, four cloves, ten allspice, and a tablespoonful each 
of sugar and vinegar. Simmer until the meat becomes 
very tender, then drain and set the stock aside to cool. 
Remove the meat from the head, and when perfectly- 
cold cut the best portions into large dice. Cook to- 
gether in a sauce-pan, until brown, two tablespoonfuls 
each of butter and flour, add the stock from the head — 
having first removed the grease — the meat cut in dice, 
the brains cut in small pieces, the yolks of a dozen hard- 
boiled eggs, the juice of a lemon, half a teaspoonful of 
grated lemon peel, a fourth of a teaspoonful of grated 
nutmeg, ten drops extract of ginger, and a tablespoon- 
ful of sugar caramel. Simmer five minutes, season to 
taste, and serve. 

A thin slice of lemon may be served in each plate ; 
and, if desired, force meat balls may be added to the in- 
gredients of the soup. Two pairs of calves' feet may 
be used in place of a calf's head. 

Green Turtle Soup. — Let the turtle bleed several 
hours with its head hanging downward, then divide the 
shells, and remove the entrails. Clean the fins and 
fleshy parts, put them in a sauce-pan, cover with water, 
and simmer until the shells of the fins detach themselves. 
Drain, cut in small pieces, put in a sauce-pan with six 
cups of compound stock, simmer gently three hours, or 
until cooked, then add three hard-boiled eggs, chopped, 
two cups of Brown Sauce No. i, the juice of a lemon, 
the grated peel of half a lemon, a quarter of a grated 



I20 The Art of Cookery. 

nutmeg, and ten drops extract of ginger. Simmer fivt 
minutes, season to taste, and serve. 

Clam Chowder. — Cut a quarter of a pound of salt 
pork into thin sHces. Divide the sHces into strips and 
saut6 in a spider until brown and crisp. Put the browned 
pork into a sauce-pan and add to it a minced onion and 
a tablespoonful of butter. Chop two dozen clams toler- 
ably fine. Pare and cut in dice a quart of potatoes. 
Skin and cut in pieces a pint of tomatoes. Break into 
pieces three or four pilot biscuit. To the pork and 
onion add these things in alternate layers. Season to 
taste with salt and pepper. Cover with hot water. Put 
a tight-fitting lid on the sauce-pan, and simmer gently 
for half an hour, or until the potato is cooked. Add 
two cups of hot cream or milk and serve. 

Fish Chowder. — Prepare fresh codfish by removing 
the skin and bones and cutting the fish in pieces about 
an inch square. Follow the directions given for making 
clam chowder, using, in place of the clams, four cups of 
the prepared codfish. Codfish makes the finest fish 
chowder, but other fish can be used, if desired. 

Worcestershire or other fish sauce may be served with 
either fish or clam chowder. 

BISQUES. 

Among soups the bisques hold a place about midway 
between creams and purees. The creams are smoother 
than either the bisques or purees. In consistency the 
bisques are thicker than the creams but thinner than the 
purees. 

Bisque of Tomato. — Prepare a Tomato Soup No. 2, 



Soup- Making. 121 



add a cup of sweet cream and a pinch of soda, and 
serve immediately. 

Bisque of Lobster. — To two cups of boiled lobster, 
freed from bits of shell, add half a cup of tomato and 
two cups of compound stock. Simmer fifteen minutes, 
let cool, pound, if necessary, and rub through a sieve. 
Cook together one tablespoonful of butter and two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, add the strained lobster, simmer five 
minutes, pour in two cups of cream, heat to boiling 
point, season to taste, and serve. 

Bisque of Clams. — Simmer two dozen clams in their 
own juice about five minutes and drain the liquor from 
them into a bowl. Chop the clams fine, or pound them 
in a mortar, mix with the liquor, and rub through a 
sieve. Cook together in a sauce-pan two tablespoonfuls 
each of butter and flour, add the strained clams and 
two cups of milk, and heat to boiling point. Stir the 
mixture while heating, season to taste, and serve. 

Bisque of Oysters. — Bisque of oysters may be pre- 
pared like bisque of clams. In either case one table- 
spoonful of butter may be omitted, and a cup of cream 
substituted for the cup of milk. 

PUREES. 

No matter how much of a vegetable is used for thick- 
ening a pur6e a small quantity of arrow-root, corn- 
starch, or flour should be used to hold the vegetable in 
solution and make the soup smooth. And when the 
vegetable is delicate in flavor it should be cooked in a 
small quantity of water and all the water be used in 
making the puree. 



122 The Art of Cookery. 

Puree of Peas. — Cook together one tablespoonful of 
butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add two cups of 
peas cooked very tender, in just enough water to cover 
them, and rubbed through a sieve, also the water in 
which the peas cooked, and two cups of veal or chicken 
broth. Let simmer ten minutes, season, and serve. 

Puree of Tomato No. i. — Cook together one table- 
spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
two cups of cooked tomato, rubbed through a sieve, and 
two cups of veal or chicken broth. Let simmer five 
minutes, pour in a cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling 
point, season to taste, and serve. 

Puree of Tomato No. 2. — To two cups of compound 
soup stock add two cups of cooked tomato strained 
through a sieve, one tablespoonful of sugar caramel, and 
one tablespoonful of arrow-root or cornstarch, mixed 
with two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Let simmer five 
minutes, add a tablespoonful of butter, season, and 
serve. 

Puree of Tomato No. 3. — Cook together one table- 
spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
three cups of cooked tomato rubbed through a sieve, 
simmer five minutes, pour in a cup of cream, bring to 
boiling point, season to taste, add a quarter of a tea- 
spoonful of soda, and serve. 

Puree of Potato. — Cook together one tablespoonful 
of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add two cups 
of boiled potato and one cup of boiled onion rubbed 
through a sieve, and two cups of hot milk. Let sim- 
mer five minutes, pour in a cup of cream, bring to boil- 
ing point, season to taste, and serve. 



Soup- Making. 123 



Onions, if liked, may be used in larger proportion in 
this pur^e. A desirable change may also be had by 
frying the onions in clarified butter until brown, adding 
a little water, and stewing until very tender, before 
rubbing through the sieve. And when the onions are 
fried in this manner, a simple broth of any kind may be 
used in place of milk or cream, with very satisfactory 
results. 

Puree of Beans No. i. — Cook together one table- 
spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
two cups of any simple stock, and two cups of well- 
cooked beans, rubbed through a sieve. Simmer five 
minutes, season, and serve. 

Puree of Beans No. 2. — Cook together one table- 
spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
one cup of sweet milk and two cups of lima beans stewed 
and rubbed through a sieve. Simmer five minutes, 
pour in a cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling point, 
season to taste, and serve. 

Puree of Beans No. 3. — Cut two slices of breakfast 
bacon in small pieces and saute in a spider until a light 
brown, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and when 
browned lightly add two cups of water, and simmer, in 
a covered sauce-pan, fifteen minutes. Strain, add two 
cups of cooked beans rubbed through a sieve, simmer 
five minutes, season to taste, and, just before serving, 
add a tablespoonful of tomato catsup. 

Puree of Asparagus. — Cook together a tablespoonful 
of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add one cup 
of sweet milk and two cups of tender asparagus, cooked 
and rubbed through a sieve. Let simmer five minutes, 



124 The Art of Cookery. 

pour in a cup of cream, bring to boiling point, season, 
and serve. 

Any simple broth may be used in place of milk and 
cream in making this puree. 

Puree of Spinach. — Cook together one tablespoonful 
of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add one cup 
of sweet milk and two cups of cooked spinach rubbed 
through a sieve. Let simmer five minutes, pour in a 
cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling point, season to 
taste, and serve. 

Any simple broth may be used in place of milk and 
cream in this puree. 

Puree of Salsify. — Cook together one tablespoonful 
of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add one cup 
of sweet milk and two cups of salsify cooked and rubbed 
through a sieve. Let simmer five minutes, pour in a 
cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling point, season to 
taste, and serve. 

Chicken or veal broth may be used in place of milk 
and cream in this pur6e. 

Purees may be made of carrots, turnips, pars- 
nips, beets, and other vegetables in the same way 
they are made of salsify, asparagus, etc. In a similar 
manner they can be made of chicken, game, fish, and 
shell fish — the meat or fish being cooked tender, then 
ground or pounded and rubbed through a sieve. 

Puree of Chestnuts. — Blanch two cups of hulled 
chestnuts, put them in two cups of boiling water slightly 
salted, cook until tender, then rub through a sieve. Put 
into a sauce-pan with two cups of chicken or veal stock, 
thicken with one tablespoonful of butter and two table- 



Soup- Making. 125 



spoonfuls of flour cooked together, add a teaspoonful of 
sugar, let simmer five minutes, season to taste, and 
serve. 

Puree of Lentils. — In six cups of cold water 
cook a quart of lentils, a slice of lean ham, the skeleton 
of a roast chicken or other fowl, an onion, and half a 
dozen roots of celery. Strain the broth into a sauce- 
pan, rub the lentils through a sieve, add them to the 
broth, thicken with a tablespoonful of butter and two 
tablespoonfuls of flour cooked together, let simmer five 
minutes, season, and serve. 

A simpler puree of lentils may be made by cooking 
the lentils in salted water, rubbing them through a sieve, 
mixing them with the water in which they were cooked, 
and then thickening the mixture with butter and flour. 

Puree of Sorrel. — Boil a quart of sorrel until tender, 
then drain and rub through a sieve. Cook together 
a tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
add to it the sorrel and four cups of chicken, veal, or 
beef broth. Let simmer five minutes, season to taste, 
and serve. 

A cup of sweet cream may be added, if liked, just be- 
fore the puree is taken from the fire. 



CHAPTER XL 

MEAT SAUCES. 

The principles involved in making- meat sauces are 
similar to those involved in making many soups ; and 
the relation between the two subjects is so intimate that 
from quite a number of sauces — when properly prepared 
— excellent soups can be made by simply adding water 
and seasoning. 

A sauce is a liquid, semi-liquid, or stiff mixture com- 
posed of oil, butter, cream, flour, eggs, fish, shell fish, 
game, poultry, meat, vegetables, and fruits or fruit ex- 
tracts, flavored and seasoned with herbs, spices, and 
condiments. The mission of a sauce is to improve or 
render more appetizing the dish with which it is served ; 
and when needed for such purpose it should be chosen 
with that object in view. Mixtures, denominated sauces, 
are too frequently and too indiscriminately served. A 
sauce that is inaptly chosen, and is unsuitable for the 
dish with which it is served, detracts from, instead of im- 
proving, the flavor of the dish. And a sauce served 
with a dish when it is not needed is simply an imperti- 
nence. 

A knowledge of these facts should lead to a strict ob- 
servance of the following rules : ist. All foods of deli- 
cate flavors when freshly cooked are not, except in rare 

cases, improved by being served with made sauces ; 2d, 

-126 



Meat Sauces. 127 



Pungent and highly flavored sauces should be served 
with foods that lack flavor, or with those the flavor of 
which is obtrusive — so they may supply flavor in the 
former case and modify it in the latter. 

To call sauces, soups, and made dishes by arbitrary 
names that give no idea of their component parts is con- 
fusing and misleading to the average reader. Hence 
the name given to each sauce in the following list is that 
which best indicates its constituents and character. 

Parsley Butter No. i. — To one tablespoonful of but- 
ter add a teaspoonful of minced parsley and mix well. 
Season and serve. 

Parsley Butter No. 2. — Prepare as above and add 
a teaspoonful of lemon juice. 

Brown Butter No. i. — Cook in a small sauce-pan, 
until brown, two tablespoonfuls of butter, add a teaspoon- 
ful of lemon juice or vinegar, season, and serve on 
boiled fish, oysters, tripe, calf's brains, etc. 

Brown Butter No. 2. — Make like Brown Butter No. 
I, then add a tablespoonful of onion juice or grated 
onion, a teaspoonful of sugar, and half a teaspoonful of 
mustard. Season and serve. 

Brown Butter No. 3. — Cook in a small sauce-pan 
two tablespoonfuls of butter until brown, add one table- 
spoonful each of vinegar and Worcestershire sauce, 
season, and serve. Tomato catsup may be used in place 
of Worcestershire sauce. 

Drawn Butter. — Cook together until well mixed one 
tablespoonful each of butter and flour, add one cup of 
water or broth, simmer five minutes, then add another 
tablespoonful of butter. Season and serve. 



128 The Art of Cookeiy. 



Egg Sauce. — To a cup of drawn butter add a hard- 
boiled ^^% sliced or minced, and serve. 

Mushroom Sauce. — Cook together, until a light 
brown color, two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, 
add a can of button mushrooms, with the water it con- 
tains, and a cupful of water or broth. Simmer five min- 
utes, stirring meanwhile, season, and serve. The flavor 
of the mushroom is more distinct and pronounced if the 
sauce is seasoned only with salt and mixed pepper. If 
broth is used in the preparation of mushroom sauce in- 
stead of water, it should be the broth of such meat as 
the sauce is to be served with — for instance, chicken 
broth when to be served with chicken, beef broth when 
to be served with beef, etc. 

Fresh Mushroom Sauce. — Put in a granite-ware or 
porcelain-lined sauce-pan two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
When hot add two cups of fresh, prepared mushrooms, 
cover closely, and cook briskly two or three minutes. 
Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve with 
broiled beefsteak, birds, or sweetbreads. 

Brown Sauce No. i. — Cook together until brown two 
tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add two cups of 
water from the roasting pan, after it has been strained and 
skimmed of grease, and simmer five minutes. Serve 
with roast beef, mutton, veal, pork, turkey, chicken, etc. 

Brown Sauce No. 2. — Cook together until brown two 
tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add two cups of 
soup stock, or water from the roasting pan, half a cup 
of strained tomato, and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. 
Simmer five minutes, season with salt and mixed pep- 
per, and serve. 



Meat Sauces. 129 



Brown Sauce No. 3. — Saute, in clarified butter or 
drippings, a medium-sized onion, carrot, and tomato, 
until a light brown. Put them in a sauce-pan with 
three cloves, four allspice, some roots and trimmings 
of celery, two or three sprigs of parsley, a slice of sweet 
turnip, a small bay leaf, a bit of mace, and a pinch of 
thyme or other sweet herb. Add four cups of broth 
or mixed stock, cover closely, and simmer gently for 
two hours. Strain out the vegetables and herbs, re- 
move the grease, and add to the broth a tablespoonful 
each of glaze, or meat extract, sugar caramel, Worces- 
tershire sauce, and walnut catsup, or Chili or Chutney 
sauce. Thicken with two tablespoonfuls each of butter 
and flour cooked together until brown, season to taste, 
and serve. 

Sauce Piquant No. i. — To Brown Butter No. i add 
a tablespoonful of mixed pickle chopped fine, heat, 
season, and serve. 

Sauce Piquant No. 2. — Cook together until brown 
one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, add half a 
cup of strained tomato and two cups of soup stock, or 
water from the roasting pan. Simmer five minutes, add 
half a cup of mixed pickles, chopped fine, heat to boil- 
ing point, season, and serve. 

Jelly Sauce No. i. — Brown two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, add two tablespoonfuls of currant or other acid 
jelly, cook till melted and hot, season with salt and 
mixed pepper, and serve with venison steaks, mutton 
chops, or broiled birds. 

Jelly Sauce No. 2. — To two cups of brown sauce add 
one cup of currant jelly, heat till dissolved and boiling, 



130 The Art of Cookery. 

season to taste, and serve with roast venison, mutton, 
or wild ducks. 

Jelly Sauce No. 3. — Cook together in a sauce-pan 
two tablespoonfuls of butter and one tablespoonful of 
flour until brown, add two tablespoonfuls of currant, 
cranberry, or other acid jelly, one tablespoonful of lemon 
juice or vinegar, quarter of a teaspoonful each of mus- 
tard flour, and grated lemon peel, half as much mace 
or nutmeg, a dozen olives, chopped fine, and a cup of 
broth or water from the roasting pan. Simmer five 
minutes, season, and serve with roast duck, venison, or 
mutton — or use in re-warming cold roast duck, venison, 
or mutton. 

Parsley Sauce No. i. — Cook together a tablespoon- 
ful each of butter and flour, add a cup of chicken broth 
and a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Simmer five min- 
utes, add another tablespoonful of butter, season, and 
serve with boiled chicken. 

Parsley Sauce No. 2. — Make as before directed, and 
just before serving add a hard-boiled ^'gg chopped fine. 

Caper Sauce No. i. — Cook together a tablespoonful 
each of butter and flour, add one cup of lamb broth, 
one tablespoonful of capers, and one hard-boiled ^g% 
chopped fine. Simmer five minutes, add another table- 
spoonful of butter, season, and serve with boiled lamb. 

Caper Sauce No. 2. — To the ingredients used in the 
last formula add a tablespoonful of minced parsley and a 
tablespoonful of vinegar from the capers. Use mutton 
instead of lamb broth and serve with boiled mutton. 

Fish Sauce. — Cook together a tablespoonful each of 
butter and flour, add one cup of water and a tablespoon- 



Meat Sauces. 131 



ful of minced parsley. Simmer five minutes, add an- 
other tablespoonful of butter, a tablespoonful each of 
minced onion and lemon juice, and, if liked, one of 
bottled fish sauce. Season and serve with boiled or 
steamed fish. 

Oyster Sauce. — To one cup of drawn butter made 
with water add a dozen medium-sized oysters and simmer 
five minutes, or until the thin edges wrinkle and sepa- 
rate. Season and serve with boiled codfish, boiled 
turkey, capon, or chicken. 

Celery Sauce — To one cup of drawn butter made 
with celery stock add one cup of white celery, cut in 
dice, and cooked tender. Simmer five minutes, season, 
and serve with boiled or roasted turkey, chicken, or 
veal. 

Salsify Sauce. — To one cup of drawn butter made 
with salsify stock add one cup of salsify, cut in small 
pieces and cooked until tender. Season and serve in 
place of oyster sauce. 

WHITE SAUCES. 

White sauces resemble drawn butter sauces, but differ 
from them in one particular — they invariably contain 
milk or cream. White sauces may be made distinctive 
and unlike each other by the use of different flavorings. 
But the flavoring should always be suited to the food 
with which the sauce is to be served, and should not 
darken the color of the sauce. Milk may be used in 
place of cream in making white sauces, but in such cases 
an additional spoonful of butter should be added to give 
richness to the sauce. White sauces made with milk or 



132 The Art of Cookery. 

cream may be used as a substitute for drawn butter, for 
^%%t oyster, celery, or salsify sauce. 

Bread Sauce No. i. — To one cup of sifted bread 
crumbs add half a cup of finely minced onion and 
one cup of sweet milk. Simmer ten minutes, add a 
cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling point, season, and 
serve. 

Bread Sauce No. 2. — To one cup of sifted bread 
crumbs add one cup of celery broth, simmer ten min- 
utes, add one cup of cream and one cup of cooked 
celery, bring to boiling point, season, and serve. 

White Sauce No. i. — Cook together until well mixed 
one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, add a cup of 
sweet cream, simmer five minutes, season, and serve. 

White Sauce No. 2. — Cook together until well mixed 
two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add a cup 
of cream, simmer five minutes, season, and serve. 

White Sauce No. 3. — Cook together two tablespoon- 
fuls each of butter and flour, add one cup of white soup 
stock, simmer five minutes, add one cup of sweet cream, 
heat to boiling point, season, and serve. 

White Sauce No. 4 — Cook together until well mixed 
one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of 
flour, add a cup of sweet cream, simmer five minutes, 
season, and serve. 

Shrimp Sauce. — To one cup of White Sauce No. i 
add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and two dozen 
shrimps that have been cooked and prepared, heat to 
boiling point, season, and serve. 

This sauce may be varied occasionally by adding to it 
a teaspoonful of anchovy paste. 



Meat Sauces, 133 



Lobster Sauce No. i. — To one cup of White Sauce 
No. I add one cup of cooked lobster, picked into small 
pieces, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, and a salt 
spoonful of mustard. Heat to boiling point, season, 
and serve. 

The coral of the lobster mashed to a smooth paste 
with a little butter and added to this sauce improves it. 

Lobster Sauce No. 2. — To one cup of White Sauce 
No. I add half a cup of strained cooked tomato and 
one cup of cooked lobster meat cut in small pieces, or 
pounded and rubbed through a sieve, heat to boiling 
point, season, and serve. 

Anchovy Sauce. — To one cup of White Sauce No. i 
add a tablespoonful each of lemon juice and anchovy 
paste, heat to boiling point, season, and serve. 

Egg, parsley, caper, lobster, shrimp, and anchovy 
sauce are all used as sauces for boiled fish, and are all 
excellent, but the most popular of all fish sauces is : 

Sauce Hollandaise No. i. — To one cup of White 
Sauce No. i add a quarter of a teaspoonful of ground 
mace, a teaspoonful of onion juice, and a tablespoonful of 
lemon juice or vinegar. Bring to boiling point, then 
stir in the yolks of three eggs, well beaten, with a table- 
spoonful of water. Add the eggs slowly and continue 
the cooking, after the ^^% is all in, for about a minute. 
Remove from the fire, add a tablespoonful of butter, 
season, and serve. 

Sauce Hollandaise No. 2. — Prepare as in last formula, 
and add the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff, after remov- 
ing the sauce from the fire. 

Sauce Tartare. — To one cup of mayonnaise dressing 



134 "^^^ ^^^ ^f Cookery. 

seasoned with mixed seasoning, add a teaspoonful of 
French mustard and a tablespoonful each of pickled 
onions, capers, water cress, and parsley minced fine be- 
fore measuring, also a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. 
Mix all well together and serve. 

Glaze. — Put a quart of simple or compound stock into 
a granite-ware or porcelain-lined sauce-pan, and cook 
very slowly until as thick as syrup and light brown in 
color. Let cool and use. 

Tomato Sauce No. i. — Simmer gently for an hour 
four medium-sized tomatoes cut in slices, one tablespoon- 
ful of minced onion, and three cloves. Rub through a 
sieve, add a cup of water with which a teaspoonful of 
cornstarch is mixed, and a teaspoonful of sugar. Sim- 
mer five minutes, add a tablespoonful of butter, season, 
and serve. 

This sauce is especially appropriate with boiled tongue, 
ham, or corned beef 

Tomato Sauce No. 2. — Cook together one table- 
spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
one cup of cooked, strained tomato, and one cup of 
compound stock. Simmer five minutes, season, and 
serve. 

Tomato Sauce No. 3. — Cook together one table- 
spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
one cup of strained tomato, and one cup of celery or 
chicken broth. Simmer five minutes, season, and 
serve. 

This is an appropriate sauce for chicken croquettes, 
veal cutlets, and fried or sauted sweetbreads. 

Tomato Sauce No. 4. — Cook together one table- 



Meat Sauces. 135 



spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
one cup of strained tomato, simmer five minutes, add 
one cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling point, season 
to taste, and serve. 

This sauce can be served appropriately with either 
croquettes or cutlets of chicken, sweetbreads, lobster, 
or fish. 

Tomato Sauce No. 5. — Cook together one table- 
spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour until 
brown, add one cup of strained tomato, one cup of 
mixed stock, and a tablespoonful each of sugar caramel 
and glaze, or extract of beef Simmer five minutes, 
season to taste, and serve. 

This is an appropriate sauce to serve with mutton 
chops, Hamburg steak, or croquettes of beef, veal, or 
mutton. 



CHAPTER XII. 

FRYING. 

The average individual entertains the idea that when 
meat, vegetables, and other edibles are cooked in grease 
they are fried. And, with that idea in mind, writers and 
lecturers on cookery and hygiene have for a good many 
years been denouncing fried food and heaping anathemas 
upon the frying pan. There is no doubt that food of 
any kind that becomes saturated with grease while being 
cooked is unhealthful and productive of disease. But it 
does not, therefore, follow that articles of food properly 
fried are less healthful than the same articles cooked in 
any other manner. And until it is proven that they are, 
it is unjust to hold the frying pan responsible for the 
evils that arise from its misuse, or are incident to its 
abuse, by ignorant or unskilled cooks. Are not the 
under-baked rolls, the leathery pan-cakes, the soggy 
boiled vegetables, the wretchedly roasted meats, the half- 
broiled fish, the insipid stewed fruit, the smoky-tasting 
tea, the sloppy coffee, and the other badly-cooked 
articles that are served every day at a majority of tables 
equally as detrimental to health as the denounced prod- 
ucts of the frying pan ? And would it not be wiser to 
endeavor to improve the methods, rather than to at- 
tempt to abolish the process, of frying ? 

Frying is the cooking of food in oil or fat, and is one 

136 



Frying. 137 

of the most convenient and appetizing methods of pre- 
paring many articles of diet. But for the performance 
of the process three things should be carefully consid- 
ered : I St, the temperature of the oil or fat ; 2d, the 
quantity of grease to be used ; 3d, the form or shape of 
the article to be fried. 

In order to fry properly the grease must be hot 
enough to instantly sear the surface of the article put 
into it. This instantaneous searing or cooking of the 
surface retains the juices and flavors inside the article 
being cooked, and prevents the absorption of grease. 
Butter cannot be used for frying, as it will burn before 
reaching a sufficiently high temperature to cook the food. 
And olive oil or cotton-seed oil can be heated to a much 
higher temperature without burning than lard or beef 
drippings. The temperature of grease should always 
be tested before there is danger of its burning, by drop- 
ping a slice of raw potato into it. As soon as the po- 
tato becomes brown the grease is hot enough for frying 
most things. The quantity of grease used should be 
sufficient to entirely submerge the article put into it. 
The most desirable shape or form for articles of food 
that are to be fried, if reference is had only to perfect 
frying, is the spherical or round, as articles of that shape 
can touch each other at but few points, while nearly 
their entire surface is at once exposed to the direct action 
of the hot grease. Thin slices of potato, if the potato 
is sliced lengthwise, given a twist and dropped into ice 
water, will fry more perfectly than without the twist. 
All articles of food that have been wet should be freed 
from water by shaking in a sieve or towel before they 



138 The Art of Cookery, 

are put to fry. Only a few articles should be put into 
the fat at a time, lest the heat of the grease be reduced 
below the frying temperature. A frying basket is con- 
venient if properly used. But it should not be filled 
with food and lowered into the frying kettle unless the 
food be of a delicate nature, like oysters and croquettes ; 
and then the basket should be lowered into the hot 
grease very slowly. As a general rule the basket should 
be lowered into the grease empty, and the articles to be 
fried then put into it one by one. 

Fried food may be divided into three classes : ist, 
That class of food which requires no special protection 
to prevent the absorption of the grease. To this class 
belong potatoes, doughnuts, fritters, etc. 2d, That 
class which needs a special protection called a grease- 
proof coating. To this class belong chicken, fish, chops, 
etc. 3d, That class which is very soft or moist, or of 
perfectly smooth surface, and which, on account of one 
or more of these conditions, must be given all the pro- 
tection possible. Articles of this class of food should 
be wrapped in a mixture of equal parts of wheat flour 
and corn-meal, in order that their surfaces may be 
rendered dry and rough before applying a coating of &%% 
batter. To this class belong oysters, scollops, cro- 
quettes, etc. 

Fried Potatoes. — Prepare the potatoes in any form 
desired. Let them soak in cold water until wanted for 
frying. Heat the grease in the frying kettle. Test its 
temperature with a slice of potato, and if hot enough 
lower the frying basket into it, and having drained the 
potatoes iJD a sieve and shaken them in a towel to free 



Frying. 139 

them of moisture, add a few slices at a time until the 
bottom of the basket is covered. The rapidity with 
which the potatoes may be dropped into the basket must 
be determined by the appearance of the fat. If the sur- 
face of the grease becomes covered with bubbles, it is 
an indication that its temperature is too low for perfect 
frying. Wait until the bubbles disappear before adding 
more potatoes. This test of temperature will apply to 
the frying of all articles. As soon as the potatoes are 
sufficiently cooked lift the basket from the grease, shake 
it over the kettle to free it and its contents from grease, 
dust the potatoes with salt and pepper, and pour into a 
warm dish lined with several folds of cheese-cloth. 
Serve on a napkin in a platter. 

Fried Apples. — Wash and wipe the apples. Remove 
the blossom ends and all imperfections of the skin. 
Slice an eighth of an inch in thickness, cover the bot- 
tom of the frying basket with these slices, and fry in hot 
grease until a light brown color. Shake the basket to 
free the apples from grease, and serve with either broiled 
or sauted ham, breakfast bacon, or pork chops. 

Fried Onions. — Slice onions, after removing the dry 
skins, about a sixteenth of an inch in thickness. Cover 
the bottom of the frying basket with these slices and fry 
in hot grease until a rich brown color. Shake the bas- 
ket to free them of grease, and dust lightly with salt and 
pepper. Serve with beefsteak, or with any kind of 
chops. 

Fried Doughnuts. — Sift three pints of flour into a 
mixing bowl. Make a well in the center into which put 
half a pint of sugar, a quarter of a pint of sour milk, 



140 The Art of Cookery, 

two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of 
soda, and an eighth of a nutmeg, grated. Mix these in- 
gredients well together, and work in the flour gradually 
until a dough is formed sufficiently stiff to be rolled 
upon a well-floured board into a sheet half an inch in 
thickness. Cut in any shape desired, fry in hot grease, 
and drain on cheese-cloth. When cold dust with pul- 
verized sugar. Sweet milk and a heaping teaspoonful of 
baking powder can be used in place of sour milk and 
soda. 

Fried Corn Muflins — Take one cup of corn-meal, 
half a cup of flour, two cups of boiling sweet milk, one 
teaspoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, two eggs. 

Scald the meal with the boiling milk and let it stand 
until cold, then add the eggs unbeaten and sift in the 
flour lightly. Fry in spoonfuls in deep fat. 

Fried Corn-bread — Mix together a pint of corn-meal, 
a teaspoonful of sugar, and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
Pour over the mixture a pint of boiling water, and stir 
into it a teaspoonful of butter. Add gradually half a 
pint of cold milk, and then an unbeaten q.%%. Stir well 
and fry by dropping a spoonful at a time into hot 
grease. Drain on cheese-cloth and serve. 

Plain Fritters — Stir together a pint of flour, half a 
pint of cold water, the yolks of four eggs, two table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of olive oil or 
melted butter, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Beat with 
a Dover beater until very light, then mix in the whites 
of the eggs beaten stiff and fry in hot grease, dropping 
in a tablespoonful at a time. Drain on cheese-cloth, 
dust with pulverized sugar, and serve. Or omit the 



Frying. 14^ 

dusting of sugar, and serve with orange, lemon, rasp- 
berry, or any simple fruit sauce. 

Apple Fritters. — Select smooth, medium-sized, sour 
apples. Pare whole, remove the cores, slice in 
rounds an eighth of an inch in thickness, dip in batter 
prepared as for plain fritters, fry in hot grease until a 
nice brown, drain on cheese-cloth, dust with pulverized 
sugar, and serve. 

Peach Fritters.— Select hard, ripe peaches, separate 
into halves, and remove from the stone. Pare and di- 
vide each half into two slices, not quarters, lengthwise. To 
a batter made as for plain fritters, add a teaspoonful of 
peach extract, dip each slice of peach into the batter, 
fry in hot grease, drain, dust with pulverized sugar, and 

serve. 

Pine-Apple Fritters.— Pare a pine-apple, cut it in 
slices an eighth of an inch thick, and divide the slices 
into quarters. Dip each quarter in batter prepared as 
for plain fritters, fry a light brown in hot grease, drain 
on cheese-cloth, dust with pulverized sugar, and serve. 

Banana Fritters.— Peel the bananas, split in halves 
lengthwise, divide the halves in the middle crosswise, 
dip in batter prepared as for plain fritters, fry brown in 
hot grease, drain on cheese-cloth, dust with pulverized 
sugar, and serve. 

Corn Fritters. — ^To a pint of sweet corn, either canned 
or cut uncooked from the cob, add an even teaspoonful 
of salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper. 
Mix well and stir into a pint of batter prepared as for 
plain fritters. Fry in hot grease, dropping in a table- 
spoonful at a time, drain on cheese-cloth, and serve. 



142 The Art of Cookery. 

Sweetbread Fritters — Soak the sweetbreads in salted 
cold water half an hour. Then put them into slightly- 
salted boiling water, simmer gently until tender, remove 
from the fire, and let cool in the water in which they 
cooked. When cold remove the skin from them, then 
separate into their natural divisions, cut the larger pieces 
in two, so as to render them uniform in size, season 
lightly with salt and pepper, and mix with an equal 
quantity of batter prepared as for plain fritters. Drop 
a tablespoonful of the mixture at a time into hot grease, 
fry until brown, drain on cheese-cloth, and serve. 

Oyster Fritters. — Prepare a batter as for plain frit- 
ters, omitting the sugar, and season to taste with salt and 
pepper. Drain the oysters in a colander. If they are 
large stick a small skewer through the thin edge of each 
oyster, dip into the batter, and fry in hot grease until 
brown. If they are small mix equal quantities of oys- 
ters and batter together, and fry, a tablespoonful at a 
time, in hot grease. Drain on cheese-cloth and serve. 

Nun*s Puffs. — Put a cupful of water in a sauce-pan 
over the fire, add half a cupful, light measure, of butter, 
and when it boils stir in three fourths of a cupful of 
flour, and cook five minutes, stirring constantly with a 
wooden spoon. Remove from the fire, and when cool, 
not cold, stir in, one by one, four eggs. Drop, a tea- 
spoonful at a time, into hot grease, being careful not to 
get the frying kettle too full, as the pufis enlarge very 
much while cooking. Let them remain in the kettle 
about five minutes, drain carefully on cheese-cloth, and 
when cold dust with cinnamon and pulverized sugar. 
Or omit the cinnamon and sugar, make an incision in 



Prying. 143 

each puff, and fill with whipped cream flavored with 
vanilla and sweetened. 

Rice Croquettes. — To a cupful of boiled, drained rice 
add half a cupful of sweet milk, a tablespoonful of sugar, 
and a teaspoonful of butter. Put in a sauce-pan over 
the fire and simmer gently, stirring frequently, until the 
rice has absorbed the milk. Remove and, when slightly 
cooled, flavor with half a teaspoonful of lemon extract, 
add the white of one ^^^^^ unbeaten, fry in hot grease, 
dropping in a spoonful at a time, drain on cheese-cloth, 
and serve with pulverized sugar or with any fruit sauce. 

Hominy Croquettes. — To a cupful of granulated or 
fine hominy, well cooked, add a fourth of a cupful of 
sweet milk, a tablespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
butter, and the unbeaten white of one ^%%. Mix well, 
and fry and serve in the same manner as rice cro- 
quettes. 

Fresh Fish Croquettes — To a cup of any kind of 
cold fresh fish, from which the bones and skin have been 
removed, add half a cup of fine bread crumbs that have 
soaked for half an hour in half a cup of sweet milk, a 
teaspoonful of melted butter, salt and pepper to taste, and 
the unbeaten white of an Q.^g, mix well together, fry by 
the spoonful in hot grease, drain on cheese-cloth, and 
serve with poached eggs or breakfast bacon. 

Lobster Croquettes. — To a cup of picked up lobster 
add half a cup of bread crumbs softened in half a cup 
of sweet milk, salt and pepper to taste, a dust of mus- 
tard, and the unbeaten white of an ^%%. Mix well to- 
gether, fry in spoonfuls in hot fat, drain on cheese-cloth, 
and serve. 



144 '^^^ -^^^ ^f Cookery. 

Shrimp Croquettes. — Prepare like lobster, omitting 
the mustard, and fry and serve in the same manner. 

Codfish Balls. — To a cup of salt codfish, cut in small 
pieces, freed from skin and bone, and well washed in 
cold water, add a cup of raw potato cut also in small 
pieces. Put in a sauce-pan, cover with boiling water, 
and simmer gently until the potato is cooked. Then 
drain, dry off carefully, mash the codfish and potato to- 
gether, add a dust of white pepper, a tablespoonful of 
sweet milk, a teaspoonful of butter, and the unbeaten 
whites of two eggs, or one whole ^%%. Fry in spoon- 
fuls in hot fat, drain on cheese-cloth, and serve with 
poached eggs on toast. 

Chicken Croquettes No. i — To one cup of finely 
chopped chicken, either boiled, stewed, or roasted, add 
half a cup of bread crumbs, softened in half a cup of 
sweet cream, one teaspoonful of melted butter, salt and 
pepper to taste, and the unbeaten white of an ^^'g. 
Mix well together, fry in spoonfuls in hot fat, drain on 
cheese-cloth, and serve in a napkin, garnished with 
lemon points and curled parsley. 

Chicken Croquettes No. 2 — To half a cup of White 
Sauce No. 2 add a cup of cooked chicken, finely hashed, 
a teaspoonful of minced onion, half a teaspoonful of 
minced parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Spread 
on a greased plate to cool, and when cold form into 
croquettes, cover with ^gg batter, roll in crumbs, fry in 
a basket in hot fat, and drain on cheese-cloth. 

Chicken Croquettes No. 3. — To a cup of finely hashed 
cooked chicken add half a cup of finely chopped mush- 
rooms, half a cup of White Sauce No. i, and salt and 



Frying, I45 

pepper to taste. Let cool, form into croquettes, cover 
with ^%% batter, roll in crumbs, fry in a basket in hot 
fat, drain on cheese-cloth, and serve in a napkin, gar- 
nished with cresses or lemon points. 

Chicken Croquettes No. 4. — To a cup of finely hashed 
cooked chicken add half a cup of boiled calf's brains, 
an eighth of a teaspoonful of grated lemon peel, half 
the quantity of nutmeg or mace, and a tablespoonful of 
White Sauce No. i. Season to taste with salt and pep- 
per, form into croquettes, cover with ^<g% batter, roll in 
crumbs, fry in a basket in hot fat, and serve like Chicken 
Croquettes No. i or 2. 

Sweetbread Croquettes. — Prepare the sweetbreads as 
directed for sweetbread fritters and make the croquettes 
like Chicken Croquettes No. i or No. 3. 

Veal Croquettes. — Use boiled, stewed, or roasted 
veal, and follow the directions given for making chicken 
croquettes of either kind. 

Fried Chicken. — Cut the chicken in pieces a suit- 
able size for serving. Lay the pieces, skin side down, 
on a plate or board, dust freely with salt and lightly with 
pepper, cover with ^'g^ batter, roll in cracker crumbs, 
and fry in hot fat until they are a rich brown color and 
can be pierced easily with a fork. Then drain on cheese- 
cloth and serve in a napkin, garnished with cresses, cel- 
ery tips, or curled parsley. 

Fried Prairie Chicken. — Fry and serve prairie chicken 
in all respects like chicken. 

Fried Quail. — Fold back the wings and use small 
wooden skewers to hold the legs in place ; season with 
salt and pepper, dip in ^%% batter, fry in hot fat until a 



146 The Art of Cookery. 

light brown color, drain on cheese-cloth, and serve in a 
napkin, garnished the same as chicken. 

Fried Fish. — Cut fresh fish of any kind in pieces a 
suitable size for serving, and season with salt and pepper. 
Fry and serve the same as chicken. 

Fried Oysters. — Select large oysters, drain on a sieve, 
lay singly on a plate, and season with salt and pepper. 
Lift each oyster by sticking a small skewer through its 
thin edge, dip it in white corn-meal and flour sifted to- 
gether in equal proportions, cover with ^^% batter, then 
with crumbs, fry in a basket in very hot fat, drain on 
cheese-cloth, and serve on a warm platter, garnished 
with lemon points. 

Fried Mush. — Cut cold mush into squares, cubes, or 
oblong pieces a suitable size for serving, cover with flour 
and meal sifted together, dip in ^^^ batter, roll in crumbs, 
fry in a basket in hot fat, until a rich brown color, drain 
on cheese-cloth, and serve in a napkin ; or use to gar- 
nish broiled or fried chicken or fish. 

Fried Veal Chops. — Select rib or loin veal chops an 
inch in thickness, dust lightly with pulverized sugar and 
pepper and more freely with salt, dip in corn-meal and 
flour sifted together, cover with ^g'g batter, roll in 
cracker crumbs, fry in hot fat, drain on cheese-cloth, and 
serve. 

SAUTEING. 

Sauteing, which means cooking by tumbling or toss- 
ing about in a small quantity of hot fat, is a modified 
form of frying, and a very excellent method of cooking 
many articles of food. As in frying, the oils or fats 
which will bear the highest degree of heat are most 



Frying. 147 

perfectly adapted to sauteing. But butter, which will 
burn at a low temperature, may, if clarified, be used alone 
or mixed with lard or drippings quite satisfactorily for 
the purpose. Many things are more palatable when 
sauted than when fried, notably oysters, egg-plant, 
onions, and apples. 

If a pan or griddle is to be used more than once for 
sauteing it should be wiped each time it is used, so as to 
remove all grease and crumbs. The best utensil for 
sauteing is a flat- bottomed steel spider or griddle. 

Clarified Butter. — To clarify butter heat it to boiling 
point, and let simmer gently until the salt settles and a 
frothy scum arises, leaving the oily portions transparent. 
Remove the scum, drain the oil carefully from the salt, 
and the clarified butter is ready for use. Butter in be- 
ing clarified should never be allowed to scorch or become 
brown. 

To Saute Egg-Plant. — Slice the egg-plant in slices 
about a fourth of an inch in thickness. Pare off the 
rind, dust lightly with white pepper and freely, on both 
sides, with flour. Put two tablespoonfuls of clarified 
butter in a spider over a brisk fire, and, as soon as the 
butter is hot, cover the bottom of the spider with the 
prepared slices of egg-plant, brown on the lower side, 
and turn them over. When brown on both sides, if 
the egg-plant is not soft in the center, shove to a cooler 
place on the range and let it finish cooking. Serve on 
a warm platter. 

To Saute Squash. — Summer squash, when young and 
tender, may be saut6d in the same manner as egg-plant 

To Saute Onions. — Remove the dry skins from the 



148 The Art of Cookery. 

onion, and slice the onion in thin sHces crosswise. To 
a pint of sliced onions allow three tablespoonfuls of 
clarified butter. Put the butter in a spider over the fire, 
and when sufficiently hot add the onions. As soon as 
the onions in the lower layer become brown lift them 
with a limber knife from the bottom of the spider, and 
let those not brown take their place. After they are 
brown, if the onions are not cooked enough the spider 
can be covered, shoved to a cooler part of the range, and 
the cooking be continued a few minutes longer. Serve 
on a warm platter, or as a garnish to beefsteak or pork 
chops. 

To Saute Tomatoes. — Select smooth tomatoes of me- 
dium size, wash, wipe, and cut each of them in three 
slices. Dust the slices on both sides with salt, pepper, 
and flour, a little sugar also, if liked, and brown in 
clarified butter over a hot fire. Serve on a warm plat- 
ter, or as a garnish for beefsteak, ham, breakfast bacon, 
pork, mutton, lamb, or veal chops. 

To Saute Mush. — Cut cold mush in sHces a quarter 
of an inch thick, brown on a griddle well greased with 
clarified butter, and serve on a warm platter. 

To Saute Scrapple. — Slice, cook, and serve the same 
as mush. If the scrapple be rich the griddle need not 
be greased. 

To Saute Breakfast Bacon. — Slice thin, remove the 
rind and brown edges, lay upon a hot spider over a 
moderate fire until brown on both sides and crisp. Serve 
as a relish with beefsteak, fresh fish, fish balls, or poached 
eggs. 

To Saute Ham. — Have the slices of ham about a six- 



Frying. 149 

teenth of an inch thick, remove the rind and brown 
edges, lay upon a hot spider or pan over a quick fire un- 
til the under side is brown, then turn the slices and 
brown the other side. Put two or three tablespoonfuls 
of boiling water in the spider, cover it closely so as to 
shut in the steam, shove to the back of the range, and 
let simmer ten minutes. At the end of that time lift the 
slices of ham upon a warm platter, drain the grease from 
the pan, add a small piece of butter, or a spoonful of 
cream, mix with the browning in the pan, pour over the 
ham on the platter, and serve. 

To Saute Potatoes. — Slice cold boiled potatoes in 
slices a sixteenth of an inch in thickness, season to taste 
with salt and pepper, and brown on both sides in clari- 
fied butter. Serve in a warm, covered dish, or as a 
garnish to beefsteak or chops of any kind. 

To Saute Sweet Potatoes. — Boil until soft enough to 
be pierced easily with a fork, remove the skins, slice 
lengthwise, dust lightly with salt, pepper, and sugar, 
and brown in clarified butter in a spider. Or split in 
halves or quarters lengthwise, roll in melted butter, put 
in a dripping pan, and cook in the oven. Serve in a 
warm covered dish, or as a garnish for beefsteak or chops. 

To Saute Apples. — Wash and wipe sour apples, re- 
move the blossom end and all blemishes of skin, slice in 
rounds a sixteenth of an inch thick, dust with flour, and 
cook in clarified butter in a spider till brown on both 
sides. If the slices are not soft when brown, cover the 
spider and let them simmer a few minutes on a cooler 
part cf the range. Serve with broiled ham, breakfast 
bacon, pork chops, or tenderloin. 



150 The Art of Cookery. 

To Saute Bananas. — Peel the bananas, split them in 
halves lengthwise, dust in sugar, roll in melted butter, 
and cook till brown in a spider over the fire, or in a 
roasting pan in a hot oven. 

To Saute Salsify. — Boil the salsify in a small quan- 
tity of water, drain, dry off, and mash. To half a pint 
of mashed salsify add a teaspoonful of butter and season 
to taste with salt and pepper. Form into cakes, cover 
with Q.'g'g batter and cracker crumbs, and brown in clari- 
fied butter. 

To Saute Parsnips. — Boil in a large quantity of water 
until tender, split in halves or in slices, season with salt 
and pepper, and brown in clarified butter ; or mash, 
form into cakes, and cook like salsify. 

To Saute Lamb Chops. — Remove the outer skin 
from the chops, trim them neatly, lay on a smoking 
hot spider, brown the under side, then turn them over 
in the spider. When they are brown on both sides 
drain all the grease from the spider, season to taste with 
salt and pepper, add a small piece of butter and a table- 
spoonful of hot water, cover the spider closely, shove 
back on the range, and let stand for five minutes, then 
serve. Saute mutton chops in the same manner. 

To Saute Veal Chops. — Cut the chops an inch thick 
from the ribs or loin, remove the outer skin, dust lightly 
with pulverized sugar, season with salt and pepper, and 
dredge with flour. Have a spoonful of hot clarified 
butter in a spider over the fire, lay in the chops, brown 
the under side, and turn them over in the spider. When 
brown on both sides, cover the spider closely, shove it 
to the back of the range, let the chops simmer ten min- 



Frying. 151 

utes, then lift them to a warm platter. Add a table- 
spoonful of sweet milk to the gravy in the skillet, stir 
well, and strain over the chops. 

To Saute Pork Chops. — Season with sugar, salt, and 
pepper, the same as veal, and cook in a similar man- 
ner if the chops are lean ; if they are fat, cook like lamb 
chops. 

To Saute Tough Beefsteak. — Prepare, cook, and 
serve like veal chops, omitting the sugar. This method 
of cooking a tough beefsteak will make it tender and 
palatable. 

To Saute Salisbury Steak. — Chop or grind lean 
round steak very fine, form into "cakes, like sausage, 
dust with flour, and brown on both sides in clarified 
butter on a griddle or in a spider, lift to a warm platter, 
and season with salt, pepper, and butter. 

To Saute Hamburg Steak. — To a pint of meat 
chopped or ground as for Salisbury steak add a table- 
spoonful of finely minced onion, or a teaspoonful of 
sage, thyme, or summer savory, form into cakes, and 
cook the same as Salisbury steak. 

Either Salisbury or Hamburg steak may be cooked 
by covering the bottom of a greased spider about half 
an inch thick with the chopped meat, and, when nicely 
browned, folding like an omelet, and turning upon a 
warm platter. 

To Saute Chicken. — Separate the joints of the 
chicken, and cut into pieces a suitable size for serving, 
season with salt and pepper, and brown in the spider in 
clarified butter or the drippings obtained from salt pork 
or breakfast bacon. When nicely browned cover the 



152 The Art of Cookery, 

spider closely, shove to the back of the range, and let 
the chicken simmer ten or fifteen minutes, then lift to a 
warm platter. If gravy be desired, add a spoonful of 
flour to the fat in the spider, mix well, pour in half a 
pint of sweet cream, milk, or water, season to taste with 
salt and pepper, and serve in a tureen. Breakfast 
bacon, or thin, crisp slices of pork, may be served with 
chicken. 

To Saute Prairie Chicken. — Prepare and cook like 
chicken. Currant or grape jelly is suitable to serve 
with prairie chicken, quail, wild duck, and venison. 

Grouse and quail are sauted in the same manner as 
prairie chicken. 

To Saute Scollops. — Pour boiling water over the scol- 
lops and let them remain in it five minutes. Drain and 
dry on a towel. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, roll in 
flour, and saut€ in clarified butter in a spider. 

To Saute Soft-shell Crabs. — Remove the loose shell 
of the crabs and the spongy substance on both sides of 
the upper shell. Sprinkle the crabs with salt and pep- 
per, roll them in flour, and saut6 till nicely brown in a 
little clarified butter in a spider. Soft-shell crabs should 
be browned on both sides. 

To Saute Calf's Brains. — Separate the prepared 
brains into pieces about the size of an oyster, sprinkle 
with salt and pepper, roll in flour, and cook until nicely 
brown on both sides, in a little clarified butter, in a 
spider. 

To Saute Rabbit or Squirrel. — Prepare and cook like 
chicken, but add a little minced parsley to the seasoning. 

To Saute Fish — Remove the head, tail, and fins, also 



Frying, 153 

the bones if desired, cut the fish crosswise in sHces a 
suitable size for serving, season with salt and pepper, 
roll in white corn-meal, or meal and flour mixed, and 
cook in the drippings from breakfast bacon or salt pork. 
Serve the bacon or pork with the fish. As great heat 
as the fish will bear without burning is essential to de- 
velop its finest flavor. Clarified butter can be used in 
place of bacon or pork drippings, if preferred. 

To Saute Oysters. — Drain the oysters in a colander 
or on a sieve, season with salt and pepper, roll in white 
corn-meal or crumbs, and brown quickly in a little clari- 
fied butter in a spider. Serve on a warm platter, gar- 
nished with lemon points. 

To Saute Corn Oysters. — To half a pint of sweet 
corn, cut from the cob or canned, add salt and pepper 
to taste, three tablespoonfuls of sweet cream, one round- 
ing tablespoonful of flour sifted in, and the beaten white 
of an egg. Stir lightly with a fork. Have two table- 
spoonfuls of clarified butter smoking hot in a spider over 
the fire. Put a tablespoonful at a time of the mixture 
in the spider until it is filled, without the spoonfuls 
touching each other, then with a broad-bladed knife or 
a spoon gently press each spoonful into the shape of an 
oyster. Let brown on the lower side, turn over in the 
spider, and let brown on the other side, then lift to a 
warm platter. Do not pile on top of each other. 

To Saute Hominy. — Slighdy soften a pint of cold 
boiled hominy, either coarse or fine, by warming in a 
sauce-pan with two or three tablespoonfuls of milk. Put 
two tablespoonfuls of clarified butter in a spider, and 
when hot put in the hominy, press it against the bottom 



154 "^^^ ^^^ ^f Cookery. 

of the spider with a spoon, let it cook slowly until nicely- 
browned on the under side, then fold like an omelet, and 
serve on a warm platter. 

To Saute Hash. — Mix together a half pint of cold 
cooked fresh meat, or corned beef hashed, and half a 
pint of cold hashed potato. The fresh meat may be 
either broiled, roasted, boiled, or stewed, and the pota- 
toes either boiled or baked. Season the mixture to taste 
with salt and pepper, moisten with four tablespoonfuls 
of broth, gravy, milk, or cream, brown in a spider, 
with two tablespoonfuls of butter, fold like an omelet, 
and serve on a warm platter garnished with breakfast 
bacon. Serve with it sour baked or stewed apples. 

To Saute Fish Cakes. — Mix together half a pint of 
boiled codfish freed from bones and skin, half a pint of 
mashed, boiled potato, two tablespoonfuls of sweet milk, 
and one tablespoonful of butter. Season to taste with 
salt and pepper, form into cakes half an inch thick, and 
brown in a spider in hot butter, or the drippings of salt 
pork or breakfast bacon. 

To Saute Sausage. — Form the prepared sausage 
meat into small cakes half an inch in thickness. Lay in 
a spider or on a griddle, without grease, and as soon as 
the under side is browned turn over and brown the up- 
per side, then cover the spider, shove it to the back of 
the range, and let the sausage simmer five minutes. To 
cook sausage in skins, pierce the skins in several places 
with a skewer or fork, put in a spider, add a few spoon- 
fuls of boiling water, cover closely, simmer gently for 
twenty minutes, then remove the cover and let the 
sausage become brown before serving it. 



Frying. 155 

To Saute Calf's Liver.— Remove the skin from the 
liver, cut in slices half an inch in thickness, soak in 
salted cold water half an hour, dry on a towel, dust lightly 
with pepper and freely with flour, and cook gently in a 
spider in a little clarified butter, or drippings from salt 
pork or breakfast bacon, until thoroughly done. Serve 
crisp slices of breakfast bacon or salt pork with the 
liver. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 

Cookery for invalids and sick-room cookery, as in- 
dicating a particular kind of cookery, are misleading 
terms, if not gross misnomers. Nearly all articles of 
food that are suitable for people in ordinary health are 
suitable, under certain conditions, for invalids at some 
periods of their sickness or convalescence. For the 
principles that govern the scientific preparation of food 
apply in all cases — whether the food be prepared for 
invalids or for persons in robust health. The province 
of a physician is to prescribe the articles of diet best 
adapted to the special needs of each patient. To pre- 
pare those articles according to the most approved culi- 
nary methods is the duty of the nurse. Therefore, to 
be a good nurse one must understand the principles of 
cookery and be able to apply them practically in the 
preparation of such articles as are prescribed by the 
physician. 

There are, however, a number of simple gruels, bev- 
erages, and toasts, seldom relished by people in health, 
that are craved by invalids, and may be beneficial to 
them. Most of these are permissible in all sick rooms, 
and can be used, at suitable times, by a judicious nurse 
without consulting a physician or without fear of their 
proving detrimental to the patient. To indicate the gen- 

156 



Sick- Room Cookery. 157 

eral principles underlying the preparation of such articles 
of invalid diet a few formulas are given : 

Corn-meal Gruel. — To one quart of boiling water, 
slightly salted, add one fourth of a cup of corn-meal, wet 
with a fourth of a cup of cold water. Boil the mixture 
rapidly for a few minutes in a granite- ware sauce-pan, 
then let it simmer for an hour and a half, or until 
thoroughly cooked. 

Oatmeal Gruel. — Into one quart of boiling water, 
slightly salted, sprinkle slowly, stirring meanwhile, one 
fourth of a cup of oatmeal, and cook slowly two hours 
in a granite-ware sauce-pan or a double boiler. 

Gruels may be made from rolled wheat, barley, and 
some other cereals in a similar manner. 

Farina Gruel. — To one quart of boiling water, slightly 
salted, add one tablespoonful of farina and cook slowly in 
a granite-ware sauce-pan or a double boiler three quar- 
ters of an hour. Gruel can be made of farinose in the 
same manner. All gruels may be strained through a 
fine hair sieve, or a piece of muslin, if it is desirable to 
remove the particles of grain that may be in them. 

Gruels may be served with or without cream or milk ; 
and, if desired, the milk or cream may be added to them 
just before they are removed from the fire. 

Rice Gruel. — To one quart of boiling water, salted to 
taste, add a quarter of a cup of prepared rice, and cook 
slowly in a sauce-pan an hour and a half 

White Flour Gruel. — To a quart of boiling water, 
slightly salted, add half a cup of white flour wet with a 
quarter of a cup of cold water, and cook slowly in a 
sauce-pan for an hour. 



158 The Art of Cookery. 

Browned Flour Gruel. — Brown flour by placing it 
in a shallow pan in the oven and stirring occasionally 
until it is scorched to a uniform brown color. Then 
prepare the same as white flour gruel. 

Gruels may be made from graham, whole wheat, 
peeled wheat, gluten, or any other brand of flour, in a 
similar manner. Gruels made of farina, farinose, rice, 
or flour of any kind are richer in flavor when made with 
equal portions of sweet milk and water ; and when so 
made it is better to add the milk just before removing 
the gruel from the fire. When equal quantities of milk 
and water are to be used in preparing gruels only half 
the quantity of water mentioned in the formulas should 
be used. 

Irish Moss Gruel. — Soak a small handful of Irish 
mgss for five minutes in a quantity of cold water. Rinse 
thoroughly, put into a pint of milk or water, or equal 
quantities of milk and water, and let stand where it will 
be very hot, but will not boil, for fifteen or twenty min- 
utes, then strain, season to taste with salt or sugar, as 
desired, and serve. 

All sea moss gruels are made in a similar manner. 

Crust Coffee. — Brown gradually, until a rich dark 
color, two or three crusts or slices of bread, put them in 
a warm pitcher, add a pinch of salt, pour a quart of 
boiling water over them, and cover the pitcher closely. 
This makes a very refreshing drink for invalids. It is 
sometimes called ' * toast tea. ' ' 

Toasted corn-bread or parched corn or wheat may 
also be used for making drinks for invalids. 

Apple Water. — Bake before the fire two or three 



Sick- Room Cookery. 159 

medium-sized sour apples until soft and richly browned. 
Put them in a warm pitcher or bowl, add a pinch of salt 
and a little sugar, if desired, mash and break them until 
the seeds are released from the cores, then pour a quart 
of boiling water over them. Cover the pitcher, let 
stand five minutes, then strain off the water. Apple 
water can be used either warm or cold. 

A great variety of refreshing drinks may be made for 
invalids by pouring boiling water over crushed fruit, add- 
ing a dust of salt and sugar to taste, and stirring well 
together. Such heavily flavored and comparatively 
sweet fruits as bananas, raspberries, etc. , make a much 
more refreshing drink when a small quantity of lemon 
juice is added to the fruit. Very acceptable drinks may 
also be prepared from such dried or evaporated fruits as 
apples, peaches, plums, apricots, prunes, prunellas, and 
raisins by soaking the prepared fruit a few hours, and 
then cooking it gently until the water is of the desired 
flavor. All fruit-juice preparations for invalids may be 
served either hot, warm, or cold to suit the taste, or fancy 
of the invalid. 

Egg Whips. — A great variety of palatable and nutri- 
tious drinks for invalids may be prepared by combining 
whipped eggs with cream, coffee, cocoa, chocolate, fruit 
juices, fruit syrups, flavoring extracts, etc. 

Egg Nog without Wine or Brandy. — Put the yolk 
of a fresh ^^^ in a small bowl or cup, add a teaspoonful 
of lemon juice, a tablespoonful of sugar, a grating of 
nutmeg, and five drops each of ginger and lemon ex- 
tract. Whip until light and thick. Beat the white of 
the ^^g to a stiff froth, and mix with the beaten yolk, 



i6o The Art of Cooheiy. 

then add three tablespoonfuls of cream, whipped or un- 
whipped, and serve. 

Egg Whips with Syrup. — Put the yolk of a fresh 
^g<g in a small bowl or cup, add a teaspoonful of cold 
water, and whip very light and thick. Mix with it the 
white of the q.%^ beaten stiff and a tablespoonful of any 
fruit syrup preferred, then add three tablespoonfuls of 
cream, milk, or ice water, and serve. A tablespoonful 
of cold coffee, cocoa, or chocolate may be used in place 
of a fruit syrup ; or the ^^% may be whipped as directed, 
and sugar, orange, lemon, vanilla, nutmeg, or any flavor- 
ing extract desired be added, with cream, milk, or water 
in the proportion liked. 

Lemonade No. i. — To half a cup of lemon juice add 
two cups of sugar, or sugar to taste, four cups of water, 
a quarter of the peel of one lemon in thin strips, and a 
pinch of salt. Stir well and serve. 

Lemonade No. 2. — To four cups of freshly boiled 
water add one and a half cups of sugar, and a dust of 
salt, boil two minutes, strain upon half a cup of lemon 
juice and two or three strips of lemon peel. Serve hot 
or cold. 

Lemonade No. 3. — Omit the lemon peel and prepare 
like Lemonade No. 2. When cold add a cup each of 
crushed strawberries and flaked or grated pine-apple. 

Orangeade. — To one cup of orange juice add a cup of 
sugar, the juice of one lemon, a pinch of salt, a quarter 
of the peel of one orange cut in very thin strips, or half 
a teaspoonful of orange extract, and four cups of water. 

Strawberryade. — To one cup of strawberry juice add 
the juice of one lemon, one cup of sugar, or sugar to 



Sick- Room Cookery. 1 6 1 

taste, a pinch of salt, and four cups of water. Stir until 
the sugar dissolves, then serve. 

Pine-Appleade. — To one cup of pine-apple syrup or 
juice add the juice of one lemon, a pinch of salt, sugar 
to taste, and three cups of water. Stir until the sugar 
dissolves, then serve. Half a cup of pine-apple juice or 
syrup may be added to the strawberryade, or half a cup 
of strawberry juice to the pine-appleade. Other berries 
and fruits may be used in a similar manner for making 
palatable drinks for invalids. 

Cocoa No. I. — Put a teaspoonful of cocoa and a tea- 
spoonful of granulated sugar into a heated cup, mix well 
together, add sweet cream to taste, fill the cup with boil- 
ing water, and serve. 

Cocoa No. 2. — Put four teaspoonfuls of cocoa into a 
heated cup, and pour upon it, gradually, stirring mean- 
while, one cup of boiling water. When perfectly mixed, 
pour into a chocolate pot, add one cup of boiling water 
and two cups of hot milk. Beat with a chocolate whip 
until light and foamy. Serve with whipped cream. 

Cocoa No. 3. — Prepare like Cocoa No. 2, but just be- 
fore whipping the mixture add to it a fresh ^^^, beaten 
very light, then whip and serve. 

Chocolate. — If the chocolate is finely grated, prepare 
the same as cocoa. If it is coarsely grated, mix with the 
quantity of water to be used, and simmer in a sauce-pan 
until perfectly smooth before adding hot milk. 

Shells. — Put a quarter of a cup of cocoa shells into a 
sauce-pan, add two cups of boiling water, and let stand 
where it will keep hot, but not boil, for fifteen minutes. 
Serve with either hot milk or whipped cream. 



1 62 The Art of Cookery. 

Beefsteak Toast. — Toast thin slices of bread until a 
nice brown color, then moisten them with the juice 
pressed from rare broiled beefsteak. Serve hot. 

Broth Toast. — Dip slices of toast into very hot, well- 
salted chicken, beef, or mutton broth, and serve. 

Frizzled beef or creamed codfish may be served on 
toast ; or the beef and fish may be strained out and the 
slices of toast moistened with the cream gravy. 

Oyster Toast. — Cover thin slices of hot, dry toast 
with stewed, broiled, or panned oysters until they are 
well saturated with the juices, then remove the oysters 
and serve the toast. 

Fruit Toast. — Spread over thin slices of buttered toast 
a small quantity of freshly cooked fruit, sweetened to 
taste. In using berries, if the seeds are objectionable, 
the juice alone may be used to moisten and flavor the 
toast. 

Blackberry Mush — To a quart of ripe blackberries 
add a pint of water and cook in a sauce-pan until the 
berries are soft. Stir to a smooth paste three fourths of 
a cup of flour and half a cup of cold water, and add to 
the cooked berries in the sauce-pan. Let the mixture 
simmer five minutes, or until the flour is well cooked, 
stirring constantly meanwhile, then sweeten with three 
fourths of a cup of sugar. Serve cold with sweet 
cream. 

Mush can be made of dewberries, strawberries, or 
raspberries in a similar manner. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

CANNING, PRESERVING, AND PICKLING. 

Our groceries are so crowded with the products of 
canning estabUshments that the canning, preserving, and 
pickHng of fruits and vegetables is almost a neglected 
art in the average family. But as nearly all fruits and 
vegetables are finer flavored and give better satisfaction 
when properly canned, preserved, pickled, or made into 
jams and jellies at home than when done at canning 
establishments, a few general directions are given in 
regard to doing such work, and the principles that 
underlie the canning, preserving, and pickling of various 
fruits and vegetables are illustrated by a number of 
select and well-tested formulas. 

General Directions. — To retain the color and flavor of 
fruit or vegetables most effectually in canning or preserv- 
ing — and to do this should be a prominent aim — the 
fruit or vegetables should be cooked slowly, in small 
quantities, in granite-ware or porcelain-lined vessels, 
and be stirred with a wooden or a silver spoon. Hard, 
tough fruit that is to be canned or preserved should be 
cooked in water until tender before any sugar is added ; 
but soft fruit should be cooked in a syrup made from 
sugar and water, or sugar and the juice of the kind of 
fruit to be canned or preserved. It is not necessary to 
use sugar in canning fruit, as nearly all fruits, when 

163 



164 The Art of Cookery. 

properly canned, will keep perfectly without it. Some 
fruits retain their color and flavor best when canned with 
sugar, others when canned without it. If fruit is canned 
without sugar, it can be sweetened to taste at the time 
of serving. The use or non-use of sugar is therefore an 
open question and largely a matter of individual opinion. 

All canned fruits and vegetables should be put up 
boiling hot, in air-tight cans ; and all fruits and vegetables 
put up in glass — whether canned or preserved — should 
be wrapped in paper to exclude the light, and be stored 
in a cool, dry closet. 

Many seedy fruits, such as strawberries, blackberries, 
etc., retain their color and flavor better when crushed 
and made into jams than when kept whole and canned 
or preserved. In making jams only the quantity of 
sugar that will render them most palatable need be used ; 
but in making preserves it is often necessary to use an 
equal weight of sugar and fruit. 

To Can Strawberries. — Crush one fourth of the 
berries selected for canning, strain out the juice, and put 
it in a preserving kettle. To each pint of juice add one 
pint of granulated sugar and one half pint of water, let 
simmer twenty minutes, and remove the scum. Fill 
glass cans with the remaining berries and set on racks or 
rests in a boiler containing sufficient warm water to cover 
the racks. Fill the cans of fruit with the prepared 
syrup and screw on the caps loosely. After all the cans 
have been filled, add hot water to that in the boiler until 
it comes half way to the top of the cans, put the lid on 
the boiler, let the water boil half an hour, then screw the 
caps tightly on the cans, cover them with a towel to 



Cannings Preservings and Pickling. 165 

protect them from exposure to cold air, remove from the 
boiler, and set away to cool. When perfectly cold 
tighten the caps, if necessary, wrap the cans in paper, 
and keep in a cool, dry closet. Other berries may be 
canned in a similar manner, either with or without sugar. 

To Can Peaches. — Halve and pare the peaches intended 
for canning, put them in glass cans, and set the cans on 
racks in a boiler as directed for canning strawberries. Fill 
the cans of fruit with a syrup made by adding one pound of 
granulated sugar to each pint of water used and letting 
it simmer five minutes, put on the caps loosely, cover 
the boiler, let the fruit cook half an hour, if the peaches 
are soft, an hour if they are hard, then screw the caps 
tightly on the jars, and proceed as directed for canning 
strawberries. 

To Can Pine- Apples — Pare the pine-apples, flake from 
the cores with a fork, fill heated glass cans with the pre- 
pared fruit, and set them on a rack in a boiler. Make 
a syrup by cooking together, five minutes, one pound of 
sugar to each pint of water. Remove the scum from 
the syrup, fill the cans containing the fruit with the hot 
syrup, screw on the caps loosely, cook half an hour, 
tighten the caps, and remove the cans from the boiler. 
When the cans are cold again tighten the caps, wrap in 
paper, and set in a cool, dry closet. 

To Can Quinces. — Quarter, pare, and core the quinces. 
Put the prepared fruit into a preserving kettle, cover 
with water, simmer until tender enough to pierce with a 
straw, then put into glass cans and set in a warm place. 
To each pint of the water in which the quinces were 
cooked add half a pound of granulated sugar, simmer 



1 66 The Art of Cookery, 



five minutes, remove the scum, fill the cans containing 
the ft-uit with the syrup, screw on the caps, and when 
cold wrap in paper and put in a dry closet. 

To Can Pears. — If the pears are ripe and soft can like 
peaches ; if they are hard can like quinces. 

To Can Plums. — Pierce the plums with a fork, or gir- 
dle them with a knife. If they are very acid use three 
fourths of a pound of sugar to each pound of plums, if 
very mild use but a quarter of a pound of sugar to each 
pound of plums. Put the sugar, with half a pint of 
v/ater to each pound of sugar, into a preserving kettle, 
simmer five minutes, remove the scum, then put the 
plums into the syrup and cook fifteen minutes, or until 
the fruit is soft and looks cooked. Stir the plums fre- 
quently while cooking, and when soft put them in heated 
glass cans, filling the cans quite full, screw the caps on 
tightly, and after the cans are cold wrap in paper and set 
away. 

To Can Cherries No. i. — Fill glass cans with large, 
ripe cherries and set them on racks in a boiler partly filled 
with warm water. Make a syrup, using one pound of 
sugar to each pint of water, and after it has simmered 
five minutes fill the cans containing the fruit with it, 
screw -on the caps lightly, cook half an hour, then tighten 
the caps and remove the cans. When cold tighten the 
caps again, wrap the cans in paper, and set in a dry, cool 
closet. 

To Can Cherries No. 2. — Pit the cherries, put them 
in a preserving kettle, add half a cup of water to each 
quart of cherries, cover closely, heat to boiling point, 
simmer ten minutes, then add sugar to taste. If the 



Canning, Preservings and Pickling. 167 

cherries are sweet a quarter of a pound of sugar to each 
pound of cherries will be sufficient, if they are very 
sour three quarters of a pound of sugar will be required 
to each pound of cherries. After adding the sugar cook 
until it dissolves and the fruit boils, then fill heated 
cans with it, screw the caps on the cans, let them cool, 
wrap in paper, and set in a cool, dry closet. 

To Can Corn. — Cut the corn from the cob and pack 
it, as compactly as possible, in glass cans. Screw the 
caps loosely on the cans, set them on a rack in a boiler, 
add warm water until the cans are half covered, put the 
lid on the boiler, and cook the corn three hours, then 
screw down the caps on the cans and remove them from 
the boiler. When cold tighten the caps, wrap the cans 
in paper, and set in a cool, dry closet. 

To Can Peas. — Fill glass cans, as compactly as possi- 
ble, with peas. Set the cans on a rack in a boiler, fill 
with warm water, add a teaspoonful of salt to each 
quart of peas, screw the caps on the cans loosely, cook 
an hour, and then proceed as for canning corn. 

To Can Lima Beans. — Cook the beans five minutes in 
slightly salted water, then drain off the water, pack the 
beans compactly in glass cans, set the cans on a rack in 
a boiler, fill them with warm water, add a teaspoonful 
each of salt and granulated sugar to each quart of beans, 
screw the caps on the cans loosely, cook an hour, and 
proceed as for canning corn. 

To Can String Beans. — Follow the directions given 
for canning lima beans. 

To Can Asparagus — Wash the stalks of asparagus, 
cut them of the same length, place them, with the tips 



1 68 The Art of Cookery. 

upward, compactly, in glass cans, set the cans on a rack 
in a boiler, fill them with warm water, add a teaspoonful 
of salt to each quart can of asparagus, screw on the caps 
loosely, cook half an hour, and proceed as for canning 
corn. 

To Can Tomatoes No. i — Skin the tomatoes, put 
them in a preserving kettle, cook for half an hour, if 
in small quantities, longer if in large quantities, dip off the 
water occasionally while the tomatoes are cooking, as a 
pint of water can be removed from two quarts of toma- 
toes and their quality and flavor be greatly improved 
thereby. When sufficiently cooked fill heated glass cans 
with the hot tomato, screw the caps on the cans, set 
aside till cold, then tighten the caps, wrap the cans in 
paper, and keep in a cool, dry closet. 

To Can Tomatoes No. 2. — Fill heated glass cans com- 
pactly with smooth, medium-sized tomatoes that are not 
over-ripe. Fill the cans with boiling water, add a table- 
spoonful of salt to each quart of tomatoes, screw on the 
caps tightly, let stand till cold, then tighten the caps on 
the cans, wrap in paper, and put in a cool, dry closet. 

To Can Tomatoes No. 3 — Remove the skins from 
smooth, medium-sized tomatoes as directed on page 26, 
and fill heated glass cans compactly with them. Fill the 
cans with boiling water, add two whole cloves and a 
tablespoonful each of sugar and salt to each quart of to- 
matoes, screw the caps tightly on the cans, let them 
stand until cold, then tighten the caps, wrap the cans in 
paper, and put in a cool, dry closet. 

To Preserve Peaches. — Cut a pound of select peaches 
in halves, remove from the stones, and pare. Put a 



Cannings Preserving, and Pickling. 169 



pound of cut-loaf or granulated sugar, a pint of water, 
and the pits from half the peach stones, into a preserv- 
ing kettle and cook until the sugar is dissolved and the 
syrup boils, then put enough of the prepared peaches 
into the kettle to cover the surface of the syrup. Sim- 
mer gently, turning the fruit over occasionally until 
cooked and transparent, then put in glasses, filling them 
three quarters full. After all the peaches have been 
cooked and put in glasses in this manner simmer the 
syrup two or three minutes, skim and pour over the 
fruit in the glasses, cover securely, wrap in paper when 
cold, and keep in a cool, dry closet. 

To Preserve Pine-Apples. — Pare the pine-apples, cut 
them in slices half an inch thick, and divide the slices 
into halves or quarters. Make a syrup by using one 
pound of sugar to each half pint of water, boil, skim, 
and then proceed as directed for preserving peaches. 

To Preserve Quinces — Cut the quinces in halves or 
quarters according to size, remove the seeds, and pare 
and core the quinces. Put the prepared fruit and the 
seeds into a preserving kettle, barely cover with hot 
water, and simmer very gently until the fruit can be 
pierced with a straw, then carefully remove from the 
water and lay upon plates. Measure the water in which 
the quinces cooked and to each pint of water add a 
pound of sugar. Cook in a preserving kettle until the 
sugar dissolves and the syrup boils, then cook the 
quinces in the syrup, as directed for preserving peaches. 

To Preserve Pears. — Prepare, cook, and preserve as 
directed for preserving quinces if the pears are of a hard 
variety, as for preserving peaches if of a soft variety. 



lyo The Art of Cookery, 



To Preserve Plums. — With a sharp knife cut through 
the skin of each plum and girdle it. Put three pounds 
of the girdled plums and one pint of water into a pre- 
serving kettle, cover, and simmer gently ten minutes, or 
until the plums are soft, add three pounds of granulated 
sugar and stir and cook gently ten minutes more, or 
until the fruit looks clear and cooked, then put in cans, 
cover closely, wrap in paper, and store in a cool, dry 
place. 

To Preserve Cherries. — To three pounds of pitted 
cherries add the juice squeezed from the cherries in 
pitting and one pint of water. Cook and preserve as 
directed for preserving plums. 

To Preserve Strawberries No. i. — From two pounds 
of firm, dark-red strawberries pick out a pound of the 
smallest berries, put them in an earthen bowl with one 
pound of granulated sugar and mash with a wooden 
spoon or a pestle until perfectly crushed and well mixed. 
Let them stand in a cold place for half an hour, then 
strain through a strong, thin cloth and press out all the 
juice. Put the juice in a granite-ware or porcelain-lined 
kettle or sauce-pan and simmer gently twenty minutes, 
removing the scum. After the large berries have been 
washed and drained, roll them carefully on several thick- 
nesses of cheese-cloth so as to dry and not bruise them, 
and put them carefully Into hot glass cans. Fill the cans 
perfectly full with the berries and stand them on a folded 
wet towel in a warm place. Add to the juice, after it 
has simmered twenty minutes, one pound of rock candy, 
broken in small pieces, stir gently, with a wooden spoon, 
until dissolved, then pour the syrup over the berries io 



Catiningy Preserving, and Pickling. 171 

the cans. When the cans are completely filled with the 
syrup, screw on the caps, which should be first heated, 
cover with a towel, and place where they will cool 
gradually. When perfectly cold tighten the caps, wrap 
the cans in paper to exclude the light, store in a cool, 
dry place, and turn upside down once a week for six or 
eight weeks. 

To Preserve Strawberries No. 2. — Prepare and cook 
the syrup as directed for preserving strawberries 
in formula No. i, adding cut-loaf sugar in place of rock 
candy. Spread the large berries, after they have been 
washed, drained, and dried, on deep platters that have 
been first heated, dip or pour the boiling syrup over 
them, set in the sunshine, and cover with fine wire net- 
ting or screens. Press the berries gently under the 
syrup, or pour the syrup over them, two or three times 
a day, until jelly begins to form, which will be after an 
exposure of the mixture to a hot sun for about three 
days, put into small cans or tumblers, filling them quite 
full, expose to a bright sunshine until the surface is 
slightly dried over and a skin formed, then cover closely, 
wrap in paper, and keep in a cool, dry closet. 

To Preserve Strawberries No. 3. — To two pounds of 
granulated or cut-loaf sugar add one pint of water and 
simmer in a sauce-pan five minutes. Have two pounds 
of large, firm strawberries prepared for cooking. Put 
enough of them into the syrup to cover the surface, sim- 
mer very gently, shaking the sauce-pan occasionally to 
keep the berries submerged in the syrup, until they look 
cooked and transparent, then skim them from the syrup 
and put into glasses. Cook and dispose of all the ber- 



172 The Art of Cookery. 

ries in a similar manner, filling each of the glasses 
three fourths full of the cooked fruit, then simmer the 
syrup until about the consistency of ordinary syrup, 
fill the glasses containing the berries quite full with it, 
cover closely, wrap in paper, and store in a cool, dry 
place. 

To Preserve Raspberries. — Large red raspberries can 
be preserved according to either of the formulas given 
for preserving strawberries ; but, whichever formula is 
followed, the juice of a lemon should be added to in- 
crease the acidity of the syrup. 

Raspberry Jam. — From two quarts of red raspberries 
pick out one third of the smallest berries. Crush, press 
out the juice, and strain it. Crush the remainder of the 
berries, put them, with the strained juice, into a porce- 
lain-lined kettle, and, after they begin to boil, simmer 
gently for twenty minutes, stirring frequently, then add 
a pound and a half of granulated sugar, simmer five 
minutes more, remove the scum that rises, take the 
kettle from the fire, put the jam in glasses, cover closely, 
wrap in paper, and set in a cool, dry closet. 

Strawberry Jam. — From two quarts of strawberries 
pick out one third of the smaller ones. Crush, press 
out the juice, and strain it from the crushed fruit. Crush 
the remainder of the two quarts of berries, put them, with 
the juice and one pound of granulated sugar, into a 
preserving kettle, simmer twenty minutes, add another 
pound of sugar, and as soon as the sugar is dissolved 
and the fruit begins to boil, remove the kettle from the 
fire, put the jam into glasses, cover closely, wrap in 
paper, and put in a cool, dry place. 



Canning, Preserving, and Pickling. 173 



If the strawberries are not very acid omit half a pound 
of the sugar. 

Blackberry Jam. — Prepare and cook the berries as 
directed for raspberry jam, using only one pound of 
sugar to two quarts of blackberries. 

Currant Jam. — Prepare and cook the currants as di- 
rected for raspberry jam. Or use two thirds currants 
and one third red raspberries for making the jam. 

Pine-Apple Marmalade. — Pare and grate the pine- 
apples. Put the grated pine-apple into a preserving 
ketde, add a pound of granulated sugar for each pound 
of pine-apple, stir with a wooden spoon, and cook fif- 
teen minutes, or until transparent. Put in cans, cover 
closely, wrap in paper, and put in a cool, dry place. 

Orange Marmalade. — Take twelve oranges, six 
lemons, ten pounds of granulated sugar, and a gallon of 
cold water. Scrub the oranges and lemons with a stif^ 
brush and warm water, and wipe them dry. Then cut 
them crosswise with a sharp knife, in as thin slices as 
possible, and reject the end pieces. Pick out the seeds, 
put them in a bowl, and pour over them a pint of water. 
Pour the balance of the water over the sliced fruit, and 
set both seed and fruit aside and let soak for thirty-six 
hours. At the end of that time put the sliced fruit, with 
the water in which it soaked, into a preserving ketde, 
drain the water from the seeds into it, and cook slowly 
for two hours, then add the sugar and cook for another 
hour, or until the mixture jellies. Stir occasionally 
during the last hour's cooking. Put the marmalade 
while warm into tumblers or fruit jars, cover closely, 
and keep in a cool place. 



174 ^'^^ -^^^ ^f Cookery, 



Grape Marmalade. — To four quarts of grapes, picked 
before they are fully ripe, add one quart of water, cook 
till soft, then rub through a sieve. To each pint of 
pulp add a pound of granulated sugar, stir while cook- 
ing, and cook twenty minutes. Put in cans and cover 
closely. 

Marmalade may be prepared in a similar manner from 
peaches, plums, gooseberries, and all pulpy fruits. 

Strawberry Jelly. — Put three pints of strawberry 
juice into a preserving kettle, add one pound of cut-loaf 
sugar, simmer twenty minutes, add two more pounds of 
sugar, simmer five minutes, and remove from the fire. 
Put the jelly in glasses, cover securely, and keep in a 
cool, dry place. 

Raspberry Jelly. — Simmer three pints of raspberry 
juice twenty minutes, add two and a quarter pounds of 
sugar, simmer five minutes, or until it will jelly when 
cooled on a plate, then remove from the fire, fill into 
glasses, cover closely, and set away. 

Blackberry Jelly. — Prepare and cook as directed for 
raspberry jelly, using half a pound of sugar to each pint 
of juice ; or, if preferred, add the juice of a lemon to 
every three pints of blackberry juice and use a pound of 
sugar to each pint of liquid. 

Apple Jelly. — Select very tart, red-skinned apples, 
wash, remove all imperfect spots, and cut in quarters. 
Put the quarters into a preserving kettle and cook gently 
for half an hour, or until tender, then put into a jelly 
bag and let the juice drip into an earthen bowl. Do not 
squeeze the fruit. Put three pints of the apple juice 
into a preserving kettle, simmer twenty minutes, add 



Canning, Preserving, and Pickling. 175 

three pounds of granulated sugar, simmer five minutes, 
then remove from the fire and put in glasses. When 
cold cover closely, and keep in a cool, dry place, 

Crab-Apple Jelly. — Follow the directions given for 
making apple jelly. 

Quince Jelly. — Follow the directions for making apple 
jelly, but cook the prepared fruit a greater length of 
time. 

Currant Jelly. — Select currants that are not over- 
ripe. Pick from the stems, crush in small quantities, 
and strain out the juice. Allow one pound of cut-loaf 
or granulated sugar to each pint of juice. Put three 
pints of juice at a time into a preserving kettle, let it 
simmer gently for twenty minutes, removing the scum 
occasionally, then add the sugar, stir occasionally, and 
as soon as it dissolves and the jelly boils remove from 
the fire and put in glasses, cover closely, and set in a 
cool, dry closet. 

Grape Jelly. — Select grapes that are nof over-ripe. 
Pick from the stems, put into a preserving kettle, add 
half a pint of water for each pound of grapes, simmer 
till soft, then put the cooked fruit into a jelly bag and 
let the juice drip into a bowl. Do not squeeze the bag. 
Put the strained juice into the preserving kettle and 
simmer twenty minutes. Add a pound of granulated 
sugar to each pint of juice, simmer five minutes, skim, 
put into jelly glasses, cover closely, and set in a cool, 
dry place. 

Pickled Cabbage. — Select crisp, white cabbage and 
chop it fine. To each quart of chopped cabbage add a 
tablespoonful each of salt, white mustard seed, and 



176 The Art of Cookery. 

sugar, with pepper to taste. Put the mixture in a jar 
and cover with cold cider vinegar. Scatter half a dozen 
cloves over the top of the cabbage, cover the jar, and in 
a few days the pickle will be ready for use. If the 
vinegar is pure and strong the cabbage will keep almost 
indefinitely. 

Cold Catsup. — Select firm, ripe tomatoes and scald, 
cool, and skin them as directed on page 26. Slice the 
prepared tomatoes in slices a quarter of an inch thick 
and dice the slices. Put on a large platter and to each 
quart of diced tomato add a teaspoon of salt, sifting the 
salt uniformly over the tomato. Place a folded towel 
under one end of the platter so the water that drains 
from the tomato may be dipped off. When the tomato 
is well drained add a cup of finely chopped celery, two 
tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar, one tablespoonful 
of white mustard seed, one of minced onion, half a 
dozen whole cloves, and pepper to taste. Mix lightly 
together, put in glass cans, filling them nearly full, cover 
with cold cider vinegar, screw on the caps tightly, wrap 
the cans in paper, and set them in a cool, dry place. 

Cucumber Catsup. — Grate six fresh cucumbers and 
three onions of medium size. Add a teaspoonful of 
salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a cup of 
vinegar. Mix all well together, bottle, wrap in paper, 
and put in a cool place. 

Green Tomato Pickle. — Slice together a peck of green 
tomatoes and a quart of onions, and sprinkle the mix- 
ture with half a cup of salt. Let stand six or eight 
hours, drain off the water, put the prepared tomatoes 
into a preserving kettle, add six quarts of vinegar, three 



Cannings Preserving, and Pickling 177 

sweet peppers chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of 
white mustard seed, and an ounce of whole cloves. 
Boil slowly three or four hours, stirring frequently, and 
half an hour before removing from the fire add a pound 
of sugar. Put in cans or jars, cover securely, and set 
away. 

Cucumber Pickles. — Fill a jar with small, freshly 
gathered cucumbers, sprinkle lightly with salt, fill the 
jar with boiling water, and let stand till cold. Drain the 
water from the cucumbers, put them in a preserving 
kettle, cover with equal portions of cider vinegar and 
water, heat to boiling point, then pour off the liquid. 
Put the cucumbers in the jar, add three small sweet 
peppers, half a dozen whole cloves, and a cup of sugar. 
Cover with cold vinegar and put away. 

Spiced Peaches. — Take seven pounds of peaches, 
three pounds of sugar, a quart of vinegar, an ounce of 
cinnamon, and half an ounce of cloves. Make a syrup 
of the sugar by adding a quart of water, and, when 
boiling, cook as many of the peaches as the kettle will 
hold without piling one upon another. Simmer gently, 
shaking and turning them about until tender and some- 
what transparent, then remove with a skimmer and 
place in a jar. Cook all the fruit in this manner, then 
simmer the syrup until it is thick, add to it the vinegar 
and spices, simmer five minutes more, pour it over the 
pickles in a jar, cover, and set them away. 

Spiced Damsons. — Puncture seven pounds of damsons 
with a fork and lay them in a jar. Heat to boiling one 
quart of vinegar and four pounds of sugar with spice the 
same as for peaches. Pour the hot liquid upon the 



178 The Art of Cookery. 

plums, cover closely, and let stand for twenty-four hours. 
Repeat this process every morning for a week. Then 
heat the fruit with the syrup, simmer for ten minutes, 
put in jars, cover closely, and set away. 



PART IV.-MIXING. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The most important departments of cookery are those 
of mixing and seasoning. And all articles of food that 
have to be mixed and seasoned, in their preparation for 
the table, belong legitimately to those departments. For 
the purpose, however, of showing clearly that the four 
primary methods of broiling, roasting, boiling, and fry- 
ing cover all the different ways in which food can be 
cooked, it has been deemed advisable, in the arrange- 
ment of this book, to place under those respective 
heads quite a number of articles that belong, and would 
otherwise have appeared, under the heads of mixing and 
seasoning. 

The general name of wetting is given to all liquids 
used for mixing doughs or batters, whether the liquid 
used be water, sweet milk, sour milk, buttermilk, cream, 
or a combination of these liquids, and the proportion of 
flour required to a given quantity of wetting, for making 
a certain kind of batter cake or muffin, can only be 
given approximately, as the quality and condition of the 
flour affects the character and consistency of the batter 
in making batter cakes and muffins more materially 
even than it does that of dough in bread-making. Still, 
by keeping in mind a few well-established principles, the 
careful cook will have no difficulty in handling any 

179 



i8o The Art of Cookery. 

brand of flour so as to produce satisfactory results, in 
all kinds of muffins, waffles, griddle cakes, etc. 

These soft mixtures of dough, or batters vary in con- 
sistency or stiffiiess from one cup of flour for each cup 
of wetting to two cups of flour for each cup of wetting, 
but the largest proportion of them are graded between 
the two extremes, and the most desirable occupy a 
middle ground, varying little from a cup and a half of 
flour to each cup of wetting — provided winter or soft 
wheat flour, which is preferable for all soft doughs and 
batters, be used. 

But before mixing any of them the eflect that will be 
produced by the introduction of eggs into such mixtures 
should be carefully considered. Four medium-sized 
eggs beaten lightly and mixed with a pint of milk will, 
when baked, thicken the milk into a custard stiff" 
enough to retain its form when cold. And by this 
standard the thickening quality of Q^'g when beaten 
lightly and mixed with milk may be approximated. If 
the ^gg be beaten until very light its thickening power 
diminishes ; but it then contributes materially to the 
lightness of the mixture. The white of the ^%% is much 
more valuable for imparting lightness to a batter of soft 
dough than the yolk, while the latter on account of its 
richness is most valuable for use in creams, custards, 
sauces, and puddings. 

The effect of butter on these mixtures is to make 
them short or tender and to enrich them. If many eggs 
are used in batter mixtures, butter, or ' * shortening ' ' of 
some kind, is necessary to counteract the toughening 
tendency of the eggs. 



Introduction. igi 



To make a perfect batter cake or muffin the manner 
of mixing or putting the ingredients together is equally 
as important as a careful adjustment of the proportions 
of those ingredients, and the methods of mixing may 
with propriety be varied when different proportions of 
the same ingredients are used. 

It is always best to sift baking powder and salt with 
the flour, that they may be freed from lumps and equally 
distributed through it. It is also best to sift the flour 
just before using it. 

In making a very thin batter the flour should be put 
in the mixing bowl, and the milk or other wetting added, 
a portion at a time, so the batter may be well whipped 
or beaten before being made too thin. 



CHAPTER XV. 



BREAD-MAKING. 



Bread-making is a neglected art. In hotels, restau- 
rants, boarding houses, and private families, bad bread 
is abundant, and good bread seldom found. Every- 
where bad bread is the rule, good bread the exception. 
Yet good bread is one of the most nutritious, satisfying, 
and inexpensive articles of human food, while bad bread 
is one of the most innutritions, unsatisfying, and ex- 
pensive. 

The general belief that numerous ingredients and 
much hard labor are necessary for successful bread- 
making has no foundation in fact. Bread-making, when 
the principles are understood, is one of the easiest of 
culinary processes ; and the only ingredients needed for 
bread of the choicest quality are flour, yeast, milk, 
water, and salt. Women will use salt rising, dry yeast 
cakes, potato balls, yeast foam, and innumerable other 
ferments to lighten their dough, and supplement them 
with grease, sugar, alum, vinegar, charcoal, and almost 
every other conceivable thing, and invariably have bad 
bread. Yet it seems never to occur to them to use only 
the proper ingredients. Why do people take such 
infinite pains to make bad bread? Why, in this 
enlightened age of the world, should any person of 

ordinary sense want salt rising, dried yeast cakes, 

182 



Bread- Making. 183 



potato balls, or any false or putrefactive ferments in 
bread-making, when compressed yeast or pure home- 
made yeast is so readily obtainable, and is so superior 
in all respects for the purpose? Or why should any 
intelligent person put aught else into dough than flour, 
yeast, milk, water, and salt, when these ingredients 
alone produce the very best of bread ? 

In the good old times of which we are so frequently 
reminded by pessimistic croakers, wheat with a year's 
accumulation of dirt clinging to it was emptied from a 
dirty sack into a dirty hopper, crushed by dirty stones 
into dirty flour, and then mixed with a dirty ferment 
into grandmother's bread. Was there not, under such 
conditions, a basis of truth for the then prevalent belief 
that it was the allotted task of each member of the 
family to eat his or her peck of dirt ? But those con- 
ditions have passed away. Through the agency of an 
improved method of milling, each grain of wheat is 
carefully brushed free of dirt and furze before it passes 
under the polished steel or porcelain rollers to be con- 
verted into flour, and by the aid of science pure yeast is 
made expressly for family use. Should not such an 
advance in preparing flour and yeast be followed by a 
similar advance in making bread ? The flour and yeast 
of to-day are far superior to the flour and yeast used by 
our grandmothers. Why should not the bread made 
to-day be far superior to the bread made by our grand- 
mothers ? The flour and yeast furnished by American 
men to-day are unequaled anywhere in excellence. 
Why shouldn't the bread made by American women 
to-day be the best bread in the world ? 



184 The Art of Cookery. 

Flour, — Under the system of milling that was almost 
universal until thirty years ago the only fine flour that 
could be produced was mostly starch, and the finest 
white flour was then deficient in nitrogen and the 
phosphates. Millers had no facilities for separating and 
purifying the middlings which contained the hard, 
nitrogenous parts of the- grain, and they were largely 
used for pig and cattle feed. The new system of 
milling, known as the roller process, has, however, 
entirely revolutionized things, and the middlings which 
contained those parts of the wheat are now purified and 
milled with care into patent or new process flour. The 
idea is still entertained by many that the choice, high- 
priced, patent flours are deficient in nitrogenous matter, 
and that coarse flour is more nutritious and healthful 
than fine. The reverse is the fact. The finest flours 
contain all the best elements of the wheat berry, without 
any admixture of pulverized wood fiber, bran coating, 
or germ grease ; and, all things considered, the very 
finest patent flour holds the leading place both hygieni- 
cally and economically among cereal foods or grain 
products. 

The highest grade of patent flour is made from 
middlings cleansed from impurities by * ' middlings 
purifiers. ' ' The inferior middlings go into other grades 
in due proportion. And the highest grade contains 
more gluten in proportion to the quantity of starch than 
the other grades. But any of the different grades of 
flour made at a certain mill can be raised or lowered in 
quality at the option of the miller, by increasing or 
decreasing the amount of gluten and starch in a given 



Bread- Making . 185 



quantity of flour. Where the first patent made from a 
given quantity of wheat is of the choicest quaUty, it 
contains a large percentage of the best constituents of 
the wheat, and the other grades made from the same 
wheat must be correspondingly low in those constitu- 
ents. Of course where only one grade of flour is 
made at a mill all the constituents of the wheat berry go 
into the flour ; but in a hundred pounds of such flour 
the quantity of starch is greater in proportion to the 
quantity of gluten than it is in a hundred pounds of the 
highest grade patent flour. There is usually con- 
siderable difference in the price of first and second grade 
flour, and frequently a difference of fifty per cent in 
price between a sack of the highest and a sack of the 
lowest grade flour. In other words, when the best 
patent flour made by a certain mill sells for $1.50 a 
sack, the lowest grade flour made by the same mill sells 
for 80 cents a sack. As a general rule, however, the 
highest priced flour is the cheapest, as it contains twice 
the amount of nutritious material and will, with half the 
labor, produce more than twice the quantity of good, 
wholesome bread. 

Strength, when applied to flour, means the measure of 
its power to absorb and retain water ; or indicates rather 
the measure of water that the flour will absorb to 
produce dough of a certain consistency, without any 
regard to the delicacy or nutritive qualities of the bread 
obtained from such dough. And when millers and 
bakers talk of ' ' a strong flour, ' ' they mean that a 
certain grade of flour will absorb more water, and make 
more loaves of bread, than another grade will, and that 



1 86 The Art of Cookery. 

a sack of flour of a special grade will take more wetting 
into its mixture and yield a greater quantity of bread 
than a sack of another grade will, the quality of the 
bread not being taken into account. 

Spring wheat has a harder grain than winter wheat 
and yields a harder and grittier flour, which absorbs 
more water and is easier to handle successfully than 
winter wheat flour, in bread-making. But equally good 
bread can be made from either variety, although more 
delicate cake and pastry can be made from winter wheat 
than from spring wheat flour, and what is known in the 
market as "pastry flour" is simply flour made of winter 
wheat. 

Compressed Yeast. — Yeast is a vegetable germ found 
upon the skin of grapes, plums, and some other fruits — 
in fact, the beautiful shade upon the skin of those fruits 
known as ' ' bloom ' ' is produced by the yeast plants that 
float in the atmosphere settling upon them. If yeast 
germs get, or are put, into a substance in which they 
find material adapted to their development they increase 
very rapidly, and by their vegetative action during the 
period of growth cause the substance in which they are 
growing to bubble or ferment. The manufacturers of 
yeast multiply these germs indefinitely by inducing 
fermentation in a sweet infusion of malt, rye, and corn, 
and millions of the germs rise to the surface of the 
fermenting liquid, forming a scum resembling the froth 
of new milk. This scum is removed, run into vats of 
cold water, and allowed to settle to the bottom. The 
water is then pumped off", and the yeast pumped into 
hydraulic presses and reduced by pressure to the con- 



Bread- Making. 187 



sistency desired, when it is made into cakes and put 
upon the market as ' ' compressed yeast. ' ' And from 
the fact that compressed yeast is the purest yeast that 
scientific research has yet discovered, and that it is im- 
possible by mechanical skill to crowd a greater number 
of yeast germs into a given space than are crowded into 
a cake of compressed yeast, it goes almost without 
saying that compressed yeast is the best ferment known 
to the world to-day for bread-making. 

It has been demonstrated over and over again that a 
certain quantity of pure, strong yeast is necessary to 
produce the best results in bread-making — that it is, in 
fact, impossible to make the best quality of bread unless 
the proper quantity of yeast be used ; and housekeepers 
who, to save two or three cents on each baking, buy 
liquid yeast at the bake shop, or dry yeast cakes at the 
corner grocery, always have inferior bread and are losers 
in nearly every way, in the long run. In yeast fermen- 
tation the decomposition of the starch in flour yields the 
gas that lightens the dough, while in these other fermen- 
tations it is the gluten that suffers ; and as starch is the 
most plentiful and least valuable portion of the flour, 
economical considerations alone should induce the use of 
compressed yeast in preference to any other ferments. 
Pure yeast produces sweet, nutty-flavored, wholesome 
bread, while diseased and putrefactive ferments produce 
the coarse, rough crumb, the pale, flinty crust, and the 
flat, sour loaf that are so disappointing and discouraging 
to the bread-maker. The alleged costliness of com- 
pressed yeast would be a serious objection to its use in 
many families, if the allegation were correct. But no 



1 88 The Art of Cookery. 

one whose time is of any value can afford to dabble 
with dry yeast cakes or any of the other ferments. 
They generally cost a hundred fold more than com- 
pressed yeast by annoying the user, by robbing the 
flour of nutrition, and by yielding inferior bread. How 
much is gained in a baking by using one cent's worth of 
common yeast and losing four cents' worth of nutritive 
matter from the flour, over using four cents' worth of 
compressed yeast and retaining all the nutrition in the 
bread ? 

The liability of compressed yeast to spoil in a short 
time by exposure is an objection that is frequently made 
to its use. But a similar objection can, with equal 
propriety, be made to the use of fresh fish, fowl, and 
flesh generally. And as a large proportion of so-called 
perishable articles of food require greater care for their 
perfect preservation than compressed yeast, this objec- 
tion is more imaginary than real. As long as com- 
pressed yeast remains firm and has an alcoholic smell it 
can be depended upon to give better results than dry 
yeast cakes or liquid yeast ; but the fresher it can be 
had the better it is for bread-making, and in localities 
where it is readily attainable housekeepers should always 
get it as fresh as possible. 

Given good flour and good yeast any one should be 
able to make good bread. For the only other ingredi- 
ents needed are a little salt and suflicient wetting to mix 
the flour into a dough of the proper consistency. And 
the wetting may be either water, or milk, or milk and 
water — provided always the milk is sweet. Bread 
mixed with water alone is tougher and sweeter, and will 



Bread- Making. 189 



keep moist longer than bread mixed with milk and 
water, or with milk alone. French bread is mixed with 
water alone, Vienna bread is mixed with milk and water 
in equal proportions, and several varieties of bread are 
mixed with milk alone. 

Comparatively good bread can be made with liquid 
yeast, or even with dry yeast cakes if fresh and sweet ; 
but the best quality of bread can be made only with 
compressed yeast. And bread can be made so much 
easier with compressed yeast than with either liquid 
yeast or dry yeast cakes, that no housekeeper who can 
get compressed yeast can afford to use any other kind. 

Compressed Yeast Bread. — To each pint of luke- 
warm wetting, composed of equal portions of sweet 
milk and water, add a teaspoonful of salt and one half- 
ounce cake of compressed yeast dissolved in about 
three tablespoonfuls of cold water, then stir in flour with 
a spoon until a dough is formed sufficiently stifl" to be 
turned from the mixing bowl in a mass. Put this dough 
on a molding board, and knead well, adding flour until 
it ceases to stick to the fingers or the molding board, 
then put it in a well-greased earthen bowl, brush the 
surface lightly with melted butter or drippings to keep it 
from crusting over, cover it with a bread towel, set to 
rise, and let stand for three hours, at a temperature of 
seventy-five degrees. At the end of that time form 
into loaves or rolls, put into greased pans, brush the 
surface with melted butter or drippings, cover as before, 
and again set to rise for an hour, at the same tempera- 
ture, then bake. 

Dough when light enough to bake should be double 



190 The Art of Cookery. 

the size in bulk it was when set to rise, and should be so 
aerated all through that when lifted, in the pan, the 
sense of weight will be scarcely perceptible. 

Bread should be put to bake as soon as it is suffi- 
ciently light ; and the oven, at the time the dough is 
put into it, should be at a temperature of 375 degrees — 
or hot enough to nicely brown a spoonful of flour, if put 
in it, in two minutes, and it should be kept at almost the 
same temperature throughout the baking. At that 
temperature rolls will bake in twenty or twenty-five 
minutes, and ordinary sized loaves in from forty-five to 
fifty minutes. A loaf of bread when perfectly baked is 
a beautiful chestnut brown all over. If either the ends, 
sides, or bottom have a sickly hue, or are perceptibly 
lighter in color than the top, the loaf has been im- 
perfectly baked, and should be returned to the oven. A 
loaf of bread when sufficiently baked will not burn the 
hand, if lifted from the baking pan and laid on the open 
palm ; and if tapped on the bottom with the finger it 
will emit a hollow sound. Bread not sufficiently baked 
deteriorates rapidly and will begin to grow moldy, and 
frequently ropy, in three or four days, while perfectly 
baked bread may be kept from mold, and in very good 
condition, for a week or ten days. 

Bread as soon as taken from the oven should be 
turned from the pans, and placed, uncovered, in such 
position as will expose the greatest amount of surface to 
the fresh air, without allowing it to come in contact with 
anything likely to give it an unpleasant taste or odor. 
And when cold it should be put in a box or jar to which 
the air can have access, and be kept in a dry, cool room 



Bread- Making. 191 



or closet. To wrap bread in cloths while warm prevents 
the escape of gas or steam, destroys the crispness of the 
crust, and robs the bread of much of its fine, nutty 
flavor. 

The quantity of flour necessary to be mixed with a 
certain quantity of wetting to make dough of the 
proper consistency for bread cannot be given accurately 
by weight or measure, without knowing the special 
brand of flour to be used, as the quantity varies accord- 
ing to the quality. But each quart of wetting will 
require from three pounds and ten ounces to three 
pounds and twelve ounces, or from seven to seven and 
one half pints of the best flour, and the amount of 
dough mixed from these proportions of wetting and 
flour will make four medium-sized loaves, or about five 
pounds, of good bread. 

The quantity of yeast used in bread-making is quite 
important, and if an insuflicient quantity is used the 
bread will be devoid of the rich, nutty flavor, which is a 
prominent characteristic of all good bread, and will 
frequently have a yeasty smell or taste. 

Bread is never improved by the addition of grease or 
sugar. Grease interferes with the perfect action of the 
yeast, and sugar destroys much of the fine flavor of the 
flour. The simplest, easiest, and best method of 
making bread that has yet been discovered is the 
method given above. The formula is that used by the 
Vienna bakers, who have for many years had the repu- 
tation of being the best bread-makers in the world. 
And all bread made in that manner is known as Vienna 
bread. 



I92 The Art of Cookery. 

Liquid Yeast. — Compressed yeast is on sale in most 
towns and villages, but as it cannot be obtained at all 
times and in all places every housekeeper should be ac- 
quainted with some approved method of making liquid 
yeast. Here is one that has been thoroughly tested : 
Steep an eighth of an ounce of pressed, or a small hand- 
ful of loose, hops in a quart of boiling water for about 
five minutes. Strain the boiling infusion upon half a 
pint of flour, stirred to a smooth paste with a little cold 
water, mix well, let boil a minute, add a tablespoonful of 
salt, two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, set aside till luke- 
warm, then stir in two half-ounce cakes of compressed 
yeast dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of cold water, or a 
gill of good liquid yeast. Let stand twenty-four hours, 
stirring occasionally, cover closely, and set in a cool 
place. Yeast made according to this method will keep 
sweet two or three weeks, and can be used any time 
during that period for mixing bread, or for starting a 
fresh supply of yeast. 

Liquid Yeast Bread. — Mash one medium-sized, well- 
boiled potato in an earthen bowl with half a teacupful of 
flour, and pour over it, stirring meanwhile, a quart of 
boiling water. Set the mixture aside until it gets luke- 
warm, then pour into it half a teacupful of liquid yeast, 
stir well, cover closely, and let stand till light. When it 
is perfectly light and foamy, which will be in about six 
hours if kept at the proper temperature, mix together 
equal portions of this ferment and warm sweet milk. 
Stir in sifted flour until a dough is formed sufliciently 
stiff" to be turned from the mixing bowl to the molding 
board in a mass, then proceed in every respect as when 



Bread- Making. 1 93 



making bread with compressed yeast. Bread made ac- 
cording to this method goes under the general name of 
home-made bread, and if all the conditions are carefully- 
complied with, it will be of good quality, but not nearly 
so good as Vienna bread. 

Imperial Rolls. — Divide a piece of Vienna bread 
dough, large enough for an ordinary sized loaf, into a 
dozen irregular pieces about half an inch in thickness. 
Take, separately, each of these pieces in the left hand, 
and slightly stretch with the thumb and forefinger of the 
right hand one of the irregular points over the left 
thumb, toward the center of the roll. Repeat this 
operation, turning the piece of dough as it proceeds, at 
each turn lifting the thumb and gently pressing it upon 
the last fold, until all the points have been drawn in, 
when the roll must be turned face, or smooth side, up- 
ward to rise, and when sufficiently risen must be reversed 
in position, or turned smooth side downward in the pan, 
and placed in the oven. If the folding is done properly, 
an imperial roll when baked will be composed of a suc- 
cession of sheets or layers of delicate, tenacious crumb, 
surrounded with a thin, crisp, tender crust. 

French Rolls No. i. — Take enough dough for a small 
loaf of bread, and divide it into four pieces. Roll each 
piece under the palms of the hands, upon the molding 
board, into a long roll not much thicker than one's 
thumb, lay in a suitable roll pan, let rise till sufficiently 
light, then bake. 

French Rolls No. 2. — Divide a piece of bread dough 
large enough for a small loaf of bread into twelve pieces. 
With the finger-tips knead each piece into a ball, then 



194 '^^ ^^^ ^f Cookery. 

roll under the palms of the hands, upon the molding 
board, until each is five or six inches in length — rolling 
at last upon the ends only, so as to make them pointed 
and smaller. Place two of these rolls together, and 
lifting one end of each roll upon the other, pinch 
together, lay in a flat, broad pan to rise, and brush over 
with melted butter. Leave half an inch space between 
the rolls so the crust of each roll may be perfect, and, 
when sufficiently light, bake in the pan in which they 
were put to rise. 

French Rolls No. 3. — Divide sufficient dough for a 
small loaf into twelve pieces. With the finger-tips 
knead each piece into a ball, and place these balls an 
inch apart, on a greased baking pan or floured board, to 
rise. Brush over with melted butter, and let stand half 
an hour at a temperature of seventy-five degrees, then 
take each ball separately, and with a rolling pin not 
larger than one's finger, press in the center of each 
roll, pushing the dough each way from the center, until 
the dough under the rolling pin is very thin and about 
an inch and a half in width. Lift up this double roll, 
stretch it until about an inch and a half longer, and lay 
it face downward upon a towel or cloth spread in a 
shallow pan, and close up against one side of the pan. 
Manipulate another of the rolls in the same manner and 
place beside the first, drawing up a portion of the towel 
between the rolls. Repeat the operation until all the 
rolls are in the pan. Let rise in this position half an 
hour, or until the rolls are very light, then lift carefully 
and place on a baking sheet or pan, face up, not allow- 
ing them to touch each other, and bake. 



Bread- Making . 195 



Crescents.— Roll the dough as directed for French 
Rolls No. 2, but twice as long, which will leave it only- 
half as large. Roll down at the ends to make them 
pointed. Place two of these long, slender rolls beside 
each other, and throwing them alternately over each 
other, twist them together, and pinch the ends close. 
Put them on a baking sheet or pan in the form of a 
crescent or horse shoe, and let them rise for an hour, or 
until light, then bake. 

Queen Ann Rolls.— Shape the dough as for French 
rolls, twist two of the rolls together as for crescents, lay- 
in Queen Ann pans or large roll pans, let stand an hour, 
or until light, then bake. 

Rolls of all kinds are more crisp and tender when 
baked quickly, and the oven should be hotter for rolls 
than for bread. They should also be considerably 
lighter than bread when put to bake, as they have but 
little opportunity to rise after they go in the oven, if it 
is hot enough to bake them properly. 

Federal Bread. — To a quart of either milk or water 
add a level teaspoon of salt and a cup of liquid yeast 
or two cakes of compressed yeast dissolved, then stir 
in flour enough to form a dough somewhat softer than 
for bread. Add a tablespoonful of melted butter, and 
three well-beaten eggs, pour into a baking dish or pan, 
let rise six or eight hours, or until thoroughly light, 
then bake. When baked, split crosswise in three or 
four sections, butter generously, and replace so the loaf 
will have its original shape. Serve warm. This is a 
favorite bread for breakfast and tea in some sections. 

Buns. — Two eggs, two cups boiling milk, half cup 



196 The Art of Cookery. 

sugar, half cup butter, one cake compressed yeast, flour 
enough to make a dough. Beat the eggs very light, 
pour over them, beating meanwhile, the boiling milk, 
then add the sugar and salt. Let the mixture cool until 
lukewarm, then add the yeast, dissolved in a little cold 
water, and stir in flour until a soft dough has been 
formed. Turn upon the molding board and knead in 
flour gradually until the dough becomes smooth and 
elastic, but not stiff enough for bread, then put in a 
greased bowl, and set to rise for five hours, or until 
light. When light work in the butter, but do not add 
any more flour, and let rise for an hour, or until light, 
then form into buns or balls the size desired, place in a 
greased pan about an inch apart, and again let rise for 
two hours, or until light, then bake in a moderate oven. 

Cinnamon Rolls. — Roll small pieces of bun dough, 
after it has risen the second time, into small rolls or 
sticks. Flatten with a limber knife and cover with 
melted butter, sugar, and cinnamon. Fold over and 
roll into circular cakes with one end in the center, and 
the other pinched to the outer surface, and place in a 
baking pan, an inch apart. Let rise two hours, and 
bake in a moderate oven. 

German Coffee Cake. — Roll a piece of bun dough 
after it has risen the second time into a sheet half an inch 
thick, lay on a shallow baking pan, cover with granulated 
sugar, then with cinnamon, and lastly with melted butter. 
Let rise for two hours, or until very light, then bake in a 
moderate oven. Sliced sour apple can be laid over the 
cake when light, or the sugar, cinnamon, and butter can 
be omitted, and the cake when light can be spread with 



Bread- Making. 197 



preserves, jam, or jelly, and baked in a moderate oven. 

Beaten Biscuit. — To two cups of flour add half a 
tablespoonful of lard and half a teaspoonful of salt. Rub 
the lard well through the flour, moisten gradually with 
half a cup of cold water, and work the dough until it 
will hold together, then beat with a mallet or heavy im- 
plement until it is pliable and blisters. When it reaches 
this condition roll out, cut into cakes the size desired, 
prick several times with a fork, and bake in a hot oven 
twenty-five minutes, or until nicely browned. 

Baking Powder Biscuit No. i. — Two cups of flour, 
one cup of sweet milk, two teaspoons baking powder, 
one half teaspoonful of salt. Sift the salt, baking 
powder, and flour together, add the milk, and beat to a 
smooth dough. Turn upon a well-floured molding 
board, dust with flour, and roll into a sheet about an 
inch in thickness. Dip the biscuit cutter in flour, cut 
the sheet of dough into cakes, lay in a baking pan, and 
bake in a quick oven until thoroughly done. 

Baking Powder Biscuit No. 2 — Two cups of flour, 
one cup sweet milk, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, 
two teaspoons baking powder, and half a teaspoonful of 
salt. Mix as in No. i, add the melted butter, after all 
the milk is in, beat well through the dough, then pro- 
ceed as before. 

Baking Powder Biscuit No. 3. — Two cups flour, one 
cup cold water, one tablespoon butter, two teaspoons 
baking powder, one half teaspoon salt. Sift the bak- 
ing powder and salt with the flour. Rub the butter 
through it with a limber-bladed knife, add the cold 
water, mix well with a spoon, then proceed as in No. i. 



198 The Art of Cookery. 

Wheat Muffins No. i. — One and a half cups of flour, 
one cup of sweet milk, one ^^'g, one tablespoonful of 
melted butter, a pinch of salt. Put the flour, yolk of 
^gg, butter, salt, and half the milk together in the mix- 
ing bowl, and beat until very light, then gradually add 
the balance of the milk, continuing the beating, and 
lastly beat the white of the ^%% stiff, and fold carefully 
into the mixture. Bake half an hour in a hot oven. 

Wheat Muffins No. 2. — Two cups of flour, one cup 
of sweet milk, two tablespoons of melted butter, two 
teaspoons of baking powder, a pinch of salt. Sift the 
baking powder and salt with the flour into the mixing 
bowl, add the milk, and beat well, then add the melted 
butter. Bake half an hour. 

Wheat Muffins No. 3. — One and a half cups of flour, 
one cup of sweet milk, two tablespoons of melted butter, 
two teaspoons of baking powder, two eggs, a pinch of 
salt. Sift the baking powder, salt, and flour into the 
mixing bowl, add the milk and yolks of eggs, beat until 
very light, then add the melted butter, and lastly the 
whites of the eggs beaten stifl". Bake half an hour. 

Rice Muffins. — One and a half cups of flour, one cup 
of sweet milk, one cup of boiled rice, two tablespoons of 
melted butter, two teaspoons of baking powder, two 
eggs. Sift the baking powder, salt, and flour into the 
mixing bowl, add the milk and yolks of eggs, beat until 
very light, add the melted butter, then the boiled rice, 
which stir evenly through the mixture with a fork, and 
lastly fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff". Bake 
half an hour. 

The formula for rice muffins is exactly the same as that 



Bread- Making . 199 

for Wheat Muffins No. 3, with the addition of a cup of 
boiled rice ; and although the rice enlarges the quantity 
of batter considerably it does not materially affect its 
consistency. The rice, in boiling, absorbs all the mois- 
ture it is capable of holding, hence in mixing it in the 
wheat muffin batter it is not necessary to use any addi- 
tional wetting. 

"Wheat Griddle Cakes No. i. — One and a half cups 
of flour, one cup of sweet milk, two level teaspoons of 
baking powder, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one 
^%%^ a pinch of salt. Sift the baking powder, salt, and 
flour together in the mixing bowl, add the milk, butter, 
and yolk of Q.g%, beat until very light, then fold in the 
white of the ^%% beaten stiff, and bake in cakes on a hot 
griddle. 

Wheat Griddle Cakes No. 2. — One and one half cups 
of flour, one cup of thick, sour milk, one teaspoon of soda, 
a pinch of salt. Sift the soda, salt, and flour together 
into the mixing bowl, add the sour milk, and stir with a 
spoon, but only until thoroughly mixed. Bake on a 
griddle. 

Wheat Griddle Cakes No. 3. — One and one half cups 
of flour, one cup of buttermilk, one teaspoon of soda, 
one ^%%, a pinch of salt. Sift the soda and salt with the 
flour, add the buttermilk and the Qg<g slightly beaten, 
stir all carefully together, and bake on a griddle. 

French Pancakes. — One cup of milk, half a cup of 
flour, three eggs, one tablespoonful of olive oil or melted 
butter, one teaspoonful of granulated sugar, half a 
teaspoonful of salt. Sift the flour, sugar, and salt 
together, add the oil, the yolks of the eggs, and one 



200 The Art of Cookery, 

third of the milk, and beat until very light, then gradu- 
ally add the remainder of the milk, stirring meanwhile, 
and lastly fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. 
Put a teaspoonful of butter or olive oil on the griddle, 
and when hot pour upon it one third of the batter. 
Turn when brown, and when baked lift from the griddle, 
and spread with powdered sugar and cinnamon ; or 
spread lightly with any rich preserve or marmalade, 
roll up, dust the outside with pulverized sugar, sear 
with a hot iron, and serve at breakfast or luncheon, or 
as an entree at dinner. 

Flannel Cakes. — Two cups lukewarm water, one and 
one half cups flour, one and one half cups corn-meal, 
half a teaspoonful salt, half a cup of home-made, or 
half a cake of compressed, yeast. Add the yeast and 
salt to the water, mix the flour and meal together, and 
stir them into it. Let stand over night, or until light, 
then bake on a griddle. If the batter should become 
sour by standing over night stir into it half a teaspoonful 
of soda dissolved in warm water. Milk can be used 
instead of water for mixing the batter. 

Bread Cakes. — Two cups bread crumbs, two cups 
boiling milk, one cup cold milk, one cup flour, one 
tablespoonful butter, one teaspoonful baking powder, 
two eggs. Pour the boiling milk over the bread 
crumbs, add the butter, cover, and let stand over night, 
or till cold. Mash to a smooth paste, beat Into it the 
yolks of the eggs, add gradually the cold milk, then 
add the flour and baking powder sifted together, and 
lastly the whites of the eggs beaten stifl". Bake, in 
small cakes, on a griddle, until nicely browned. 



Bread- Making, 201 



"Waffles No. i. — Two cups sweet milk, three cups 
flour, one tablespoonful of butter, half a cake of com- 
pressed yeast, or half a cup of liquid yeast, a level 
teaspoon of salt. Boil the milk, add the butter and 
salt, and set aside till lukewarm, then stir gradually into 
the flour, and lastly add the yeast. Beat well and let 
stand over night. Give the batter a thorough beating 
in the morning and bake in greased waflie irons. 

Waffles No. 2. — Two cups sweet milk, three cups 
flour, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, a level teaspoon- 
ful salt, three eggs, half a cake of compressed, or a gill 
of liquid, yeast. Boil the milk, and when lukewarm 
add the salt and yeast and stir gradually into the flour. 
Beat well and let stand over night. In the morning add 
the melted butter, then the yolks of the eggs, one at a 
time, beating each one thoroughly in the batter before 
adding another, and lastly add the whites beaten stiff". 

Waffles No. 3. — Two cups cold sweet milk, three cups 
flour, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, two teaspoons 
baking powder, one level teaspoon salt, two eggs. Mix 
the baking powder, salt, and flour together, stir the cold 
milk in gradually, add the melted butter, then the yolks, 
and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten separately. 
Bake at once. 

Buckwheat Cakes No. i. — To a quart of cold water 
add a half ounce of compressed yeast dissolved, or a 
cup of liquid yeast, and a level teaspoon of salt, then 
stir in buckwheat flour enough to make a thick batter. 
Set in a warm place till light, then beat thoroughly, and 
put in a cool place till next morning. In the morning 
beat the batter, take out a cupful, and set aside to start 



202 The Art of Cookery, 

the next mixing with ; add a quarter of a teaspoonful of 
soda dissolved in warm water, and sufficient warm milk 
to thin the batter to the consistency desired. Set in a 
warm place for half an hour, or until ready to bake. 

Buckwheat Cakes No. 2. — Stir into a quart of boiling 
water in which a teaspoonful of salt has been dissolved 
half a cup of corn-meal wet with a little cold water, and 
cook well. Let cool till lukewarm, then stir in half a 
cup of wheat flour, three cups of buckwheat flour, and a 
gill of soft yeast, or a small cake of compressed yeast, 
dissolved in two spoonfuls of cold water, and set in a 
moderately warm place until light. Just before baking, 
add half a teaspoonful of soda to the batter, and thin, if 
necessary, with a little warm water. 

These cakes when intended for breakfast should be set 
to rise at noon the previous day. By eight or nine 
o'clock in the evening they will be light, and should then 
be well beaten and set in a cool place during the night. 

Pop-Overs. — One cup of flour, one cup of sweet milk, 
one ^%%, and a pinch of salt. Put the ^%<g, flour, salt, and 
half the milk together in a small bowl, and with a Dover 
beater whip very light, then gradually add the balance 
of the milk. Half fill deep gem pans, and bake forty-five 
minutes in an oven at the same temperature as for bread. 

As a general rule it is advisable to beat the yolks of 
the eggs with the batter, and to beat the whites sepa- 
rately and fold them carefully into the batter at the very 
last. But in all very thin batters it is best to beat the 
eggs, without separating the whites and yolks, with the 
flour and a portion of the milk, as in pop-overs and 
similar mixtures. 



Bread- Making . 203 



Strawberry Shortcake. — Two cups of flour, one cup 
sweet milk, two tablespoons melted butter, two teaspoons 
baking powder, one half teaspoon salt. Sift the salt, 
baking powder, and flour together, add the milk, then 
the melted butter, and beat to a smooth dough. Turn 
on to a well-floured molding board, dust over with 
flour, and roll into a sheet half an inch in thickness. 
Cut into large cakes and bake in a moderate oven. 
When thoroughly baked, pull the crust apart with a 
fork, put bits of butter here and there over the inside, 
let stand a minute to soften, then spread gently so as not 
to pack the soft crumb of the surface. When all the 
cakes are buttered in this manner lay two or three of 
them, crust down, on a platter or shallow dish, cover 
with strawberries that have been sweetened and stood in 
a warm place while the cakes were baking, then place 
other halves, crust down, upon these, cover with the pre- 
pared strawberries in the same manner, and so place a 
third layer of the shortcake and again cover with berries, 
being careful to have the berries most plentiful upon the 
upper layer. Cut the shortcake into quarters and serve. 

Orange Shortcake. — Stew sour apples and mix while 
warm with an equal portion of orange marmalade. 
Spread upon shortcake prepared as for strawberries. 

Raspberry Shortcake. — Prepare, bake, and butter the 
shortcake exactly as directed for strawberry shortcake, 
then spread with raspberries, sweetened to taste and 
slightly warmed. 

Banana Shortcake. — Prepare the shortcake as directed 
for strawberry shortcake and spread with bananas pre- 
pared in this manner : To the juice of one lemon add a 



204 The Art of Cookery, 

cup of granulated sugar, warm enough to melt the sugar, 
slice into it four bananas, with a wooden spoon mash and 
beat into a pulp. Use the same as strawberries or rasp- 
berries. 

Pine- Apple Shortcake. — Prepare and bake the short- 
cake the same as for strawberry shortcake. Cook 
together one cup of water and two cups of granulated 
sugar until the sugar is dissolved, then thicken with a 
tablespoonful of arrow-root mixed with two tablespoon- 
fuls of cold water. Simmer five minutes, remove from 
the fire, add the syrup from a can of flaked pine-apple, 
and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. While slightly 
warm add the flaked pine-apple, mix well, and spread 
upon the buttered shortcake. 

Cornstarch can be used in place of arrow-root, but it 
is not so delicate in flavor. 

Graham Bread. — To each pint of lukewarm wetting 
composed of equal portions of sweet milk and water, 
add a tablespoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
and a half-ounce cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in 
two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Then stir in with a 
wooden spoon a heaping quart of graham flour, or as 
much more as may be necessary to form a dough sufli- 
ciently stiff to be removed in a mass from the mixing 
bowl. Turn the dough on to the molding board well 
sprinkled with white flour, and knead, adding white 
flour until the dough ceases to stick to the fingers, or 
molding board. Then proceed exactly as for white 
flour bread, being careful not to make the dough so stiff 
as for white bread. 

Molasses can be used instead of sugar, in making 



Bread- Making. 205 



graham bread, but it makes the bread dark-colored and 
sticky, and renders it liable to become sour or moldy 
in hot weather, if kept two or three days. Bread is 
made in the same manner from entire wheat, whole 
wheat, and peeled wheat flour. The sugar may be 
omitted from any of them, when desired. Graham 
bread requires to be baked a considerably longer time 
than white flour bread, as does also bread made of 
either whole wheat, entire wheat, or peeled wheat flour. 
Consequently the loaves should be smaller and should 
be baked at a somewhat lower temperature. 

There is so much inferior graham flour in market — 
made by mixing an undue proportion of bran with low 
grade white flour — that the only way to make satisfac- 
tory or even half-way decent bread of it is to sift out a 
large portion of the bran, and mix with the residue at 
least twenty per cent of the highest grade white flour. 
And where good graham flour cannot be obtained it is 
always best to do this before using. When it is of good 
quality it does not need to have any bran sifted out, and 
no white flour should be added. 

Graham Diamonds. — Add a teaspoonful each of gran- 
ulated sugar and salt to a quart of graham flour. Pour 
boiling water upon it until thoroughly scalded. Work 
into a soft dough and roll out to about half an inch in 
thickness, then with a sharp knife cut into diamonds or 
squares, place in a baking pan, and bake in a hot oven 
half an hour, or until well baked and crisp. 

Plain Graham Gems. — Dissolve a teaspoonful of 
sugar and half a teaspoonful of salt into two cups of cold 
milk and water mixed in equal proportions, and stir 



2o6 The Art of Cookery. 

briskly into it three cups of graham flour. Pour the 
mixture into well-greased gem pans, filling each cup of 
the pan about half full, and bake in a quick oven until 
brown. 

Graham Gems with Eggs. — To two cups of cold 
milk and water mixed in equal proportions add the 
beaten yolks of two eggs, stir in two cups of graham 
flour with which a teaspoonful of sugar and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt have been mixed, then add the whites 
of the eggs beaten stifl", pour into greased gem pans, 
and bake half an hour, or until brown. 

Graham Gems with Sour Milk. — Beat together one 
cup of sour milk or cream, one teaspoonful of salt, half 
a teaspoonful of soda, and a cup and a half of graham 
flour, and bake in greased gem pans. 

Graham Gems with Sweet Milk. — Beat together one 
cup of sweet milk, one tablespoonful of melted butter, 
one teaspoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, one 
^%%-, and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Stir in 
one and a half cups of graham flour, and bake in greased 
gem pans. 

Muflin rings can be used for baking these gems in, but 
mufiin pans are much better. If iron pans are used they 
should be hot when the batter is put into them, and 
should be placed in the oven where the greatest heat 
will be at the bottom, so the gems may rise to their full- 
est capacity before browning on top. It is frequently 
advisable to set the pan on top of the stove about a 
minute before putting it in the oven, that it may heat 
thoroughly and thus facilitate the rising of the gems. 

Boston Brown Bread. — Two cups corn-meal, two 



Bread- Making . 207 



cups graham flour, one cup New Orleans molasses, three 
cups sour milk or buttermilk, three even teaspoons soda, 
two even teaspoons salt. Mix together the meal, flour, 
soda, and salt, add the molasses and milk, stir thor- 
oughly, pour into a well-greased mold, cover closely, 
and steam four or five hours. 

Oatmeal Rolls. — To a quart of cooked oatmeal, cold, 
add a cup of white, graham, or whole wheat flour, mix 
thoroughly, and pack smoothly into a broad pan an inch 
deep. When wanted for use cut into circular cakes with 
a floured biscuit cutter, or into strips any desired length, 
with a knife, lay in a greased or floured pan, and bake 
until nicely browned. 

Cracked Wheat Rolls. — Use cracked wheat mush in 
place of oatmeal and make and bake in the same manner. 

Oatmeal Muffins. — To four cups of oatmeal mush add 
one cup of flour, one tablespoonful of butter, one cup of 
cold sweet milk, and the yolks of two eggs. Beat well 
together, and then add the whites of the eggs beaten 
stifl". Bake in hot gem pans or in muflin rings. 

Cracked Wheat Muffins. — Use cracked or rolled wheat 
mush instead of oatmeal, and make and bake in the 
same manner. 

CORN-MEAL. 

The roller mill has worked as great an improvement 
in corn-meal as it has in flour, and the corn-meal of to- 
day is vastly superior in quality to the corn-meal of 
twenty-five years ago, and requires very different hand- 
ling. And yet the recipes given in most cook-books pre- 
scribe * * one cup of wheat flour and two cups of corn- 
meal," or else "two cups of wheat flour and one cup of 



2o8 The Art of Cookery. 

corn-meal, ' ' for making all kinds of corn-bread. These 
are the formulas that were in vogue when bolted corn- 
meal was the only meal manufactured and used, and if 
they produced satisfactory results with bolted meal, they 
certainly do not when granulated meal is used. Such a 
mixture — whether the meal be bolted or granulated — 
does not make bread of any kind of a very high charac- 
ter ; but, be its character high or low, it has no legitimate 
claim to the title of corn-bread. For bread-making pur- 
poses wheat flour and corn-meal have no affinity what- 
ever, as one requires scalding and the other does not. 
Corn-meal requires a good deal of cooking to develop 
its finest flavor, and make it palatable and healthful ; and 
the main point in making good corn-bread is to scald the 
meal thoroughly. The water used for scalding meal 
should be boiling, and that none of its efficacy be lost 
it is desirable that the vessel in which the dough is 
mixed, and the spoon with which it is stirred, should be 
warm. There is a vast diflerence in the quality of corn- 
bread made with scalded meal and that made with meal 
which has been merely soaked with warm water. Almost 
every kind of corn-bread is better for being cooked from 
forty to sixty minutes, and if the meal is not thoroughly 
scalded when mixed it should be baked considerably 
longer. Granulated meal makes much lighter, drier, 
sweeter, and more delicious bread than bolted meal, and 
is preferable for all culinary purposes. But it should be 
always thoroughly scalded with boiling water or milk 
before it is made into bread or cakes, and whenever cold 
milk is used it should be added gradually. There are 
several grades of granulated meal — some being quite 



Bread- Making . 209 



coarse and some very fine — and as the coarse will absorb 
fully twice as much water as the fine in the process of 
scalding, it requires the exercise of judgment to have 
the dough of the proper consistency — neither too soft 
nor too stiff. The formulas here given are for meal of 
medium fineness. If the meal used is very coarse more 
liquid will be required, if very fine less liquid. 

Corn Dodgers. — One cup of granulated corn-meal, 
three fourths of a cup of boiling water, half a cup of cold 
sweet milk, one heaping teaspoon sugar, one level tea- 
spoon salt. Mix the salt and sugar with the meal, pour 
the boiling water over the mixture, and when thoroughly 
scalded add the cold milk gradually, and stir well. 
The dough should be sufficiently stiff to retain its shape 
without spreading, when placed upon the griddle. Put 
a piece of butter about the size of a pea upon the grid- 
dle, where the cake is to be placed, and as soon as it 
melts drop a spoonful of the dough upon it. Fill the 
griddle in this manner with cakes, and when they are 
browned on the under side, place a bit of butter upon 
each of them, turn them over, and gently press as close 
to the griddle as possible, with a knife or cake paddle. 
After being turned on the griddle and browned on both 
sides, the cakes can be transferred to a baking pan, and 
finished in a hot oven ; or if more convenient they can 
be baked, without the griddle being used, on a baking 
pan in the oven. Such cakes or dodgers can be baked 
in thirty minutes, but are sweeter and nicer when baked 
a longer time. The heat should be moderate so as not 
to burn the cakes, and if necessary they can be turned 
several times while baking. 



2IO The Art of Cookery. 

Corn Crusts. — One cup of granulated meal, three 
fourths of a cup of boiling water, half a cup of cold 
sweet milk, one heaping teaspoon of sugar, one level 
teaspoon of salt, one tablespoonful of butter, one ^%'g. 
Mix the salt and sugar with the meal, scald the mixture 
with the boiling water, add the butter, then the cold 
milk gradually, and stir well. When the dough is 
sufficiently cool beat in the ^%%^ spread thin in a greased 
pan, and bake in a quick oven. If the dough should be 
too stiff to shape smooth in the pan, it can be thinned to 
the proper consistency with a little more milk or water. 

Corn-Bread. — One cup of granulated corn-meal, one 
and one quarter cups boiling milk, one tablespoonful of 
butter, one heaping teaspoonful of sugar, one level tea- 
spoonful of salt, two eggs. Mix the meal, salt, and 
sugar together, scald with boiling milk, add the butter, 
and, when the mixture is sufficiently cool, stir in the 
yolks and whites of the eggs, beaten separately. Bake 
in loaves. 

Corn Muffins No. i. — One cup of granulated corn- 
meal, three fourths cup of boiling water, one half cup 
cold sweet milk, one heaping teaspoonful of sugar, one 
level teaspoon of salt, one ^^%. Mix the sugar and salt 
with the meal, scald with the boiling water, add the cold 
milk gradually, stir in the ^%%, and bake in muffin cups, 
or in shallow pie pans. 

Corn Muffins No. 2. — One cup granulated corn-meal, 
three fourths of a cup of boiling water, one half of a 
cup of cold sweet milk, one cup of boiled rice, one 
heaping teaspoonful of sugar, one level teaspoonful of 
salt, one tablespoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of 



Bread- Making. 211 



baking powder, two eggs. Mix the salt and sugar with 
the meal, scald with the boiling water, add the butter, 
then the milk, then the eggs, then stir in the rice, then 
lastly add the baking powder. Bake in muffin cups or 
pie pans. 

Corn Griddle Cakes No. i — One cup of granulated 
corn-meal, three fourths of a cup of boiling water, half 
a cup of cold sweet milk, one heaping teaspoonful of 
sugar, one level teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of 
flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one ^^%. Mix 
the sugar and salt with the meal, scald with the boiling 
water, stir in the q.%^, add the flour and baking powder, 
beat well, and bake in small cakes on the griddle. 

Corn Griddle Cakes No. 2. — One cup of granulated 
corn-meal, one cup of boiling water, three fourths of a 
cup of sweet milk, half a cup of flour, one teaspoonful 
of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of 
butter, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one ^%%. 
Put together and bake the same as Griddle Cakes No. i. 

Corn-meal Mush. — Three cups of boiling water, one 
cup of corn-meal, half a cup of cold water, one tea- 
spoonful of salt. Moisten the meal with the cold water, 
and stir the mixture gradually into the boiling water, to 
which the salt has been added. Cook thirty minutes, 
stirring occasionally to keep it from sticking to the 
kettle and burning, then move to the back of the stove, 
and let simmer gently an hour, or until ready to serve. 

If the mush is to be used for frying, moisten the meal 
with cold milk instead of water — as it will brown easier 
— and after it has cooked half an hour turn it into a pan 
or mold that has been wet with cold water, and let cool. 



212 The Art of Cookery. 

Hominy Rolls. — To four cups of boiled, granulated 
hominy, add, while hot, one cup of corn-meal, mix 
thoroughly, form into cakes or rolls, and bake on a 
griddle like corn dodgers. 

Hominy Muffins. — To four cups of boiled, granulated 
hominy, add, while hot, one cup of corn-meal, one cup 
of cold sweet milk, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 
and the yolks of two eggs. Mix thoroughly, then add 
the whites of the eggs beaten stiff, and bake in muffin 
cups, or shallow pie pans. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

PASTRY AND PIE. 

Pie, when properly made, is perhaps as healthful an.! 
nutritious as any of the ordinary articles of food. And 
if properly-made pie ever produces indigestion it is because 
it is eaten between meals, or at the close of a meal when 
the stomach is overloaded with food. There are several 
varieties of pastry or pie crust, some of them especially 
adapted to certain kinds of pies, but any of which can 
be used whenever pastry or paste is required, and none 
of which need be indigestible. 

Puff Paste. — For each pound of flour use a pound of 
butter. Spread a napkin in a pan of cold water. Put 
the butter in the napkin and work with a wooden spoon, 
carefully keeping the napkin between the butter and the 
spoon, until the butter becomes pliable and waxy. Shape 
the butter into a compact roll, and flatten until not more 
than an inch thick. Mix the flour, an eighth of the 
butter, and an egg with suflicient water to form a stiff, 
smooth paste. Work the paste well with the tips of the 
fingers. Beat five or ten minutes with the rolling pin, 
doubling and folding frequently, and using flour to keep 
it from sticking to the molding board or rolling pin. 
When the paste becomes light and pufly, roll it out, cir- 
cular in shape, until about an inch thick. Lay the flat- 
tened lump of butter in the center of the rolled-out 

213 



214 The Art of Cookery. 

paste. Fold the paste over from each side, so as to 
cover the butter and leave the paste oblong in shape, 
and twice as long as wide. Press the rolling pin on it in 
three or four places, to hold the folded paste together, 
roll out gently with a light, even pressure until about an 
inch in thickness, then wrap it toward you, over the 
rolling pin, lift from the table, turn the upper surface 
downward, and again roll out till not more than three 
fourths of an inch in thickness, and about three times as 
long as wide. Fold this oblong strip over toward the 
middle twice, using a third of its length in each fold, 
then turn it at right angles on the table. Press the roll- 
ing pin on it three or four times, as before, roll down to 
an inch in thickness, turn over on the table, upper side 
downward, and roll out exactly as before, until the paste 
again assumes an oblong shape. Perform this operation 
six times, then brush the upper surface of the paste with 
lemon juice, fold over twice as at first, lay in a shallow 
pan, and place on ice for several hours. After it be- 
comes thoroughly chilled it can be rolled out to the re- 
quired thickness, cut in the form desired, and baked in 
an oven at 375 degrees, or about the same temperature 
as for bread. 

As it is necessary to keep puff paste cold it should be 
made in a cold room, at an open window, and after each 
turn of the paste it should be laid carefully in a shallow 
pan and placed on ice until chilled, but not frozen. 
During the entire process of making puff paste, flour — 
in addition to that allowed for making the paste — should 
be sprinkled freely on the molding board and rolling pin 
whenever they are used ; but each time the paste is to 



Pastry and Pie, 215 



be folded, all adhering flour should be carefully brushed 
from the upper surface with a pastry brush, before the 
rolling is begun. 

To make vol-au-vents, or small patty cases, cut them, 
from the rolled-out paste, in circular or diamond shapes, 
with a tin cutter or a sharp knife, lift to a baking sheet 
with a broad-bladed knife, cut lightly into the top of 
each with a small cutter, and, when baked, remove the 
cut top, pick out the unbaked paste, and replace the 
little covers. Fill the cases with any mixture desired and 
serve. 

Flaky Pie Crust. — ^Three cups of flour, half a cup of 
butter, half a cup of lard, three fourths of a cup of ice 
water. 

Sift the flour into a chopping bowl, add the butter and 
lard, and chop with a hash knife until no pieces of the 
shortening larger than a pea can be seen. Then sprinkle 
the ice water here and there through the flour, and mix 
with a fork into a rather soft dough or paste. Pile upon 
a well-floured kneading board, dust lightly with flour, 
press down with the rolling pin, and roll gently back and 
forth until the paste becomes an oblong sheet not more 
than half an inch in thickness. Slip a broad-bladed 
knife under each end of this sheet, and fold over toward 
the center, thus forming three layers of the paste. Lift, 
with the knife, from the board — which dust with fresh 
flour — ^lay it at right angles with the position it occupied 
v^hen lifted, dust with flour, roll out, and again fold over 
as before. Repeat the operation, and the paste is ready 
to lay aside for future use, or to roll into form and use at 
once. 



2i6 The Art of Cookery. 

When the ice water is added to the flour and shorten- 
ing, the shortening becomes distributed through the 
flour in small balls, and if the mixing is done lightly it 
remains as balls and is not packed together in a mass, 
and when the dough is drawn together and lightly 
pressed with the rolling pin these balls flatten into flakes, 
which, by repeated foldings, are piled one upon another, 
and by gentle rolling become thinner and more delicate. 
Three rollings and foldings are as much as these flakes 
will bear. Rolling and folding a greater number of 
times causes them to become broken and packed, so that 
the paste will not rise and pufl" up, as it should, in 
baking. 

It is well to let the paste lie on ice, or in a cold place, 
for an hour before rolling it out for pies, as its quality is 
improved by so doing ; and if the weather is warm it 
may advantageously be placed on ice ten minutes between 
each rolling out. If a teaspoonful of baking powder be 
sifted with the flour, less shortening can be used, but the 
pastry will not be as crisp and delicate. 

Suet Pastry. — To three cups of flour add one cup of 
finely shredded beef suet, three teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder, and one teaspoonful of salt. Mix, with cold 
water, or cold sweet milk, to a soft dough. 

Egg Pastry. — To one ^g%, slightly beaten, add a pinch 
of salt, a tablespoonful of melted butter, and flour 
sufficient to make a soft dough. Knead in the flour with 
the finger-tips until the dough is smooth and very elastic, 
and can be kneaded without flour and without sticking to 
the molding board. When properly made, ^^'g paste 
can be rolled as thin as a sheet of paper. 



Pastry and Pie. 217 

Potato Pastry. — To two cups of finely mashed boiled 
potato add a tablespoonful of melted butter, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and half a cup of flour. Work together 
into a smooth dough. 

Apple Pie No. i. — Roll a piece of flaky pie crust to 
the thickness desired. Place upon a pie pan or dish, 
shaping it carefully to the dish, and cut off around the 
edges with a sharp knife. Cover the bottom of the 
crust with a thin layer of sugar, dust with flour, then fill 
the crust with quarters of pared and cored apples. Dust 
them lighdy with salt, and generously with sugar — 
especially if they are very tart — roll an upper crust and 
lay over them, trim around the edges as before, press 
the upper and lower crusts together lightly, and bake 
half an hour, or until the apples are soft, and the top and 
bottom crusts are both nicely browned. 

Apple Pie No. 2. — Roll the paste and fill with apples 
as above. Dust lightly with salt only, fit on the upper 
crust, but do not press the crusts together at the edges, 
and bake until the apples are cooked and the crusts 
nicely browned. Take from the oven, slip from the tin 
or pan in which it was baked to a warm plate on which 
it is to be served. Remove the upper crust carefully, 
season the apples to taste with sugar, replace the upper 
crust, and serve warm. 

Apple Pie No. 3. — Make and bake like Pie No. 2. 
Take from the oven, remove the upper crust, pour over 
the apple a dressing made by cooking together two table- 
spoonfuls of orange juice, a quarter of the peel of an 
orange, grated, and enough sugar to sweeten the pie, 
Replace the upper crust and serv^e warm. 



21 8 The Art of Cookery. 

English Apple Pie No. i. — Butter lightly an earthen 
or granite-ware pie or pudding dish, and sprinkle sugar 
over the bottom. Rinse the quarters of pared and cored 
apples in cold water, put them in the dish, dust lightly 
with salt, sweeten to taste with sugar, cover with a sheet 
of paste, and bake until well done. 

English Apple Pie No. 2. — Lay halves of pared and 
cored apples, inside down, on an earthen or granite-ware 
dish, buttered and sprinkled with sugar. Season like Eng- 
lish Apple Pie No. i , cover with a paste, rolled somewhat 
thicker than ordinary pie crust, and bake till well done. 
Serve as apple dumpling, with sweet cream. Or omit 
the seasoning in the pie and serve with a sweet sauce, 
either hard or liquid. 

New England Apple Pie. — Cover a deep earthen or 
granite-ware pie pan or a shallow pudding dish with 
paste, dust flour over the bottom, fill with quarters of 
apples pared and cored, and cover generously with New 
Orleans molasses. Fit on an upper crust, and make a 
few slits in it to allow the steam to escape, and bake 
slowly until brown and crisp. Serve with sweet cream. 
Or the bottom crust may be omitted, and the top crust 
made twice as thick as ordinary pie crust. This is a 
very delicious pie peculiar to New England, and is fre- 
quently called ''pan-dowdy." 

Apple Strudels. — Roll out a piece of ^^% pastry until 
it is large enough to cover a pie pan, but only half as 
thick as flaky pie crust. Cover it nearly to the edge 
with sour apples sliced very thin and seasoned to taste 
with sugar and ground cinnamon. Roll up like a roly- 
poly, pinch the edges securely together, lay upon a 



Pastry and Pie. 219 



greased pan, and bake half an hour, or until cooked. 
Serve warm. 

Strudels may be made in a similar manner of other 
fruit. 

Raspberry Pie No. i. — To two cups of raspberries 
add one cup of ripe currants and one heaping cup of 
granulated sugar, with which a tablespoonful of flour has 
been mixed, and stir all well together. Line the sides 
of a shallow pudding dish with flaky pie crust, put in 
the fruit, cover with a tolerably thick sheet of the paste, 
make several incisions for the escape of steam, and 
bake till the crusts are nicely browned. Serve cool. 

Raspberry Pie No. 2. — Prepare the fruit as in Rasp- 
berry Pie No. I and bake between two crusts in pie pans. 

Strawberry Pie No. i. — Two cups of strawberries, 
three fourths of a cup of granulated sugar, one table- 
spoonful of flour. Mix the sugar with the flour, then 
with the berries, and bake between two crusts in pie pans. 

Strawberry Pie No. 2. — Line a pie pan with paste, 
fill with white tissue paper, cover carefully with a sheet 
of paste, being careful not to press the edges of the 
upper and under crusts together, and bake till a nice 
brown. Take from the oven, slip to a warm plate, re- 
move the top crust, take out the paper, fill the pie with 
fruit prepared as for Strawberry Pie No. i , and cooked 
in a sauce-pan while the crusts were baking, replace the 
top crust, and serve when cool. 

Blackberry Pie. — Blackberry pie can be made in the 
same manner as strawberry pie. If the berries are very 
acid the same quantity of sugar will be necessary ; if 
very sweet only half as much will be required. 



220 The Art of Cookery. 

Huckleberry Pie. — Huckleberry pie may be made in 
the same manner as blackberry pie, but will be improved 
by adding to the huckleberries one third as many ripe 
currants as are to be used of huckleberries. 

Gooseberry Pie. — Cover the gooseberries with cold 
water, and heat to boiling point, then drain off the water, 
and make the gooseberries into pies after either of the 
methods given for making strawberry pies. 

Pie-plant Pie. — Wash the pie-plant and cut in pieces 
half an inch long. Put it in a sauce-pan, cover with 
cold water, heat to boiling point, then drain. To two 
cups of the drained pie-plant add three fourths of a cup 
of sugar with which a tablespoonful of flour has been 
mixed. Roll out the under crust, fit it to the pie pan, 
and fill with the prepared plant. Cover with a layer of 
paste, make an incision for the escape of steam, and 
bake until the crust is brown and crisp. 

Cherry Pie. — Pick over and wash two cups of sour 
cherries, add to them one cup of granulated sugar and 
a tablespoonful of flour, mixed together. Line the 
sides of an earthen or granite- ware pudding dish with 
paste, fill with the prepared cherries, and cover with a 
sheet of paste, rolled twice as thick as ordinary pie 
crust. Make several incisions near the center for the 
escape of steam, and bake till the crust is a nice brown. 
If the cherries are sweet use less sugar. 

Damson Pie. — Pies may be made of damsons or other 
varieties of plums by following the method given for 
cherry pie. The sugar must be proportioned to suit the 
acidity of the damsons or plums used. 

Grape Pie. — To two cups of grapes, add half a cup of 



Pastry and Pie. 221 

sugar and a tablespoonful of flour, mixed together — 
unless the grapes are very sour, when more sugar must 
be used — and bake between two crusts in a deep pie pan. 
Peach Pie. — Line the sides of a granite or earthen- 
ware pudding dish with paste, fill with medium-sized 
ripe, but not soft, peaches, that have been pared, add to 
each quart of peaches a cup of granulated sugar and a 
tablespoonful of flour, mixed together, and cover with a 
thick sheet of paste. Bake till well done, and when cool 
serve with sweet cream. 

Pumpkin Pie. — To two cups of stewed pumpkin add 
one cup of rich sweet milk, half a cup of New Orleans 
molasses, half a cup of granulated sugar, one table- 
spoonful of melted butter, one tablespoonful of ginger, 
one even teaspoonful of salt, and two eggs beaten very- 
light. Stir well together, line a deep tin pie pan with 
paste rolled moderately thick, sift a little flour evenly 
over the bottom, and fill about three quarters full with 
the prepared mixture. Bake until the pie is brown in 
the center, serve cool or cold. The quality of pumpkin 
pie depends largely upon the manner of cooking the 
pumpkin. In preparing the pumpkin use very little 
water. Cover the ketde, in which it is cooking, closely, 
and stew until the pumpkin is perfectly soft, then 
remove the cover and continue the stewing, stirring 
frequendy until the moisture evaporates and the 
pumpkin becomes a smooth paste. Rub through a fine 
sieve and use for filling the pie crust or paste. 

Sweet Potato Pie. — To two cups of boiled sweet 
potato, rubbed through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls 
each of butter and lemon juice, a cup of sugar in which 



222 The Art of Cookery. 

have been mixed half the grated rind of a lemon, a table- 
spoonful each of ginger and cinnamon, a level teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and a fourth of a nutmeg grated. Stir all 
well together, add gradually two cups of milk and the 
beaten yolks of three eggs, and lastly add the whites of 
the eggs beaten stiff. Fit the paste to the pie pan, dust 
it with flour, fill, and bake as directed for pumpkin pie. 

White potato may be used in the same manner as 
sweet potato for making pie. 

Squash Pie. — To two cups of steamed squash, rubbed 
through a sieve, add one tablespoon ful each of butter, 
ginger, and cinnamon, half a teaspoonful of salt, a fourth 
of a grated nutmeg, one cup of sugar, two cups of hot 
milk, and three eggs, beaten light. Make, bake, and 
serve like pumpkin pie. 

Custard Pie. — To half a cup granulated sugar add one 
tablespoonful of cornstarch, mix well, stir it into two 
cups of milk, boiling hot, and simmer five minutes. 
When cool add three well-beaten eggs and a pinch of 
salt. Line a deep pie pan with paste, dust with flour, 
and fill three quarters full with the mixture. Bake in a 
moderate oven until firm in the center. Grate nutmeg 
over the top and serve cool. 

Lemon Pie No. i. — Half a cup of lemon juice, a cup 
and a half of granulated sugar, quarter of a cup of 
butter, three eggs, grated peel of a lemon, one cup of 
Bread Crumbs No. 2, or stale sponge cake crumbs. 
Strain the lemon juice over the crumbs and soak half an 
hour, cream the butter, add gradually half the sugar, 
then, one at a time, the yolks of the eggs, then the bal- 
ance of the sugar, with the lemon peel, and a pinch of 



Pastry and Pie. 223 



salt. With a fork mix the crumbs well with the lemon 
juice, and stir them into the butter and sugar, beating 
them well, then add the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. 
Bake and serve like custard pie. 

Lemon Pie No. 2. — Two cups of boiling water, a cup 
and a half of sugar, half a cup of lemon juice, a table- 
spoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of cornstarch, grated 
peel of a lemon, three eggs. Mix the sugar and corn- 
starch well together, add them to the boiling water, and 
cook five minutes. Remove from the fire, add the but- 
ter, lemon juice, and peel, and lastly the eggs, beaten 
very light. Line a deep pie pan with paste, dust with 
flour, fill three fourths full with the mixture, and bake in 
a moderate oven till firm in the center. When cold sift 
powdered sugar over it and serve. 

Orange Pie. — Follow the directions given for lemon 
pie, substituting orange peel for lemon peel. 

Vanilla Cream Pie. — Mix together a tablespoonful of 
cornstarch and half a cup of granulated sugar, and add 
two cups of boiling milk. Cook five minutes, then 
add slowly, stirring rapidly while adding, three well- 
beaten eggs. Continue the cooking about half a minute, 
or until the ^^% is delicately cooked but not curdled, 
then remove from the fire and stir into the mixture a 
tablespoonful of butter. When the butter is perfectly 
mixed with the custard add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and 
pour into a freshly baked tart shell. 

Orange cream pie and lemon cream pie may be made 
by using orange or lemon extract in place of vanilla, 
and following in all other respects the formula for vanilla 
cream pie. 



224 "^^^ ^^^ ^f Cookery. 

Tart Shells. — Line a deep pie pan with flaky pie 
crust, cover it with paraffine paper, fill with bread, cut 
in dice, or with almond shells, to keep the paper and 
crust in place, and bake. Lift out the paper, and fill the 
shell with any cream or tart mixture desired. The diced 
bread after being browned in the tart shell can be used in 
soups, or stewed tomatoes, or may be rolled into crumbs. 

Cranberry Tart. — To a quart of cranberries add a 
pint of boiling water, cover closely, and boil rapidly for 
about five minutes, or until the berries burst. Rub 
through a sieve, return the pulp to the sauce-pan, add 
two cups of granulated sugar and a pinch of salt, cook 
two minutes after it boils, pour into hot tart shells, and 
serve when cool. 

Apple Tart. — Cook the apples as directed in stewing, 
page 95, rub through a sieve, return to the sauce-pan, 
add sugar to taste, a pinch of salt, and such flavoring as 
liked, fill hot tart shells, and serve when cool. Orange, 
lemon, and pine-apple are excellent combined with apples 
for making tarts. And tarts from nearly all kinds of fruits 
may be prepared after the formulas for cranberry and 
apple tarts, merely varying the quantity of water and 
sugar to suit the conditions of the diflerent fruits. 

Beefsteak Pie. — Line the sides of a pudding dish 
with suet pastry, and fill three fourths full with beef- 
steak, diced, minced, or hashed, and seasoned to taste. 
With every cup of prepared meat mix a level teaspoon- 
ful of flour. Bake until the pie is cooked. 

Scrap Meat Pie. — Line the sides of a baking dish 
with paste, and fill three quarters full with odds and 
ends of cold cooked meat — chicken, beef, veal, lamb, 



Pastry and Pie. 225 



etc. — from which the skin, gristle, and objectionable bones 
have been removed. Cook together in a sauce-pan one 
tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
add two cups of mixed stock, simmer five minutes or until 
smooth, season to taste, and pour over the prepared scrap 
meat in the pie. Cover with paste, and bake until the 
crust is cooked. Thinly sliced uncooked, or thickly sliced 
cooked, potato may be added to the meat, if desired. 

Baked Chicken Pie. — Cover the bottom and sides of 
a baking dish with flaky pie crust, or with Baking Pow- 
der Biscuit Dough No. 2. Fill with white tissue paper, 
or with clean white rags, and cover with crust. Do not 
pinch the edges together. Bake until well cooked. Lift 
off the top crust, take out the paper or rags, fill the shell 
with stewed chicken, replace the top crust, and serve. 

Oyster Pie. — Prepare and bake the crust as for chicken 
pie, and fill with stewed or creamed oysters. 

Sweetbread and Mushroom Pie. — Prepare and bake 
the crust as for chicken pie, and fill with stewed sweet- 
breads and mushrooms. 

In a similar manner pies may be made and filled with 
any meat, poultry, game, fish, or shell fish mixture suit- 
able for filling patty cases or timbales, or for serving as 
entrees. 

Fish Pie. — Line the sides of a buttered baking dish 
with mashed potato, half an inch thick, and fill the dish 
three fourths full with any cold fresh fish, either boiled 
or baked, freed from skin and bones, and pour over the 
fish enough drawn butter, parsley, or White Sauce No. 
4 to moisten and enrich it. Bake in a moderate oven 
half an hour, or until thoroughly heated. 



226 The Art of Cookery. 

English Meat Pie. — Line a baking dish with Baking 
Powder Biscuit Dough No. 2. Fill it with thin strips of 
cold meat, either turkey, chicken, game, veal, or lamb, 
or with a combination of these meats. Use also a small 
portion of boiled ham or tongue for flavor and decorative 
effect. Lay the meat in the pie in such position that 
in cutting the pie the cuts will be across the strips of 
meat, and not parallel with them, and lay a strip of dark 
meat beside and upon a strip of white meat. Fill the 
interstices with cooked mushrooms, sweetbreads, and 
hard-boiled eggs, cut in dice. Minced parsley or a few 
capers, if liked, may also be used. Roll the top crust 
twice the thickness of ordinary pie crust, and cut from 
the center, but do not remove until the pie is baked, a 
piece of the paste about an inch square. Bake in a 
moderate oven until the crust is thoroughly cooked and 
nicely browned. When cold remove the square piece of 
crust cut from the center, and fill the pie with aspic jelly, 
which is liquid, but not warm. Set on ice, or in a cold 
place, ten or twelve hours. Cut in slices an inch thick, 
and serve for breakfast, luncheon, or picnics. 

Chicken Patties. — Warm puff paste patty cases and 
fill with creamed chicken. 

Oyster Patties. — Warm puff paste patty cases and 
fill with creamed oyster. 

Sweetbread patties are made by filling patty cases 
with creamed sweetbreads, mushroom patties by filling 
them with stewed mushrooms, and mock terrapin patties 
by filling them with mock terrapin. Creamed celery, 
creamed asparagus, and green peas may also be used for 
filling patty cases. 



CHAPTER XVIT. 

PUDDINGS. 

Puddings can be classified as legitimately as soups, 
salads, or sauces, and the subject of pudding-making is 
materially simplified when puddings are divided into 
three classes, quite different in character, and arranged 
in the following order : 

Class I. — Junkets and Blanc-Manges. 

Class 2. — Custards, Souffles, Batter, Rice, Sago, 
Tapioca, and Bread Puddings. 

Class J. — Roly-Polies, Dumplings, Fruit and Mixed 
Puddings. 

But even with the aid of such classification one may 
find difficulty in determining what puddings require the 
addition of a sauce, and what the character of the sauce 
should be. This must be decided by the nature and 
composition of the pudding. If a pudding seems per- 
fect in flavor and complete in itself, it needs no sauce of 
any kind ; but if it lacks flavor or sweetness or moisture, 
a spicy, a sweet, or a liquid sauce should be served with 
it. A pudding sauce should always be in contrast to the 
pudding. It should either enrich the pudding or relieve 
it from over-sweetness. A sweet pudding may be im- 
proved by a plain cream sauce, or by one composed 
largely of orange or some other slightly acid fruit juice. 

This law of contrast may be illustrated by a simple 

227 



228 The Art of Cookery. 

batter pudding, which being a plain pudding with no 
decided flavor, needs a rich, highly flavored sauce. And 
as it is neither very dry nor very soft, either a hard or 
liquid sauce is suitable to serve with it. Such a pudding 
will also admit of a great variety of flavors. 

CLASS I. 

Junket No. i. — Set sweet milk at a temperature of 
seventy-five degrees until it thickens or becomes ' * clab- 
ber. ' ' Then place on ice until perfectly chilled. Serve 
with sugar, or mace sugar, and thin cream. Junket is 
frequently called ' ' curds and whey. ' ' 

Junket No. 2. — Sweeten and flavor to taste a quart of 
sweet milk. Heat until lukewarm and then add to it 
the quantity directed on the package of either liquid or 
powdered rennet. Let the mixture stand in a moder- 
ately warm place until it stiffens or "sets," then place on 
ice till chilled, and serve like Junket No. i. 

If only the whey is wanted, cut the curds into dice, 
with a silver knife, and strain ofl" the liquid. 

Cottage Cheese. — Heat clabber very gently to ninety- 
eight or 100 degrees, put in a cheese-cloth bag, and hang 
to drain over night, or for several hours. When well 
drained season to taste with salt, and enrich with sweet 
cream, or a little butter, mixing it thoroughly with the 
curds. Serve cold. Cottage cheese is known in some 
sections as "smear-case." 

Sea Moss Blanc-Mange. — Wash a small handful of 
sea moss, Irish moss, or Iceland moss, free from sand and 
dust. Soak in cold water for half an hour, then put it 
in a quart of boiling milk, and let steep at boiling heat 



Puddings. 229 

for twenty or thirty minutes. Test it by putting a spoon- 
ful to cool, and if it stiffens like jelly it has steeped 
long enough. When sufficiently steeped drain off the 
liquid, and sweeten and flavor to taste. Serve cold, 
with or without cream. 

Cornstarch Blanc-Mange No. i To two cups of 

boiling milk add half a cup of cornstarch, wet with half 
a cup of cold milk. Season to taste with salt, cook for 
ten minutes, and cool in cups or molds wet with cold 
water. Serve cold with sweet cream, boiled custard, or 
crushed or preserved fruit. 

Cornstarch Blanc-Mange No. 2.— To two cups of boil- 
ing milk add one fourth of a cup of cornstarch mixed 
with the same quantity of granulated sugar, and salt to 
taste. Cook ten minutes, add the well-beaten yolks of 
two eggs, continue the cooking a couple of minutes, 
then remove from the fire, beat into the mixture the 
whites of the eggs beaten stiff, and lasdy add a tea- 
spoonful of extract of vanilla. Cool in molds wet with 
cold water, and serve with cream. 

Arrow-root Blanc-Mange — Use arrow-root in place 
of cornstarch, and follow either recipe for making corn- 
starch blanc-mange. 

Farina Blanc-Mange.— To five cups of boiling milk 
add half a cup of farina — sprinkling it in slowly and 
stirring to prevent the formation of lumps — and a level 
teaspoonful of salt. Simmer gendy half an hour, put 
in molds, and let cool. Serve with sugar and cream, or 
with fruit or boiled custard. 

Rolled Wheat Blanc-Mange.— To four cups of boiling 
milk or water, or two cups of each mixed together, add 



230 The Art of Cookery, 

one cup of rolled wheat and one level teaspoonful of salt. 
Sprinkle in the wheat and stir till well mixed, then cover 
closely and cook gently for an hour and a half. Serve 
cold with sugar and cream. 

Farinose Blanc-Mange. — To four cups of boiling milk 
add half a cup of farinose, and proceed as in making 
farina blanc-mange. 

CLASS 2. 

Boiled Custard No. i. — Heat to boiling point two 
cups of sweet milk, to which have been added half a cup 
of caramel and a pinch of salt. Stir into it the yolks of 
four eggs beaten very light with one tablespoonful of 
cold milk. As soon as the ^%% is cooked remove from 
the fire, pour into a cold bowl, and stir for a minute to 
prevent curdling. When quite cold whip the whites of 
the eggs stiff", and beat into the custard. 

Boiled Custard No. 2. — To two cups of boiling milk 
add a pinch of salt and the yolks of four eggs, beaten 
very light with one tablespoonful of cold milk. As soon 
as the ^^^ stiffens pour it into a cold bowl and stir a 
minute to prevent curdling. Beat the whites of the eggs 
stiff, add gradually four tablespoonfuls of pulverized 
sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. When the 
custard is cold add the beaten eggs and sugar, whip all 
well together, and set on ice until ready to serve. 

Boiled Custard No. 3. — To two cups of boiling milk 
add a pinch of salt and a tablespoonful of flour mixed 
with four tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar. Cook ten 
minutes, add the yolks of three eggs beaten light with 
one tablespoonful of cold milk, and as soon as the q.%% 



Puddings. 231 

stiffens pour out, flavor to taste with vanilla, orange, 
lemon, pistachio, almond, mace, or nutmeg, and when 
cold add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. 

Boiled Custard No. 4. — To three cups of boiling milk 
add two tablespoonfuls of flour, four tablespoonfuls of 
granulated sugar, and a pinch of salt, well mixed to- 
gether. Simmer ten minutes, then add slowly — stirring 
rapidly meanwhile — the yolks of three eggs beaten light 
with one tablespoonful of cold milk. As soon as the 
^^^ is cooked to a creamy consistency pour out, and 
when cool flavor to taste and pour into a glass or china 
bowl. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, drop 
it, in large spoonfuls, upon boiling water in a shallow 
pan, and when cooked lift with a skimmer to a sieve, 
and place upon the boiled custard. This preparation, 
which is sometimes called "floating island," is frequently 
made by putting the beaten whites of the eggs in a china 
dish and pouring the boiling custard over them. 

There is a decided advantage in using more or less 
flour in making a boiled custard. But whenever flour, 
cornstarch, or arrow-root is lised in conjunction with ^^%, 
it should be well cooked before the ^%% is added, and 
the mixture should be removed from the fire as soon as 
the ^^% is cooked to a creamy consistency. Flour has 
a richer flavor than cornstarch or arrow-root, and is 
preferable to either in all liquid or semi-liquid sauces or 
custards. But in mixtures for lemon, cream, or custard 
pies it is better to use cornstarch or arrow-root, as they 
cause them to stiffen like jelly when cold. 

Baked Custard. — To two cups of rich milk add a 
pinch of salt and four eggs beaten with four tablespoon- 



232 The Art of Cookery. 

fuls of sugar. Stir well together, pour into cups brushed 
with melted butter, or into a pudding dish, bake in a 
pan of water, in a slow oven, or cook in a steamer. As 
soon as the custard becomes stiff in the center it is suffi- 
ciently done, and should be removed from the oven, as 
over-cooking will harden the ^^^ and produce whey. 

Caramel Custard. — Use half a cup of caramel to four 
eggs, instead of sugar, and follow the recipe for baked 
custard. 

Baked Sago Custard. — Sprinkle carefully into two 
cups of boiling milk one fourth of a cup of sago. 
Simmer ten minutes, add a fourth of a teaspoonful of 
salt, and half a cup of granulated sugar. Let it cool 
slightly, add two well-beaten eggs, flavor with lemon or 
orange extract, pour into a buttered baking dish, and 
bake, like custard, in a moderate oven. Serve cold, 
with or without cream. 

Baked Tapioca Custard. — To three cups of boiling 
milk add half a cup of tapioca that has been soaked 
several hours in cold water and drained. Cook until 
the tapioca is transparent, then add half a cup of sugar 
and half a teaspoonful of salt. Let stand until it be- 
comes lukewarm, add three eggs, well beaten, flavor 
with lemon or orange extract, and bake, like custard, in 
a buttered pudding dish. Serve cold with sweet cream. 

Baked Corn-meal Pudding No. i. — To one cup of well- 
boiled corn-meal mush add one teaspoonful of butter, and 
one teaspoonful of ginger mixed with two tablespoonfuls 
of granulated sugar. Stir in gradually one cup of sweet 
milk, then add two well-beaten eggs. Bake in a buttered 
pudding dish until it is firm in the center, and remove 



Puddings. 233 

from the oven before it is wheyed. Serve warm, with 
sweet cream. 

Baked Corn-meal Pudding No. 2. — To one cup of 
granulated white corn-meal add one cup of boiling milk 
or water, one tablespoonful of butter, half a teaspoonful 
of salt, and, gradually, one cup of cold milk. Butter a 
shallow pudding dish with apples pared, cored, and 
sliced thin, pour the batter over them, and bake slowly 
for an hour. Serve warm, with sugar and sweet cream. 

Souffle Pudding. — To two cups of milk add one 
tablespoonful of cornstarch, mixed with one tablespoon- 
ful of granulated sugar. Cook ten minutes, remove 
from the fire, add a tablespoonful of butter and a pinch 
of salt, and, when cool, the well-beaten yolks of four 
eggs, and lastly fold into the mixture the whites of the 
eggs beaten stiff. Half fill cups that have been brushed 
with clarified butter, or olive oil, and bake like custard, 
in water, in a moderate oven, until stiff in the center. 
Serve hot with caramel sauce, liquid sauce, or Foamy 
Sauce No. i or No. 2. 

Steamed Batter Pudding. — Stir one third of a cup of 
butter to a cream, add gradually half a cup of sugar, 
then one ^'g^, and another half cup of sugar with a pinch 
of salt, then alternately, a little at a time, one cup of 
milk and two cups of flour, and lastly sift in a third of a 
cup of flour into which two teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder have been mixed. Beat all well together, and 
steam in pudding molds two hours, or in small cups half 
an hour. The molds should not be more than two thirds 
full when put in the steamer. Serve with liquid, lemon, 
or strawberry sauce. 



234 ^^^^ ^^^ ^f (Cookery. 

French Pudding. — To one cup of Bread Crumbs No. 
I add one cup of sweet milk. Stir well together and let 
soak an hour. Mash smooth with a fork, add two eggs 
beaten together, half a teaspoonful of salt, and gradually 
one cup of milk. Bake in a moderate oven, in a but- 
tered pudding dish, or in cups, until firm in the center. 
Serve with liquid, orange, or strawberry sauce. 

Creamed Rice. — To two cups of boiling milk add two 
cups of well-boiled rice which has been drained. Add 
salt, if necessary, and sugar to taste. While boiling add 
the yolks of two eggs beaten with a tablespoonful of 
milk, and, as soon as the ^^% is lightly cooked, remove 
from the fire. When cold flavor with vanilla, orange, 
lemon, mace, or nutmeg. Whip the whites of the eggs 
stiff, add a tablespoonful of sugar, and pile on top of the 
rice. Serve in a bowl, or in individual dishes. 

Creamed Sago. — To two cups of boiling milk add 
half a cup of sago by sprinkling in slowly and stirring it 
smooth. Add half a teaspoonful of salt and half a cup 
of sugar, and cook gently fifteen or twenty minutes. 
Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth and put -in a 
china bowl or dish. Beat the yolks with a tablespoonful 
of milk, and add to the pudding, and when cooked to 
a creamy consistency pour the boiling mixture over the 
beaten whites in the bowl, which will rise to the surface, 
slightly cooked. Dust with mace or grated nutmeg, 
and serve cold. 

Creamed Tapioca. — Soak a cup of tapioca in two cups 
of cold water for several hours. Drain, and put it into 
two cups of boiling milk, with a cup of sugar and half a 
teaspoonful of salt. Simmer gently for fifteen minutes. 



Puddings. 235 

or until the tapioca is transparent, then add two eggs 
beaten very light, cook until creamy, and when cold 
flavor with vanilla. 

Suet Pudding. — Prepare like suet pastry, and mold 
with the tips of the fingers into an oval-shaped loaf, 
about three times as long as wide. Wring a napkin 
from hot water, dust with flour, lay the loaf upon it, fold 
the napkin up over the loaf, place in a steamer, and cook 
an hour and a half Serve with liquid or transparent 
sauce, from which the butter has been omitted, or with 
raisin or cherry sauce. 

Steamed Pudding No. i. — Sift together two teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
two cups of flour. Rub into it two tablespoonfuls of 
butter. Add three fourths of a cup of milk, or enough 
to make a soft dough. Dust the molding board with 
flour, form into an oval-shaped loaf with the finger-tips, 
and steam, like suet pudding, for an hour and a half. 
Serve hot, with any pudding sauce preferred. 

Steamed Pudding No. 2. — Omit the butter, use thin 
cream for wetting, and make in all other respects like 
Steamed Pudding No. i. 

Steamed Pudding No. 3. — Sift together two cups of 
flour, one even. teaspoonful of soda, and half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt. Add a cup of sour cream, stir until perfectly 
mixed, then fill a buttered pudding bowl about two thirds 
full of the batter, and steam an hour and a half Serve 
hot, with liquid, foamy, or fruit sauce. Sour milk can 
be used instead of cream for making this pudding, if a 
spoonful of butter be mixed with the flour. 

Steamed Pudding No. 4. — Sift together two cups of 



236 The Art of Cookery. 

flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and half a 
teaspoonful of salt. Mix with it three tablespoonfuls of 
butter, three eggs, well beaten, and sufficient milk to 
make a dough soft enough to drop from the spoon. Fill 
a buttered pudding mold three fourths full of the dough 
and steam an hour and a half. Serve with any pudding 
sauce desired. 

CLASS 3. 

Steamed Fruit Pudding. — Prepare like batter pudding 
or Steamed Pudding No. 4, and add one cup of seeded 
raisins, or minced citron, or dried currants, or one cup 
of a mixture of all three, well dusted with flour. Steam 
two hours. 

Steamed Apple Pudding No. i. — Sift together two 
cups of flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and 
half a teaspoonful of salt. Cream three tablespoonfuls 
of butter, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two 
eggs, then add the prepared flour and one cup of milk, 
alternately, a little at a time — lastly stir in two cups of 
apples, pared, quartered, cored, and sliced thin. Steam 
an hour and a half Serve with creamed butter and 
sugar, or with liquid sauce. 

Steamed Apple Pudding No. 2. — Prepare like Steamed 
Pudding No. 3, and stir into it two cups of apples pared, 
quartered, cored, and sliced thin. Steam an hour and a 
half 

Steamed Cherry Pudding. — Prepare the batter as for 
Steamed Pudding No. i. Stir Into it one cup of un- 
seeded cherries, mixed with a fourth of a cup of flour, 
and the same of granulated sugar. Steam an hour and 



Puddings. 237 

a half, and serve with creamed butter and sugar, or with 
liquid sauce. 

Steamed blackberry pudding can be made, cooked, 
and served like steamed cherry pudding. 

Steamed Huckleberry Pudding. — Prepare the batter 
as for Steamed Apple Pudding No. i, and add in place 
of apples one cup of huckleberries, picked over, washed, 
and mixed with a quarter of a cup of flour. 

Apple Roly-Poly. — Prepare the paste as for suet pud- 
ding, or for Steamed Pudding No. i. Lay on a molding 
board well dusted with flour. Dust the paste with flour, 
and roll down until not more than a third of an inch in 
thickness. Cover it thickly with apples prepared as for 
Steamed Apple Pudding No. i, and dust generously 
with flour and sugar mixed together in equal propor- 
tions. Begin at one end and roll into an oval-shaped 
loaf. Pinch the paste securely together at the ends and 
over the top, place in a napkin, and steam an hour and 
a half. 

Roly-poly can be made of any kind of fruit — cooked 
or uncooked — in a similar manner, care being taken to 
use more or less flour and sugar with the fruit, according 
to its juiciness and acidity. 

Bread and Butter Pudding No. i. — Butter slices of 
stale bread thinly on both sides, and cover the bottom of 
a shallow baking dish with them. Pour as much sweet 
milk over the bread as it will absorb, then pour over it a 
custard, prepared like Baked Custard No. i. Bake in 
a moderate oven until firm in the center, and nicely 
browned over the surface. Dust with mace or nutmeg, 
and serve cold. 



238 The Art of Cookery. 

Bread and Butter Pudding No. 2. — Prepare and bake 
like Bread and Butter Pudding No. i, but omit the 
sugar from the custard, and the mace or nutmeg from 
the baked pudding. Serve hot, with creamed butter 
and sugar, or liquid or foamy sauce. 

Baked Tapioca Pudding. — Butter a quart pudding 
dish, cover the bottom with tart apples, pared and cored, 
and pour over them a cup of tapioca that has been 
soaked for several hours and drained. Add a dust of 
salt and a cup of boiling water. Sift a tablespoonful of 
granulated sugar over the top of the pudding, and bake 
until the tapioca is transparent and the apples are 
cooked and a light brown color. Serve warm or cold, 
as preferred, with sugar and cream. 

Baked sago pudding can be made in a similar manner, 
using sago instead of tapioca. 

Peach or apricot tapioca pudding can be made like 
apple tapioca pudding, by using peaches or apricots, in 
place of apples. 

Fruit and Rice Puddings. — Rice is frequently baked 
with eggs and fruit in a variety of puddings ; but the 
best and most palatable preparations of rice and fruit are 
those where the rice is perfectly cooked, without any 
fruit being added, and the fruit, either baked, stewed, or 
preserved, is served with the rice, with or without a 
sauce. 

Fruit and Bread Puddings. — A great number of pud- 
dings can be made by combining bread in various forms 
with many varieties of fruit. The principle involved is 
illustrated in the following formulas : 

Huckleberry Pudding. — Butter enough thin slices of 



Puddings. 239 

bread to half fill a china bowl or dish. Stew enough 
huckleberries to half fill the same and sweeten to taste. 
Place a layer of the buttered bread in the bottom of the 
dish and cover it with berries, and so add bread and 
berries alternately, until all the bread is used. Let the 
last layer of berries be thicker than any of the other 
layers, and pour over it whatever juice remains, or 
enough of it to fill the dish or bowl. Cover the pudding, 
and set away to cool. Serve with sweet cream. 

Any fresh or dried fruit of fine flavor, that is abun- 
dantly juicy, can be made into simple, palatable puddings 
in a similar manner. 

Baked Apple Pudding No. i. — Cover the bottom of a 
buttered pudding dish with quarters of sour apples that 
have been pared and cored. Dust lightly with salt, and 
lay over them slices of stale bread that have been soaked 
in cold water until thoroughly saturated. Place a layer 
of quarters of apples upon the moist bread and cover 
thickly with Bread Crumbs No. 2, moistened lightly with 
melted butter. Sift two tablespoonfuls of granulated 
sugar over the apples, cover with a buttered pie pan or 
tin cover, and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour, 
or until the apples are soft, then remove the cover, let 
the pudding brown, and serve warm with creamed butter 
and sugar, foamy, or liquid sauce. 

Baked Apple Pudding No. 2. — Cover the bottom of a 
buttered, quart pudding dish with quarters of apples. 
Dust lightly with salt, cover with Bread Crumbs No. 2, 
moistened with melted butter, and dust with cinnamon 
and ginger. Add another layer of apples, dust as 
before with cinnamon and ginger, pour over the pudding 



240 The Art of Cookery. 

half a cup of New Orleans molasses mixed with an equal 
quantity of warm water, cover with the bread crumbs, 
place a buttered pie pan over the top, and bake until the 
apples are soft, then remove the pie pan, brown the 
pudding, and serve with any sauce preferred. 

Fig Pudding. — Mix together two cups of flour, two 
teaspoonfuls each of baking powder, cinnamon, and 
ginger, and half a teaspoonful each of salt, cloves, and 
mace. Add one cup of minced beef suet, and one cup 
of chopped figs, rubbing them well through the pre- 
pared flour, then add one cup of sweet milk, one cup of 
New Orleans molasses, and three eggs. Stir the mix- 
ture well, pour into a pudding mold, and steam three 
hours. 

Plum Pudding No. i. — Prepare like fig pudding, but 
instead of adding figs add one cup of seeded raisins, 
half a cup of English currants, half a cup of candied 
citron sliced thin, and a teaspoonful each of grated 
orange and lemon peel. Serve with liquid or foamy 
sauce. 

Plum Pudding No. 2. — Cream three quarters of a 
cup of butter, add to it one cup of granulated sugar, 
then the yolks of five eggs, and one cup of flour with 
which two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon and half a tea- 
spoonful each of cloves, nutmeg, and salt have been 
mixed. Add a teaspoonful of lemon juice, one cup 
each of currants and seeded raisins, half a cup of thinly 
sliced citron peel, and a cup of flour with which two tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder have been sifted. Add 
lastly the whites of five eggs, beaten stifl", to which half 
a cup of granulated sugar has been added. Pour in a 



Puddings. 241 

pudding mold, steam five hours, and serve with Foamy- 
Sauce No. 2. 

Plum Pudding No. 3. — To half a cup of creamed 
butter add one cup each of granulated sugar, seeded 
raisins, and English currants, half a cup of sliced citron 
peel, two cups of Bread Crumbs No. 2, and five un- 
beaten eggs. Stir in the eggs one at a time, alternating 
them with the fruit and bread crumbs, add half a tea- 
spoonful each of salt and grated lemon or orange peel, 
and half a cup of orange juice, beat all well together, 
and add two teaspoonfuls of baking powder mixed with 
a quarter of a cup of flour. Pour into a pudding mold, 
steam five hours, and serve with any sauce preferred. 

PUDDING SAUCES. 

The sauces used for puddings may be varied in their 
mixing and seasoning so as seemingly to constitute a 
great number, but the distinct varieties are very few, and 
may be classified as : plain cream, whipped cream, mock 
cream, boiled custard, syrup, mock syrup, creamed but- 
ter and sugar, foamy sauce, liquid sauce, fruit sauce, and 
mixed sauce. 

Plain Cream. — When plain cream is used as a pudding 
sauce it should be of medium richness, and not more 
than twelve hours old. If not of uniform consistency it 
should be rendered so by straining through a sieve. 

Whipped Cream. — The most perfect whipped cream is 
obtained from cream of medium richness. If the cream 
used for whipping is too thin, a froth will be produced 
upon the surface by whipping, but the whole mass will 
not become, as it should, a thick, light mixture ; and 



242 The Art of Cookery. 

if too thick and rich it will stiffen by whipping, but will 
lack lightness and delicacy. A Dover beater and an 
ordinary tin bucket about four inches in diameter make 
a convenient, cheap, and excellent whipping machine. 
But in order to whip cream successfully it must be ice 
cold. Put the cream in the bucket, pack the bucket in 
broken ice, nearly to the top, and add water to the ice, 
that it may chill quickly and uniformly. Put the beater 
also in ice water. When the cream is ice cold whip rap- 
idly until it is stiff all through, then remove the beater, 
cover the bucket, and put it in a cold place until the 
cream is wanted for use. A small quantity of sugar, 
and any flavoring desired, can be added to the cream 
before it is whipped. The white of an ^%g can also be 
added to every cup of cream if it is desired to have it 
very light and frothy when whipped. One cup of plain 
cream should make three cups of the best whipped 
cream. 

Mock Cream. — Cook together until well mixed one 
teaspoonful of butter and two teaspoonfuls of flour. 
Add a pint of sweet milk, simmer five minutes, add the 
yolk of a fresh ^g'g beaten light with a tablespoonful of 
milk, and cook one minute. Beat the white of the ^%^ 
stiff, add a tablespoonful of pulverized sugar, and add to 
mock cream when it is quite cold. Flavor to taste, and 
serve in place of plain cream. 

Boiled Custard No. 5. — Mix together half a cup of 
granulated sugar, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of 
flour. Add to a pint of boiling milk, let simmer five 
minutes, then add three eggs, beaten very light — adding 
the eggs slowly, and stirring the mixture rapidly, while 



Puddings. 243 

adding. As soon as the eggs stiffen the mixture, re- 
move from the fire, pour from the sauce-pan, and con- 
tinue stirring two or three minutes to prevent curdling. 
When nearly cold flavor to taste. Vanilla is the most 
delicate flavoring for creams and custards. 

Boiled Custard No. 6. — To a pint of boiling water 
add three fourths of a cup of granulated sugar, two 
tablespoonfuls of flour, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of 
salt, well mixed together.. Simmer five minutes, add 
slowly the yolks of six eggs, beaten with two table- 
spoonfuls of cold water — stirring the mixture rapidly 
while adding the eggs — ^and as soon as it is delicately 
cooked, remove from the fire and pour from the sauce- 
pan. When cold add a teaspoonful of vanilla and a cup 
of whipped cream. Pile in glasses, and serve as a 
dessert ; or serve as a sauce with snow, rice, or cold 
apple pudding. 

Syrup. — Add one cup of white, brown, or maple 
sugar to half a cup of water. Boil five minutes — 
removing any scum that appears upon the surface — add 
a pinch of salt, flavor, if desired, and serve either hot or 
cold. 

Caramel Sauce. — To one cup of granulated sugar add 
half a cup of water, and boil until the mixture begins to 
color, then cook slowly, and stir, if necessary, to produce 
an even or uniform coloring. When of a bright chestnut 
brown, add half a cup of hot water, cook five minutes, 
and serve either hot or cold. 

Creamed Butter and Sugar. — Put half a cup of butter 
into a pint bowl, slightly warmed, and stir with a wooden 
spoon until it is soft and creamy, then add, a tablespoon- 



244 I'h^ ^^i of Cookery. 

ful at a time, one cup of pulverized sugar — stirring the 
mixture after adding each spoonful of sugar. Flavor 
with vanilla, orange, lemon, pistachio, or any flavoring 
liked, and add also, if desired, two or three tablespoon- 
fuls of sweet cream — a tablespoonful at a time, beating 
well before adding more. The white of an ^^^^ beaten 
to a stiff froth, may also be added to give the mixture 
lightness. By using strawberry, raspberry, or pine-apple 
juice, instead of cream, a fruit flavor may be given to 
this sauce. 

Foamy Sauce No. i. — To butter and sugar creamed 
as directed add two or three tablespoonfuls of boiling 
milk or water — a spoonful at a time — and beat while 
adding the boiling liquid. 

Foamy Sauce No. 2. — Mix together a tablespoonful of 
flour and a cup of granulated sugar, add a cup of 
boiling water, and simmer five minutes. Heat a pint 
bowl and a Dover beater. Break a fresh ^^% into the 
bowl, beat very light, and pour the liquid sauce over the 
beaten q.^% — ^beating while adding the sauce, then add 
half a cup of butter beaten to a cream, and flavor to 
taste. 

Transparent Liquid Sauce. — Follow the directions 
given for making liquid sauce, but use arrow-root or 
cornstarch instead of flour, and add the butter without 
having it beaten to a cream. If transparent sauce is to 
be served with a rich pudding, omit the butter, if with 
an apple, or an acid fruit, pudding, omit the lemon 
juice. 

Orange Sauce. — Mix together a cup of granulated 
sugar, a tablespoonful of flour, and a teaspoonful of 



Puddings. 245 

grated orange peel. Add a cup of hot water, simmer 
five minutes, remove fi'om the fire, and add the juice of 
an orange and half a cup of butter, beaten to a cream. 

Lemon Sauce. — Make the same as orange sauce, using 
lemon peel in place of orange peel, and a teaspoonful of 
lemon juice in place of the juice of an orange. 

Strawberry Sauce. — Mix a tablespoonful of flour with 
a cup of granulated sugar, add a cup of hot water, sim- 
mer five minutes, remove from the fire, and stir into the 
mixture a cup of crushed strawberries and half a cup of 
creamed butter. 

Pine-Apple Sauce. — Make the same as strawberry 
sauce, using grated pine-apple in place of strawberries. 

Banana Sauce. — Make the same as strawberry sauce, 
using a cup of thinly sliced bananas in place of straw- 
berries. 

Raisin Sauce. — To a cup of seedless or sultana raisins 
add four cups of water, cover closely, and cook slowly 
for two hours. Add a pinch of salt, a teaspoonful of 
cornstarch, and a cup of granulated sugar mixed to- 
gether, and simmer five minutes. Remove from the 
fire, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice, and serve with 
either plain suet pudding, cottage, or bread and butter 
pudding, or with boiled rice. 

Sauces for puddings may be made in a similar man- 
ner from fresh or dried cherries, and from some other 
fruits. 

Mace Sugar. — Mix together one cup of pulverized 
sugar and one teaspoonful of ground mace. Serve with 
boiled rice, clabber, junket, or any simple blanc-mange. 

Liquid Sauce. — Mix together a tablespoonful of flour 



246 The Art of Cookery, 

and a cup of granulated sugar, add a cup of boiling 
water, and simmer five minutes. Add a teaspoonful of 
lemon juice, half a teaspoonful of grated lemon peel, a 
fourth of a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, and ten drops 
of extract of ginger mixed together, and lastly whip into 
the mixture half a cup of butter, beaten to a cream. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

CAKE-MAKING. 

Cake-making is so universally practiced that any one 
who understands the elementary principles of mixing 
can, with the aid of a few formulas, make an unlimited 
variety of the different classes of cake. 

All pans in which thick loaves of cake are baked 
should have a center tube as large at top as bottom, and 
extending an inch or an inch and a half above the top 
edges of the pan. A pan made of tin seven inches 
square and three inches in depth, with a center tube two 
inches square and four and a half inches deep, is excel- 
lent for baking cake of all kinds — angel cake included — 
in loaves. And the tube extending an inch and a half 
above the pan furnishes the best possible rest for the tin 
cover which should be used to protect the top of the 
cake from browning until the cake is perfectly risen. 
Use buttered paper on the bottom of cake pans, and for 
all cakes containing butter, sift over the paper a small 
quantity of flour before putting the cake mixture in the 
pan. To test whether or not the cake is done, press 
with the finger lightly upon its surface. If it rebounds 
when the pressure is removed the cake is sufficiently 
baked; if it does not, let it remain in the oven until it is 
baked. 

Angel Cake,— One cup of white of egg, one heaping 

347 



248 The Art of Cookery. 

cup of winter wheat flour, one and a half cups of fine 
granulated sugar, one level teaspoonful cream of tartar, 
one teaspoonful of almond extract. Eggs vary so much 
in size that it is better to take a certain measure of 
the white than a certain number of the eggs. Put 
the measured whites in an earthen bowl, break lightly 
with an ^^^ whip, sift in the cream of tartar, and beat 
until the ^^% will cling to the bowl and not slip out 
if the bowl is turned upside down, then beat the sugar 
into the ^^%, sifting it in gradually, add the flavor- 
ing, and lastly sift in the flour, stirring only enough to 
combine it with the ^^^ and sugar. Put the mixture in 
an ungreased pan, the bottom of which has been covered 
with white paper, place carefully in an oven of moderate 
temperature, and cover with a baking sheet or tin, so as 
to protect the top of the cake but not exclude the air. 
Remove the cover in half an hour — when the cake 
should be perfectly risen — and bake half an hour longer. 
When taken from the oven turn the pan bottom upwards, 
and if it has no center tube rest it upon cups or bowls 
until the cake is perfectly cold, then remove by slipping 
a thin-bladed knife between the cake and the sides of the 
pan. Success in making angel cake depends largely 
upon having an oven of the proper temperature. If the 
oven is too warm the cake will be tough. 

Sunshine Cake. — Add the yolks of two or more eggs 
to the mixture for angel cake, just before sifting in the 
flour. 

Sponge Cake. — Ten eggs, their weight in fine granu- 
lated sugar, half their weight in flour, juice and grated 
rind of a lemon. Break the eggs, separate the whites 



Cake- Making. 249 



from the yolks, and reject two of the yolks. Put the 
eight yolks, with the lemon juice and grated peel, into a 
bowl and whip very light, with a Dover beater, then 
beat in gradually two thirds of the sugar. Beat the 
whites of the eggs stiff, and whip into them the re- 
maining third of the sugar. Add the yolks to the 
whites, folding in carefully, then add the flour, sifting it 
in a little at a time, and mixing it carefully, by folding 
rather than by beating. Bake in a moderate oven from 
twenty minutes to an hour, according to the depth of 
the pans. 

Pound Cake. — One pound each of eggs, butter, sugar, 
and flour, juice of one lemon, two teaspoonfuls of 
almond extract. Cream the butter, add gradually two 
thirds of the sugar, then the yolks of the eggs well 
beaten with the lemon juice, then the flour, gradually, 
and stir and beat thoroughly. Whip the whites of the 
eggs stiff", gradually add the other third of the sugar, 
and fold into the cake. If baked in a thick cake, cover 
the pan for half an hour, and bake in a very moderate 
oven until perfectly risen, then increase the heat slightly 
for fifteen or twenty minutes, then lessen it until the cake 
is done. For baking this cake an hour — perhaps a 
longer time — will be required. 

Rich Fruit Cake. — Make as directed for pound cake, 
adding a heaping teaspoonful of baking powder to the 
flour, a pound of raisins, seeded and torn in pieces, a 
pound of English currants, and half a pound of citron 
sliced very thin, before folding in the whites of the eggs. 
Bake in a slow oven two and a half or three hours. 

Delicate Cake, — Three fourths of a cup of butter, one 



250 The Art of Cookery. 

cup of white of ^^'g, measured before beating, three 
cups of flour, two cups of fine granulated sugar, two tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of orange, 
lemon, almond, or any flavoring extract liked, and one 
cup of cold water. Cream the butter, add two thirds of 
the sugar, then the water and flour into which the bak- 
ing powder has been sifted, a little at a time, alternating, 
then the flavoring, and beat well. Whip the whites of 
the eggs stiff", add the remaining third of the sugar, and 
fold into the cake lightly. Bake in thick or medium 
cakes in a moderate oven. If baked in thick loaves cover 
for half an hour until fully risen, then bake until done. 

Citron Cake. — Add one cup of thinly sliced citron, 
cut in small pieces, to the delicate cake mixture just 
before the whites of the eggs are added. 

Nut Cake. — Add a cup of chopped nuts to the cake 
mixture, or sprinkle chopped nuts thickly over the top 
of the cake before baking it. 

Ginger Wafers. — One cup of butter, two cups of pul- 
verized sugar, one cup of cold water, four cups of flour, 
ginger to taste. Cream the butter, add the sugar and 
ginger, then stir in the water and flour gradually and 
alternately. Spread the mixture as thin as possible on 
a greased baking sheet, 'and bake in a moderate oven. 
As soon as done cut quickly, and while hot, into squares 
or diamonds, and roll, if desired. 

Soft Ginger Cake. — Quarter of a cup of butter, half 
a cup of sugar, half a cup of sour milk, one cup of 
New Orleans molasses, one tablespoonful of ginger, one 
teaspoonful of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of soda, half 
a teaspoonful of salt, and three cups of flour. Sift the 



Cake- Making. 251 



soda, salt, and spices with the flour. Cream the butter, 
add the sugar, then the milk, then the flour and molasses 
alternately. Beat well and bake in shallow pans in a 
moderate oven. 

Frosting for Cake — Cake frosting is often less orna- 
mental and attractive than the beautiful brown crust of 
the cake. Still, frostings have their uses — especially in 
preserving the texture and flavor of cake that is to be 
kept for several days. 

White frosting may be ornamented by scattering over 
its surface, while soft, finely chopped nuts and the green 
portions of finely chopped candied citron ; or in any 
manner liked, with sliced or chopped candied fruits. 
Boiled Frosting No. 3 may be ornamented with either 
whole or chopped walnut meats. 

Uncooked Frosting. — To one cup of the unbeaten 
white of Qgg add four cups of the finest pulverized con- 
fectioner' s sugar. Sift the sugar before measuring, and 
stroke the measuring cup each time. Beat the mixture 
with a strong whip, until, as it falls back upon itself, it 
will remain in a pile until forced to settle by shaking. 
Flavor with any extract desired, pour upon the cake, 
and allow it to run over the edges. If sufficiently beaten 
it will run very slowly, and if spread over the sides with 
a limber knife, will remain where it is placed. If an 
ordinary teacup be used this quantity of white of egg 
and sugar will make sufficient frosting for four medium- 
sized cakes. A smaller quantity of frosting can be made 
by using a smaller cup or measure, but care must be 
taken to preserve these proportions of white of egg and 
sugar. 



252 The Art of Cookery. 

Cocoa or grated or melted chocolate can be added to 
the frosting, if desired, just before spreading upon the 
cake. 

If the atmosphere is dry, in two or three hours the 
frosting will cease to stick to the fingers when touched, 
and will remain soft and creamy below the surface for 
days — sometimes for weeks. If dried by artificial heat 
it may be rendered brittle and ruined. 

Boiled Frosting No. i. — To one cup of granulated 
sugar add half a cup of water, and cook until a spoon- 
ful of the syrup, when dropped in cold water, can be 
rolled into a ball of soft candy, then pour it gradually, 
beating meanwhile, upon the white of an ^^'g beaten 
stifi*. Continue the beating until the frosting is so stiff it 
will not run off the cake when poured over it. Flavor 
to taste. 

Boiled Frosting No. 2. — Make a syrup as in Boiled 
Frosting No. i. Set the sauce-pan containing it into a 
large pan of cold water, and let it remain there, covered, 
until the surface, if touched with the finger, will not 
adhere to it. Then pour into an earthen bowl, but do 
not scrape from the sides or bottom of the sauce-pan, 
and stir with a wooden spoon until it grains and is stiff 
enough to be formed into a ball. Work and knead un- 
til smooth, fine-grained, and ready for use. If covered 
closely, this frosting will keep an indefinite length of 
time, and when needed can be softened by setting the 
bowl containing it in a pan of warm water, and stirring 
it continually, until it becomes soft enough to spread and 
settle smooth when poured upon the cake. It can be 
flavored just before being used. 



Cake- Making. 253 

Boiled Frosting No. 3. — Put into a sauce-pan one 
cup of brown sugar, half a cup of water, and a table- 
spoonful of butter. Boil until a little of the syrup when 
dropped into cold water can be rolled into a ball, then 
remove from the fire, stir until it begins to grain, add a 
teaspoonful of vanilla, and continue stirring until the 
frosting becomes stiff enough to be poured upon the cake 
and not run off. 

Chocolate Frosting. — Add to Boiled Frosting No. i, 
while hot, two or three tablespoonfuls of cocoa or grated 
chocolate and a teaspoonful of vanilla. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

DELICATE DESSERTS. 

A GREAT variety of delicate desserts have gelatine as 
a base, and are made by combining fruits and fruit juices 
of different kinds with a certain proportion df gelatine. 
The principle underlying their preparation is fully illus- 
trated in the following formulas : 

Grape Jelly. — To one third of a box of gelatine add 
one cup of cold water and let soak an hour. Then add 
one cup of hot water, one and a half cups of granulated 
sugar, strain into a bowl, set in ice water, surrounded 
with bits of broken ice, and, when slightly cooled, add 
a cup of Concord grape juice and the juice of a lemon. 
Let stand until the mixture is jellied, then set on ice 
until ready to serve. 

Lemon Jelly. — To one third of a box of gelatine add 
one cup of cold water, soak an hour, add a cup of hot 
water, half a cup of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of lemon 
extract, and two cups of granulated sugar. Stir until 
the sugar is dissolved, then set on ice until jellied and 
ready to serve. 

When phosphated or acidulated gelatine is used in 
making lemon jelly or snow pudding omit the juice of 
one lemon ; when it is used in making jellies, puddings, 
creams, etc., of other fruits omit the lemon juice entirely. 

Orange Jelly. — To one third of a box of gelatine add 

254 



Delicate Desserts. 255 

one cup of cold water, let soak an hour, add half a cup 
of boiling water, one cup of granulated sugar, one cup 
of orange juice, the juice of one lemon, and a teaspoon- 
ful of orange extract. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, 
then set on ice until jellied and ready to serve. 

Pine- Apple Jelly. — Prepare the gelatine as above di- 
rected, add one cup of pine-apple juice, the juice of one 
lemon, and one and a half cups of granulated sugar. 
Stir until the sugar is dissolved, strain, set on ice until 
jellied, and then serve. 

Strawberry Jelly. — Prepare one third of a box of 
gelatine as before directed, add one cup of strawberry 
juice, the juice of a lemon, and one and a half cups of 
granulated sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, 
strain, set on ice until jellied, then serve. 

In a similar manner jellies may be prepared from the 
juice of raspberries, nectarines, peaches, plums, and 
numerous other berries and fruits. 

Mock Peach Jelly. — Prepare the gelatine as before 
directed, add the juice of a lemon, two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar caramel, four drops of almond or peach extract, 
and one cup of granulated sugar, stir until the sugar is 
dissolved, strain, set on ice until jellied, then serve. 

Charlotte Russe No. i. — Whipped cream, slightly 
sweetened and flavored to taste, may be served as Char- 
lotte Russe — without the addition of gelatine — in shells 
of cake, baked for the purpose ; or slices of cake may 
be arranged on the inside of a mold of any desired form, 
and the mold filled with whipped cream and put on ice 
till ready to serve. Lady-finger cakes separated, and 
cut in two, make attractive individual molds when 



256 The Art of Cookery. 

arranged in a prettily shaped cup. The pieces of cake 
can be made to adhere to the cup and retain their 
position by being slightly moistened with syrup. 

Charlotte Russe No. 2. — To one fourth of a box of 
gelatine add half a cup of cold water and soak an hour, 
then add half a cup of hot milk and a tablespoonful of 
granulated sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, 
strain into a two-quart bowl, surrounded with ice and 
water, and add a cup of cold cream and a teaspoonful 
of vanilla extract. When the liquid begins to jelly beat 
vigorously with a Dover egg-beater until it is very light, 
then add the whites of two eggs beaten light, to which 
has been added a pinch of salt and two tablespoonfuls of 
granulated sugar. Remove the beater, and, with a 
strong whip or a wooden spoon, beat into the mixture 
a pint of whipped cream. Pour into molds, and set on 
ice till ready to serve. 

Bavarian Cream. — Prepare like Charlotte Russe No. 
2, omitting the whipped cream. 

Bavarian Cream with Eggs. — Soak a quarter of a box 
of gelatine in half a cup of cold water for half an hour. 
Make a pint of Boiled Custard No. 2. Remove from 
the fire, and stir the soaked gelatine into it. When cool 
flavor to taste with vanilla extract, set in ice water, sur- 
rounded with broken ice, and when it begins to stiffen 
whip until very light. Add the whites of two eggs 
beaten stiff, and set on ice until ready to serve. 

Chocolate Bavarian Cream. — Prepare like Charlotte 
Russe No. 2, but before mixing the hot milk with the 
soaked gelatine add to it half a cup of grated chocolate, 
and let simmer until smooth. 



Delicate Desserts, 257 



Chopped candies, fruits, and nuts, and stale cake, or 
macaroons rolled fine, may be mixed with Bavarian 
creams at pleasure, and thus a great variety of them may 
be readily prepared. 

Snow Pudding. — Prepare lemon jelly as directed, and 
when it begins to jelly and is slightly thickened all 
through, whip with a Dover beater until perfectly light, 
then add the whites of three eggs beaten stiff, to which 
has been added a pinch of salt and three tablespoonfuls 
of granulated sugar. Whip all well together, and set 
on ice until firm. Serve with Boiled Custard No. 2. 

Orange Pudding. — Prepare as directed for snow pud- 
ding, using orange jelly in place of lemon jelly. After 
whipping the whites of the eggs into the mixture, pour 
it into a mold lined with sections or slices of oranges, 
arranged according to taste, and set on ice for several 
hours. Serve with or without cream. 

Banana Pudding, — Prepare a snow pudding from 
lemon jelly, as directed, omitting the lemon extract, 
and, when ready to mold, whip into it two cups of thinly 
sliced bananas. Serve with plain cream. 

Other fruit jellies can be converted into fruit puddings 
by following the formula given for snow pudding. But 
most fruit puddings made in this manner, of oranges, 
strawberries, raspberries, grapes, etc., are better served 
with cream, either plain or whipped, than with custard. 

Orange Cream. — Prepare as directed for orange pud- 
ding, and after adding the whites of the eggs, whip into 
the mixture two cups of whipped cream and two table- 
spoonfuls of granulated sugar. 

Pine- Apple Cream. — Prepare a pine-apple pudding as 



258 The Art of Cookery. 

directed for snow pudding, using pine-apple jelly in 
place of lemon jelly, and after adding the whites of the 
eggs, whip into the mixture two cups of whipped cream 
and two tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar. 

Strawberry Cream. — Prepare as directed for orange 
cream, using strawberry jelly in place of orange jelly, 
and after adding the cream mix lightly with it large 
strawberries, or scatter some berries in the mold, add a 
covering of cream, scatter more berries, cover again 
with cream, and so alternate until the mold is filled. 

Various fruit creams can be garnished with fruit in a 
similar manner — provided the fruit is of the same kind 
of which the cream is made and is really decorative. 

Banana Cream. — Prepare a banana pudding as di- 
rected, and after adding the sliced bananas, beat into it 
two cups of whipped cream. 

Peaches in Jelly. — Prepare a mock peach jelly as 
directed, and when cold and just beginning to stiffen 
pour it over freshly cut peaches, in a glass bowl, and, 
with a silver fork, lightly separate the peaches so that 
the jelly may be distributed uniformly among them. Set 
the dish on ice, and, when the jelly is firm, serve with 
plain or whipped cream. 

Fancy Fruits in Jelly. — Select a mold to correspond 
in shape with the dish in which the fruit is to be served, 
and put into it jelly to the depth of a quarter of an inch. 
Set the mold on ice, and when the jelly becomes firm 
place on it candied fruit, arranged in some pretty design. 
Cherries may be cut in halves, limes sliced and cut in 
the shape of leaves, etc. , and each piece of fruit fastened 
in place with a few drops of liquid jelly. When firm, 



Delicate Desserts. 259 



cover the fruit with jelly and let stiffen, and so continue 
to add fruit and jelly alternately until the mold is filled. 
Let stand on ice for several hours, and, when ready to 
serve, dip the mold in warm water, turn out the jelly on 
a glass dish, and garnish witn a border of whipped 
cream. 



I 



CHAPTER XX. 

SHERBETS, WATER ICES, AND ICE CREAMS. 

Sherbets and water ices are similar in character and 
are generally considered the same. But ices are always 
frozen, sherbets are not. Sherbets are prepared by mix- 
ing broken ice with fruit juice and adding sugar to taste. 
They are usually served in glasses, with the meat or 
game course at dinner. 

Mixed Fruit Sherbet. — To half a cup of lemon juice 
add two cups of granulated sugar, one cup each of pine- 
apple and strawberry juice, and two cups of water. 
Serve in glasses half filled with broken ice. 

Lemon Sherbet. — To half a cup of lemon juice add 
two cups of granulated sugar, and three cups of ice 
water. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then serve in 
glasses half filled with broken ice. 

Orange Sherbet. — To two cups of orange juice add 
three tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and a cup of gran- 
ulated sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then 
serve in glasses half filled with broken ice. 

To either lemon or orange sherbet a small quantity of 
the grated peel, or of the extract of lemon or orange 
may be added, if liked ; or, if preferred, a few drops of 
cinnamon or ginger may be used in either sherbet. 

Strawberry Sherbet. — To two cups of strawberry 

juice add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, and two 

260 



Sherbets, Water Ices, ayid Ice Creams. 261 

cups of ice water. Sweeten to taste, and serve in glasses 
half filled with broken ice. Or add a pint of crushed ice 
to a quart of crushed strawberries, and sweeten to taste. 

Pine- Apple Sherbet. — To two cups of pine-apple juice 
or pine-apple syrup add two tablespoonfuls of lemon 
juice, two cups of ice water, and sugar to taste. Stir 
until the sugar is dissolved, then serve in glasses half 
filled with broken ice. Or, to two cups of grated pine- 
apple add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and two cups 
of crushed ice. Sweeten to taste and serve in glasses. 

Lemon Ice. — To four cups of boiling water add two 
cups of sugar, boil five minutes, remove from the fire, 
add half a cup of lemon juice and a teaspoonful and a half 
of lemon extract. Strain, pour into a freezer, and freeze. 

Orange Ice. — To two cups of boiling water add a cup 
and a half of granulated sugar, boil five minutes, re- 
move from the fire, add two cups of orange juice, the 
juice of a lemon, and a teaspoonful and a half of orange 
extract. Strain, pour into a freezer, and freeze. 

Banana Ice. — To half a cup of lemon juice add two 
cups of sugar, four cups of water, and a dust of salt. 
Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then add six bananas 
sliced very thin. Pour the mixture into a freezer, add 
the unbeaten whites of two eggs, and freeze. This 
mixture increases in bulk considerably, and sufficient 
space should be given it to swell in the freezer. 

Strawberry Ice. — To one cup of strawberry juice or 
strawberry syrup add the juice of a lemon, and sweeten 
to taste. Strain, pour into a freezer, and freeze. 

A variety of other fruit juices may be prepared and 
frozen in a similar way, and served as ices. 



262 The Art of Cookery. 

Ice Cream No. i. — To one quart of thin cream add 
three quarters of a cup of granulated sugar and one 
tablespoonful of vanilla extract. Strain and freeze. 

Ice Cream No. 2. — To one pint of boiling milk add 
three quarters of a cup of granulated sugar and one 
tablespoonful of flour, sifted together. Cook five min- 
utes, add a pint of thin cream, let boil, and remove from 
the fire. When cold flavor to taste with vanilla or lemon 
extract, add the unbeaten whites of two eggs, and freeze. 

Ice Cream No. 3. — To one quart of boiling milk add 
two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed with three quarters of 
a cup of sugar, and cook five minutes. Add the well- 
beaten yolks of three eggs, and as soon as the eggs are 
lightly cooked remove from the fire, add a tablespoonful 
of butter, and stir until the latter is melted and mixed 
uniformly with the cream. Flavor to taste, when cold 
add the whites of the eggs unbeaten, and freeze. 

Strawberry Ice Cream. — Scatter a cup of granulated 
sugar over two cups of strawberries, and mash and strain 
them. Add a cup of the strained juice to three cups 
of ice cold cream, and freeze at once. More sugar can 
be added to the mixture, if needed, before freezing it. 

Pine- Apple Ice Cream. — To three cups of thin cream, 
ice cold, add one cup of pine-apple juice or pine-apple 
syrup, sweeten to taste, and freeze. 

Coffee Ice Cream. — To half a cup of strong coffee 
add one cup of sugar caramel and four cups of thin 
cream. Sweeten to taste and freeze. 

The unbeaten whites of eggs may be added to any 
cream or mixture that is to be frozen, if it is desired to 
have it lighter. 



PART V.-SEASONING. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Some edibles are improved in flavor by having salt 
cooked with them, while others should only be salted 
when served. It is safe to say that all delicately flavored 
food is, as a general rule, salted too highly and seasoned 
too heavily. The more delicate the flavor of an article 
of food, the more careful one should be not to disguise 
or destroy it by the use of too liberal a quantity of sugar 
or salt. Delicately flavored fruits and cereals are often 
ruined with sugar and salt, as are also white flour bread, 
graham bread, and corn-bread. Pepper, spices, and 
other flavoring condiments and extracts are used princi- 
pally in three capacities— to stimulate and strengthen, to 
soften and tone down, or to modify and change, the 
flavor of an article or dish. There is a seeming aflinity 
between certain foods which makes it appropriate to 
serve them together. They are so like they blend 
harmoniously ; or so unlike that one seems the comple- 
ment of the other, and when mingled produce the best 

results. 

The fact should never be lost sight of that we season 
food to render it more palatable, digestible, and nutri- 
tious—not to give the taste of the seasoning to the food, 
but to render finer and more potent the flavors of the 
edible seasoned. Each edible, whether fish, flesh, fowl, 

263 



264 The Art of Cookery. 

vegetable, fruit, or cereal, should be so cooked and 
seasoned as to develop its flavor in the greatest degree. 
Each should be so cooked and seasoned that a first taste 
would enable one, though blind, by the clear, distinctive 
flavor, to discover its legitimate place in the animal or 
vegetable kingdom. The palatability of food — its ap- 
petizing quality — is of vital importance in rendering it 
digestible. Food, no matter how simple or nutritious it 
may be, never perfectly digests and assimilates unless 
it can be eaten with a relish, and is appetizing and 
pleasing to the taste. 

Many people are sick because they fail, in a greater or 
less degree, to assimilate their food, and it ceases to 
nourish them. An eminent physician when asked, 
''What is disease?" replied, "It is the lack of nutri- 
tion." And his brief reply covers the entire question. 
Lack of nutrition causes starvation — a disease that may 
be local or general in its effect — but a disease the only 
remedy for which is food that can be digested and 
assimilated. 

But as perplexing and puzzling as may be the problem 
of nutrition, considered hygienically, it is pretty definitely 
settled that the flavor of food is of vital importance in 
aiding its digestion and assimilation. A writer who has 
given the subject much careful consideration tells us that 
all edible things are in the most perfect condition for 
human food when their flavors are finest, and that 
whether foods should be eaten cooked or uncooked, and 
also the exact amount of cooking they require, should 
be determined by the flavor. In other words, no edible 
whose flavor is not improved by cooking should ever be 



Introduction. 265 



subjected to such process, as to cook such edible renders 
it less digestible and nutritious. The taste for certain 
articles of diet is very much a matter of education and 
habit. Our tastes become coarse and vitiated, or 
cultured and discriminating, in eating and drinking, as 
they do in other things, by the training they receive. 
Most people would probably become fond of all food 
that is wholesome and nutritious, if it were properly 
cooked and seasoned, and when we are educated in these 
respects we shall no doubt have the keenest relish for 
food best adapted to our special needs. We season food 
mainly to increase or modify its flavor, and as the 
natural flavor of most foods is exceedingly delicate and 
very easily destroyed, a tablespoonful of sugar or salt 
often proves so complete an extinguisher of all flavor 
as to leave in the mouth only a sweet or a briny taste. 
Salt is the most common of all seasonings and un- 
doubtedly the most essential. A small quantity of salt 
added to the water in which meats, vegetables, etc. , are 
boiled is supposed to prevent the fiber or texture of the 
edible being cooked from breaking down or disinte- 
grating too rapidly. It is also supposed that less of the 
flavor of the article passes ofl" with the steam when salt 
is present in boiling water. But the main reason that 
salt is so universally used in the preparation of food, or 
added to it when eaten, is, no doubt, because it possesses 
the power of developing the richest and finest flavors of 
the edible. When used in this capacity it should be 
used only to the extent required to induce the edible to 
yield the flavor that would otherwise remain latent and 
undiscovered, and the proper quantity required for 



266 The Art of Cookery. 

different articles can be determined only by a correct, 
discriminating taste. 

Next to salt, sugar is perhaps most useful in develop- 
ing flavors ; and many meats, fish, and shell fish, as well 
as fi'uits and vegetables, have their flavors improved by 
its judicious use. In many made dishes, rich soups, 
and elaborate sauces a great number of things are mixed 
together, and sometimes twenty or thirty different 
flavoring principles are in one dish. Yet, like the colors 
in the rainbow, or the lights and shades in a picture, 
each one of them is necessary for its completeness. In 
these complex culinary mixtures, in order that even a 
moderate degree of excellence may be achieved, three 
important rules mUst be observed : 

First, the various ingredients must be so chosen as to 
be harmonious in flavor, or to present only a spicy and 
piquant contrast. 

Second, they must be introduced into the mixture in 
a certain specific order. 

Third, the method of combining or mixing the various 
ingredients must be that best suited to their nature. 
They must be sliced, mashed, broken, grated, pounded 
in a mortar, or manipulated in such other ways as ex- 
perience has proved will cause them to yield the most 
satisfactory results. 

Nearly all foods have a finer and more intense flavor 
when freshly cooked and warm. This is true of fruits, 
as well as of meats, vegetables, etc., and baked and 
stewed fruits of nearly all kinds, notably apples, damsons, 
prunes, and cranberries are much richer and more 
delicate in flavor when freshly cooked and warm, than 



Introduction. 267 



when they have been cooked and allowed to become 
cold. In cooling the flavor Is thrown off and dissipated. 
And for this reason some few articles of food, the flavor 
of which is very marked, are relished better cold than 
warm — their flavor when cold being less pronounced and 
more delicate. 



CHAPTER XXL 

SALAD-MAKING. 

Salad-making, although one of the most important 
branches of the preparation of food, is, perhaps, less 
perfectly understood than any other culinary operation. 

Salads, when skilfully made and artistically arranged, 
are grateful to the taste and pleasing to the sight, and 
should therefore have a prominent place on bills of fare. 
The hygienic value of salads can scarcely be over-esti- 
mated, while their decorative possibilities are almost il- 
limitable. 

A salad should always be appetizing in a high degree. 
It should always be refreshing, also. And, whenever 
possible, attractiveness should be added to these two 
essentials, so that the useful and ornamental may be com- 
bined in its preparation. A salad can be made so 
beautiful as to lend a charm and grace to its surround- 
ings, and so delicious that, when daintily served, it will 
go far, of itself, to redeem from utter failure a very ordi- 
nary dinner. 

There are numberless incongruous mixtures — com- 
pounded of a variety of things stirred together — that 
are served, and pass current, in some sections, as salads. 
But as such compounds are violations of all the laws that 
govern the mixing and seasoning of food, and set at de- 
fiance every principle of the culinary art, they cannot be 

classed among legitimate salads. Any one who wishes 

268 



Salad- Making , 269 



can make them, but no one of cultured taste will care 
to do so. 

A dinner salad should rarely, if ever, be heavy or 
complex. It should be of fresh fruits or vegetables, 
simply dressed, and delicately served. And the heavy 
and more complex salads should be served alone, or at a 
less hearty meal. 

In no department of cookery is a more analytical study 
of relative flavors needed than in that of salad-making. 
And the greatest care should be observed in handling 
salad materials, not to destroy their natural flavors by 
mixing together those which do not make a harmonious 
combination, or by using with them an inappropriate, 
or too highly seasoned, dressing. Each kind of fruit, 
vegetable, meat, or fish designed for salad-making should 
be regarded as belonging to a distinct class ; and its 
peculiar requirements in that direction should be consid- 
ered, and only such things be mingled, or served, with 
it as will best develop its especial flavor and render it 
most appetizing and attractive. 

The dressing of a salad should invariably be suited to 
the peculiar flavor and condition of that particular salad, 
and whenever two or more edibles are mingled together 
in a mixed salad, they should be selected with especial 
reference to the effect each will have upon the other. 

CLASS I. FRUIT SALADS. 

Many fruits served at breakfast as a relish, and after 
dinner in the form of dessert, are also frequently served 
at dinner as a salad, notably among such being straw- 
berries, currants, and oranges. 



270 The Art of Cookery. 

A great variety of salads may be prepared in the same 
manner from different fruits, but in their preparation 
it should be borne in mind that when two or more fruits 
are so mingled, one of them should be chosen with es- 
pecial reference to giving the mixture flavor, and the 
others mainly to give it bulk. Pine-apples, bananas, 
and a dozen other fruits that readily suggest themselves, 
possess flavor enough to make palatable twice the bulk 
of less sapid fruit. The distinctive character of finely 
flavored food-stuffs should not be destroyed or obscured 
by mingling them together indiscriminately. And there 
can be no grosser culinary blunder than to combine two 
highly flavored fruits in one dish. Such a combination 
is opposed to the principles that govern salad-making, 
and is a direct violation of the laws of harmony that 
should control all food preparations. 

Strawberry Salad. — Select large strawberries with 
long stems. Serve two or three to each guest, on a 
fancy dish, and place beside each dish a tiny cup con- 
taining pulverized sugar. 

Currant Salad. — Select perfect stems of large cur- 
rants, and serve like strawberries. 

Orange Salad. — Select perfect, medium-sized oranges. 
Wash and wipe them. Divide the peel into rather small 
sections, at the blossom end, and loosen from the orange 
about three fourths of its length. Curl in, bend out, or 
partly cut away, according to fancy, these sections of 
peel. Carefully remove the thick white covering, leav- 
ing the delicate skin of the orange pulp unbroken. 
Separate the sections of orange at the end from which 
the peel has been removed, and with a fork twist out the 



Salad- Making. 271 



core. Pick out the seeds, and serve the prepared 
orange with a spoonful of whipped cream, sweetened, 
or oil or cooked mayonnaise dressing, placed in the 
opening from which the core has been removed. 

Banana Salad No. i. — To half a cup of lemon juice 
add a cup of granulated sugar. Put six or eight thinly 
sliced bananas into a glass or china bowl. Pour over 
them the lemon syrup. Cover closely, and stand the 
salad in a cold place for an hour before serving. 

Banana Salad No. 2. — To the juice of three oranges 
and one lemon add a fourth of a box of gelatine soaked 
an hour in cold water. Warm the mixture until the 
gelatine is dissolved, add a cup of granulated sugar, 
and when perfectly cold pour over six thinly sliced 
bananas. Set the salad on ice until stiff, then serve. 

Banana Salad No. 3. — Skin, cut in halves, and seed 
half a pound of white grapes. Scoop the pulp from four 
oranges, keeping it in distinct pieces. Pare and slice 
four bananas. Put the grapes, orange pulp, and bananas 
in alternate layers in a glass or china bowl. Squeeze 
the juice of a lemon into a cup, add to it the orange 
juice obtained by squeezing the skins after the pulp has 
been scooped from them, and fill up the cup with water. 
Pour the liquid over a quarter of a box of gelatine which 
has soaked for an hour in half a cup of cold water, and 
warm until the gelatine dissolves, then add a cup of 
sugar. When cold pour over the mixed fruit in the 
bowl, and place on ice till stiff enough to serve. 

Pine-Apple Salad. — Skin, cut in halves, and seed 
half a pound of Malaga grapes. Scoop four oranges. 
Prepare a cup of pine-apple, or use a cup of shredded 



272 The Art of Cookery. 

canned pine-apple. Drain the juice from the fruit, and 
add to it the juice of a lemon, and a fourth of a box of 
gelatine soaked an hour in half a cup of cold water. 
Warm the mixture just enough to melt the gelatine, 
then strain, and add to it a cup of granulated sugar. 
Mix the pine-apple, orange pulp, and grapes together in 
a bowl, and when the jelly is cold mix with the fruit and 
set the bowl on ice. When it jellies it is ready to serve. 

Apple Salad No. i. — Select mellow, sour apples, pare, 
core, and slice very thin. To two cups of sliced apples 
add one cup of chopped walnut meats, and cover with 
cooked mayonnaise dressing to which has been added 
one cup of whipped cream, seasoned to taste with sugar 
and salt. 

Apple Salad No. 2. — Prepare the apples as for Apple 
Salad No. i , and to three cups of sliced apples add one 
cup of cream dressing to which has been added a table- 
spoonful of minced onion. Season to taste with Season- 
ing No. 2. 

Apple Salad No. 3. — Prepare the apples as in No. i 
and cover with a cup of whipped cream seasoned with a 
teaspoonful of sugar and a pinch of salt. 

CLASS 2. — VEGETABLE SALADS. 

Lettuce Salad. — Place the prepared lettuce in the 
salad bowl and sprinkle over it French Dressing No. i 
or No. 2, according to taste. Turn it over and about 
carefully, until each leaf is covered with dressing. 
Serve on cold plates. Half a cup of dressing will dress 
lettuce enough for six people. Chicory or endive, and 
water cress are prepared and served like lettuce. 



Salad- Making. 273 



Cucumber Salad. — Select cucumbers of medium size, 
remove a thick paring, and cut away all green portions. 
Slice, not too thin, on broken ice, cover closely, let stand 
half an hour, or until chilled and crisp, then drain the 
water from the cucumbers and serve them with French 
dressing. A small quantity of minced onion may be 
served with them, if liked. 

Cucumbers sprinkled with salt and allowed to stand 
become tough and indigestible. 

Onion Salad. — Remove the skin from onions, slice as 
thin as possible, on broken ice, and when chilled and 
crisp serve with a dressing of vinegar, sugar, salt, and 
pepper ; or with French dressing, if preferred. 

Some hygienists think sugar assists the digestion of 
onions, and prevents their imparting an unpleasant odor 
to the breath. 

Cabbage Salad. — Soak the prepared cabbage in cold 
water till crisp. Shave thin, and dress with cooked 
mayonnaise, or with vinegar, seasoned with Seasoning 
No. 3. 

Celery Salad. — Soak the prepared celery in ice water 
until chilled and crisp, then dice the white tender 
portions, and dress with oil mayonnaise dressing. 

Tomato Salad No. i. — Select medium-sized, ripe 
tomatoes, and with a sharp knife cut off about one third 
of each tomato. Cut the pulp loose from the skin, and 
scoop it out, with a teaspoon, without breaking the out- 
side skin. Fill the cup or shell of each scooped tomato 
with broken ice. Put the pulp on a plate and, with a 
silver knife, cut it into large dice. Sprinkle lightly with 
salt, drain in a sieve, add a teaspoonful each of minced 



274 I'h^ ^^^ ^ Cookery. 

onion and oil mayonnaise to each cup of drained tomato, 
and mix well together. Empty the ice and water from 
the tomato cups, and fill each cup with the prepared 
salad. Place on a plate on the crossed stems of two 
large nasturtium leaves, or on lettuce leaves. Lettuce 
leaves make a very nice garnish for tomato cups, but are 
not nearly so dainty as nasturtium leaves. 

Tomato Salad No. 2. — Skin and slice ripe tomatoes in 
thick slices. Lay on ice till chilled. Serve on cold 
plates, with French or mayonnaise dressing, or without 
dressing. Salt, pepper, sugar, and vinegar, as a dressing 
for tomatoes, is preferred by many. 

Potato Salad No. i. — To one cup of cooked mayon- 
naise dressing seasoned with Seasoning No. 2, add a 
tablespoonful each of minced onion and parsley, and a 
cup of thin cream or milk, stirred in gradually. Pour 
the mixture over thinly sliced, cold boiled potatoes, and 
serve with cold meats or boiled fish. 

Potato Salad No. 2. — Dice two or three slices of break- 
fast bacon, cook in a spider until transparent, add a table- 
spoonful of minced onion, and cook slowly until it turns 
yellow. Add two cups of cold boiled potato cut in dice, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and with which a table- 
spoonful of minced parsley has been mixed. Stir lightly 
together with a fork, cover closely, let simmer for ten 
minutes, or until the potato is well heated, then add a 
tablespoonful of vinegar, shake well together, and serve 
hot. 

Beet Salad No. i. — Boil the beets until very tender, 
skin, slice thin, put in a sauce-pan, and to each cup of 
sliced beet add a tablespoonful each of butter and 



Salad- Making . 275 



vinegar, with salt and pepper to taste. Heat, shake 
well together, and serve. 

Carrots, parsnips, and salsify may be prepared and 
served as salads in precisely the same manner. 

Beet Salad No. 2. — Boil the beets till very tender, 
remove the skins, and when cold, hash, or cut into dice, 
and serve with cream dressing, seasoned with salt and 
pepper. 

Beet and Potato Salad. — Mix together, with a fork, 
equal portions of cold boiled beet and potato cut in dice. 
Serve with cream dressing seasoned with salt and 
pepper. 

Cooked spinach, asparagus, and many other green 
vegetables may be dressed with cream dressing, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, and served cold as salads. 

CLASS 3. MIXED SALADS. 

Oysters and clams, when served raw as relishes, can 
scarcely be called salads with strict propriety, but for 
the sake of convenience they are placed among mixed 
salads, as are also various other relishes and salads that 
cannot be legitimately classified as either fruit or vege- 
table salads. 

Raw Oysters.— Wash the shells of the oysters in cold 
water, then pack in broken ice till well chilled. Serve 
on the half shell — from three to five grouped on a plate 
— and garnish with two or three lemon points. 

Clams and other shell fish that are eaten raw should 
be served in the same manner. 

Raw oysters are sometimes cut in pieces, mixed with 
celery, dressed with mayonnaise or French dressing, and 



276 The Art of Cookery. 

served as a salad. But as neither the oyster nor celery 
is improved by such inharmonious combination, an oys- 
ter salad is not likely to commend itself to popular 
favor. 

Shrimp Salad. — Put the prepared shrimps — either 
fresh or canned — in a bowl of broken ice until chilled. 
Remove the ice and water, put over the shrimps about 
two tablespoonfuls of French Dressing No. 2 to each 
cup of shrimps, and place on ice until ready to serve. 
Arrange dainty cups of crisp lettuce leaves by placing 
together in the form of a cup three or four medium- 
sized lettuce leaves. Place from three to five shrimps in 
each lettuce cup, and serve with French Dressing No. i. 

Lobster Salad. — Prepare and serve lobster in every 
respect like shrimps, mixing in each lettuce cup some 
of the diiferent portions of the lobster. 

Mayonnaise dressing may be served instead of French, 
if preferred, with either shrimp or lobster salad, and 
water cress may be used in place of lettuce. 

Salmon Salad. — Pick the cooked salmon in pieces 
suitable for serving. With two cups of prepared salmon 
mix two cold, hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. Dress 
with mayonnaise dressing, and serve in lettuce cups or 
garnished with cresses. 

Any cold boiled, baked, or broiled fish may, with an 
admixture of hard-boiled eggs, be served in a similar 
manner as a salad. And, if lacking in flavor, a spoon- 
ful of capers, or a little finely minced pickle, may be 
added. 

Lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, and cress can be indis- 
criminately mixed with fish and shell fish of all kinds in 



Salad- Making. 27 7 



the preparation of salads, and are admirably adapted to 
the purpose. Celery and fish are so inharmonious in 
flavors that they should not be used in that connection. 

Chicken Salad No. i. — Put four cups of cooked 
chicken, freed from skin, bones, and coarse pieces, and 
cut into dice, in an earthen bowl, and pour over it half 
a cup of French Dressing No. 2. Set in a cold place 
for an hour, drain through a sieve, mix with it three 
cups of white, tender celery cut in dice, and add, and 
mix lightly through it, a cup of oil mayonnaise dressing. 
Place in the salad bowl — heaping in the center — spread 
half a cup of mayonnaise dressing over it, sprinkle a 
spoonful of capers upon the dressing, and garnish with 
curled celery and water cress ; or with olives, lemon 
points, hard-boiled eggs, or lettuce. 

Nothing should be used in garnishing a salad that 
cannot be eaten in conjunction with the salad without 
disguising or detracting from the delicacy of its flavor. 
Therefore chicken salad made with celery should not be 
garnished with beets, radishes, or parsley. 

Chicken Salad No. 2. — To four cups of prepared 
chicken cut in dice add two cups of white, tender celery 
also cut in dice, mix well together, and add a cup of 
cooked mayonnaise. Place in a salad bowl, spread more 
dressing over the top, and garnish according to taste. 

Chicken Salad No. 3. — Mix well together two cups 
each of prepared chicken, sweetbreads, or veal tongue, 
and tender white celery, all diced, and add one cup of 
oil mayonnaise, cooked mayonnaise, or the oil and cooked 
mixed in equal quantities. Put in a salad bowl, cover 
with dressing, and garnish according to taste with curled 



278 The Art of Cookery. 

celery, cress, lettuce, lemon points, hard-boiled eggs, 
capers, olives, or pickles. 

Chicken Salad with Lettuce. — Strip the green from 
the white stems of well-grown, crisp lettuce leaves. 
Throw the stems into ice water for half an hour, then 
break or cut them into dice. To two cups of the diced 
lettuce add a teaspoonful of celery seed, scattering it 
over the lettuce as evenly as possible. Use, the same as 
celery, for chicken salad. It makes an excellent substi- 
tute, and is much preferable to entire lettuce leaves or to 
cabbage. 

Sweetbread Salad No. i. — Prepare and cook the 
sweetbreads as directed on page 38, and, when per- 
fectly cold, free from skin, cut into dice, and put in a 
bowl. To two cups of sweetbreads add half a cup of 
Prench Dressing No. 2 and set on ice for half an hour. 
Pare and cut into dice two cups of cucumber, and put 
into a covered dish with broken ice for half an hour. 
Remove the ice, drain the cucumber, also the sweet- 
breads, and mix them together, adding half a cup of 
French Dressing No. i, in an iced salad bowl. Serve 
at once, or set on ice and keep cold. 

Sweetbread Salad No. 2. — Prepare the sweetbreads 
as directed in last formula. Drain and mix with an 
equal portion of celery cut in dice. Mix with oil 
mayonnaise dressing and serve. Whenever the cooked 
mayonnaise dressing is used alone, or whenever it is 
used in connection with oil mayonnaise dressing, the 
French dressing can be omitted, as it is used with oil 
mayonnaise — which contains but little acid — simply to 
increase the acidity of the salad. 



Salad- Making . 279 



Cucumber and Fish Salad. — Pick into pieces suitable 
for serving any cold cooked fresh fish, freed from skin 
and bones. With two cups of the prepared fish mix half 
a cup of French Dressing No. 2. 

Prepare cucumber as for sweetbread salad and let stand 
for half an hour on broken ice. Drain the cucumber, 
also the fish, mix in equal quantities, and pour over the 
mixture half a cup of French Dressing No. i. 

Tomato and Fish Salad. — Prepare cold cooked fish 
as before directed. Skin and cut the tomatoes in dice, 
and put on ice as directed for cucumbers. Mix two cups 
of each, and a tablespoonful of finely minced onion 
together, and dress with three fourths of a cup of oil 
mayonnaise dressing. 

Mixed Fish Salad. — To four cups of prepared cold 
cooked fish add one cup of chopped hard-boiled eggs, 
and half a cup of chopped pickle. Mix well together, 
add one cup of either oil or cooked mayonnaise dress- 
ing. Serve in lettuce cups, or garnished with cress, or 
nasturtium leaves. 

Egg Salad No. i. — Divide six hard-boiled eggs in 
halves. Remove the yolks, mash fine, and add a tea- 
spoonful of Seasoning No. i, a tablespoonful of olive 
oil, butter, or cream, and a tablespoonful of lemon juice 
or vinegar. Mix all well together, fill the halves of eggs 
with the mixture, arrange them on a bed of lettuce, 
nasturtium leaves, or cress, and serve. 

Egg Salad No. 2. — Hash the whites and yolks of hard- 
boiled eggs separately. Mix lightly together, and to 
two cups of ^%% add one cup of celery, or one cup of 
white stems of lettuce cut fine. Cresses or nasturtium 



28o The Art of Cookery, 

leaves may be used instead of celery or lettuce. Serve 
with either oil or cooked mayonnaise dressing. 

SALAD DRESSINGS. 

French Dressing No. i. — Put a tablespoonful of very 
sharp vinegar into a cup which has been iced or made 
cold, add salt and white pepper to taste, then add 
gradually, stirring meanwhile, three tablespoonfuls of 
olive oil. The salt should be almost as plain to the taste 
in the mixture as the vinegar. 

These proportions mixed in this manner will produce 
the best French dressing. 

French Dressing No. 2. — Season to taste with salt and 
pepper three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, then add one 
tablespoonful of olive oil. 

Mayonnaise Dressing. — In making this dressing select 
for use a Dover egg-beater and a large bowl-shaped 
coffee cup, or a pint bowl v/ith straight sides. Have 
both well cooled with ice, also a fresh ^^^ and the oil to 
be used for the dressing. Put the yolk of the ^g% into 
the cup and beat it for a few seconds before adding any 
oil. Beat in the oil, a few drops at a time, until it shows 
that it is combining perfectly with the ^%%, then add 
more freely. When the mixture becomes too stiff to beat 
easily add, one at a time, two teaspoonfuls of lemon 
juice or vinegar, which will thin it. Beat in more oil 
until again very stiff, when thin with acid as before. By 
thus alternating the oil and acid, a quart or more of oil 
may be made into a light, thick, cream-colored dressing 
with only one ^%% yolk. With an assistant to pour the 
oil, very slowly at first and more freely afterward, one 



Salad- Making. 281 



can convert a large bottle of oil into a deliciously smooth, 
thick mayonnaise dressing in five minutes. To each cup 
of dressing add a teaspoonful of Seasoning No. i. 

Cooked Mayonnaise Dressing. — Pour four tablespoon- 
fuls of boiling vinegar over two whole eggs, or the yolks 
of four eggs, which have been well beaten, stirring the 
mixture while adding the vinegar. Put in a small sauce- 
pan over the fire, and cook slowly, stirring constantly, 
until the mixture is thick and creamy. Remove from 
the fire, add a tablespoonful of butter, and stir until per- 
fectly mixed. To each cup of dressing add two tea- 
spoonfuls of Seasoning No. 2. When cold add an 
equal quantity of whipped cream, and use wherever 
oil mayonnaise dressing would be suitable, or mix to- 
gether equal portions of the two dressings, and use 
wherever either would be suitable. 

This cooked dressing may be put in glass jars or 
tumblers and kept an indefinite length of time. The 
whipped cream should be added just before the dressing 
is used. 

Cream Dressing. — To one cup of White Sauce No. 2 
add gradually four tablespoonfuls of vinegar or lemon 
juice, and, when perfectly cold, beat into it one cup of 
whipped cream, or half a cup of thin cream. 

SEASONINGS FOR SALAD DRESSINGS. 

Different salads require, in their preparation, different 
dressings ; and those different dressings require different 
kinds and quantities of seasoning. Hence the season- 
ings required for various kinds of salad dressings are 
given below : 



282 The Art of Cookery. 



Seasoning No. i. — Mix together two teaspoonfuls of 
salt, one teaspoonful of mustard flour, and half a tea- 
spoonful of mixed pepper. 

Seasoning No, 2. — Mix together three teaspoonfuls of 
salt, one teaspoonful of mustard flour, and one third of 
a teaspoonful of mixed pepper. 

Seasoning No. 3. — Mix together one teaspoonful of 
salt, two teaspoonfuls of granulated sugar, and a third 
of a teaspoonful of mixed pepper. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

ENTREES AND SIDE DISHES. 

Almost everything broiled, fried, stewed, scalloped, 
or deviled may be served as an entr6e or side dish. 
But the things that should be, and most usually are, 
served as such are made dishes, or dishes prepared from 
left-overs, odds and ends, and broken bits of former 
meals. And in these made dishes it is quite legitimate 
to introduce foreign sauces and seasonings, in order to 
give flavor to the food in lieu of that which it has lost by 
cooling and exposure. 

It is somewhat difficult to draw the line which ought 
to separate dishes alike in many respects, but quite dif- 
ferent in others. The whole subject of made dishes 
can, however, be pretty well illustrated under the follow- 
ing classes, viz. : creamed dishes, scalloped dishes, 
deviled dishes, fricassees, hashes, croquettes, jellied 
meats, and boned meats. 

Creamed Chicken. — Free the cold chicken — either 
roasted, boiled, broiled, or fried — from skin and tough or 
sinewy bits, and cut in small pieces. To two cups of 
prepared chicken add one cup of White Sauce No. 2 or 
No. 3, mix well together, season to taste, simmer five 
minutes in a covered sauce-pan, and serve. 

Creamed Fish. — Free the cold fish — either baked, 

broiled, boiled, or fried — from skin and bones, and sepa- 

283 



284 The Art of Cookery, 



rate in pieces. To each cup of prepared fish add half 
a cup of White Sauce No. 4, ^^'g sauce, or drawn but- 
ter, to any of which may be added a teaspoonful of 
minced onion or parsley, with salt and pepper to taste. 
Mix carefully with a fork, simmer five minutes in a 
covered sauce-pan, and serve. 

Creamed Sweetbreads. — Free the cooked sweetbreads 
from skin and separate them into small pieces. To each 
cup of sweetbreads add half a cup of White Sauce No. 
4 and an eighth of a teaspoonful of grated lemon peel, 
mixed with half its bulk of ground mace. Simmer five 
minutes in a covered sauce-pan, season, and serve. 

Creamed Oysters No. i. — To one cup of hot White 
Sauce No. 2 add a pint of oysters drained in a colander. 
Stir with a wooden spoon while heating, and as soon 
as the mixture boils and the thin edges of the oysters 
wrinkle and separate, remove from the fire, season, and 
serve in patty cases, vol-au-vents, or pies. 

Creamed Oysters No. 2. — To one cup of White Sauce 
No. 4, boiling hot, add one pint of drained oysters, cook 
until the edges curl and separate, then season and serve 
on toast, or as stewed oysters. 

Creamed Shrimps. — If canned shrimps are used, 
cover them for half an hour with broken ice and water, 
then drain, and to a can of shrimps add a cup of White 
Sauce No. 4. Simmer five minutes in a sauce-pan, 
season to taste, and serve. 

Creamed Lobster. — To one cup of White Sauce No. 
4 add two cups of cooked lobster, picked in small 
pieces, season to taste with Seasoning No. i, simmer 
five minutes in a covered sauce-pan, and serve. 



Entries and Side Dishes. 285 



Salmon may be prepared and creamed like lobster. 
A teaspoonful of lemon juice or vinegar may be added 
to either dish when liked. 

Creamed Potatoes. — Cut cold boiled or baked pota- 
toes into dice or slices. To each pint of potato add a 
teaspoonful of minced parsley, if liked, and a cup of 
White Sauce No. 4. Season to taste, simmer five min- 
utes in a covered sauce-pan, and serve with cold meats, 
or with broiled or fried meats, fish, or birds. 

Creamed Macaroni. — To about a quart of boiled and 
drained macaroni add a cup of White Sauce No. 4. 
Season to taste, simmer five minutes in a covered sauce- 
pan, and serve with grated cheese, or mix a tablespoon- 
ful of grated cheese with the white sauce when added. 
Spaghetti and vermicelli may be creamed in the same 
manner. 

Creamed Codfish. — Soak two cups of salt codfish, 
freed from skin and bones and cut into dice, for fifteen 
minutes, in a quart of cold water. Drain off the water, 
put the fish in a sauce-pan, add to it a cup of White 
Sauce No. i, and pepper to taste, cover, and simmer 
five minutes. Serve with boiled or baked potatoes, or 
on dipped toast. Black or white pepper should be used 
in creamed codfish, and cayenne or mixed pepper in 
codfish balls or cakes. 

Creamed Toast. — Put in a shallow pan or basin on the 
back of the stove a cup of milk, a tablespoonful of 
butter, and a fourth of a teaspoonful of salt. Mix well 
together and dip the toasted bread, by laying a slice at 
a time in the hot mixture. With a fork and a limber- 
bladed knife turn it over, press under the milk, and lift 



286 The A7't of Cookery. 

at once into a warm tureen. After all the toast wanted 
has been dipped and lifted to the tureen in this manner, 
pour over it a cup of White Sauce No. 4. 

Dipped Toast. — Put a cup of boiling water, a table- 
spoonful of butter, and a fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, 
in a shallow basin, on the back of the stove. Dip the 
toasted bread, a slice at a time, into the mixture, turn it 
over with a knife and fork, and lift on to a heated platter 
before it becomes too soft. If the toast is required 
richer more butter may be used. Hot milk may also be 
used in place of water, if preferred. 

Curried Toast. — To a cup of White Sauce No. 4 add 
curry powder to taste, and serve with dipped toast. 

Curried Rice. — To one cup of White Sauce No. 3 add 
curry powder to taste, and serve with boiled rice. 
Curried rice is appropriately served with stewed chicken 
or stewed veal. 

Scalloped Potatoes No. i. — Pare and slice the pota- 
toes of a uniform thickness. Butter a baking dish and 
fill three quarters full with the prepared potatoes. Add 
new milk, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper, until the 
potatoes are nearly covered, then sprinkle Bread Crumbs 
No. 3 generously over them, and bake in a moderate 
oven for half an hour, or until the potatoes are cooked 
and the crumbs browned. 

For scalloping potatoes a simple broth or any made 
gravy or meat sauce combined with water may be sub- 
stituted for milk, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley, 
or minced onion, may be added to two or three cups of 
the prepared potatoes to give variety to the dish. 

Scalloped Potatoes No. 2. — To three or four cups of 



Entries and Side Dishes. 287 

cold boiled or baked potatoes cut into dice, sliced, or 
hashed, add a teaspoonful of minced parsley and a cup 
and a half of White Sauce No. 4. Put in a buttered 
baking dish, cover with Crumbs No. 3, and cook in a 
moderate oven until the mixture is well heated and the 
crumbs are brown. 

Scalloped Fish No. i. — Cut uncooked fish in pieces 
suitable for serving, free from skin and bones, and season 
with salt, pepper, and parsley, if liked. Fill a buttered 
baking dish three fourths full with the prepared fish, 
cover with sweet milk, sprinkle Bread Crumbs No. 3 
over the top, and bake in a moderate oven for half an 
hour, or until the fish is thoroughly cooked and the 
crumbs are brown. 

Fish and potatoes may be scalloped together in this 
manner by putting in the baking dish alternate layers of 
uncooked fish and potatoes. 

Scalloped Fish No. 2. — Free from skin and bones and 
cut in small pieces cold cooked fish. Slice or hash cold 
boiled or baked potatoes and cold boiled eggs. Fill a 
buttered baking dish three fourths full of the prepared 
material — ^placing the fish, potato, and eggs in alternate 
layers — ^and scattering, if liked, minced parsley over the 
layers of fish. Cover with White Sauce No. 4, sprinkle 
the top with Bread Crumbs No. 3, and bake twenty or 
twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. 

Scalloped Salt Codfish. — Prepare as for creamed cod- 
fish, put in a buttered baking dish, cover with White 
Sauce No. 4, sprinkle Bread Crumbs No. 3 over the 
top, and bake twenty or thirty minutes, according to the 
size of the dish, in a moderate oven. 



288 The Art of Cookery. 

Scalloped Fresh Codfish and Oysters. — Free cold 
boiled codfish of skin and bones, cut it in pieces suitable 
for serving, and with each pint of prepared fish use a 
pint of oysters, rinsed in cold water and drained. Put 
the fish and oysters in a shallow, buttered baking dish in 
alternate layers, add half a cup of drawn butter, left 
over with the fish, or made with water, sprinkle Bread 
Crumbs No. 3 over the top, and bake in a quick oven 
until the crumbs are a nice brown. 

Panned Oysters. — Put in a spider a tablespoonful of 
butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dust of pepper. 
When the butter is melted and hot, add a pint of oysters 
that have been washed and drained. Cover and cook 
over a hot fire about two minutes, shaking the spider 
occasionally while cooking. Serve in a warm dish, on 
thin slices of buttered toast — or without the toast, if 
preferred. 

Curried Oysters. — Add curry powder to taste to 
oysters that have been washed and drained, and then 
pan, stew, or cream them. 

Scalloped Eggs No. i. — Slice or dice cold boiled 
eggs, put them in a buttered baking dish, cover with 
White Sauce No. 4, and heat to boiling point in a mod- 
erate oven. 

Scalloped Eggs No. 2. — Put into a shallow, buttered 
baking dish one tablespoonful of White Sauce No. 4 for 
each ^g^. Break the eggs separately and slip carefully 
into the baking dish, sprinkle half a teaspoonful of 
grated cheese, or minced parsley, or cold boiled ham 
minced fine, over each ^^g, cover each with another 
tablespoonful of white sauce, and cook to taste in a 



Entries and Side Dishes. 289 



moderate oven. If preferred, use only white sauce. 
The eggs can be scalloped in individual dishes, and 
the same proportion of white sauce allowed each Q^'g 
as in the large dish. 

Scalloped Lobster — Cut the cooked lobster into pieces 
suitable for serving, put in a buttered baking dish, and 
to four cups of lobster add one cup of white sauce, and 
half a teaspoonful of mustard flour. Cover lightly with 
Bread Crumbs No. 3, and cook in a moderate oven 
twenty or twenty-five minutes. Salmon can be scalloped 
like lobster. 

Deviled Clams. — Chop two dozen dams very fine, 
season with a teaspoonful each of minced parsley and 
onion, and salt and cayenne or mixed pepper to taste, 
and moisten with half a cup of sweet milk. Sprinkle a 
light covering of Bread Crumbs No. 3 in a buttered 
baking dish, or in buttered shells, place upon them a 
layer of prepared clams, sprinkle with bread crumbs, 
place upon them another layer of clams, cover the top 
generously with bread crumbs, and bake in a moderate 
oven fifteen or twenty minutes. 

Deviled Crabs. — To two cups of hard-shell crab meat 
picked into small pieces add a teaspoonful of mustard 
flour, salt and pepper to taste, and half a cup of milk 
or thin cream. Sprinkle a buttered baking dish, or 
buttered shells, lightly with Bread Crumbs No. 3, place 
upon them a layer of crab meat, sprinkle again with 
crumbs, place another layer of crab meat upon the 
crumbs, and finish with a covering of crumbs. Bake 
fifteen or twenty minutes, or until the crumbs are nicely 
browned. Serve, with lemon points, either hot or cold. 



290 The Art of Cookery. 

Lobster and various kinds of fish may be deviled in a 
similar manner, and the seasoning may be varied to suit 
the taste. Hard-boiled eggs chopped fine may also be 
added at pleasure, to deviled fish, clams, lobster, or crabs. 

Deviled Eggs. — To five hard-boiled eggs, minced fine, 
add two tablespoonfiils of grated cheese, salt, and cayenne 
or mixed pepper to taste, and half a cup of White Sauce 
No. 4. Put in a sauce-pan, simmer five minutes, and 
serve on toasted bread, or on heated snowflake crackers. 

Scalloped and deviled dishes are much alike in many 
respects, but there are some quite marked differences. 
In scalloped dishes there is usually a greater preponder- 
ance of liquid than in deviled dishes — the latter being 
invariably dry, while the former are usually quite the re- 
verse. In deviled dishes the food is always cut or di- 
vided into pieces small enough to be eaten with a fork. 
And in deviled dishes bread or cracker crumbs are al- 
ways used, while in scalloped dishes they may or may 
not be used. The idea used to obtain that deviled 
dishes must be intensely hot with seasoning, but that 
idea has been abandoned, and deviled and scalloped 
dishes are now alike in that respect, both being seasoned 
to taste. 

Fricasseed Oysters. — Select large oysters and wrap 
about each oyster a thin slice of salt pork or breakfast 
bacon. Lay on a very hot griddle or spider, and cook 
over a quick fire until the wrapping is brown and crisp, 
and the oyster delicately cooked. Serve on thin slices 
of toast, with lemon points. 

Fricasseed oysters are sometimes absurdly called 
' * little pigs in blankets. ' ' 



Entries and Side Dishes. 291 

Fricasseed Salt Pork. — Slice half a pound of salt 
pork in thin slices, and remove the rind. Lay the 
slices upon a hot spider and cook over a quick fire until 
the under side is brown, then turn and brown the other 
side in a similar manner. Lift the brown slices to a 
warm platter and drain the grease from the spider, until 
only two or three tablespoonfuls remain. Place the 
spider over the fire, put in it two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
mix well with the fat in the spider, add two cups of 
sweet milk, simmer five minutes, season to taste, and 
pour over the slices of meat on the platter. Serve with 
it boiled or baked potatoes. 

Fricasseed Chicken. — In frying chicken, quail, and 
other birds it is economy to use only the breast and 
second joints, and to reserve the wings, legs, back, and 
giblets for stewing or fricasseeing. To fricassee these 
portions saut6 them in clarified butter until nicely 
browned, then remove to a sauce-pan. To the butter in 
the spider where they were sauted add a teaspoonful of 
flour and mix well, then pour in two cups of hot water, 
stir all the browning from the spider and mix with the 
liquid, season lightly with salt, strain, and pour over the 
chicken in the sauce-pan. Cover and simmer gently for 
an hour and a half, or until very tender, add a table- 
spoonful of flour stirred to a smooth paste with two 
tablespoonfuls of cold water, simmer five minutes, season 
to taste, and serve. A cup of fresh or canned mush- 
rooms, cut in thin slices, can be added to this fricassee 
five or ten minutes before it is served. 

Frizzled Beef. — Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a 
spider over a quick fire, and when hot add two cups of 



292 The Art of Cookery. 

thinly shaved dried beef, from which the rind has been 
removed, and stir constantly with a fork, to keep from 
burning, until it curls and looks cooked. Then remove 
the spider to a cooler part of the stove, sift in two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, mix well with the meat, pour in two 
cups of sweet milk, and simmer and stir till the sauce 
or gravy is smooth. Serve on a hot platter. Beef will 
frizzle in about two minutes. 

Dried mutton, veal, and venison can be cooked in 
the same manner. A little dried liver shaved thin can 
be added to the beef or mutton, if liked. 

Stewed Giblets with Mushrooms. — Cut the giblets of 
a fowl in pieces suitable for serving, put them in a sauce- 
pan, add two cups of hot water and a pinch of salt, cover 
closely, and cook gently for two hours, or until they are 
tender. Cook together until a light brown color two 
tablespoonfuls each of flour and butter, add to it the 
water from the giblets, also half a can of mushrooms 
sliced, with half the water from the can. Simmer five 
minutes, season to taste, pour over the giblets, shake 
well together, and serve. A teaspoonful of lemon juice 
or vinegar may be added to the mixture, if liked. 

Fish Hash. — Melt a tablespoonful of butter in a 
sauce-pan, add a cup of water or milk and two cups of 
any kind of cold fresh fish, freed from skin and bones, 
and picked into small pieces. Season to taste, simmer 
five minutes, and serve on slices of dipped toast. 

Hard-boiled eggs may always be added to hashed fish, 
also a flavoring of minced parsley, if liked ; and any 
fish sauce left over from a previous meal may be used, 
instead of milk or water, for moistening the hash. 



Entries arid Side Dishes. 293 

Turkey Hash. — Remove the skin and fat from left- 
over portions of turkey, and chop the meat fine, or cut 
it in dice. Put the bones, skin, and refuse bits in a 
sauce-pan with some trimmings of celery, add a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and sufficient water to cover the bones, 
simmer for three hours, strain, and remove the grease. 
Cook together a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, 
add to it two cups of the turkey broth, cook until 
smooth, then add two or more cups of the prepared 
turkey meat, simmer five minutes, season, and serve on 
toast, or with baked or boiled potatoes. 

Turkey and Oyster Hash. — Cut cold roast or boiled 
turkey into pieces as large as a medium-sized oyster. 
Prepare a broth as for turkey hash. Put two or more 
cups of the prepared meat into a sauce-pan, add enough 
of the broth to cover it, set on the back of the range, 
and let simmer until tender. Cook together in another 
sauce-pan two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour 
until well mixed but not brown, add two cups of the 
turkey broth, simmer five minutes, add a pint of oysters, 
rinsed and drained, stir gently with a wooden spoon, 
and as soon as the edges separate and curl add the turkey 
meat, season to taste, and serve with or without toast. 

This dish may be served at breakfast or lunch, or as 
an entree at dinner — in the latter case on a triangular 
slice of toast. 

Chicken and oyster hash may be prepared and served 
in the same manner. The proportions of fowl and 
oysters in these hashes may be the same, or either may 
predominate according to circumstances. Boiled fresh 
codfish combined with oysters in a similar manner makes 



294 '^^^ -^^^ ^f Cookery. 

a very delicious dish. In such combination the fish 
should be heated in a few spoonfuls of butter, and the 
oysters cooked in a white sauce or drawn butter before 
they are mixed together. 

Veal Hash. — Cold roast or stewed veal, when freed 
from skin and bones and minced fine, makes excellent 
hash. Prepare the broth the same as for turkey hash. 
Cook together in a sauce-pan one tablespoonful each of 
butter and flour, add one cup of veal broth, cook until 
smooth, add two cups of minced veal, simmer five 
minutes, season to taste, and serve on toast. Finely 
chopped mushrooms may be added to turkey, chicken, 
or veal hash if desired, or two or more of these meats 
may be mixed together in one hash. 

Veal Terrapin. — Cut cold roast or stewed veal, freed 
from bones and tough portions, into irregular sized 
pieces — some as large, others twice as large, as dice. 
The fat and skin can both be used, unless the skin is 
hard. Cook together in a sauce-pan, until a light brown, 
two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add two 
cups of veal broth, and the water from a can of mush- 
rooms, and season with mixed pepper and half a level 
teaspoonful of grated lemon peel mixed with half its 
bulk of ground mace or grated nutmeg. Add two or 
more cups of the prepared veal, the can of mushrooms 
sliced, three hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, and a cup of 
cooked sweetbreads, prepared as for creaming, or a cup 
of calf's brains cooked in salted water and cut in dice. 
Simmer gently five minutes, or until the mixture is well 
heated, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice mixed with a 
teaspoonful of sugar, and serve. 



Entrees and Side Dishes. 295 

Mock Terrapin. — Cook in a sauce-pan, until brown, 
four tablespoonfuls of butter, add one cup of veal broth, 
two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, half a teaspoonful of 
grated lemon peel, half as much grated nutmeg or 
ground mace, and a teaspoonful of sugar. Mix lightly 
together with a fork two cups of veal, one cup of veal 
kidneys, one cup of sweetbreads or calf's brains, pre- 
pared as for veal terrapin, and a cup of hard-boiled 
eggs minced fine. Add them to the broth, cover closely, 
simmer five or ten minutes until well heated, season, and 
serve. 

In a similar manner various kinds of delicate meats 
may be combined in a dish, and such ingredients as 
mushrooms, eggs, brains, sweetbreads, and kidneys may 
be omitted. The advantage of using such articles in 
this connection is, that without them there would 
frequently be an insufficient quantity of odds and ends 
to make a family dish, and with one or more of them 
added the richness and flavor of the dish are improved. 

Mutton Hash. — Prepare cold boiled or roast mutton 
in pieces suitable for serving. Put in a sauce-pan, cover 
with Jelly Sauce No. 3, simmer ten minutes, or until 
heated, season, and serve. Slices of cold duck or 
venison may be heated in the same manner. 

Cold sliced beef or veal may be served with cold 
Tomato Sauce No. i, or with cold tomato or cucumber 
catsup ; or may be re-warmed in slices, dice, or cubes, 
in any brown or tomato sauce. 

Breakfast Hash. — To one cup of coarsely hashed 
cold boiled or baked potato add one cup of finely hashed 
cold meat, either beef, veal, lamb, chicken, or a mixture 



296 The Art of Cookery. 

of any or all of them, season to taste with salt and 
pepper, add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth, gravy, 
milk, or cream, and brown in a buttered pan on the 
range, or in the oven. Or heat thoroughly, without 
browning, if preferred. For an occasional change flavor 
the hash with minced onion or sweet herbs, or serve 
with fried or broiled breakfast bacon, baked apples, 
apple sauce, or some acid stewed fruit. 

Scrapple. — To three cups of simple beef stock, or of 
Mixed Stock No. i, add one cup of granulated corn- 
meal wet with one cup of cold water. Season sharply 
with salt and pepper, cook half an hour, and turn into a 
brick-shaped bread pan. When perfectly cold cut in 
slices and saute on a griddle with clarified butter or 
drippings, or crumb and fry in deep fat, like mush. 

Calf's Head. — Prepare and cook a calf's head as for 
mock turtle soup. Serve as in mock turtle soup, mak- 
ing the sauce thicker than the soup ; or serve the head 
and brains in Brown Sauce No. 2 or No. 3, in Jelly 
Sauce No. 3, or in Tomato Sauce No. 5. 

Hashed Potato. — Cook together one tablespoonful of 
butter and one teaspoonful of flour. Add half a cup of 
cream or sweet milk. Season with salt and pepper. 
Stir until the mixture boils and is smooth. Add two 
cups of cold boiled or baked potato — cut in dice or 
hashed — cover, and let simmer ten or fifteen minutes. 
Serve in a heated dish. 

Browned Hashed Potato. — Prepare a sauce as for 
hashed potato. Mix the potato carefully with it. Put 
the mixture in a well-buttered skillet or pan, and cook 
slowly until nicely browned. Serve hot. 



Entries and Side Dishes. 297 

Lyonnaise Potato. — Put two tablespoonfuls of clarified 
butter in a skillet or frying pan, and when melted add to 
it two tablespoonfuls of minced onion. Cook till the 
onion turns yellow, then add two cups of diced or 
hashed cold potato, with which a tablespoonful of 
minced parsley has been mixed, and which has been 
seasoned with salt and pepper. Cover and cook slowly 
until nicely browned on the under side, then fold like an 
omelet, and serve on a heated dish. If the cold potato 
is very dry two or three spoonfuls of sweet milk may be 
mixed with it before the parsley and seasoning are added. 

Browned Potato Cakes. — Mix one Qgg and one table- 
spoonful of cream or milk with two cups of cold mashed 
potato. Roll the mixture into balls. Flatten the balls 
into cakes about half an inch thick. Dust with flour 
and brown on a griddle, with just sufficient clarified 
butter, or beef drippings, to keep them from sticking. 

Potato and Fish Cakes. — Prepare cold mashed po- 
tato as for potato cakes. Mix with it an equal quantity 
of cold boiled, baked, broiled, or fried fish, freed from 
skin and bones and picked up fine ; add a teaspoonful 
of melted butter, form into cakes, and brown on a 
griddle. 

Browned Sliced Potatoes. — Slice cold boiled potatoes 
into tolerably thick slices. Season with salt and pepper, 
and dust with flour. Lay on a griddle, well greased 
with drippings or clarified butter, over a quick fire. 
When brown on the under side, pour a few drops of 
melted butter on each slice of potato, turn over, and 
brown. Serve hot. 

Creamy Chicken Croquettes. — Cook together in a 



298 The Art of Cookery. 

sauce-pan until well mixed a tablespoonful each of flour 
and butter, add a cup of jellied chicken, or veal stock, 
and two cups of finely minced chicken, with or without 
sweetbreads, mushrooms, etc., and seasoned like 
Chicken Croquettes No. i, 2, 3, or 4. Simmer five 
minutes, spread to cool on oiled plates, and, when cold, 
shape in any form desired by rolling lightly under the 
hand on a smooth board. When shaped, roll in Crumbs 
No. 2, cover with ^^<g batter by laying the croquettes, 
one at a time, on a plate and dipping the batter over 
them with a spoon until every portion is covered, then 
slip a limber knife under the end of each croquette its 
full length, and lift to a plate covered thickly with Bread 
Crumbs No. 4. Pile the crumbs all over the croquette 
with a spoon, pressing them gently upon the ends, and 
lay it on several folds of cheese-cloth, the croquette be- 
ing so soft that if laid upon a plate or board the under 
side will be flattened and its form rendered imperfect. 
When all the croquettes are prepared, place in a frying 
basket and fry in deep fat. 

To make chicken or veal croquettes that will be very 
soft and creamy when fried, rich chicken or veal stock, 
or a combination of both, should be used. Any meat 
or fresh fish croquettes can be made soft and creamy in 
a similar manner by using stiff veal stock with which to 
make the sauce. 

Lobster Cutlets. — Prepare the lobster as for croquettes. 
Place a spoonful of the mixture on a board or plate well 
covered vv^ith Crumbs No. 2. With a spoon in the left 
hand, its back toward the mixture, and a limber knife in 
the right hand, press it into the form of a cutlet or 



Entries and Side Dishes, 299 



neatly trimmed lamb chop, half an inch in thickness. 
Level up the sides of the cutlet by pressure with the 
spoon and knife, and when perfect in shape, cover all 
over with Crumbs No. 2, then with Qgg batter, as in 
creamy chicken croquettes. With a broad spatula or 
pancake ladle lift to a plate, cover again with Crumbs 
No. 2, and saut6 in clarified butter, until a rich brown 
color. Serve, garnished with lemon points, cress, curled 
celery, or thick slices of tomato. 

Fish Turbans. — Prepare and press into the required 
form, as directed for lobster cutlets, any kind of cold 
fresh fish. Season to taste, crumb, and saut6 in like 

manner. 

Potato Croquettes No. i. — Mash cold boiled pota- 
toes. Season with salt, pepper, and a little butter. 
Add a teaspoonful of minced parsley and the unbeaten 
white of an Qgg to each cup of mashed potato. Stir well 
together. Drop by spoonfuls into a frying basket in 
deep fat of the proper temperature. Remove when suf- 
ficiendy brown. Drain on several folds of cheese-cloth. 

Serve hot. 

Potato Croquettes No. 2.— Peel and boil one medium- 
sized onion and three potatoes. Drain, dry off, mash 
fine, add a tablespoonful of rich cream and a teaspoonful 
of butter, or a tablespoonful each of butter and milk— 
an additional spoonful of milk may be added if neces- 
sary to make the mixture sufficiently soft— season with 
salt and pepper, and beat with a wooden spoon till light. 
When slightly stiffened by cooling, form into croquettes 
as directed for creamy chicken croquettes, cover with 
crumbs, then with egg batter, then again with crumbs, 



300 The Art of Cookery. 

and fry in deep fat. Serve with broiled or cold meats, 
or with boiled ham or tongue. 

Potato Croquettes No. 3. — Prepare the potatoes as in 
last formula — with or without onion — flatten to thickness 
of a sixteenth of an inch enough of it for one croquette. 
Have the croquette rectangular in shape, place upon the 
center of it a teaspoonful of minced boiled ham, or any 
highly seasoned meat, cooked and seasoned as for cro- 
quettes or sandwiches, spread the minced meat length- 
wise on the potato, fold up the sides, and pinch the sides 
and ends carefully together. Cover with crumbs, then 
with ^^% batter, then again with crumbs, and fry in a 
basket in deep fat. 

Rice Croquettes No. 2. — Boil and enrich the rice as in 
Rice Croquettes No. i (page 143), omitting the sugar. 
Put a tablespoonful of rice on an oiled plate, flatten to a 
sixteenth of an inch, in rectangular shape, and place upon 
the center a teaspoonful of thick jam, a piece of preserved 
fruit, a teaspoonful of grated pine-apple from which the 
juice has been drained, or of preserved ginger, citron, 
or limes minced fine. Spread slightly lengthwise, fold 
the rice carefully over the fruit with a limber knife, and 
pinch it well and smoothly together at the top and ends. 
Lift the croquette carefully with the knife, cover it with 
Bread Crumbs No. 2, then with ^%% batter, then again 
with Bread Crumbs No. 2, and so proceed until the cro- 
quettes are all prepared, when place in a basket and fry 
in deep fat. Serve with pulverized sugar sifted over 
them, or with the syrup of the fruit used in making them. 

Timbales. — Put into a large cup or small bowl one 
^Z%^ a fourth of a cup of cold water or milk, a pinch of 



Entrees a7id Side Dishes. 301 

salt, and half a cup of flour. Stir with a fork till mixed, 
then beat very light with a Dover beater. Put the tim- 
bale iron in the kettle of hot fat until heated, lift out, 
shake ofl" the fat, wipe lightly, lower into the prepared 
batter about half its length, hold it there half a minute, 
then dip into the kettle of hot fat and cook until the 
timbale cup drops off. Lift the cup from the kettle and 
turn over on cheese-cloth to drain. Repeat the opera- 
tion until all the batter is used. These cups are suitable 
for any purpose where puff paste patties are used, and 
the quantity of batter given will make a dozen cups. 

Timbales of Rice. — Line a buttered baking dish with 
rice prepared as for croquettes — ^but without sugar or 
flavoring — by pressing it over the bottom and sides of 
the dish, leaving it an eighth of an inch thick, brush 
the inside surface with white of ^'g<g slightly beaten, and 
dry ten minutes in a warm oven, then fill the dish three 
fourths full of creamed or hashed chicken, turkey, or 
veal. Bake in the oven half an hour, or until well heated 
through, and serve in the dish in which it was cooked. 

Timbales of Potato. — Press potato, prepared as for 
croquettes, over the inside of a buttered baking dish, 
until it forms a smooth coating a fourth of an inch thick, 
then fill the dish three fourths full of creamed, hashed, 
or otherwise prepared meats, poultry, fish, or eggs, or a 
combination of such, and bake for half an hour, or until 
heated through. If it is desired to serve some very 
soft preparation, in either rice or potato timbales, brush 
the inner surface of the rice or potato with a brush 
dipped in white of ^%^ slightly beaten, and dry in the 
oven a few minutes before filling with the mixture. 



302 The Art of Cookery. 

Chicken Souffle. — To one cup of White Sauce No. 2 
add two cups of very finely chopped breast of chicken, 
a tablespoonful of minced parsley, half a teaspoonful of 
grated lemon peel, and half as much mace. Simmer 
five minutes, remove from the fire, and when lukewarm 
add the whites of four eggs beaten stiff. Put the mix- 
ture into a buttered dish or mold, and steam or bake for 
half an hour, or until stiff in the center, then turn out on 
a warm dish, and garnish lightly with cress or endive. 

Veal, sweetbreads, or any delicate fish can be used in 
place of chicken, and the same formula as for chicken 
be followed. 

Cheese Souffle No. i. — To two cups of rich American 
cheese grated add a fourth of a teaspoonful of mustard 
flour, and the same of salt, and pepper to taste. Beat 
the yolks of two eggs very light, mix with half a cup of 
sweet milk, and stir in the cheese. Melt a tablespoonful 
of butter in a sauce-pan, pour in the cheese mixture, and 
stir constantly over a slow Are until the cheese melts, 
and the mixture becomes smooth and hot — not boiling. 
Remove from the fire, add the well-beaten whites of 
three eggs, pour into a buttered baking dish, and bake 
in a very slow oven about twenty minutes. 

Cheese Souffle No. 2. — To one cup of White Sauce 
No. I add two cups of grated cheese, season to taste, 
add the yolks of three eggs well beaten, and lastly the 
whites beaten stiff. Bake in a very moderate oven, in a 
dish, or in six individual molds. If in the latter, serve 
in the molds in which they are baked. 

Potato Souffle. — To two cups of boiled potato mashed 
fine add one cup of sweet cream, or one tablespoonful of 



Entries and Side Dishes. 303 

butter, and one cup of sweet milk, salt and white pepper 
to taste, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley. Mash 
and beat with a wooden spoon until very light and 
smooth, and when slightly cool whip into the mixture 
the whites of four eggs beaten stiff, or whip the whites 
in, one at a time, unbeaten. Cook, and serve like 
chicken souffle. 

There are omelet souffles, pudding souffles, and a 
variety of fruit, fish, chicken, potato, and rice souffles. 
But a souffle is simply a mixture containing a large pro- 
portion of the white of ^^% beaten stiff and mixed with 
it just before it is put to cook, and when this principle 
is understood, souffles can be multiplied indefinitely, if 
desired, by using the various edibles that are adapted to 
their preparation. 

Welsh Rarebit No. i. — To two cups of grated Ameri- 
can cheese add mustard, pepper, and salt to taste, and 
half a cup of sweet milk with which the well-beaten yolk 
of an Q%% has been mixed. Put a tablespoonful of butter 
in a sauce-pan over the fire, and when melted add the 
cheese mixture. Heat slowly, stirring constantly, until 
the cheese is melted and the mixture becomes a smooth 
paste, then spread on thin slices of buttered or dipped 
toast, and serve hot. 

Golden buck is the same as Welsh rarebit, with 
the addition of a poached ^^%, served on each slice 
of toast. 

Welsh Rafebit No. 2. — Cover slices of dipped toast 
very thickly with grated cheese, seasoned to taste. 
Place on a buttered pan, and put in a hot oven where 
the greatest heat will be at the top. Remove from the 



304 The Art of Cookery. 

oven when the cheese is melted and slightly scorched, 
and serve on small plates. 

Welsh Rarebit No. 3. — Prepare bread as for French 
toast, but, instead of saut€ing, lay the slices upon a 
well-buttered pan, cover with grated cheese seasoned 
with salt and pepper, and cook in the oven until the 
cheese is toasted. 

Cheese Straws No. i. — If the cheese straws are to 
be made of puff paste, roll the paste very thin — if they 
are to be made of flaky pie crust, roll the same thick- 
ness as for pies. When rolled, cut in strips from six to 
ten inches wide, and cut the strips into straws or sticks a 
fourth of an inch in width. Lay upon baking sheets or 
shallow pans, leaving a space between the straws about 
a third as wide as the straws. Grate rich American 
cheese, season to taste with salt and red pepper, and 
scatter quite thickly over the straws, and over the spaces 
between them also. Place in the oven where the great- 
est heat will be at the top, and bake ten or fifteen min- 
utes, or until cooked. Remove from the oven, cut the 
cheese in the center of the spaces between the straws, 
and pile the straws on a plate in the form of a log cabin. 

Cheese Straws No. 2. — To a cup of grated cheese add 
salt and pepper to taste, two tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter, three tablespoonfuls of cold water, and flour 
enough to make a soft dough. Mix with a fork until 
stiff" enough to cleave from the sides of the mixing bowl. 
Lay upon a molding board dusted with flour, sift flour 
over the dough, roll gently until as thin as pie crust, cut 
in strips a fourth of an inch wide, and bake. 

French Toast. — Beat one ^g'g very light, gradually 



Entries a?id Side Dishes. 305 



beat into it a cup of sweet milk, and add a generous 
pinch of salt. Remove the crust from half a dozen slices 
of bread about a quarter of an inch thick, lay them upon 
a platter, and pour part of the ^gg and milk mixture 
over them. After they have soaked a minute turn them 
over carefully, add the balance of the mixture, and after 
they have soaked another minute coat each slice with 
prepared Crumbs No. 2, and saut6 in clarified butter un- 
til richly browned ; or saute in butter, without crumb- 
ing, if preferred. Serve hot with a liquid, a raisin, or a 
cherry sauce, in place of a pudding, or as a sweet entree 
at dinner ; or serve at breakfast, without a sauce. 

Tropical Toast. — Prepare and cook the slices of bread 
a? for French toast. To one cup of raisin sauce add 
half a cup of flaked pine-apple, and half a cup of orange 
pulp cut in small pieces. Heat all together and serve a 
spoonful of fruit on each slice of toast. Or the pine- 
apple may be omitted, and half a cup of thinly sliced 
bananas used in its place. 

Aspic Jelly. — To three pints of veal or chicken broth, 
or a mixture of the two, rich enough to form a jelly 
when cold, add the slighdy beaten whites of two eggs, 
half a cup of celery roots and trimmings cut in small 
pieces, a slice of onion, the thin rind of a lemon, a small 
blade of mace, six cloves, and salt and pepper to taste. 
Put all together in a sauce-pan, and heat slowly until the 
mixture boils, then let simmer for fifteen minutes, add a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice, and strain through two or 
three folds of cheese-cloth. If the jelly is wanted more 
acid a larger quantity of lemon juice can be used. 
Aspic jelly when cold becomes clear and stiff, and is 



3o6 The Art of Cookery. 

served suitably with boned turkey or chicken. It is 
often poured, in liquid form, over prepared meats, in 
the preparation of jellied meats, etc. 

If a dark jelly is wanted beef or mixed stock can be 
used in making it, and, in such case, carrots, bay leaf, 
and allspice may be added to the flavoring, and a table- 
spoonful of tarragon vinegar may be used instead of 
lemon juice. 

Jellied Chicken. — Boil the chicken whole, and, when 
cool, free the best portions from skin and bones. Cut 
the larger pieces of meat into strips half an inch In 
width, and the same thickness, if convenient, and lay 
these strips in an oval or rectangular dish, placing the 
light and dark meat in alternate layers. When the dish 
is full pour in aspic jelly made from the chicken broth, 
cover so as to keep the chicken under the jelly, and set 
in a cold place until firm. Serve for breakfast, luncheon, 
tea, or picnics. 

Pressed Corned Beef. — Arrange the cooked beef in 
a pan or mold as directed for jellied chicken, and pour 
over it the broth in which it cooked, freed from grease, 
and seasoned to taste, or, if preferred, use plain beef 
soup stock in place of the water in which the corned 
beef cooked, cover, put a light weight upon the meat, 
and set in a cold place till firm. 

Pressed Veal. — Stew a piece of veal, free it from skin 
and bones, arrange as directed for corned beef, pour 
over it the broth in which it cooked, press it, and set in 
a cold place till firm. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

BONED MEATS. 

The bones can be removed easily from all kinds of 
meats, poultry, game, and fish by inserting a small, 
sharp knife-blade close to the bone, at the point where 
it is most exposed, or nearest the surface, and cutting 
away and separating from the bone all the flesh, skin, 
ligaments, etc., that are attached to it, until it can be 
removed from its surroundings. 

To Bone and Stuff a Turkey — Singe, wash, and wipe 
dry the skin of the turkey. Cut, from head to tail, 
down the center of the back, through the skin and flesh, 
to the bone. Beginning at the head, scrape the flesh 
from the bones, with a dull-bladed knife, working from 
the back toward the breast, and removing, when reached, 
the shoulder blades and the bones from the upper joints 
of the wings, and also those from the upper joints of the 
legs. Be careful not to cut or break the skin, and when it 
clings to the bone, loosen it carefully with the fingers. The 
flesh should be left adhering to the skin, and as intact 
as possible. If the turkey has not been drawn, cut the 
skin around the vent, lift ofl" the skeleton, and remove 
its contents. Separate the skeleton into pieces, and 
wash them, then cook three or four hours in slightly 
salted water, so as to extract the gelatine and flavor 
from the bones. After the turkey has been boned the 

307 



3o8 The Art of Cookery. 

carcass may be filled with quail, grouse, prairie chicken, 
chicken, veal, or fresh pork, or with a combination of 
part, or all, of these things. Sweetbreads, mushrooms, 
and truffles can also be used in conjunction with other 
articles, and lean ham, beef tongue, and hard-boiled 
eggs are very desirable as part of the filling, because of 
their color and flavor. For a seven or eight-pound 
turkey three and a half or four pounds of filling will be 
needed, also a pint of poultry or veal broth, sufficiently 
strong to become a stiff" jelly when cold. The main 
portion of the material to be used for filling should be 
minced fine, like meat for croquettes, seasoned sharply 
with salt and pepper, and mixed with the broth, after it 
has been warmed until liquid. All the filling material 
must be cooked before it is put in the turkey. 

After all the material has been prepared stuff" the 
boned fowl in this manner : Lay the turkey, skin side 
down, on a large platter. Remove some portions of the 
breast, and lay in the places of the removed portions 
long cubes of lean boiled ham or tongue, and place 
upon these strips a layer of chopped meat. Stuff" the 
wings and second joints from which the bones were 
removed with the chopped meat. Sprinkle with whole 
allspice. Place through the center lengthwise a row of 
hard-boiled eggs, from which the shells have been peeled. 
Cover the eggs with a layer of the chopped meat, some 
cubes of tongue or ham, and the displaced portions of 
the breast. Add mushrooms, truffles, or sweetbreads, if 
desired, and when full enough, draw up over the filling, 
the back of the turkey, and sew the edges of the carcass 
together. Wet the seam with water, and dust flour over 



Boned Meats, 309 



it. Lay the stuffed fowl upon its back, tie the legs and 
wings in position, place it upon a piece of muslin, wrap 
tightly and fasten the muslin securely together along the 
back. Put it, back up, in a steamer and cook for two 
hours, then lay in a roasting pan and cook slowly in the 
oven, until well browned. Baste frequently, while roast- 
ing, with turkey, chicken, or veal broth, well seasoned 
with salt and pepper. After it is done, place in an 
earthen tureen, breast down, to cool, and strain over it 
the broth used for basting. 

Chickens and all kinds of fowls and birds can be boned 
in the same way that a turkey is boned. 

To Bone and Stuff a Leg of Lamb. — Insert the boning 
knife close to the bone at the upper end of the leg. Cut 
the sinews, and scrape the flesh from the bone, half way 
through the leg, then cut and scrape in the same man- 
ner, from the other end of the leg, until the bone can be 
slipped from the meat. After removing the bone, fill 
the cavity from which it has been taken with bread 
crumbs prepared and seasoned as for roast turkey. 
Fasten with skewers, wrap and tie securely, and cook 
the same as boned turkey. Serve cold, with currant, 
grape, plum, or cranberry jelly. 

To Bone and Stuff a Leg of Veal. — Follow the direc- 
tions given for boning a leg of lamb. After the bone 
has been removed stuff the veal with rich sausage meat, 
highly seasoned with salt and pepper, wrap and tie up 
securely, steam for an hour, then roast for two and a 
half hours — basting frequently with water highly seasoned 
with salt and pepper and enriched with a spoonful ot 
butter. 



3IO The Art of Cookery. 

To Bone and Stuff a Leg of Pork. — Select a small leg 
of pork for boning, and follow the directions given for 
boning a leg of lamb. After the bone has been re- 
moved fill the opening with bread crumbs, prepared as 
for stuffing roast turkey, and seasoned with salt, pepper, 
and pulverized sage. Skewer, wrap up, fasten securely, 
and cook as directed for cooking a boned leg of veal. 



I 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

EGGS AND OMELETS. 

Eggs, in whatever form cooked, should be cooked 
gently, and at as low a temperature as possible. Too 
high a temperature in cooking toughens the white of the 
Qgg and renders it indigestible. 

To Boil an Egg, — See under the title Boiling, page 70. 

To Poach an Egg. — Break the egg into a cup, from 
which slip it carefully into water at boiling temperature, 
but not actively boiling. Let it remain until cooked as 
desired, then lift from the water with a spatula or skim- 
mer, and serve on dipped or buttered toast. The water 
in which eggs are poached should be well salted. Egg 
poachers, which hold the eggs in shallow tin cups over 
a pan of boiling water, where they are cooked by the 
steam, are easily handled and very convenient. 

To Saute Eggs. — Break into separate cups as many 
eggs as are to be cooked. Have, smoking hot, in the 
saute pan or spider a teaspoonful of bacon or ham drip- 
pings, or clarified butter for each egg. Put the eggs, 
one at a time, into the pan, and as soon as they are all 
in add two tablespoonfuls of hot water, cover the pan 
with a close-fitting lid, and cook over a quick fire one 
minute, when it will be seen upon lifting the lid that the 
steam has drawn the white neatly over the yolk of each 
egg. Continue the cooking more slowly until done as 

desired, 

311 



312 The Art of Cookery. 

Scrambled Eggs No. i. — Put in an omelet pan half 
a teaspoonful of butter for each ^^^. When the butter 
is hot pour in the eggs, without beating, and when set 
on the bottom of the pan mix or scramble them lightly 
with a fork or spoon. Cook as desired, season to taste, 
and serve. Minced parsley is an excellent flavoring for 
scrambled eggs. 

Scrambled Eggs No. 2. — Put a teaspoonful of butter 
in a sauce-pan, add half a cup of sweet milk or cream, 
and when boiling hot pour in three well-beaten eggs. 
Stir and beat the mixture with a wooden spoon until 
sufficiently cooked, season to taste, and serve. 

Shirred Eggs No. i. — Put in a shirred ^^^ dish a tea- 
spoonful of melted butter for each ^^%. Break the eggs 
separately, slip carefully into the dish, bake to taste in a 
moderate oven, season with salt and pepper, and serve. 

Shirred Eggs No. 2. — Separate the yolks from the 
whites of two eggs, and preserve them unbroken. Beat 
the whites very light, put into a shirred ^^^ dish, and, 
with the back of a spoon, make two small cavities or 
nests, in the beaten white, by packing, at equal distances 
from each other and from the edges of the dish. Put 
the yolks in these cavities, and set the dish in a 
moderately hot oven until the yolks are cooked and the 
ragged points of white nicely browned, then remove, 
season with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve. The 
whites and yolks should be cut up and mixed together 
before they are eaten. Eggs shirred in this manner have 
the flavor of roasted eggs. 

Creamy Omelet. — Beat together lightly four eggs and 
four teaspoonfuls of water, milk, or cream, just enough 



Eggs and Omelets. 313 

to break and mix sufficient to allow a spoonful of the 
mixture to be dipped up. Heat, but be careful not to 
brown, a tablespoonful of butter in an omelet pan. Have 
a pan that will correspond in size to the number of eggs 
used, so that the beaten mixture will cover the bottom 
to the depth of at least half an inch. Pour in the mix- 
ture and place the pan over a quick heat, add salt and 
pepper to taste, and as soon as the o.'g'g ' ' sets ' ' or 
stiffens slightly upon the bottom of the pan, lift it up 
lightly and carefully with a fork, so the uncooked egg 
can take the place of that which is cooked. Continue 
this lifting process as long as there is any uncooked egg 
in the pan, and until all the mixture lies in a soft creamy 
pile of a delicate golden hue. Permit the bottom to set 
quite firmly, then tip the pan slightly, loosen the edges 
with a broad-bladed, limber knife, or spatula, slip it 
under one side of the omelet, and fold over, tipping 
the pan at the same time to facilitate the folding. Then, 
by still further tipping the pan, turn the omelet, nicely 
folded, on a platter and serve hot. 

If minced parsley is desired for flavoring, it should be 
sprinkled over the omelet just before beginning the 
lifting operation. 

Ham Omelet. — Prepare and cook like a creamy omelet, 
and, just before folding, cover the surface of the omelet 
with boiled ham finely minced and warmed. Serve hot. 

Oysters, shrimps, mushrooms, or any admixture liked, 
may, after they are cooked, be added in a similar man- 
ner. Grated cheese may also be scattered thickly over 
the omelet, when first put in the pan, or the omelet may 
be covered lightly with it just before folding. 



314 ^'^^^ -^^^ of Cookery. 

Omelet with Breakfast Bacon. — Broil or saute thin 
strips of breakfast bacon, and garnish a creamy or plain 
omelet with them. 

Light Omelet. — To the yolks of two eggs beaten light 
add two tablespoonfuls of water, milk, or cream, beat 
until well mixed, then fold in the whites of the eggs, 
seasoned to taste with salt and pepper, and well beaten. 
Grease the omelet pan with olive oil or clarified butter, 
heat it, pour in the omelet, and cook for a minute — 
lifting the pan so as to relieve the bottom from too great 
heat, and turning it around on its sides. Then place in 
a moderate oven for about five minutes, or until the 
omelet is firm and lightly cooked to the center — which 
can be ascertained by running a knife into it. Fold, and 
turn out like a creamy omelet. 

Orange Omelet. — To the yolks of two eggs beaten 
light add two tablespoonfuls of orange juice, half a tea- 
spoonful of grated orange peel, and two teaspoonfuls of 
sugar. Beat all well together, fold in lightly the whites 
of the eggs, beaten stiff, cook, fold, and turn out like 
light omelet. 

Omelet Souffle. — To the well-beaten yolks of two 
eggs add three teaspoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful 
of lemon juice, and half a teaspoonful of lemon, orange, 
vanilla, or any flavoring extract liked. Beat very light 
and fold in the whites of four eggs beaten stiff. Put in 
a hot omelet pan, well greased, and cook ten or twelve 
minutes, in a very moderate oven. Slip on to a warm 
dish, without folding. A pinch of cream of tartar added 
to the whites of the eggs improves all omelets containing 
no other acid. 



PART VI.-SERVING AND GARNISHING. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The rules that should govern the serving and garnish- 
ing of food are founded upon common sense, and can 
be compressed into a few words: Use platters larger 
than are necessary for merely holding the food to be 
served, so there may be space on them for garnishing 
material, without having to place it against the food, or 
at the extreme edge of the platter. 

In garnishing aim to produce some distinctive effect — 
either of harmony or contrast— and be careful to garnish 
lightly. Edibles alone should be used for garnishing 
material, and only such edibles as are palatable with the 
food they are used to garnish. 

Elaborate decoration of food, like elaborate decoration 
in any direction, is indicative of an uncultured taste ; 
and ribbons or paper, in such connection, are out of 
place and have a cheap and tawdry appearance. 



315 



CHAPTER XXV. 

CARVING. 

A DULL knife and a platter of insufficient size are the 
dread of a skilled carver. To insure success in carving, 
the carving knife must be sharp and the platter upon 
which a fish, fowl, or joint of meat is sent to table large 
enough to hold the article served upon it and leave 
sufficient space besides for the different portions when 
carved. 

It is in accordance with common sense to either sit or 
stand at table while carving and serving, and is therefore 
good form for one so engaged to take whichever position 
may be most conducive to comfort and effective work. 

To Carve a Turkey. — Place the turkey on its back 

on the platter with the head at the left. Stick the fork 

firmly into the flesh astride the breast-bone. Separate 

the wings from the body at the shoulders. Cut off the 

legs or drumsticks at the lower joint. Insert the point 

of the carving knife close to the thigh joint and cut 

through the flesh of the thigh or second joint, parallel 

with the bone, its entire length on both sides of the 

bone, leaving a strip of flesh not much wider than the 

bone, attached to it. Put the point of the knife under 

the end of this bone and turn it back, thus separating it 

from the body at the joint. After the wings and legs 

and the bones from the second joint have been removed, 

316 



Carving. 3^7 

carve the meat from the breast and sides of the fowl in 
thin sHces, cutting across the grain as long as well-shaped 
slices can be obtained. Take off the wish-bone by put- 
ting the knife under it at the front of the breast-bone and 
turning it back. Slip the knife under the end of the 
shoulder blade, tip the bone over, and remove it. Cut 
through the cartilage which divides the ribs, and sepa- 
rate the back from the breast. Turn the back, skin side 
upward. Lay the edge of the knife across it just below 
the ribs, lift up the tail end with the fork, and thus di- 
vide the back into two pieces. Place the fork in the 
middle of the back-bone and free the side-bone by cut- 
ting close to the back-bone from one end to the other. 
This completes the carving, and leaves the turkey in 
such condition that the different portions can be served 
as desired. If the entire turkey is not needed at a 
meal, only such part of it as is wanted should be carved. 
The method of carving other fowls is similar in most 
respects to that of carving a turkey. 

To Carve a Joint or Roast. — In carving a sirloin 
roast cut out the tenderloin, slice it across the grain, and 
serve before carving the balance of the roast— unless the 
whole roast should be needed. Where a roast is too 
large to be eaten at a single meal it is both wise and eco- 
nomical to serve the best portions while hot, and before 
their finest flavors and richest juices have escaped. In 
carving a leg of lamb or mutton cut several slices cross- 
wise through the thickest part of the leg, then slip the 
knife under, separate them from the bone, and serve. 
If more be required, cut them from the thickest and 
juiciest part of the joint in the same manner. 



31 8 The Art of Cookery. 

As a general rule, all joints of meat, whether roasted 
or boiled, should be carved essentially in the same 
manner, that is, they should be cut in thin slices and 
across the grain of the meat. And whenever practi- 
cable the joint should be so placed and held by the 
carver that the juice will remain upon the surface of the 
meat, and not run out upon the platter. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

BILLS OF FARE. 

A DINNER of five courses is sufficiently elaborate to 
meet the requirements of a cultured taste, and is always 
enjoyable and satisfactory when the dishes composing it 
are judiciously selected and properly served. In such a 
dinner there should be a soup, fish, shell fish, or game, 
poultry or one of the staple meats, a salad, an acid 
vegetable or fruit, and a simple dessert, with salted 
almonds, cheese, or some sort of relish, and also the 
proper accompaniments of the leading dish of each 
course. As great a variety of articles may be presented 
as can be selected within a certain range and grouped 
harmoniously. Yet no article in any one of the courses 
must trench upon the province, or interfere with the 
mission, of any article in any of the other courses of the 
dinner. In other words, no articles that are similar in 
character or flavor must be permitted to appear in 
different courses, except those privileged by established 
custom to remain on the table during the entire meal. 
To illustrate the principle that governs the selection of 
such a dinner a few bills of fare are given. 

If a four-course dinner is desired, it is only necessary 
to drop from any of these bills of fare the fish course. 
If only a three-course dinner is wanted the fish course 
and the salad course can be dropped ; or, if preferred, 

319 



3 2d The Art of Cookery. 

the salad course can be retained and the fish course and 
dessert omitted. 

These bills of fare are not arranged with a view of 
their being taken up consecutively, in the order in which 
they are given. Each dinner is complete in itself, with- 
out an}^ reference to the dinner that precedes or the 
dinner that follows, and the housekeeper is at liberty 
to select from the list the dinner that is best adapted to 
the special occasion. Care must be observed, however, 
not to have dinners on two successive days that corres- 
pond too nearly in their prominent characteristics. 

BILLS OF FARE FOR DINNER. 

No. I. 

Cream of Celery. 

Pickles. Olives. 

Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Birds. Currant Jelly. 



Boiled Mutton. Caper Sauce. 

Mashed Potato. Stewed Turnip. 



Fish and Tomato Salad. 
Saltines. 



Orange Pudding. Cake. 

Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 

Coffee. 



Bills of Fare. 321 

No. 2. 

Mutton Broth. Barley. 

Celery. Pickles. Olives. 

Bread. Butter. 



Scalloped Oysters. Cabbage Salad. 



Roast Turkey. Cranberry Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. Sweet Corn. 



Fruit Salad. 



Ice Cream. Cake. 

Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 

Coffee. 

No. 3. 

Clear Soup. 

Celery. Pickles. 

Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Fish. 
Creamed Potatoes. Cucumbers. French Dressing. 



Roast Beef. 
Browned Sweet Potatoes. Lima Beans. 



Egg Salad. 
Crackers. Cheese. 



Strawberry Jelly. Whipped Cream. 

Cake. Fruit. Nuts. 

Coffee. 



322 The Art of Cookery. 

No. 4. 

Oysters on the Half Shell. 

Lemon Points. Olives. Celery. 

Bread. Butter. 



Mixed Soup. 



Roast Chicken. Giblet Gravy. 

Boiled Potato. Spaghetti with Cheese. 

Fruit Sherbet. 



Lettuce. French Dressing. 

Toasted Crackers. 



Steamed Pudding. Foamy Sauce. 

Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 

CofTee. 

No. 5. 

Boiled Cod. Oyster Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Olives. Pickles. 

Bread. Butter. 



Mushroom Patties. 



Roast Lamb. Mint Sauce. 

Green Peas. Cauliflower. 



Chicken Salad. 



Ice Cream. Cake. 

Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 

Coffee. 



Bills of Far^e. 323 

No. 6. 

Oyster Soup. 

Celery. Olives. 

Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Sweetbreads. Breakfast Bacon. 

Stewed Potatoes. 



Roast Fillet of Beef. Mushroom Sauce. 

Hubbard Squash. Sliced Tomatoes. 



Lettuce Salad. 
Cheese Straws. Salted Almonds. 



Caramel Custard. 

Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 

Coffee. 



No. 7. 

Vegetable Soup. 

Olives. Celery. Pickles. 

Bread. Butter. 



Chicken Croquettes. Mock Bisque Sauce. 

Roast Veal with Dressing. 

Scalloped Tomatoes. Boiled Potatoes. 

Stewed Onions. 



Broiled Birds. 
Chicory. French Dressing. 



Corn-Meal Pudding. 
Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 

Coffee. 



324 '^^^ -^^'^ ^f Cookery. 

No. 8. 

Chicken Soup with Macaroni. 

Olives. Celery. Salted Almonds. 

Bread. Butter. 



Fish Cutlets. 
Sliced Tomatoes. 



Roast Beef. Yorkshire Pudding. 

Stewed Corn. Mashed Potato. 

Prune and Apricot Sauce. 



Water Cress Salad. 



Fig Pudding. Transparent Sauce. 

Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 

Coffee. 



No. 9. 

Clear Soup. 

Celery. , Olives. 

Bread. Butter. 



Boiled Tongue. Tomato Sauce. 



Stewed Chicken. 
Mashed Turnips. Boiled Rice. 



Mixed Fruit Salad. 



Chocolate Cream. Cake. 

Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 

Coffee. 



Bills of Fare. 325 

No. 10. 

Beef Broth. 

Olives. Celery. 

Bread. Butter, 



Chicken Croquettes. Creamed Potatoes. 



oast Pork. 

Boiled Onions. 


Fried 


Apple Sauce. 
Parsnips. 


Lettuce Salad. 




French Pudding. 
Fruit. 


Nuts. 
Coffee. 


Fruit Sauce. 
Cheese. 



No. II. 

Salsify Soup. 

Olives. Pickles. 

Bread. Butter. 



Boiled Fish. Hollandaise Sauce. 

Boiled Carrots. 



Broiled Chicken. 

Stewed Peas. Asparagus. 

Creamed Potatoes. 



Tomato Salad. 



Strawberry Shortcake. 

Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 

Coffee. 



326 The Art of Cookery. 



No. 12. 

Asparagus Soup. 

Olives. Pickles. 

Bread. Butter. 



Boston Baked Beans. 
Brown Bread. 



Roast Beef. 
Browned Potatoes. Stewed Tomatoes. 

Boiled Hominy. 



Broiled Birds. Chicory Salad. 



Bread and Butter Pudding 
Fruit. Nuts. 
Coffee. 


Cheese. 




No. 13. 




Oxtail Soup. 
Celery. 

Bread. Butter. 


Olives. 


Fish Croquettes. 


Tomato Sauce, 


Boiled Lamb. Egg 
Mashed Potato. 


Sauce. 
Spinach. 




Orange Salad. 




Fruit. 


Apple Tapioca. 

Nuts. 

Coffee. 


Cheese. 



Bills of Fare, 



327 



No. 14. 

Mock Bisque. 

Olives. Celery. Pickles. 

Bread. Butter. 



Creamed Chicken on Toast. 



Roast Beef. 

Browned Sweet Potatoes. Boiled Potatoes. 

Stewed Onions. 





Celery Salad. 




Cheese Straws. 




Salted Almonds. 




Custard Pie. 




Fruit. 


Nuts. 
Coffee. 

No. 15. 

Clear Soup. 


Cheese. 


Olives. 




Celery. 


Bread. 




Butter. 


Boiled Trout. 




Drawn Butter. 


Stewed Carrots. Boiled Potatoes. 


Roast Mutton. 


Jelly. 


Baked Sweet Potatoes. 


Mashed Turnips. 


Lettuce Salad 


I. French Dressing. 


Cheese Straws. 




Salted Almonds. 



Ice Cream. Cake. 

Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 

Coffee. 



328 The Art of Cookery. 

No. 16. 

Cream of Potato. 

Olives. Pickles. 

Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Chicken. 
Asparagus on Toast. 



Corned Beef. 

Boiled Carrots. Boiled Turnips. 

Boiled Potatoes. 



Lettuce Salad. French Dressing. 


Rice Pudding. 




Fruit. Nuts. 


Cheese. 


Coffee. 




No. 17. 




Gumbo Soup. 




Olives. 


Celery. 


Bread. 


Butter. 


aked Fish. Brown Butter. 


Sliced Tomatoes 


Boiled Ham. 




Mashed Potatoes. Spinach. 


Macaroni. 


Apple Salad. 





Steamed Fruit Pudding. 

Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 

Coffee. 





Bills of Fare. 




329 


Celery. 
Bread. 


No. i8. 
Tomato Soup. 


Olives. 

Butter. 

es. 

White Sauce. 
HoUandaise. 
Boiled Hominy. 




Sweetbread Timbal 




Boiled Fowl. 

Cauliflower. 
Mashed Potato. 


Sauce 






Lobster Salad. 





Charlotte Russe. 

Crackers. Cheese. 

Fruit. Nuts. 

Coffee. 



No. 19. 

Fish Chowder. 

Olives. Pickles. 

Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Chicken. Creamed Potato. 

Water Cress. 



Baked Ham. Sliced Tomatoes. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. Boiled Rice. 



Fruit Salad. 



Apple Pie. Edam Cheese. 

Fruit. Wafers. Nuts. 

Coffee. 



330 The Art of Cookery. 

No. 20. 

Mock Turtle Soup, 

Celery. Olives. 

Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Oysters on Toast. 



Roast Turkey. Cranberry Sauce. 

Mashed Potato. Browned Sweet Potato. 

Curried Rice. 



Sweetbread Salad. 
Cheese Straws. Salted Almonds. 



Plum Pudding. 

Pumpkin Pie. Cheese. 

Nuts. Fruit. 

Coffee. 



No. 21. 

Green Turtle Soup. 

Celery. Olives. 

Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Quail on Toast. 
Asparagus. Hollandaise Sauce. 

Roast Venison. Jelly. 

Mashed Potato. Stewed Carrots. 

Boiled Macaroni. 



Lettuce. French Dressing. 

Crackers. Cheese. 



Pine-Apple Jelly. 
Fruit. Nuts. 

Coffee. 



Bills of Fare. 331 

The foregoing bills of fare were prepared upon the 
presumption that a five-course dinner is usually served 
in the evening, and is preceded by breakfast and 
luncheon. But as a majority of people adhere to a 
noon-day dinner and as the other meals of the day 
should correspond with, and depend largely upon, the 
structure of the dinner, the bills of fare that follow for 
breakfast, luncheon, and supper are appropriate with 
either evening or mid-day dinners and can be used for 
that purpose without modification, or with such slight 
variations — when any are desired — as will readily sug- 
gest themselves to the mind of the busiest housekeeper. 
Like the dinner bills of fare any of those given for 
breakfast, luncheon, or supper can be used without re- 
gard to the order in which they are arranged. 



BILLS OF FARE FOR BREAKFAST. 
No. I. 

Grapes. 



Cracked Wheat. Cream. 

Bread. Butter. 



Beefsteak. Fried Potatoes. French Rolls. 

Coffee. 



332 The Art of Cookery. 





Bread. 

Fish. 


No. 2. 

Apples. 


Butter. 

Creamed P 
ast. 




Oatmeal. 




Cream. 


Broiled ] 


Buttered To 
Coffee. 


•otatoes. 



No. 3. 
Bananas. 



Farinose. Cream. 

Bread. Butter. 



Lamb Chops. Baked Potatoes. Corn Griddle Cakes. 

Coffee. 



No. 4. 
Melons. 



Rolled Wheat. Cream. 

Bread, Butter. 



Baked Hash. Hot Apple Sauce. 

Boiled Eggs. Rice Muffins. 

Coffee. 



Bills of Fare. 335 

No. 5. 
Grapes. 



Hominy Grits. Cream. 

Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Chicken. Stewed Potatoes. Vienna Rolls. 

Coffee. 



No. 6. 

Oranges. 



Rolled Oats. Cream. 

Bread. Butter. 



Codfish Balls. Poached Eggs on Toast. 

French Rolls. 

Coffee. 



No. 7. 
Mixed Fruits. 



Boiled Rice. Cream. 

Bread. Butter. 



Veal Chops. Brown Hashed Potato. 

Buttered Toast. 

Coffee. 



334 "^he Art of Cookery. 

No. 8. 
Oranges. 



Oatmeal. Cream. 

Bread. Butter. 



Fried Oysters. Breakfast Bacon. 

Creamed Hashed Potato. Corn-Bread. 

Coffee. 



No. 9. 

Grapes and Apples. 

Graham Mush. Cream. 

Bread. Butter. 



Beefsteak. Lyonnaise Potato. 

Whole Wheat Rolls. 
Coffee. 



No. 10. 

Blackberry Mush. Cream. 

Bread. Butter, 



Broiled Ham. Creamy Omelet. 

Baked Potatoes. Federal Bread. 

Coffee. 



Bills of Fare. 335 

No. II. 

Strawberry Shortcake. 
Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Chicken. Creamed Hashed Potato. 

Vienna Rolls. 

Coffee. 



No. 12. 

Raspberries. Cream. 

Bread. Butter. 



Mutton Chops. Fried Potatoes. 

Rice Muffins. 

Coffee. 



No. 13. 

Blackberries. Cream. 

Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Tripe. Breakfast Bacon. 

Creamed Potatoes. Sliced Tomatoes 

Waffles. 

Coffee. 



336 The Art of Cookery. 



No. i\. 

Strawberries. Cream. 

Bread, Butter. 



Broiled Beefsteak. Baked Potatoes. 

Graham Muffins. Sliced Tomatoes. 

Coffee. 



No. 15. 

Melon. 



Oatmeal. Cream. 

Bread, Butter, 



Poached Eggs. Creamed Codfish. 

Boiled Potatoes. French Rolls. 

Coffee. 



No. 16. 
Peaches. 



Barley Grits. Cream. 

Bread. Butter. 



Sweetbreads Sauted. Breakfast Bacon. 

Stewed Potatoes. Graham Muffins. 

CofTee. 



Bills of Fare. 

No. 17. 
Mixed Fruits. 



337 



Farina. 



Bread. 



Cream. 



Butter. 



Broiled Mackerel. Plain Omelet. 

Sliced Tomatoes. Brown Hashed Potato. 

Vienna Rolls. 

Coffee. 



No. 18. 

Peaches. 



Cracked Wheat. 
Bread. 

Frizzled Beef. 

Baked Potatoes. 



Cream. 
Butter. 

Scrambled Eggs. 
Dry Toast. 



Coffee. 



No. 19. 

Oranges. 



Corn-Meal Mush. 
Bread. 

Pork Chops. 

Boiled Potatoes. 



Coffee. 



Cream. 



Butter. 



Apples Sauted. 
Egg-Plant. 



338 The Art of Cookery. 







No. 20. 








Grapes. 


■^ 


Boiled Rice. 




Cream. 




Bread, 
con. 


Butter. 




Liver and Ba 


Lyonnaise Potato. 


Boiled Eggs 


Flannel Cakes. 








Coffee. 








No. 21. 






Mi 


ixed Fruits. 




Rolled Barley. 




Cream. 




Bread. 


Butter. 





Panned Oysters. Broiled Quail. 

Fried Potatoes. Currant Jelly. 

Rice Waffles. 

Coffee. 



BILLS OF FARE FOR LUNCHEON. 



No. I. 

Cream of Celery. 
Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Chicken. Mashed Potato. 

Sliced Tomatoes. 



Vanilla Cream Pie. 

Wafers. American Cheese. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



Bills of Fare. 339 

No. 2. 

Oyster Soup. 
Bread. Butter. 



Boiled Tongue. Tomato Sauce. 

Spinach. Boiled Potatoes. 



Ice Cream. Cake. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 3. 

Cream of Corn. 
Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Fish. Sliced Cucumbers. 

Creamed Potatoes. 



Apple Pie. Edam Cheese. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 4. 

Cream of Chicken. 
Bread. Butter. 



Broiled Lamb Chops. Currant Jelly. 

Fried Potatoes. 



Ice Cream. Cake. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



340 The Art of Cookery. 



No. 5^ 

Cream of Salsify. 
Bread. Butter. 



Chicken Salad. Cold Boiled Ham. 

Potato Croquettes. 



Strawberry Shortcake. 
Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 6. 

Rice Soup. 
Bread. Butter. 



Fried Chicken. Creamed Potatoes. 

Cresses. French Dressing. 



Orange Cream Pie. Pine-Apple Cheese. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 7. 

Okra Soup. 
Bread. Butter. 



Scalloped Oysters. Cabbage Salad. 

Cold Boiled Ham. Browned Sweet Potatoes. 



Orange Pudding. 
Tea or Cocoa. 



Bills of Fare. 341 

No. 8. 

Bisque of Tomato. 
Bread. Butter. 



Cold Roast Veal. 
Spiced Peaches. Brown Hashed Potato. 

Soft Ginger Cake. Saltines. Cheese. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 9. 

Barley Soup. 
Bread. Butter. 



Frizzled Beef. Boiled Potatoes. 

Graham Muffins. 



Squash Pie. Edam Cheese. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 10. 

Brown Soup. 
Bread. Butter. 



Cold Roast Beef. Baked Potatoes. 

Sliced Tomatoes. 



Ice Cream. Cake. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



342 The Art of Cookery. 

No. II. 

Beef Broth. 
Bread. Butter. 



Sauted Egg-Plant. Breakfast Bacon. 

Boiled Rice. Whole Wheat Rolls. 



Plum Pie. Pine-Apple Cheese. Wafers. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 12. 

Mixed Soup. 
Bread. Butter. 



Cold Roast Turkey. Cranberry Jelly. 

Baked Potatoes. Celery. 



Rice Pudding. 
Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 13. 



Tomato Soup. 
Bread. Butter. 



Pork Chops. Apple Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. Corn Crusts. 



Snow Pudding. Wafers. Cheese. 
Tea or Cocoa. 



Bills of Fare. 

No. 14. 

Bisque of Clams. 
Bread. Butter. 



343 



Sweetbread Salad. 
French Rolls. 



Cold Boiled Ham. 
Raspberry Jam. 



Pine-Apple Fritters. 
Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 15. 

Pur^e of Potato. 
Bread. Butter. 



Cold Roast Lamb, Com Oysters. 

Potato Salad. Graham Rolls. 



Huckleberry Pie. Edam Cheese. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 16. 

Hominy Soup. 



Bread. 
Broiled Ham. 



Butter. 
Creamy Omelet. 



Stewed Apricots. 



Lyonnaise Potato. 



Peach Fritters. 
Tea or Cocoa. 



344 '^'^^ ^^^ of Cookery. 



INo. 17. 

Pur6e of Peas. 
Bread. Butter. 



Fried Oysters. Cold Catsup. 

Baked Potatoes. Tropical Toast. 



Pine-Apple Pudding. 
Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 18. 



Noodle Soup. 
Bread. Butter. 



Liver and Bacon. Fried Onions. 

Boiled Hominy. Vienna Rolls. 



Cherry Pie. American Cheese. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 19. 

Vegetable Soup. 
Bread. Butter. 



Beefsteak Pie. Tomato Salad. 

Rice Croquettes. 



Fruit. Saltines. Cheese. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



Bills of Fare. 345 

No. 20. 

Clear Soup. 
Bread. Butter. 



English Meat Pie. Mixed Pickles. 

French Rolls. Orange Marmalade. 



Strawberry Pudding. 
Tea or Cocoa. 



No. 21. 

Clear Soup. 
Bread. Butter. 



Saut6d Sweetbreads. Radishes. 

Breakfast Bacon. Creamed Potatoes. 



Fruits in Jelly. Angel Cake. 

Tea or Cocoa. 



BILLS OF FARE FOR SUPPER. 



No. I. 

Turkey Hash on Toast. Cold Ham. 

Baked Potatoes. Raspberries. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



346 The Art of Cookery. 

No. 2. 

Broiled Beefsteak. Breakfast Bacon. 

Hashed Potato. Dewberries. French Rolls. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 3. 

Cold Roast Beef. Cold Catsup. 

Boiled Rice. Blackberries. Wheat Griddle Cakes. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 4. 

Cold Roast Veal. Baked Potatoes. 

Spiced Plums. Corn Crusts. Sponge Cake. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 

No. 5. 

Broiled Ham. Scrambled Eggs. 

Stewed Potato. Milk Toast. Peaches in Jelly. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 

No. 6. 

Fish Croquettes. Breakfast Bacon. 

Cottage Cheese. Boiled Potatoes, 

Corn-Bread. Jelly Cake, 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



Bills of Fare. 347 

No. 7. 

Frizzled Beef. Baked Potatoes. 

Baking Powder Biscuit. Strawberries. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 8. 

Broiled Chicken. Tomato Salad. 

Fried Potatoes. Waffles. Orange Layer Cake. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 9. 

Codfish Balls. Cold Boiled Ham. 

Apple Salad. Vienna Rolls. Peaches. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 10. 

Cold Roast Lamb. Creamed Potatoes. 

Ripe Currants. French Rolls. Ginger Wafers. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. II. 

Fried Oysters. Cabbage Salad. 

Cold Boiled Ham. Olives. Vienna Rolls. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



34^ The Art of Cookery, 

No. 12. 

Cold Roast Chicken. Fried Potatoes. 

Celery. Olives. Federal Bread. 

Soft Ginger Cake. Edam Cheese. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 13. 

Boned Turkey. Fried Scollops. 

Baked Potatoes. Celery. Vienna Rolls. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 14. 

Scrapple. Cold Roast Mutton. 

Onion Salad. Scalloped Potatoes. 

French Rolls. Nut Cake. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 15. 

Veal Chops. Deviled Crabs. 

Lyonnaise Potato. Graham Rolls. Fruit Jam. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 16. 

Pressed Corned Beef. Spiced Pickles. 

Shirred Eggs. Potato Croquettes. 

Wheat Muffins. Chocolate Cake. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



Bills of Fare. 549 

No. 17. 

Broiled Quail. Currant Jelly. 

Welsh Rarebit. Baked Sweet Potatoes. Imperial Rolls. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 

No. 18. 

Cold Roast Turkey. Scalloped Oysters. 

Potato Croquettes. Cranberry Sauce. Celery. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 19. 

Lamb Chops. Cress. 

Fried Potatoes. Pop-Overs. Blackberries. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 20. 

Cold Boiled Tongue. Panned Oysters. 

Potato Salad. Fruit Jam. Rice Muffins. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



No. 21. 

Pork Chops. Hot Apple Sauce. 

Scalloped Potatoes. Corn Griddle Cakes. 

Bread. Butter. Tea. 



INDEX. 



Almonds, baked .... 63 

" to blanch , . . 63 

Anchovy sauce 133 

Angel cake 247 

Apple fritters 141 

" jelly 174 

'* pie No. I 217 

" " No. 2 217 

'* " No. 3 217 

" " English, No. i 218 

No. 2 218 

** " New England . 218 

" pudding, baked, 

No. I 239 

Apple pudding, baked. 

No. 2 239 

Apple pudding, steamed, 

No. I 236 

Apple pudding, steamed. 

No. 2 236 

Apple roly-poly 237 

" salad No. i . . . 272 

** " No. 2 . . . 272 

" " No. 3 . . . 272 

" sauce 95 

" " cider ... 97 

" strudels 218 

" tapioca pudding . 238 

" tart 224 

** water 158 

Apples, fried 139 

" to bake. No. i . 62 

No. 2 . 62 

" to prepare ... 28 

** to saut6 . . . . 149 



Apples, to stew dried . 
" '* fresh . 
Apricot tapioca pudding 
Apricots, to stew dried 



99 
95 

238 
98 



Arrow-root blanc- mange 229 

Asparagus broth .... 107 

cream of . . . 116 

peas 92 

pur6e of . . . 122 

salad .... 275 

stock . . . . 103 

to boil .... 72 

to can .... 167 

to stew .... 92 

to wash ... 25 

Aspic jelly 305 

Bacon, to prepare .... 23 

" to saut^ 148 

Baked chicken pie . . . 225 
" corn-meal pudding 

No. I 232 

Baked corn-meal pudding 

No. 2 233 

Baked custard 231 

' ' sago custard . . . 232 
" tapioca custard . . 232 
" tapioca pudding . 238 

Baking 46 

Baking powder biscuit 

No. I 197 

Baking powder biscuit 

No. 2 197 

Baking powder biscuit 
No. 3 197 



351 



35^ 



Index. 



Banana cream 258 

fritters 141 

" ice 261 

" pudding 257 

" salad No. i . . . 271 

" " No. 2 . . . 271 

" " No. 3 . . . 271 

*' sauce 245 

" shortcake .... 203 

Bananas, to bake .... 63 

" to saut6 ... .150 

Barley gruel 157 

" rolled, to cook . . 77 

" soup 113 

Batter pudding, steamed . 233 

" " to steam a 83 

Bavarian cream 256 

** ** chocolate 256 

*' ** with eggs 256 

Beans, pur^e of, No. i . . 123 

** " " No. 2 . . 123 

" ♦* No. 3 . . 123 

" to bake 62 

" to boil green string 72 

" to can 167 

" to select 16 

" to stew dried ... 91 

" to stew green . . 90 

*' to string 25 

Beaten biscuit 197 

Beef broth No. i . . . . 108 

" broth No. 2 . . . . 108 

" extract 109 

" frizzled 291 

" stock 103 

" tea No. I 108 

" •• No. 2 108 

** to boil corned ... 70 

*' to boil spiced ... 70 

** to prepare a roast of 22 



Beef, to roast 49 

" to select 10 

'' to stew 86 

Beefsteak pie 224 

" to saut^ .... 151 

" to toast .... 162 

Beet salad No. i , . . . 274 

" *' No. 2 . . . . 275 

" and potato salad . . 275 

Beets, pur^e of 124 

" to boil 73 

" to stew 90 

Berries, to pick over . . 29 

" to select .... 16 

" to wash . . . . 29 

Beverages 77 

Bills of fare 319 

Bird, to bone a 309 

" to draw a 21 

Biscuit, baking powder, 

No. I 197 

Biscuit, baking powder. 

No. 2 197 

Biscuit, baking powder, 

No. 3 197 

Biscuit, beaten 197 

Bisque of clams .... 121 

" " lobster . . . . 121 

** " oysters .... 121 

" " tomato .... 120 

Bisques 120 

Black tea, to make ... 79 

Blackberry jam 173 

jelly 174 

" mush .... 162 

" pie 219 

" pudding . . . 237 

Blanc -mange, arrow -root 229 

" cornstarch . 229 

*' farina . . . 229 



Index. 



353 



Blanc-mange, farinose . . 230 

" Iceland moss 228 

" Irish moss . 228 
" rolled wheat 229 

" sea moss , 228 

. 67 

• 230 

• 230 
. 230 
. 231 
. 242 

• 243 
. 252 

• 252 
. 253 
. 65 

• 307 
, 206 
. 89 
. 206 
. 200 

189 



Boil, how to . . . . 
Boiled custard No. i 
No. 2 
" No. 3 
No. 4 
" No. 5 
No. 6 
" frosting No. i 
No. 2 
No. 3 

Boiling 

Boned meats .... 
Boston brown bread . 

Braising 

Bread, Boston brown 
cakes .... 
compressed yeast 

corn 210 

crumbs, to prepare 27 
entire wheat flour 205 

federal 195 

French 189 

graham 204 

grease in . . . . 191 

liquid yeast . . . 192 

sauce No. i . . . 132 

" No. 2 . . .132 

sugar in 191 

to toast 40 

Vienna .... 189, 191 
whole wheat flour 205 
Bread and butter pudding 

No. I 237 

Bread and butter pudding 
No. 2 238 



Bread -making 182 

Breakfast bacon, omelet 

with 314 

Breakfast bacon, to pre- 
pare 23 

Breakfast bacon, to saute 14S 

Breakfast hash 295 

Broil, how to -. 35 

Broiling 34 

" griddle 41 

" oven 43 

Broth, asparagus .... 107 

beef. No. i . . . . 108 



'' No. 2 . . 
celery .... 
chicken, No. i 
" No. 2 
" No. 3 
clam, No. i . 
" No. 2 . 
mutton, No. i 
No. 2 
oyster . . . 
salsify . . . 
toast .... 
veal .... 
Brown bread, Boston 
Brown butter No. i 
" No 
" No 
" sauce No 
" No 
" No 
" soup No. I . 
" No. 2. 
" No. 3. 
Browned flour gruel 
" hashed potato 
" potato cakes . 
** sliced potatoes 



108 
106 
107 
108 
108 
107 
107 
109 
109 
107 
107 
162 
109 
206 
127 
127 
127 
128 
128 
129 
117 
118 
118 
158 
296 
297 
297 



:^54 



Index. 



Buckwheat cakes No. i . 201 

" No. 2 . 202 

Buns 195 

Butter, brown, No. i . . 127 

No. 2 . . 127 

No. 3 . . 127 

" clarified 147 

" drawn 127 

" parsley, No. i . . 127 

No. 2 . . 127 

" and sugar, creamed 243 

Cabbage, pickled ... . 175 

" salad 273 

** to boil .... 73 

" to prepare . . 25 

" to select ... 15 

" to stew .... 92 

Cake, angel 247 

" citron 250 

" coffee 196 

" delicate 249 

" nut 250 

" pans 248 

" pound 249 

" rich fruit 249 

" soft ginger .... 250 

" sponge 248 

" sunshine 248 

Cake-making 247 

Cakes, bread 200 

" browned potato . . 297 

" buckwheat, No. i 201 

No. 2 202 

" corn griddle, No. i 211 

No. 2 211 

'* flannel 200 

** potato and fish . . 297 

** wheat griddle, No. i 199 

" " " No. 2 199 



Cakes, wheat griddle, No. 3 

Calf's brains, to saut6 

' ' head, to prepare a 

Canning, preserving, and 

pickling 

Caper sauce No. i . 
'' No. 2 . 
Caramel custard . . 
" sauce . . . 
Carrots, pur^e of . . 
to boil . . , 
" to prepare . 
" to select . , 
" to stew . . , 

Carving , 

Catsup, cold ... 

" cucumber . . 
Cauliflower, to boil , 
" to prepare 

'' to select 

Celery broth .... 
" cream of. No. i 
" No. 2 
'' salad .... 
" sauce .... 
" stock .... 
" to prepare . . 
" to select . . . 
" to stew . . . 

Cereals 

" to cook . . . 
Ceylon tea, to make . 
Charlotte Russe No. i 
" No. 2 
Cheese, cottage . . . 
soufli6 No. I 
" No. 2 
" straws No. i 
" No. 2 
Cherries, to can, No. i 



T99 
152 
296 

163 
130 
130 
232 

243 
124 

73 
24 

15 

91 
316 

176 

176 

72 

25 

15 

106 

116 

273 

131 

103 

26 

16 

92 

74 

75 

79 

255 

256 

228 

302 

302 

304 

304 

166 



Index. 



355 



Cherries, to can, No. 2 . . 166 
" to preserve . . 170 

Cherry pie 220 

" pudding, steamed 236 

" sauce 245 

Chestnuts, pur^e of . . .124 
Chicory, to prepare ... 26 
Chicken broth No. i . . . 107 
" No. 2 . . . 108 
" No. 3 . . . 108 
cream of . . . . 116 
creamed .... 283 

creamy 297 

croquettes No. i 144 

" No. 2 144 

No. 3 144 

No. 4 145 

fricasseed ... 291 

fried 145 

jeUied 306 

patties 226 

pie, baked . . . 225 

salad No. i . . . 277 

" No. 2 . . . 277 

" No. 3. . . 277 

" with lettuce 27S 

souffle 302 

stock 104 



68 

38 
89 

54 

151 

84 



to boil a . . . 

to broil a . . . 

to fricassee a . 

to roast a . , 

to saut6 . . , 

to stew a . . 

and oyster hash 293 

with mushrooms, 

stewed 86 

Chicken, with truffles, 

stewed 86 

Chocolate Bavarian cream 256 



Chocolate frostinj^^ .... 253 
" to make . . So, 161 

Chops, fried veal 146 

" to broil .... 37, 42 

" to prepare .... 23 

" tosaut^pork. . . 151 

veal ... 150 

Chowder, clam 120 

" fish 120 

Cider apple sauce .... 97 

Cinnamon rolls 196 

Citron cake 250 

Clam broth No. i 107 

" No. 2 ... . 107 

" chowder 120 

Clams, bisque of 121 

deviled 289 

" to steam 82 

Clarified butter 147 

Clear soup 109, no 

" " with curry . . no 
" "dainty dump- 
lings no 

Clear soup with fancy vege- 
tables Ill 

Clear soup with macedoine 

vegetables iii 

Clear soup with mixed 

flavoring in 

Clear soup with poached 

eggs no 

Clear soup with sliced 

lemon no 

Clear soup with tapioca . 1 10 
Coal fire, management of 30 

Cocoa No. I 161 

" No. 2 161 

No. 3 161 

" to make 80 

Codfish balls 144 



356 



Index. 



Codfish cakes, to saut^ . 

* ' creamed 

" scalloped .... 
" and oysters, scal- 
loped 

Coffee cake 

' ' crust 

" hygienic 

" ice cream 

" to make, No. i . . 
No. 2 . . 
No. 3 . . 

Cold catsup 

Compound stock 

Compressed yeast .... 
" bread . 

Cooked frosting 

" mayonnaise dress- 
ing 

Cookery, sick-room . . . 
Cooking, methods of . . . 

Corn, cream of 

" crusts 

'* dodgers 

" fritters 

" griddle cakes No. i . 

No. 2 . 

'* muffins No. i . . . 

" No. 2 . . . 

" fried . . . 

* ' oysters 

" soup 

" to bake. No. i . . . 
No. 2 . . . 

" to boil 

" to can 

'* to select green . . . 

" to steam 

" to stew 

Corned beef, pressed . . . 



154 j Corned beef, to boil ... 70 

285 I Corn-bread 210 

287 I " fried 140 

Corn-meal 207 



288 
196 
158 

79 
262 

77 
78 
78 
176 
104 
186 
189 
251 

281 
156 

33 

117 

210 

209 

141 

211 

211 

210 

210 

140 

153 

113 

61 

61 

72 

167 

16 

82 

91 
306 



" granulated . . 208 

gruel 157 

*' mush 211 

** pudding,baked, 

No. I 232 

Corn-meal pudding,baked, 

No. 2 233 

Cornstarch blanc-mange, 

No. I 229 

Cornstarch blanc-mange, 

No. 2 229 

Cottage cheese 228 

Crab-apple jelly 175 

Crabs, deviled 289 

" to saut^ 152 

Cracked wheat muffins . 207 
" " rolls . . 207 
" " to cook . 77 
Cracker crumbs, to pre- 
pare 27 

Cranberries, to stew, No. i 96 
' " No. 2 96 

Cranberry jelly 96 

" tart 224 

Cream, banana 258 

" Bavarian .... 256 
" " with eggs 256 
" chocolate Bava- 
rian 256 

Cream dressing 281 

" ice. No. I . . . . 262 
'* ice. No. 2 . . . . 262 
" ice, No. 3 . . . . 262 

" mock 242 

" orange 257 

" pie, lemon . . . 223 



Index. 



357 



Cream pie, orange . . . 223 

" ** vanilla .... 223 

" pine-apple .... 257 

" plain 241 

" strawberry .... 258 

" whipped 241 

Cream of asparagus . . . 116 

" " celery No. i . . 115 

" No. 2. . 116 

" " chicken .... 116 

" " corn 116 

" " salsify 116 

" " yeal 117 

Creamed asparagus patties 226 

" butter and sugar 243 

" celery patties . . 226 

** chicken .... 283 

** codfish .... 285 

fish 283 

" green pea patties 226 

" lobster 284 

" macaroni .... 285 
" mock terrapin 

patties 226 

Creamed mushroom pat- 
ties 226 

Creamed oyster patties . . 226 

" oysters No. i . 284 

*' ** No. 2 . 284 

" potatoes .... 285 

" rice 234 

sago 234 

** salmon .... 285 
" shrimps .... 284 
" sweetbread pat- 
ties 226 

Creamed sweetbreads . . 284 

" tapioca .... 284 

" toast 285 

Creamy chicken croquettes 297 



Creamy omelet 312 

Crescents 195 

Cress, to prepare .... 26 

Croquettes, chicken. No. i 144 

** No. 2 144 

. " No. 3 144 

" No. 4 145 

" creamy chicken 297 

143 
143 
143 
299 
299 
300 

143 
300 
144 

145 

145 

27 

27 

27 



fish . . . 
" hominy . 

lobster . . 
** potato. No. 

" No 
" No 
" rice, No. i 

'' No. 2 
" shrimp . . 

" sweetbread 

veal . . . 
Crumbs No. i . . . 
No. 2 ... . 
No. 3 . . . 

Crust, coffee 

Crusts, corn 

Cucumber catsup . . 
" pickles . . 

salad . . . 
" and fish salad 

Cucumbers, to prepare 
" to select 

" to stew 

Currant jam . . . 
" jelly. . . 
" salad . . 
Curried oysters . 
" rice . . . 
toast . . 
Custard, baked . 
" boiled, No. i 
No. 2 



158 
210 
176 
177 

273 

279 

26 

16 

91 

173 

175 

270 

288 

286 

286 

231 

230 

230 



o5^ 



Index. 



Custard, boiled, No. 3 . . 230 

" " No. 4 . . 231 

** " No. 5 . . 242 

«* •' No. 6 . . 243 

** caramel .... 232 

" pie 222 

" sago 232 

" tapioca 232 

Custards, to bake .... 64 

Cutlets, lobster 298 

Damson pie 220 

Damsons, spiced 177 

Delicate cake 249 

"■ desserts .... 254 

Deviled clams 289 

'* crabs 289 

" eggs 290 

" lobster 290 

Diamonds, graham . . . 205 

Dipped toast 286 

Dodgers, corn 209 

Dough, the proper consis- 
tency of 189, 191 

Dough, when sufficiently 

light 190 

Doughnuts, fried 139 

Drawn butter 127 

Dressing, cooked mayon- 
naise 281 

Dressing, cream 281 

" French, No. i . 280 

" " No. 2 . 280 

** mayonnaise . . 280 

Duck, to roast wild ... 55 

Egg nog 159 

Egg pastry 216 

** plant, to saut6 .... 147 

*' ** to select ... 16 



Egg salad No. i 279 

" No. 2 279 

sauce 128 

to boil an . . . . 70, 311 

to poach an 311 

to saut6 an 311 



whips 

" with syrup , 

Eggs, deviled 

scalloped. No. i . 

No. 2 . 

scrambled. No. i 

No. 2 

shirred, No. i . . 

No. 2 . . 



159 
160 
290 
288 
288 
312 
312 
312 
312 



to select 13 

83 
311 
218 
218 

79 
226 



to steam 

and omelets . . . 

English apple pie No. i . 

'* No. 2. 

' ' breakfast tea . 

English meat pie . . . 

Entire wheat flour bread 

'' gruel 

Entrees and side dishes. 



205 
158 
283 



Farina blanc-mange . . . 229 

" gruel 157 

" how to cook ... 77 

Farinose blanc-mange . . 230 

gruel 157 

" how to cook . . 77 

Federal bread 195 

Fig pudding 240 

Fish balls 144 

" cakes 154 

** chowder 120 

" creamed 283 

" croquettes 143 

" deviled 290 



Index. 



359 



Fish fried 146 

** hash 292 

" pie 225 

" sauce 130 

** scalloped, No. i . . 2S7 

No. 2. . . 287 

" stuffing for 28 

" to bake a 56 

" to boil a 69 

" to bone a 22 

" to broil a 39, 45 

" to prepare a .... 21 

" to prepare salted . . 24 

" to saut6 152 

** to select 14 

" to steam a 81 

' ' turbans 299 

Flaky pie crust 215 

Flannel cakes 200 

Flour 184 

" gluten in 184 

" graham 205 

" nitrogenous matter 

in 184 

Flour, pastry 186 

" patent 184, 185 

** spring wheat . . . . 186 

" strength of 185 

" winter wheat .... 186 

Foamy sauce No. i . . , 244 

" No. 2 . . . 244 

Food materials 17 

care of. . 18 
" " preparation 

of 20 

Fowl, to boil a 69 

* ' to bone a 309 

" to carve a 317 

* ' to draw a 20 

** to pick a 20 



Fowl, to wash a 20 

French bread 189 

' dressing 280 

' pancakes 199 

' pudding 234 

' rolls No. I . . . . 193 

" No. 2 . . . . 193 

" No. 3. ... 194 

' toast 304 

Fricasseed chicken . . . . 29 t 

" oysters .... 290 

" salt pork . . . 291 

Fricasseeing 88 

Fried apples 139 

" chicken 145 

" corn-bread 140 

" corn muffins .... 140 

" doughnuts 139 

" fish 146 

" mush 146 

" onions 139 

" oysters 146 

" potatoes 138 

" prairie chicken . . . 145 

" quail 145 

" veal chops 146 

Fritters, apple 141 

" banana 141 

" corn 141 

" oysters 142 

" peach 141 

" pine-apple .... 141 

" plain 140 

" sweetbread . . . 142 

Frizzled beef 291 

Frosting 251 

" boiled, No. i . . 252 

No. 2 . . 252 

" No. 3. . 253 

" chocolate .... 253 



36o 



hidex. 



Frosting, uncooked. ... 251 

Fruit cake 249 

** pudding, steamed . 236 

" salads 269 

" toast 162 

** and bread puddings 238 

** " rice puddings . 238 

Fruits, to cook fresh . . 94 

dried . . 97 

" to select 16 

" in jelly 258 

Frying 136 

Gems, graham 205 

** " with eggs . 206 

** sour 

milk 206 

Gems, graham, with sweet 

milk 206 

German coffee cake . . . 196 
Giblets, stewed, with 

mushrooms 292 

Ginger cake 250 

" wafers 250 

Glaze 134 

Gluten 184 

" gruel 158 

Gooseberries, to stew 

green 96 

Gooseberry marmalade . 174 

" pie 220 

Graham bread 204 

" diamonds . . . 205 
" flour gruel ... 158 
" gems, plain . . 205 
" " with eggs 206 

** " with sour 

milk 206 

Graham gems with sweet 
milk 206 



Granulated corn-meal . , 208 
Grape jelly 175, 254 



*' marmalade . . . 


174 


" pie 


220 


Grease in bread .... 


191 


Green pea patties . . . 


226 


" tea 


79 


" tomato pickles . 


176 


" turtle soup . . . 


119 


Griddle broiling . . . 


41 



'' cakes, corn, No. i 211 

" No. 2 211 

*' " wheat. No. i 199 

" No. 2 199 

" No. 3 199 

" to broil chops on a 42 

" " oysters on a 43 

" " steaks on a 42 

Grouse, to broil 39 

*' to saut6 .... 152 

Gruel, barley 157 

" browned flour . .158 
" corn-meal . . . . 157 

" farina 157 

** farinose 158 

" gluten flour . . . 158 
" graham flour ... 158 
" Irish moss .... 158 

'' oatmeal 157 

" peeled wheat flour 158 

" rice 157 

" rolled wheat . . . 157 
" sea moss .... 158 
" white flour .... 157 
" whole wheat flour 158 

Gruels 156 

Gumbo soup 118 

Ham, for baking or boiling, 

to prepare a . . . . 23 



Index. 



361 



Ham omelet 313 

" to boil a 69 

" to broil 40 

" to prepare 23 

*' to saute 148 

" to select 13 

Hamburg steak, to saut^ . 151 

Hash, breakfast 295 

" chicken and oyster 293 

*' fish 292 

mutton 295 

" to saut6 154 

turkey 293 

" turkey and oyster . 293 

" veal 294 

Hashed potato 296 

Heart, to bake a . . . . 55 

" to braise a . . . . 90 

Hollandaise sauce No. i . 133 

•* " No. 2 . 133 

Hominy croquettes . . . 143 

muffins 212 

rolls 212 

soup 113 

to cook .... 77 

to saut6 .... 153 

Huckleberry pie . . . . 220 

" pudding . . 238 

" pudding, steamed 237 

Hygienic coffee, to make 79 

Ice, banana 261 

** lemon 261 

" orange 261 

" strawberry 261 

Ice cream No. i 262 

" '« No. 2 262 

*< " No. 3 262 

** " coffee .... 262 

** " pine-apple . . 262 



Ice cream, strawberry . . 262 
Iceland moss blanc-mange 228 

Imperial rolls 193 

Irish moss blanc-mange . 228 
" gruel . . . . 158 

Jam, blackberry 173 

" currant 173 

" raspberry 172 

** strawberry 172 

Jams 94 

Jellied chicken 306 

Jellies 94 

Jelly, apple i74 

" aspic 305 

'* blackberry ... .174 
"■ crab-apple .... 175 

" cranberry 96 

" currant 175 

" fancy fruits in . . . 258 

" grape 254 

" lemon 254 

" mock peach . . . . 255 

" nectarine 255 

" orange 254 

" peach 255 

" peaches in 258 

" pine-apple 255 

" plum 255 

" quince i75 

" raspberry . . . 174, 255 
" sauce No. i . . . . 129 
** " No. 2 . . . . 129 
" " No. 3 .... 130 
" strawberry . . 174, 255 

Joint, to carve a 317 

Junket No. i 228 

•' No. 2 228 



Koumiss, to make 



So 



362 



Index. 



Lamb chops, to broil 
" " to saut^ 

" to boil a leg of 
** to bone a leg of 
** to fricassee . . 
* * to prepare a leg of 
" to roast . . . 
** to roast a leg of 
" to select . . . 
" to stew .... 
Lemon cream pie . . 

" ice 

" jelly .... 
" pie No. I . . 
'' No. 2 . . 
" sauce .... 
" sherbet . . . 
Lemonade No. i , 
No. 2 , 
No. 3 . 
Lemons, to wash . 
Lentils, pur6e of . 
Lettuce salad . . . 
" to prepare . 
" to select . 
Light omelet . . . 
Lima beans, to can . . 

Liquid sauce 

" * * transparent 

" yeast 

" bread . . 
Liver, to bake a . . 
" to broil . . 
" to prepare . 
** to saut6 . . 
Lobster, bisque of . 
" creamed . 
" croquettes 
cutlets . . 
" deviled . . 



150 
69 

309 
89 

23 
52 
52 
12 
88 
223 
261 

254 
222 
223 

245 
260 
160 
160 
160 
30 

125 

272 

26 

16 

314 
167 

245 
244 
192 
192 

55 
38 
24 

155 
121 
284 

143 
298 
290 



Lobster salad . . . 

" sauce No. i 
'* No. 2 

" scalloped . 
Lyonnaise potato . . 



27\ 

133 

133 
289 

297 



Macaroni, creamed . . . 285 

" soup 113 

" to boil .... 72 

Mace sugar 245 

Marketing 7 

Marmalade, gooseberry . 174 

grape . . . . 174 

" orange . . . 173 

" peach .... 174 

" pine-apple , . 173 

" plum . ... 174 

Marmalades 94 

Mayonnaise dressing . . . 280 

" cooked 281 

Meat, how to select ... 10 

" pie, English .... 226 

" '* scrap 224 

" sauces 126 

Meats, to braise 89 

Mixed fish salad .... 279 

" fruit sherbet . . . 260 

" salads 275 

" soups 115 

" soup stock No. I . 104 

" soup stock No. 2 . 105 

Mixing 179 

Mock cream 242 

" peach jelly .... 255 

" terrapin 295 

" " patties . . . 226 

" turtle soup ... . 118 

Muffins, corn, No. i . . . 210 

" *' No. 2 . . . 210 

" " fried ... 140 



Index. 



363 



Muffins, cracked wheat . . 207 j 

" hominy 212 

" oatmeal 207 

rice 198 

" wheat 207 

" No. I . . . 198 

" No. 2. . . 198 

'• No. 3 . . . 198 

Mush, blackberry .... 162 

** corn-meal . . . . 211 

" fried 146 

" to saute 14S 

Mushroom patties .... 226 

" sauce .... 128 

" fresh . . 128 
Mushrooms, stewed chicken 

with 86 

Mushrooms, to stew ... 91 

Mutton broth No. i . . . 109 

" No. 2 . . . 109 

" chops, to broil , . 37 

" hash 295 

" to boil a leg of . , 69 

" to fricassee ... 89 
" to prepare a leg of 23 

" to roast 51 

** to roast a leg of . 52 

** to select .... 12 

" to stew 87 

Nectarine jelly 255 

New England apple pie . . 218 

Noodle soup 114 

Nun's puffs 142 

Nut cake 250 

Oatmeal gruel 157 

" how to cook . . 77 

" muffins .... 207 

'* rolls 207 



Oats, rolled, how to cook 77 

Okra soup No. i 113 

" " No. 2 114 

" No. 3 115 

" to stew 92 

Omelet, creamy 312 

ham 313 

light 314 

" orange 314 

" souffle 314 

*' with breakfast 

bacon 314 

Onion salad 273 

Onions, fried 139 

" to bake 61 

" to saut6 147 

" to select 16 

" to stew 92 

Oolong tea, to make ... 79 

Orange cream 257 

" pie .... 223 

ice ........ 261 

jelly 254 

marmalade .... 173 

omelet 314 

pie 223 

pudding 257 

salad 270 

sauce 244 

sherbet 260 

shortcake .... 203 

Orangeade 160 

Oranges, to wash .... 30 

Oven broiling 43 

"■ how to test temper- 
ature of 49 

Oven, temperature for bak- 
ing bread 190 

Oven, temperature for bak- 
ing cake 48 



3^4 



Index. 



Oven, temperature for 

roasting meats .... 

Oven, temperature for 

roasting poultry . . . 

Oven, to broil a chicken in 

'* to broil a fish in . 

" to broil a quail in 

" to broil a rabbit in 

' * to broil a squirrel in 

Ox-tail soup 

Oyster broth 

fritters 

patties 

pie 

sauce 

Oysters, bisque of ... . 
creamed, No. i . 
No. 2 . 

curried 

fricasseed .... 

fried 

panned 

raw 

stewed 

to broil 

" on a griddle 

to saute 

to scallop, No. I . 

" No. 2. 

to steam .... 



Pancakes, French . 
Panned oysters . . 
Parsley butter No. i 



" No. 2 
" sauce No. i 
•* No. 2 
Parsnips, purt^e of . 
toboil . . 
" to saut6 . 



49 

48 

44 

45 

44 

45 

45 

115 

107 

142 

226 

225 

131 
121 
284 
284 
288 
290 
146 
288 

275 
284 

39 

43 
153 
57 
57 
81 

199 
288 
127 
127 
130 
130 
124 
73 
150 



Parsnips, to select .... 15 

" to stew .... 93 

Paste, puff 213 

Pastry, q%% 216 

" potato 217 

" suet 216 

" and pie 213 

Patties, creamed asparagus 226 
** " celery . . . 226 
" chicken. . 226 
** " green peas 226 
" " mock ter- 
rapin 226 

Patties, creamed mush- 
room 226 

Patties, creamed oyster . 226 
sweet- 
bread 226 

Patty cases 215 

Pea soup 113 

Peach fritters 141 

" jelly 255 

" marmalade .... 174 

" pie 221 

'' tapioca pudding . . 238 

Peaches in jelly 258 

** spiced 177 

" to can 165 

" to pare 28 

" to preserve . . . 168 
" to remove the 

skins from 28 

Peaches, to stew dried . . 99 

" to stew fresh . . 97 

Pears, to bake 63 

" to can 166 

" to preserve .... 169 

" to stew 96 

Peas, pur^e of 122 

" to can 167 



Index. 



365 



Peas, to select 16 

" to shell 25 

" to stew 93 

Peeled wheat flour bread 205 

" gruel 158 

Pickled cabbage . . . . 175 

" cucumbers . . . 177 

** green tomatoes . 176 

Pie, apple. No. i .... 217 

" No. 2 . . . . 217 

" No. 3 . . . . 217 

baked chicken . . . 225 

beefsteak 224 

blackberry 219 

cherry 220 

crust, flaky 215 

custard 222 

damson 220 

English apple, No. I . 218 

*' No. 2 . 218 

English meat .... 226 

fish 225 

gooseberry 220 

grape 220 

huckleberry 220 

lemon. No. i . . . . 222 

" No. 2 . . . . 223 

lemon cream .... 223 

New England apple . 218 

orange 223 

orange cream .... 223 

oyster 225 

peach 221 

pie-plant 220 

plum 220 

potato 222 

pumpkin 221 

raspberry, No. i . . . 219 

'* No. 2 . . . 219 

scrap meat 224 



Pie, squash 222 

" strawberry, No. i . . 219 
No. 2 . . 219 
" sweet potato .... 221 
* ' sweetbread and mush- 
room 225 

Pie, vanilla cream .... 223 

Pie-plant pie 220 

" to stew .... 96 

Pine-apple cream .... 257 

" fritters .... 141 

" ice cream . . . 262 

jelly 255 

" marmalade . . 173 

" salad 271 

" sauce 245 

" sherbet .... 261 

*' shortcake . . . 204 

Pine-appleade 161 

Pine-apples, to can . . . 165 

" to preserve . 169 

Piquant sauce No i . . . 129 

" " No. 2 . . . 129 

Plain cream 241 

" fritters 140 

" soup 106 

Plum jelly 106, 255 

" marmalade .... 174 

" pie 220 

" pudding No. i . . . 240 

" " No. 2 . . . 240 

No. 3 . . . 241 

Plums, to can 166 

" to preserve .... 170 
* ' to remove the skins 

from 28 

Plums, to stew 97 

" to stew dried ... 99 

Pop-overs 202 

Pork chops, to broil ... 38 



366 



Index. 



Pork chops, to saut6 . 

" fricasseed salt . 

" to bone a leg of. 

' ' to roast fresh . . 

a leg of. 

" to select .... 

Potato, browned hashed . 

sliced. . 

" cakes, browned . 

" croquettes No. i . 

" " No. 2 . 

N0.3. 

" hashed 

" Lyonnaise .... 

" pastry 

" pie 

** puree of 

" salad No. i . . . 
'' No. 2 . . . 

" souffle 

" timbales of . . . . 

" and fish cakes . . 

Potatoes, browned sliced . 

" creamed .... 

" fried 

" scalloped, No. i . 
No. 2. 

** to bake 

" to boil 

" to prepare . . . 
" to saut^ .... 
** to select .... 
" to steam .... 

" to stew 

Poultry, stuffing for . . . 
" to braise .... 

" to select 

Pound cake 

Prairie chicken, fried . . . 
to broil . 



151 
291 
310 
53 
53 
13 
296 
297 
297 
299 
299 
300 
296 
297 
217 
222 
122 
274 
274 
302 
301 
297 
297 
285 
138 
286 
286 
58 

71 
24 

149 

15 
82 

93 

27 

89 

13 



152 
306 
506 

99 

98 

239 
239 
232 

233 
238 
238 



Prairie chicken, to saut^ . 

Pressed corned beef . . . 
veal 

Prunellas, to stew 

Prunes, to stew dried . . . 

Pudding, baked apple, No, 
I 

Pudding, baked apple. No. 
2 

Pudding, baked corn-meal, 
No. I 

Pudding, baked corn-meal. 
No. 2 

Pudding, baked sago . . . 
tapioco . 

Pudding, banana 257 

' ' bread and butter, 
No. I 237 

Pudding, bread and butter, 

No. 2 238 

Pudding, fig 240 

" French 234 

" fruit and bread . 238 
" " and rice . . 

" huckleberry . . 

" orange 

" plum, No. I . . 
" No. 2 . . 
" No. 3 . . 
" sauces . . . 227, 241 

" snow 257 

" souffle 233 

" steamed. No. i . 235 

" " No. 2 . 235 

No. 3. 235 

No. 4. 235 

apple. 



238 
238 

257 
240 
240 
241 



249 No. I 236 

145 Pudding, steamed apple, 
39 No. 2 236 



Index. 



367 



Pudding, steamed batter . 
black- 
berry 

Pudding, steamed cherry . 
" ♦* fruit., 
huckle- 
berry 

Pudding, suet 

Puddings 

Puffs, nun's 

Pumpkin pie 

Pur^e of asparagus .... 
beans No. i . . . 
" No. 2. . . 
" No. 3. . . 

beets 

carrots 

chestnuts .... 

lentils 

parsnips .... 

peas 

potato 

salsify 

sorrel 

spinach 

tomato No. i . . 

" No. 2 . . 

" No. 3 . . 

turnip 



Purees 



Quail, fried .... 
" roast , . . . , 
to broil . . . . 
** to saut4 . . . 
Queen Ann rolls . . . 
Quince jelly .... 
Quinces, to can . . 
" to preserve 



233 

237 
236 
236 

238 

235 
227 
142 
221 
123 
123 
123 
123 
124 
124 
124 

125 
124 
122 
122 
124 

125 
124 
122 
122 
122 
124 
121 

145 
55 
39 
152 
195 
175 
165 
169 



Rabbit, to saut6 152 

" to stew 88 

Raisin sauce 245 

Raisins, to stew 99 

Rarebit, Welsh, No. i . . 303 

** No. 2 . . 303 

" No. 3. . 304 

Raspberries, to preserve . 172 

Raspberry jam 172 

jelly . . . 174, 255 

" pie No. I . . . 219 

" No. 2. . . 219 

" shortcake. . . 203 

Rice, creamed 234 

" croquettes No. i . . 143 

No. 2 . . 300 

" curried 286 

" gruel 157 

" muffins 198 

" pudding 64 

" soup 113 

" timbales of 301 

" to boil 74 

" to steam 82 

" to wash 30 

Roast, how to carve a . . 317 

" turkey 53 

Roasting 46 

" meats, tempera- 
ture of oven for, 47, 48, 50 

Roasting poultry' 47 

Rolled barley, how to 

cook 77 

Rolled oats, how to cook . 77 
'* wheat blanc-mange 229 

" " gruel. . . . 157 
" '* how to cook 77 

Rolls, cinnamon 196 

' ' cracked wheat . . . 207 

" French, No. i . . . 193 



368 



Index. 



Rolls, French, No. 2 . 

" No. 3 . 

** hominy .... 

" imperial .... 

" oatmeal .... 

" Queen Ann . . 

Roly-pol}'', apple . . . 

fruit . . . 

" to steam a 

Russe, Charlotte, No. i 

No. 2 

Sago, creamed .... 
" custard, baked. 
" pudding, baked 
Salad, apple. No. i . 
" No. 2 . . 
" No. 3 . . 
*' asparagus . . . 
" banana, No. i . 
No. 2 . 
" No. 3 . 
" beet. No. i . . 
" No. 2 . . 
" " and potato 

'^ cabbage . . . 
" celery .... 
** , chicken. No. i 
No. 2. 
No. 3. 



with lettuce 278 



193 
194 
212 

193 

207 

195 
237 
237 
83 
255 
256 

234 
232 
238 
272 
272 
272 

275 

271 
271 
271 
274 

275 
275 
273 
273 
277 
277 
277 



" cucumber .... 

and fish 
" currant ..... 
" dressing, cooked 
" " cream , . . 

" French, No. 

I 

Salad dressing, French, 
No. 2 



273 
279 
270 
28 1 
281 

2S0 

280 



Salad dressing, m a y o n - 

naise 280 

Salad dressings 280 

" *' season- 
ing for. No. I . . . . 282 
Salad dressings, season- 

ing for, No. 2 282 

Salad dressings, season- 

ing for. No. 3 . . . . 282 

Salad, ^^%^ No. i . . . . 279 

" No. 2 279 

" fish 276 

" lettuce 272 

" lobster 276 

" mixed fish .... 279 

'* onion 273 

" orange 270 

" oyster 275 

" pine-apple .... 271 

" potato, No. I . . . 274 

" No. 2 ... 274 

" salmon 276 

*' shrimp 276 

" spinach 275 

" strawberry .... 270 

" sweetbread, No. I . 278 

No. 2. 278 

" tomato, No. i . . . 273 

No. 2 . . . 274 

"■ " and fish . . 279 

Salad-making 268 

Salads, fruit 269 

*' mixed 275 

" vegetable .... 272 

Salisbury steak, to saut^ . 151 

Salmon, creamed 285 

" salad 276 

" scalloped .... 289 

Salsify broth 107 

" cream of 116 



Index. 



369 



Salsify, pur6e of . 

" sauce . . . 

" soup . . . 

'* stock. , . 

" to prepare 

" to saut6 . 

" to select , 

" to stew. . 
Salt codfish, scalloped 

" pork, fricasseed 
Sauce, anchovy . . 

" banana . . . 

" bread, No. i 
No. 2 

" brown, No. i 
No. 2 
No. 3 

** caper, No. i 
No. 2 

" caramel . . 

" celery . . . 

" cherry . . . 

^ZZ • ■ - • 

fish ... . 

** foamy, No. i 

No. 2 

** fresh mushroom 

** HoUandaise, No 



jelly, No. I . 

" No. 2 . 

" N^o. 3. 
lemon . . . 
liquid . . . 
lobster. No. i 
No. 2 
mushroom . . 
orange. . . . 
oyster . . . . 
parsley, No. i 



124 

131 
113 
103 
24 
150 

15 
92 
287 
291 
133 
245 
132 
132 
128 
128 
129 
130 
130 
243 
131 
245 
128 
130 

244 
244 
128 
133 



No. 2 133 
. 129 



129 
130 

245 
245 
133 
133 
128 
244 

131 
130 



Sauce, parsley. No. 2 
" pine-apple . . 
" piquant, No. i 
No. 2 
" raisin .... 
" salsify .... 
" shrimp .... 
" strawberry . . 
** tartare .... 
*' tomato, No. i. 
No. 2. 
" No. 3. 
No. 4. 
" No. 5. 
" transparent liquid 
" white. No. i 
" No. 2 
" No. 3 
" No. 4 
Sauces, meat . . . 
white . . . 
Sausage, to saut6 . 

Sautding 

Scalloped eggs No. i . 

" No. 2 . 

fish No. I . . 

'* No. 2 . . 

" fresh fish an 

oysters 

Scalloped lobster . . . 

" oysters No. i 

" No. 2 

" potatoes No. i 

" No. 2 

" salmon . . 

" salt codfish 

" tomatoes . 

Scollops, to saut6 . . 

Scrambled eggs No. i 

•• No. 2 



130 

245 
129 
129 
245 
131 
132 

245 
133 
134 
134 
134 
134 
135 
244 
132 
132 
132 
132 
126 
131 
154 
146 
288 
288 
287 
287 

288 

289 

57 

57 

286 

286 

289 

287 

60 

152 
312 

312 



370 



Index. 



Scrapple 296 

" to saut6 . . . . 148 
Sea moss blanc-mange . . 228 

*' gruel 158 

Seasoning 263 

" for salad dress- 
ings No. I 282 

Seasoning for salad dress- 
ings No. 2 282 

Seasoning for salad dress- 
ings No. 3 282 

Seedless raisins, to stew . 99 
Serving and garnishing . 315 

Shells 161 

" tart 224 

Sherbet, lemon 260 

" mixed fruit . . . 260 

** orange 260 

" pine-apple . . . 261 

" strawberry . . . 260 

Shirred eggs No. i ... 312 

** " No. 2 . . . 312 

Shortcake, banana .... 203 

** orange .... 203 

" pine-apple . . 204 

" raspberry . . . 203 

" strawberry . . 203 

Shrimp croquettes .... 144 

" salad 276 

" sauce 132 

Shrimps, creamed .... 284 
Sick-room cookery ... 156 
Small puddings, to steam 83 

Smear-case 228 

Snow pudding 257 

Soft ginger cake 250 

Sorrel, pur^e of 125 

Souffle, cheese, No. i . . 302 
" " No. 2 . . 302 
" chicken 302 



Souffle, omelet 314 

" potato 302 

" pudding 233 

Soup, barley 113 

" brown. No. i . . . 117 

" No. 2 . . . 118 

" No. 3 . . . 118 

" clear 109 

" " with curry . . no 

** " with dainty 

dumplings no 

Soup, clear, with fancy 

vegetables no 

Soup, clear, with mixed 

flavoring no 

Soup, clear, with poached 

eggs no 

Soup, clear, with sliced 

lemon no 

Soup, clear, with tapioca . no 

" corn 113 

** green turtle . . . . 119 

" gumbo 118 

*' hominy 113 

** macaroni 113 

" mixed 115 

** mock turtle .... 118 

" noodle 114 

" okra, No. i . . . . 114 

" No. 2 ... . n4 

" No. 3 ... . ns 

" ox-tail 115 

" pea 113 

" plain 106 

"■ rice 113 

" salsify 113 

" tomato. No. i . . . 113 

" " No. 2 . . . 117 

** transparent tomato, 

No. I 117 



Index. 



371 



Soup, transparent tomato, 

No. 2 

Soup, vegetable, No. i 
No. 2 
No. 3 
No. 4 
Soup-bones, to prepare 
Soup-making . . . 
Spaghetti, creamed 
Spiced beef, to boil 
*' damsons . . 
" peaches . . 
Spinach, pur^e of . 
salad . . . 
to boil . . 
" to prepare 
" to select . 
Sponge cake . . . 
Squash pie .... 

" summer, to stew 
" to bake, No. i 
" " No. 2 
" to prepare . . 
" to saut4 . . . 
" to select . . 
*' to steam . . 
** winter, to stew 
Squirrel, to saut^ . . 
" to stew . . 
Steak, Hamburg . . 
" Salisbury . . 
to broil . . . 
" to prepare . . 
Steamed apple pudding 

No. I 

Steamed apple pudding 

No. 2 

Steamed batter pudding . 
" blackberry pud- 
ding 



. 117 

• 114 
. 114 
. 114 
. 114 

22 

. 100 

. 285 

. 70 

. 177 

. 177 

. 124 

• 275 

• 73 

• 25 
. 16 
. 248 
. 222 

• 94 
61 

. 61 

. 24 

. 147 

. 15 

. 82 

• 93 
. 152 

. 88 

. 151 

• 151 
36, 42 

• 23 



236 



236 
233 



237 



Steamed cherry pudding . 236 
" fruit pudding . . 236 
" huckleberry pud- 
ding 237 

Steamed pudding No. i . 235 

No. 2 . 235 

" No. 3 . 235 

" No. 4 . 235 

Steaming 81 

Stewed chicken with mush- 
rooms 86 

Stewed chicken with 

truffles 86 

Stewed giblets with mush- 
rooms 292 

Stewing 84 

Stock, asparagus .... 103 

beef 103 

celery 103 

chicken 104 

compound .... 104 

mixed, No. i . . . 104 

" No. 2 . . . 105 

mutton 103 

salsify 103 

simple vegetable . 102 

veal 103 

vegetable .... 102 
Strawberries, to can ... 164 
" to hull ... 29 

" to preserve, 

No. I 170 

Strawberries, to preserve, 

No. 2 171 

Strawberries, to preserve, 

No. 3 171 

Strawberry cream .... 258 

*' ice 261 

" ice cream . . 262 
** jam 172 



372 



Index. 



Strawberry jelly . . . 174, 255 
" pie No. I . . . 219 

** " No. 2 . . . 219 

** salad .... 270 

" sauce .... 245 

" sherbet . . . 260 

" shortcake . . 203 

Strawberryade 160 

Straws, cheese, No. i . . 304 

No. 2 . . 304 

String beans, to boil ... 72 

*' " to can ... 167 

** " to prepare . 25 

Strudels, apple 218 

Stuffing for fish 28 

" for poultry ... 27 

" for veal 27 

Suet pastry 216 

" pudding ...... 235 

Sugar, mace 245 

Sultana raisins, to stew . 99 

Sunshine cake 248 

Sweet potato pie 221 

Sweet potatoes, to bake . 59 
** " to boil . 73 
" " to saut6 . 149 
" ** to steam 82 
Sweetbread croquettes . 145 
*' fritters .... 142 
" patties .... 226 
" salad No. i . 278 
'* No. 2 . 278 
'* and mush- 
room pie 225 

12 
284 

38 
24 

55 
243 



Sweetbreads 



creamed . 
to broil . . 
to prepare 
to roast . . 



Syrup 



Tapioca, creamed .... 234 
** custard, baked . 232 
" pudding, baked 238 

Tart, apple 224 

" cranberry 224 

" shells 224 

Tartare sauce 133 

Tea, beef, No. i 108 

" No. 2 loS 

" to make black ... 79 
Ceylon. . . 79 
English 

breakfast 79 

Tea, to make green ... 79 
** " oolong . . 79 

" toast 158 

Terrapin, mock 295 

" veal 294 

Timbales 300 

" of potato .... 301 

" of rice 301 

To bake almonds .... 63 
apples No. i . . 62 
No. 2 . . 62 

bananas 63 

beans 62 

bread .... 48, 190 

cake 48 

corn No. i . . . 61 
" No. 2 . . . 61 

custards 64 

a fish 56 

a heart and liver . 55 

onions 61 

63 
58 
64 
61 
61 
59 



pears 

potatoes . . . 
rice pudding . . 
squash No. i . 
No. 2 . 
sweet potatoes 



Index. 



373 



To bake tomatoes . 
" tongue . . 

To boil asparagus . 
beets . . . 
cabbage . . 
carrots . . 
cauliflower 
a chicken . 
corn . . . 
corned beef 
an egg . . . 
a fish . . . 
a fowl . . . 
a ham . . . 
a leg of lamb 
macaroni 
mutton . , 
parsnips . . 
potatoes . , 
rice ... 



spiced beef 
spinach . . 
string beans 
sweet potatoes 
turkey . . , 
turnips . , 
vegetables 
To bone a fish . . . 
" a fowl . , 
* ' a leg of lamb 
pork 
veal 
' * a turkey . . . 
To braise a calf's heart 
" meats . 
" poultry . 
To broil chicken . . 



in t 



oven . . . 
To broil chops 



70: 



60 
56 
72 

73 
73 
73 
72 
68 
72 
70 

, 311 
69 

69 
69 
69 

72 
69 

73 
71 

74 
70 

73 
72 

73 
69 

73 
71 
22 

309 
309 
310 

309 

307 

90 

89 
89 
38 



44 
37 



39 
40 
38 
39 

43 
39 
39 
44 
45 
45 



To broil chops on a grid- 
dle 42 

To broil a fish 39 

" in the oven 45 

grouse 

ham 

liver 

oysters 

** on a grid- 
dle 

To broil prairie chicken . 

quail 

'* in the oven, 
a rabbit .... 
a squirrel .... 

steak 36 

" on a griddle 42 

sweetbreads . . 38 

tomatoes .... 40 

tripe 38 

To can asparagus .... 167 

cherries No. i . . 166 

No. 2 . . 166 

corn 167 

lima beans .... 167 

peaches 165 

pears 166 

peas 167 

pine-apples .... 165 

plums 166 

quinces 165 

strawberries ... 164 

string beans . . . 167 

tomatoes No. i . . 168 

No. 2. . 168 

No. 3. . 168 

To carve a joint 317 

" a roast 317 

" a turkey .... 316 

To cook cereals 75 



374 



Index. 



80. 



To cook coarse hominy 

" " oatmeal 

" cracked wheat 

" dried fruits . 

" farina . . . 

** fine hominy . 

" fresh fruits . 

" rolled barley 
oats . 
wheat 
To fricassee a chicken 
lamb . 

** mutton 

** veal . . 

To make black tea . 

" Ceylon tea 

" chocolate . 

" cider apple sauce 

" cocoa . . . 

'* " No. I 

'' No. 2 
*' No. 3 

" coffee No i 

No. 2 

" No. 3 

'' cranberry jelly . 

" English break- 
fast tea 

To make green tea .... 

" hygienic coffee . 

** koumiss .... 
To preserve cherries . . . 

" peaches . . . 

" pears .... 

" pine-apples . 

" plums . . . 

" quinces . . . 

" raspberries . 

" strawberries 



77 
77 
77 
97 
77 
77 
94 
77 
77 
77 
89 
89 
89 
89 
79 
79 
161 

97 

80 

161 

161 

161 

77 
78 
78 
96 

79 

79 

79 

80 

170 

168 

169 

169 

170 

169 

172 



No. I 170 



To 



To 



To 



To 



To 



preserve strawberries 

No. 2 171 

preserve strawberries 

No. 3 171 

roast beef 49 

" chicken 54 

" fresh pork ... 53 

" lamb 52 

" a leg of lamb or 

mutton 52 

roast mutton 51 

quails 55 

sweetbreads ... 55 

turkey 54 

veal 52 

wild duck .... 55 

saut^ apples 149 

bananas .... 150 

beefsteek . . . . 151 

breakfast bacon 148 

calf's brains . . 152 

calf's liver . . . 155 

chicken .... 151 

corn oysters . . 153 

egg-plant ... 147 

eggs 311 

fish 152 

fish cakes . . , 154 

grouse 152 

ham 148 

Hamburg steak 151 

hash 154 

hominy 153 

lamb chops . . . 150 

liver 155 

mush 148 

onions 147 

oysters 153 

parsnips .... 150 

pork chops . . . 151 



Index. 



375 



To saut^ potatoes .... 

" prairie chicken . 

quail 

rabbit 

*' Salisbury steak . 

" salsify 

" sausage .... 

" scollops .... 

" scrapple .... 

" soft-shell crabs . 

" squash 

" squirrel .... 

" sweet potatoes , 

" tomatoes .... 

" tough beefsteak 

" veal chops . . . 
To steam a batter pudding 

" clams 

" corn 

eggs 

fish 

" oysters .... 

" potatoes .... 

" rice 

'* a roly-poly . . . 

" small puddings 

" squash .... 

" sweet potatoes . 

To stew apples 

" asparagus peas . 

'• beef 

" beets 

" cabbage .... 

" carrots 

** celery 

** chicken 

** corn 

" cranberries No. i 
" •• No. 2 

*' cucumbers . . . 



149 
152 
152 
152 
151 
150 
154 
152 
148 

152 
147 

152 

149 
148 

151 
150 

83 
82 

83 
83 
81 
81 
82 
82 
83 
83 
82 
82 

95 
92 
86 
90 
92 

91 
92 

84 

91 
96 
96 
91 



To stew dried apples 
" " apricots 



99 
98 

91 
99 
99 
99 
99 
96 
90 
88 
91 



" beans . . 

" peaches , 

" plums . . 

" prunellas 

** prunes . 
green gooseberries 
" shelled beans 

Iamb 

mushrooms . . . 

mutton 87 

okra 92 

onions 92 

oysters 284 

parsnips .... 93 

peaches 97 

pears 96 

peas 93 

pie-plant .... 96 

plums 97 

potatoes .... 93 

rabbit 88 

raisins 99 

salsify 92 

squirrel 88 

99 
94 

93 
86 
90 
93 
309 
310 

309 
307 



*' sultana raisins 
" summer squash 
" tomatoes . . , 

" veal 

" vegetables . . 

" winter squash . 

To stuff a leg of lamb . 

" *' pork . 

" '* veal . 

** a turkey . . . 

To toast bread 40 

Toast, beefsteak 162 

" broth 162 

" creamed 285 



376 



Index. 



Toast, curried ...... 286 

" dipped 286 

" French 304 

" fruit 162 

" oyster 162 

*' tea 158 

" tropical 305 



Tomato, 


bisque of ... . 


120 


(( 


pur^e of, No, i . 


122 


(( 


" No. 2 . 


122 


<( 


" No. 3 . 


122 


(( 


salad No. i . . 


273 


<( 


•' No. 2 . . 


274 


<( 


sauce No. i . . 


134 


(( 


N0.2 . . 


134 


(( 


" N0.3. . 


134 


(( 


No. 4. . 


134 


<( 


'' No. 5. . 


135 


(( 


soup No. I. . . 


113 


<( 


*' No. 2 . . 


117 


(( 


'* transpar- 




ent. 


No. I 


117 


Tomato 


soup, transparent. 




No. 


2 


117 


Tomato and fish salad . . 


279 


Tomatoes, to bake .... 


60 


(( 


to broil .... 


40 


(( 


to can, No. i . 


168 


(( 


No. 2 . 


168 


(( 


No. 3 . 


168 


<< 


to prepare . . 


26 


(( 


to saut6 . . . 


148 


(< 


to scallop . . . 


60 


(< 


to select . . . 


16 


<( 


to stew .... 


93 


Tongue 


to bake a . . . . 


56 


(( 


to prepare a dried 


23 


Transparent liquid sauce . 


244 


(( 


tomato soup 




No, 


I 


117 



Transparent tomato soup 

No. 2 117 

Tripe, to broil 38 

Tropical toast 305 

Truffles, stewed chicken 

with 86 

Turbans, fish 299 

Turkey hash 293 

roast 53 

" to boil a 69 

" to bone a .... 307 

" to carve a . . . . 316 

" to roast a . . . . 54 

" and oyster hash. . 293 

Turnips, pur6e of . . . . 124 

" to boil 73 

" to prepare .... 24 

" to select 15 

Vanilla cream pie .... 223 

Veal broth 109 

chops, fried .... 146 

cream of 117 

croquettes 145 

hash 294 

pressed 306 

stuffing for 27 

terrapin 294 

to bone a leg of . . . 309 

to fricassee 89 

to roast 52 

to saut^ 150 

to select 12 

to stew 86 

Vegetable soup No. i . . 114 

" No. 2 . . 114 

" No. 3 . . 114 

** No. 4 . . 114 

'* " stock . . 102 

'* soups in 



Index. 



377 



Vegetables, fancy . . . . iii 

" macedoine . . iii 

*' to boil .... 71 

" to select ... 15 

" to stew ... 90 

Vermicelli, creamed . . . 285 

Vienna bread. . . . 189, 191 

Vol-au-vents .... 215, 284 

Wafers, ginger 250 

Waffles No. i 201 

" No. 2 201 

" No. 3 201 

Water, hard 66 

soft 66 

Welsh rarebit No. i . . . 303 

No. 2 . . . 303 

" No. 3 . . . 304 

Wetting 179 

Wheat griddle cakes No. i 199 
Wheat griddle cakes No. 2 199 
Wheat griddle cakes No. 3 199 



Wheat muffins No. i 
No. 2 
No. 3 

Whey 

Whipped cream . . . 

Whips, ^zz 

'* " with syrup 

White flour gruel. . . 

" sauce No. i . . 

'' No. 2. . 

" No. 3.. 

*' No. 4.. 

" sauces 

" soups .... 
Whole wheat flour bread 
" gruel 
Wild duck, to roast. . . 
Winter squash, to stew . 

Yeast, compressed . . . 
'* liquid 



198 
198 
198 

228 
241 

159 
160 

157 
132 
132 
132 
132 
131 
115 
205 

158 
55 
93 

186 
192 
proper quantity of . 191 



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